buckeyefarmer89 Posted June 6 Posted June 6 The alternator went out of my 5288 Wednesday while finishing up planting soybeans. No big deal. I put the new alternator on with 2 new batteries. Starts right up. And charges. But I’ve got no radio or fan. Cab solenoid. Run up to the shop and get some things. Come back and everything works! Weird. But I didn’t have any odd gears then. Sentry light was on. So I finished up in an even gear. Took it up to the shop and I was going to switch around the relays on the sentry box to see if the problem follows the relay. Blow a fuse. Wouldn’t move in any gear, the sentry light wouldn’t even come on. Installed two new relays and it all functions like it should. Sure hope I don’t have problems down the road. Quote
HydroTek Posted June 6 Posted June 6 Sentry power was from a small wire on the Left battery -- may need to look there for corrosion Quote
mrfred54 Posted June 7 Posted June 7 16 hours ago, HydroTek said: Sentry power was from a small wire on the Left battery -- may need to look there for corrosion Supposed to come from that battery. I’ve seen the sentry power come from all different sources. Once had a 5088 getting it power from the light switch terminal and kept blowing fuse Quote
snoshoe Posted June 7 Posted June 7 3 hours ago, mrfred54 said: Supposed to come from that battery. I’ve seen the sentry power come from all different sources. Once had a 5088 getting it power from the light switch terminal and kept blowing fuse Those were all supposed to be reworked years ago. Power is supposed to come from the junction block in the little door with the sentry and fuse block. You can open the harness in there and find 3 red with black tracer wires in there. One is a larger gauge. That is the one you want. You can pull out enough wire and snip to reach that junction block with just a new terminal installed. 2 Quote
cobfly Posted June 7 Posted June 7 While you're at it, adjust the plunger under the clutch pedal just to rule it out. Quote
snoshoe Posted June 7 Posted June 7 5 hours ago, snoshoe said: Those were all supposed to be reworked years ago. Power is supposed to come from the junction block in the little door with the sentry and fuse block. You can open the harness in there and find 3 red with black tracer wires in there. One is a larger gauge. That is the one you want. You can pull out enough wire and snip to reach that junction block with just a new terminal installed. After I posted this. I remembered there are three wiring diagrams for this. As I'm running 2 hrs. Behind today. Maybe I can find them later and post. They are earlier serial and earlier after rework and late serial number. Quote
mrfred54 Posted June 7 Posted June 7 Heck, these tractors are at least 40 years old and I’m still finding the sentry hooked to the battery and other sources so apparently it really don’t matter where the 12 volt come from and I’ve seen some without a fuse panel and wiring all scrambled up and there still earning a living. Yes, snowshoe, your right, and I believe there a 3 different wiring diagrams in my book Quote
HydroTek Posted June 8 Posted June 8 The diagrams mostly are for the different pedal safety switch versions IH added a resistor to the back of the switch and hot melt glued the boot on -- I should have a couple laying around here , somewhere Quote
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