MAXXFORCE DT Woes

[Binderdan]

Some of you may have seen my threads on the construction section and know that I tend to buy big toys and rehab them. My poor F350 and 7.3 have done their fair share and then some of hauling and is finally over 355K miles, but holding up ok. A replacement truck has been on my mind but a 2015 and newer F350 dually that meets my needs is usually $50K+. Crazy money! So I started looking at other options and found beverage tractors!

Pepsi, Coke, Budweiser, etc use medium duty single axle tractors to pull their product from distribution center to gas station to grocery store all over the country. These trucks commonly International and have a DT466E, DT530, or DT570 engine and either a 10 speed Fuller, or Allison auto, and air suspension. These trucks sell very cheap at auction especially when inoperable. I started watching for a local one and found four being sold in Albuquerque, NM 

Meet my new used gooseneck trailer hauler! A 2009 International 4400 DuraStar with a MAXXFORCE DT, Allison 3000HS, 4:88 gears, and 30K GVW. Formerly a 7Up truck for Dr Pepper Snapple Group in Albuquerque, NM it was sold at auction along with 3 other similar units all sold as "Inoperable". For those that don't know "Inoperable" on a Ritchie Bros(or affiliates) auction can mean a dead battery, or a hole in the side of the engine, all you have to go by is photos and the "inspection" done by someone who generally knows very little about what they are doing. 

I won this gem for under $1,500 out the door including fees and buyers premium, so the rear air suspension alone was worth more than I paid. I was working out of town so my friend took my gooseneck trailer and picked it up for me with his GMC 3500HD with 8.1 gas. I had told him it may start with a jump but all was uncertain. He didn't have any luck starting it to load it so he had brought an air compressor to fill the truck's air tanks to release the brakes and have control while winching onto the trailer. 

Once I got home the troubleshooting began. But for those that don't know I want to clarify the MAXXFORCE series of engines a bit. 

MAXXFORCE 5: The MAXXFORCE 5 is a V6 diesel engine based on the VT365 (AKA 6.0 Power Stroke) and MAXXFORCE 7 (AKA 6.4 Power Stroke) and is a complete pile of garbage. From head problems to EGR cooler problems and more, it is a boat anchor...

MAXXFORCE 7: The MAXXFORCE 7 is a V8 and is better known as the 6.4 Power Stroke used in Ford trucks. Its like Navistar made the 6.0 Power Stroke and someone asked "Can you possibly make a worse engine?" and Navistar said "Hold my beer!". Seriously though they had good power but were doomed from the beginning, and unlike a VT365 (6.0 Power Stroke) the MAXXFORCE 7 (6.4 Power Stroke) could not be modified to correct all of its flaws. But this engine is worthy of its own discussion. 

MAXXFORCE DT: The MAXXFORCE DT, an inline 6 and was the previous 2005-2006 24 valve DT466E that already had an EGR system, and EGR coolers but in 2007 (one year before the MAXXFORCE name) a DPF (diesel Particulate Filter) was added. While the engine itself was just as robust as before, the new DPF along with the already dirty EGR system made a legendary engine into a black eye for the company. Reliability problems and costly repairs to the emissions system did not fair well with customers. 

MAXXFORCE 9 & 10: The MAXXFORCE 9 and 10 are inline 6 engines, what used to be the DT570 from 2005 to 2007 but with the addition of DPF. The DT570 and MAXXFORCE 9 and 10 are nearly identical to the DT466E (2005+ emissions), and MAXXFORCE DT (2007 Emissions) but with a longer stroke for more torque. So information and troubleshooting are similar. The only difference between a MAXXFORCE 9 and a MAXXFORCE 10 is power settings/ratings.

MAXXFORCE Big Bore (11, 13, 15): These are heavy truck engines that use heavy EGR and DPF, but no DEF (diesel exhaust fluid) like the other MAXXFORCE series. I do not know enough about them to speak intelligently on them. 

