Cdfarabaugh

Juice brakes would about be a deal breaker for me. Also is it a straight 6 speed or a 6 plus (7 speed). Some straight sixes seem to have too steep of a 1st sometimes to get out of a soft spot. A 6 plus has a pretty low unsynchronized 1st that works good. Usually the high hole is OD so it will scoot good empty. Engine is good. See how good it starts cold, if it starts hard then misses chances are the injector solenoids are gunked up and will need replaced. I'd check the coolant too, dip a sample and see if SCA's are up. If not you may have antifreeze in the oil in the near future. If the doors are going bad I'd take a good look under the cab and see how bad it is. I'll guarantee you won't get it cheap enough to be worth fixing or replacing the cab eventually

I read how bad the housing epidemic is in Canada......dear lord! How did it get so bad?

I have 2 of their other seal installers, they're good quality.

I actually work on mostly green stuff anymore. Unfortunately I'm not a computer and would need to look at a schematic to point you in the right direction. I envy guys who can memorize that stuff

Pays to read the operators manual, any bobcat with pilot or electronic controls has an emergency boom release pull knob to lower it. Tees right into the cylinder up line and dumps to sump

No sir, parent bore engine, needs bored for a press in service sleeve. Still some stuff out there, gotta look a bit harder than more common engines. Ferd/NH stuff using variants of those engines is keeping them alive parts wise

Be patient and one will show up. Even though they're getting pretty old, there's tons of them out there. The one I'm fixing up in another post is a "southern belle" and needs help BUT it doesn't have a speck of rust. I'll fix wiring all day long before a crusty stuff.

Honestly I think running a roadranger is no harder than a 2 speed, every 2 speed I've drove they can be finicky. Definitely easier than a brownie box. But your right so many had juice brakes and no air supply (which is dumb to me). Air is so superior in every way to those pos hydravac drum setups. My service truck has a "6 plus" with OD in the high hole and while I guess it's drivable the synchros in it suck with it being tempermental. If I ever find a donor it's getting a 9 speed.

Never understood the love affair with 2 speed rears back in the day. Should just have had the small road ranger 9/10 speeds in them. To this day I'm not trusting of 2 speed rears since I had a motor go out and the actuator get stuck between lo and hi and end up sitting.

Best part about a heui engine is almost impossible to burn one up from no oil. Without oil pressure they use up what's in the starting reservoir in about 10 seconds and promptly die 😉

In the grand scheme electronics that are much more primitive and simpler to deal with than modern stuff. Honestly the only common things that stops those E engines (short of stuff that would affect a mechanical engine too) is cam sensor, low ICP pressure, or low ECM voltage. All these mechanical fuel injection components are getting salty too. I'll bet that big Bosch inline is tickling 3 grand after a full extortion by a fuel shop.

In 04 they switched to 24 valve heads, 2nd generation Siemens HEUI injectors, different HEUI pump and VGT turbo with EGR. I guess the bare block would still have some similiarities Nah, that stuff is easily available and reasonable for air brakes. Just bought a bunch of stuff for a '92. Juice brakes yes, probably a little harder.

Funny thing is what do you think controls the transmission and hitch in said MX tractor?

How come I don't come across stuff like that! Fuel pinchers suck, but better than feeding a 427 I'd put a receiver on them and put them to work with a trailer behind them.

Those saying they're junk and complaining about electrical issues must be driving around 40 year old cars trucks and tractors then...... The electronics on these engines is about as simple as they come compared to a lot of stuff that vintage or newer! Best medium duty engine on the market during that time......period. Wet sleeve, robust overbuilt design and easy to work on. Parts are plentiful and reasonable with aftermarket support. Most common issues are injectors stiction due to not following oil change intervals, electrical issues (a lot of which can be traced to inadequate clean 12v power and ground feeds.....those HEUI injectors take a lot of power to click off) cam sensor failure resulting on no start/intermittent stalling, camshaft lifter doggone failure wiping cam out, injector o ring failure putting oil in fuel and an occasional high pressure oil pump failure or leaking. As @dale560said ServiceMaster 1708 is free and just need a com adapter to communicate to pull faults/data/or do bi directional tests. I would avoid the 97-98 "3 box" control system. They have an ECM, an IDM (injector driver module like 7.3 powerstrokes) and a personality module which sets the torque and HP all separate. They're sort of oddball only being used a short time therefore not well supported. After mid 98 or earluly 99 they went to the "1 box" or DLC system which has the more common large ECM mounted on the left side of the engine that does it all. Lots of HP ratings from 175 to I think 275 hp. 230 is about as hot as they get without recommended hard parts upgrades (injectors, steel crown pistons and turbo) You can buy different rated ECU's and there are tuners available to wake them up. I'd gladly take these over ANY piece of crap that's on the market today (which unfortunately the 6.7 cummins is about the only medium duty engine left) Once you get to '04 emissions 466's it's a different animal, but still not too awful bad. You can guess what happens after 2007 😞 Phew......I typed a book my apologies