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Posted
11 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Head of ball is 1 3/4

idk if they make a taper pin ball or not, don’t think so

No tapered ball pin  that I have seen 

that is just for the steering anchor far as I know 

Posted
4 hours ago, HydroTek said:

Shank is straight

Yeah hand grinding is difficult , but can be done with the axle still assembled -- scared of a little craftsman work ? 

-- center part has to be stripped down
-- machine shop sill welds the hole
-- then gets the axle into a Mill and cuts the weld back out to round 

I've hand fitted many parts.

I watched a friend fix a NLA 540 PTO  shaft. It was worn round and small.

He welded it up a tad oversized. Chucked it up in the lathe and turned it to the OD of the outside of a 540 shaft.

Then he marked the 540 splines using a sharpie and a few tools (straight edge, etc). He mostly used an angle grinder to cut the splines free hand. Occasionally he would use a die grinder. Checking his work often with a 540 yoke as a guage. Wending  up spots as needed. He finally had it just right. It was tight enough on the shaft but slid on and off. 

Then he chuckled it up in the lathe again and cut the retention grove.

  • Like 1
Posted

Good evening again, so I said last night blew all the dirt out, then like it was suggested keep soaking it with your favorite, so was just moving it around to the back of the shop  figuring this side was going to just as bad, did heat it a lot last night before calling it a night, so a miracle happened when moving it I had all the bolts and pin out, for the heck of it bumped the tire up against the silo and it moved a quite a bit, so with rain coming tomorrow guess I will be doing that side, was planning on doing this all during winter maybe will have ot buy another project, I still have the 312 engine that someday would like to put in a 656,

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, HydroTek said:

No tapered ball pin  that I have seen 

that is just for the steering anchor far as I know 

And that taper pin on the steering cylinder modification, now that I’ve done it, that’s a darn good fix.

I was fortunate enough to have borrowed a new (nice and sharp) reamer that cut the hole in literally about two minutes. 

Posted

Amazon has one for 28 bucks 

be good enough for a couple of holes

You need to measure and determine what the taper is on the pin 
lathe and a dial indicator would be my choice
but you can measure and check a chart 

 

Posted

Morse taper #2 looks possibly -- common tooling 

Large Diameter , Distance , small Diameter and check the machinist taper chart will tell for sure 

cant use the numbers you posted , unless the length of the taper is known between the diameters 
that 7.75 may be over all length 
I dont see the taper per inch from your numbers anywhere on the charts

Couple of reference links
https://littlemachineshop.com/pages/dimensions-of-standard-tapers
https://www.omnicalculator.com/construction/taper

Posted

I could use the info. I have two to do.

Can you write up a good description ou make a short video?

It would be very handy to have this as a reference.

Posted

Need two floor jacks, remove left side tire, lower it toward ground, and Jack the right side up 6-8”, or drive it up on a 6x6 first.  This tilts the axle down to the left and gives you room between the frame rail and the hole, to fit the reamer and wrench. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Then you put a ratchet on the reamer and a helper puts a bar between frame rail and your ratchet, to apply downward force to keep the reamer reaming.  Given, I’ve only done it once, and helped do another one once, but each time it was a Very simple task.  I used cutting oil and large chips just rolled out the bottom.  
 

I used 3/4 drive ratchet just so it was something substantial for the pry bar to push down against.  And by bar….I meant 4-5’  length of 2x4 that happened to be the first thing within reach.

 

I’ve heard people say they used a drill or impact to turn the reamer but the one I borrowed said “No power tools” right on it.  It cut so fast I stopped three or four times to test fit the pin thinking I could go to far, but then I realized the tool had a flat at the end of the flutes that was going to align with the top of the casting, indicating the correct depth. I was working on a tractor with minimal wear on that hole to begin with and a pretty tight front end otherwise. I didn’t really think the tighter pin would improve much, but it did. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, acem said:

What are the specifications for the Tapered Reamer?

I didn't understand the previous description.

We were discussing that earlier -- need a taper pin and calipers/mics to get the taper figured out 

There are several "standard" tapers in that chart I linked 
the reamer is not expensive , but do need the correct taper 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

The one I borrowed had the $200 tag still on the box, from the vendor. I’m not a machinist….I thought I did good saving those numbers off of it. I’ll see that guy again in a month or so, I’ll see if it’s still in the box maybe with more information on the packaging 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Actual dimensions off the taper would be nice

Pick a spot to measure the od
then move 1" and measure again
consult that chart I linked 

the M-2 sounds like a Morse number 2 taper 
but your numbers do not work out 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, stronger800 said:

I didn’t make them up though, I’d attach pic of the tool if pics worked

I know you are accurate in the numbers -- was not implying that at all 

just getting at the numbers are not on the standard taper chart
-- need to measure a pin or the reamer to figure if that is a standard taper or something from an engineers nightmare 
-- we had the OTC reamer at the shop , but I am not there now so no way to measure 

  • Like 1
Posted

We could measure a new tapered pin (the end piece that goes in) and determine the taper. 

I've read somewhere it's a standard size for ball joints or something similar.

Wish I could remember...

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