The other confusing part on the MAXXFORCE series is that there are different variant of each depending on "Emissions year". So a MAXXFORCE DT with 2007 emissions is very different externally from one with 2010, or 2013 emissions. And troubleshooting becomes very challenging. Also Navistar offers Servicemaxx J1708 for free, this is the electronic diagnostic software for Navistar engine up to the MAXXFORCE series. To diagnose the MAXXFORCE series you need Servicemaxx J1939 (discontinued) which covers all MAXXFORCE engines (no Cummins), or the new NED (Navistar Electronic Diagnostics) which covers MAXXFORCE series as well as Cummins but is $$$$!

For this thread I will be discussing my truck which is a MAXXFORCE DT with 2007 emissions. So this information and photos will apply to all 2007 emissions MAXXFORCE DT, 9 and 10. 

[Binderdan]

I had hoped for something simple keeping my MAXXFORCE DT from running but I had minimal history on this truck. Fuel lift pressure was good, lubricating oil pressure was good, high pressure oil pressure was good while cranking, and no diagnostic trouble codes or check engine lights. 

I was told by an employee that it had new EGR coolers installed a couple years back and was parked not long after. The EGR coolers are a common fail point on the MAXXFORCE engines as well as all other emissions diesels. The MAXXFORCE DT, 9, and 10 with 07 emissions like mine, as well as the 05 emissions DT466E and DT570 use two EGR coolers, a hot side and a cold side. Engine coolant flows through them both to cool the recirculated EGR gasses before being fed back into the intake. Like breathing its own farts. With heat cycles it is common for the EGR coolers to crack allowing engine coolant into the recirculated exhaust gasses being ingested causing the inside of the engines cylinders to be sort of steam cleaned of lubrication causing major premature wear. Also exhaust gasses can leak into the engine coolant making the coolant bottle look black and gross. 

My coolant and bottle were very clean, almost like recently changed. I suspect what happened was an EGR cooler failed and coolant washed out the cylinders causing extreme wear and started burning oil bad and possibly damaging the DPF. The mechanics must have fixed the cause (failed EGR coolers) but did not fix the damaged cause by the failure.  The only way to know was to pull the head and look. Before I did that I noticed the exhaust was completely plugged. When I removed the downpipe from the turbo I was getting fuel rich exhaust out the turbo, but nothing out the tailpipe before. I also noticed the turbo which was marked ReNewed (Navistar rebuilt) did not spin freely. 

I went as far as to try some light ether during cranking to see what happened. It would only lightly hit occasionally on one cylinder. Leading me to believe the compression was so low that it would barely ignite the ether. 

Guess its time to pull the head for deeper investigation...

[acem]

Could you just drop a mechanical DT466 or DT360 in its place???

May need a doghouse.

7.3 might be an easier fit.

I have heard nothing good about the 6.0 and 6 4 engines.

[mmi]

Been waiting for this thread to move over and gain traction.

Here "beer" trucks are all useless drop frame /then wrong length/configuration.

<'96- 4xxx are swiss cheese or none existent  along with 99% NLA parts + swap knowledge.

As is a mechanical 466,which is going to be major PITH swap into a full govt bs computer cab-  IF it passed 12-25 "enhanced" inspection.

Anyhow nice '06 local  full air /Dt ,20'   ."as is"  they refuse to give repair list or "fault" print out........hard pass

[Binderdan]

As with many of my novels I write on here I am actually much further in the project, I just haven't written everything yet. Mostly I'm putting this information and photos out to help the next guy. Most of the information on Red Power is for older stuff, but it will be nice to get some content on the newer trucks too. 

I actually like the 6.0 as they can be made into a very good engine, although not always cost effective unless its a very nice truck. 

The regular beer trucks do have a pretty useless chassis, although can be good parts trucks. Out west they have beverage trailers with the roll up doors and pull them with these short wheelbase tractors. I really like the maneuverability of the short wheelbase, its actually slightly shorter than my F-350 as I recall. 

 

[Dirt_Floor_Poor]

We have had a 6.0 Powerstroke for a long time. I would take a new one of those over anything that is currently being produced. I thought the problems with them were terrible compared to our previous 7.3 engines, but it’s nothing compared to the non sense and unworkable designs on the market right now. 

[jeeper61]

I heard some times when the cooler failed it hydro locked a cylinder or two and caused some bad damage  

[acem]

All these emissions diesel engines seem like so much trouble to me.

I'm a big fan of mechanical diesels.

Old IH diesels in my equipment. 12V 5.9 Cummins in my pickups. They are so reliable and repairable.

[Binderdan]

Yea, the 6.0 was the last of the decent ones, although got a bad rap. 

I could see a badly ruptured EGR cooler failure causing a hydrolocked cylinder.

Got the turbo removed and although it spins, it doesn't spin freely or smooth. The VGT actuator does move properly through its range of motion. I took the turbo apart and found it full of soot! So much soot that it was causing the turbine side to drag on the soot buildup. I disassembled the turbo and cleaned it thoroughly, to include the VGT vanes and actuator ring. After this cleaning the turbo spun freely and smooth again. Whew! That saves me $1,800! 

I removed the exhaust down pipe, DOC (Diesel Oxidation Catalyst) unit, DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter), and Diffuser. In hindsight I should have just released the two clamps and dropped the DPF out instead of dropping the whole thing. I wouldn't have had to remove all the sensors which got damage during removal and were not cheap to replace. The exhaust consists of three temperature sensors, and a differential pressure sensor. One temp sensor before the DOC, one after the DOC, and one after the DPF. The pressure differential sensor measures the pressure before the DPF and after the DPF to tell the computer how plugged the DPF is to determine regen need, or if the DPF had been altered. As I learned in this project all sensors must be in place and working properly to avoid engine emissions codes and derates.  

The DPF on mine was COMPLETELY plugged! I took it to Albuquerque to be cleaned. There is two processes to clean exhaust filters. One is the common method of baking in a kiln which burns off the soot inside the filter to clean it, then the filter is blown out in reverse with compressed air. The other method is less common and uses a special chemical to flush out the filter with a liquid after blowing it out with compressed air in reverse, then baking in a kiln. However! If there is suspicion of oil or coolant contamination in the exhaust filters the filter must not be baked as it will catch fire and damage the expensive kiln. I suspected oil contamination but upon further inspection we determined that mine was not contaminated, just badly plugged with soot. If mine had been contaminated it could still be cleaned but requires extensive flushing first costing $1,200+.  A new DPF was almost $7,000!! and a new DOC was about $3,500 so cleaning for about $700 seemed like a bargain! Something to note, for a filter to be cleanable the outlet side should still be white in color, if not the filter is likely damage and bypassing and needs to be replaced.

At this point some of you are saying "Just delete it!" which seems like a reasonable idea, and we will discuss that later in this thread. 

I continued to prepare the cylinder head for removal, removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, cooling fan, valve cover, high pressure oil rail, rocker shaft and bridges, and injectors. 

Up until this point everything looked pretty good except the amount of soot in not only the exhaust but the intake manifold and EGR tubes. 

Finally after removing the 26 head bolts it was time to lift the head off! Thankfully my new used service truck crane made easy work of this. 

Originally I had planned on reinstalling the head as is, but after saving money not having to get a new turbo, and being able to clean the DPF I decided to at least have the head checked at a machine shop.

[acem]

Are you subject to emissions testing?

 

[Binderdan]

I had picked up a set of four aluminum 22.5 Alcoa wheels for the 4400. Because, you know, priorities... Lol! And chrome center caps and lug covers from Amazon.

I am not subject to emissions testing where I live. Bernallio County is the only New Mexico area subject to testing and I avoid that area.

After removing the cylinder head I had expected to see heavy wear on the cylinder walls. When I looked in the cylinders I saw a heavy ridge at the top of the cylinder, but not of wear, of soot! Heavy soot! The cylinder walls were slightly stained and discolored but not worn at all, in fact the honing crosshatch marks still very visible. But how without wear would I be low on compression? Maybe the rings were extremely worn but the cylinder walls were a harder material? Guess I need to dig deeper. I did notice cylinder #5 had an interesting pattern in the soot, I assume this was the cylinder that was trying to fire on ether and left an injector spray pattern. 

The machine shop called and said the valve guides were pretty worn and the head needed milled a bit. They estimated $1,700 for all new valve guides and valves and the machine work. With 24 valves the costs add up faster on head work! I said to go for it.

I decided that an in-frame rebuild was needed to correct the compression. With so many variations in these engines I called my local International Truck dealer, Border international in Las Cruces, NM and gave them my VIN and engine serial number to ensure I was getting the right kit. Thankfully Border is good about understanding that OEM parts aren't always in everyone's budget and they are willing to share part numbers. An OEM in-frame kit was $7,700!!!! But they suggested an aftermarket kit by PAI and gave me a part number. After some internet research I determined the PAI kits are USA made and seem to be pretty good quality, and the price the dealer gave me was quite competitive at about $2,500. 

I have read that there is an issue involving the lifters that isn't uncommon on these engines. There is a fork (#2) between every two lifters that hold the roller lifters from rotating, this fork can break allowing the lifter to rotate and damage the camshaft. It is recommended that if ever the head is removed that the forks be doubled up on the lifters in case one fork breaks the lifter still can't turn. I had planned to order an extra set of the forks to install when I reassembled. But when I removed the lifters the forks were already doubled up! Meaning someone had already been in this engine at only 245K miles! It also means I don't have to order them!

The EGR coolers looked to be in good condition however they were partially clogged with soot. I called a guy who is a mechanic at a International Truck dealer and asked how to clean EGR coolers, he replied "you don't, you replace them". But at the price I'm not interested in replacing them. The OEM ones are about $700 or more each, aftermarket I hear are poor quality but about $500. The Bulletproof Diesel EGR coolers are vastly improved design but $2,800 for the pair. I had read online that Purple Power degreaser does a great job of breaking up soot so I bought a 5 gallon bucket and soaked the sooty parts in the bucket overnight. It worked surprisingly well. The EGR coolers took many soakings and flushings with water, but I was able to get the hot side cooler pretty clean. The cold side cooler however took a lot more soaking and flushing. Even then I wasn't able to get it nearly as clean as I wanted, but it flowed enough to keep the emissions lights off. With the possibility of deleting I didn't want to waste money on new coolers.

[mmi]

11 hours ago, acem said:

Old IH diesels in my equipment. 12V 5.9 Cummins in my pickups. They are so reliable and repairable.

Except parts are $$$$$ ,NLA or illegal ,NOT lack of sales per saye 

[Binderdan]

While waiting on the in-frame kit and the cylinder head at the machine shop I took the time to clean up the block deck surface, and drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan. I was annoyed that the pan did not fit out from under the truck without lifting the truck frame with a jack to give a inch or more additional room between the axle and front engine mount crossmember. 

In the meantime I also removed the oil vapor separator to inspect and clean it. It is recommended to replace it but they run about $700 and I wanted to try cleaning it first. I took it apart and it is a bunch of thin cones stacked together with an impeller on the bottom that makes it spin. Using centrifugal force to fling the oil to the outside and drain back into the crankcase rather than dump oil overboard like older trucks did. I cleaned it and it seemed to work ok for reuse. 

A few days later the cylinder head could be picked up from the machine shop! They did a nice job cleaning it and the valve job looked nice as well as the new surface. Its a heavy thing so I'm glad I have the IH 4500B forklift to help. 

Later that same day I got a call from Border International telling me my PAI in-frame kit had arrived!

It was a very nice kit and seemed to be excellent quality parts. The kit included 6 liner and piston kits, 6 rod bearing sets, 7 main bearing sets, 26 head bolts, oil filter, fuel filter, head gasket set, oil pan gasket, a tube of silicone,  EGR gaskets and seals and bolts, and a PAI banner!

Unfortunately after reading through the procedures in the service manual I noticed something odd. The head bolts were torque to yield. This was common on automobiles but the first time I had heard of this on a larger commercial engine. Not a big deal as the in-frame kit included all 26 new head bolts. However, the manual also stated the rod bolts, and the main bolts were also torque to yield bolts and not to reuse the old ones! These were not included in the kit. You may have seen my earlier post in the Technical Talk section about this dilemma. I ended up ordering the rod bolts separately from PAI at about $10 each. But the main bolts were only available from Navistar from the main hub in Chicago at about $50 each!. This seemed really odd for something required to be replaced every time not to be as readily available as the kits or other components involved. I decided to reuse the main bolts. 

[mmi]

8 hours ago, Binderdan said:

I ended up ordering the rod bolts separately from PAI at about $10 each. But the main bolts were only available from Navistar from the main hub in Chicago at about $50 each!. This seemed really odd for something required to be replaced every time not to be as readily available as the kits or other components involved. I decided to reuse the main bolts. 

Govt forced intentional NLA as in  NEW every two. France just passed a law on this......HAs no teeth   ...in USA NEVER.

You know vw/ fiat is not paying more than $1 ea ,and conspiracy/collusion carrot to not be aftermarket.

Thought that was a nice kit for $2500 ,but comes up short  $1500 +- of being "complete"

Adding your time labor running around etc etc. Keep in mind the advice from  2010, ANY of these trucks need a $20K deduct from the  $6K value  with no codes  and -$28K + iF "as is"

[Powered by IH]

On 3/30/2026 at 12:31 PM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

I thought the problems with them were terrible compared to our previous 7.3 engines, but it’s nothing compared to 

the 6.4.

There, finished it for ya! 😆

[Binderdan]

Got the DPF back from the cleaning place in Albuquerque. They gave me new gaskets for it and total cost for cleaning was about $850, still cheaper than new. They mentioned that it was starting to bypass, so at some point I either will need a new one or need to delete this truck.  

I started on the in-frame rebuild. First ting was to remove the rod caps and push the pistons and rods out the top of the cylinders. This was easier said than done! The soot ridge at the top of the cylinder walls was so bad I destroyed a few wooden dowels trying to drive the pistons out from below. I ended up taking scotchbrite to the rest of the cylinder ridges to avoid this problem... So I thought... Once I finally got piston #1 out I saw that there was so much soot buildup that the piston rings were completely stuck in soot. The couldn't compress to pass by the soot ridge, not could they expand to conform to the cylinder wall to build compression! This engine wasn't worn out but had choked to death on its own EGR. All the other cylinders were just as bad, if not worse, it took hours to get all six pistons driven out. Once cylinder liner actually came out with the piston! Whomever had rebuilt it before used OEM parts. 

Something that caught me by surprise was the connecting rod cap wasn't a clean machined cut. It is a rough and jagged controlled break to separate the rod from the cap when new. I am told they use ultrasonic waves to weaken and break it in a specific location. Kinda neat, makes each one unique. 

After cleaning everything I put the new O-rings on the liners and lubricated them with clean engine oil (per the manual) and dropped them into the engine block. The went in easily except the last little bit. Once I ensured it wasn't the O-ring holding it up I determined the liners have to be drawn in the last little bit, as you can see in the photos. I used the old head bolts and some nuts and washers purchased locally to draw the liners in evenly. Once all were down all the way and snugly held down I used a liner protrusion gauge to check to make sure they were all even and within spec. I used some cardboard under each washer to ensure the washer didn't mar the sealing surface for the head gasket. 

 

Once the liners were all installed I cleaned  up the connecting rods and inspected the wrist pin bushings. All were in good condition and within spec. So I went on to install the new piston rings on the pistons and pistons onto the rods, and new rod bearings. I was still waiting on rod bolts but I planned to install the old ones finger tight, and swap them out when the new ones arrive. 

But before installing the pistons I needed to roll in the new main bearings. This wasn't much fun, especially laying in the gravel and dirt to do it. The rear upper is a thrust bearing and has no oil hole to use for the ol cotter pin trick. So the rear thrust bearing was a PITA!! 

[Binderdan]

After the main bearings were installed I torqued the original main cap bolts to specified torque + 1/8 turn rather than 1/4 turn as per the manual since they have likely already stretched so I don't want to overstretch them. Right or wrong, that's what I did. 

Then it was time to install the pistons and rods. The rod cap opening goes towards the cam side of the engine as well as the cutout in the piston for the cooling jet. I know I had a large piston ring compressor somewhere, but all I could find was the small engine one I was given when I was a kid. Surprisingly it actually opened up far enough for the large pistons in this engine! The pistons installed pretty uneventfully. I pre-lubed them with clean Rotella 15W-40 as well as the cylinder walls. I installed the rod caps and bolts finger tight. Still awaiting the new rod bolts. 

I went ahead and started putting the top end back together. Starting with the head gasket and head. Thankfully I had some help with the head because it was tough to keep level with the crane without someone lifting one end and guiding it into place without damaging the head gasket. I pre-lubed the threads on the new head bolts and got them torqued. That was a workout! The torque was hard enough on 26 bolts, but the quarter turn beyond that was BRUTAL! Between smashing my knuckles when the torque wrench slips and the awkward positions while trying to achieve the final torque took everything out of me. Was tempting to use the impact for that last 1/4 turn but I know that doesn't work the same. 

I continued the top end installation with the injectors, lifters with the doubled alignment forks, rocker bridges, rocker shaft, injector oil rail, and valve cover and gasket, manifolds, wiring harness, EGR coolers and pipes, fuel filter assy, turbo etc. 

Finally the rod bolts showed up! Had a friend bar the engine over as I torqued the new rod bolts. Installed the oil pick up and oil pan gasket and oil pan. 

Once I added 8 gallons of Rotella 15W-40, and 6 gallons of coolant, I primed and installed the new oil filter. Almost ready to start!

I put the battery charger on the 3 group 31 batteries and wrestled the exhaust in place. I had a difficult time with the new sensors as the threads were damaged on the temperature probes, and I got a used differential pressure sensor since I damaged the original when I dropped the exhaust. Turns out all three temperature sensors are different part numbers. This was a problem because temp sensor #3 uses a longer wire and it wouldn't reach the connector. I ordered a correct one, but it was 3 days out. But I decided to try to start the engine without it. 

[jeeper61]

How many miles on the truck?

We heard the stay away claims and the horror stories with the EGR system.

When Navistar started warranty replacements with a Cummins swap that was confirmation they had bad problems.

Are you going to eliminate the EGR system?

[mmi]

2 hours ago, jeeper61 said:

When Navistar started warranty replacements with a Cummins swap that was confirmation they had bad problems.

Which engine?

That would make a 1/2 decent vehicle,but the rest is also going NLA . Then the swap wouldnt fly in the communists states.

[acem]

Looks like you'r engine work is coming along and you do a great job of writing it up as always.

We need a pic of you working on the truck!

Back in the 60s and maybe early 70s alot of beer trucks and other smaller semi tractors had a hybrid hydraulic/air brake system. Hydraulic on the tractor and air in the trailer. These were typical Loadstar 18xx sized.

Made great 10 wheelers  after the frame was stretched. Just add a tag axle with air brakes. With the roads we haul on round here, brakes get quite a workout. A friend still has one, 69 with 392 and 5+2 I think.

[acem]

4 minutes ago, mmi said:

Which engine?

That would make a 1/2 decent vehicle,but the rest is also going NLA . Then the swap wouldnt fly in the communists states.

The swap should be legal if done with the dealer kit. It should be EPA approved.

[Binderdan]

The truck only has 245K miles on it. Pretty low for having its second engine rebuild. I have seen these before at auction with around 450K on them so should be plenty of life left if I manage it properly. This particular one was in excellent condition, inside and out. This is one of the few that hasn't had a trailer jackknifed into the cab corners. Being a southwestern truck there isn't rust all over it. The radio was brand new and still had plastic on it. Just need to clean the layer of New Mexico dust off the interior once I'm done. 

 

I am looking into the delete. it's pretty expensive for the software portion, about $2,800. I have already made the physical pieces to do it. I have heard that once deleted these gain quite a bit of power and run forever like the old ones. 

During the MAXXFORCE crisis Navistar did offer a Cummins conversion kit. It included engine, wiring harness, and all adapters. The kit was around $35,000 so not a cheap conversion, but it was Navistar and EPA approved. Not sure if its still available anymore. 

I was trying to take lots of photos as I usually do, but I was focused on filming for a YouTube video and didn't get many photos. But stay tuned for the video, part one is already up. 

The time has come for the first start! After a final check over everything and all fluids topped off I started priming and cranking the engine. It took a lot of cranking but eventually I saw smoke coming out the turbo outlet flange(needed tightened more). With the amount of smoke I was concerned about plugging the newly cleaned DPF so I dropped the DPF back off for the first start. Sure enough I was getting a LOT of smoke. Eventually the engine started to hit and eventually came to life. The amount of smoke was unreal! I was concerned I had injector problems because the amount of smoke once it started was so thick I couldn't see the instrument cluster while sitting in the seat.

Thankfully after a few revs with the accelerator the smoke cleared and the engine settled into a smooth idle. Although the emissions light was on, UGH! Presumably because the DPF was removed and the #3 exhaust temp probe wasn't hooked up (awaiting correct sensor). 

The next day the sensor showed up and I reinstalled the DPF and plugged in the new sensor. I used my diagnostics laptop and Servicemaxx J1939 to clear the emissions code. I restarted the engine and it ran without throwing any codes. Yay!!!!

Time for a short test drive! I put the transmission in drive and headed down the road and back. The transmission shifted nicely through all 5 gears and it looks like the repair was a success! 

Upon my return to the house I detailed the interior which cleaned up nicely! Needs a trip to the carwash once I get plates and insurance on it. I also removed all the old 7Up graphics and fleet numbers.

Next steps are installing longer rear wheel studs so I can put the Alcoa 22.5 on the rear, Painting the front bumper, possible EGR/DPF delete, replace the lower right step(missing), repaint the peeling roof paint, try to get the transmission module flashed for 6th gear, and top it off with a "Make 7 Up Yours" custom made front license plate!

More to come!

[jeeper61]

6 hours ago, mmi said:

Which engine?

That would make a 1/2 decent vehicle,but the rest is also going NLA . Then the swap wouldnt fly in the communists states.

That would have the DT Maxforce.

Swap out the IH inline 6 for Cummins inline 6

[acem]

Looks like it's working out great.

You have a good trailer for it and a CDL  I expect?

Two rebuilds in less than a quarter million miles is crazy!

I have two Loadstar 1600 trucks with 345 gas engines. One is near 180,000 miles and still running great. The other has a quarter million but needs rebuilt pretty bad. Both engines have had numerous repairs but never rebuilt, heads off, etc.

 

[Binderdan]

I bought it to pull my 32' Lamar gooseneck flat deck trailer. You may have seen it in some of my other threads. I have a kingpin I can swap on the front of the trailer to hook it to the International DuraStar. But I might put a flip over ball behind the 5th wheel hitch at some point. Should pull my trailer so nice!  But in addition I just picked up a 28' dry van pup trailer! Its a 2016 Staughton trailer with an aluminum roof, nearly new tires, and included the removable cargo braces, I bought at auction for $1,050, a steal considering how nice the trailer is! Here's a photo of us bringing it home yesterday with a friend's K-Whopper. That CAT C15 didn't even know it was back there. I would have used the DuraStar but I hadn't put plates and insurance on it yet. I bought the dry van trailer because renting a 26' U-Haul is super expensive ($2,800+) and I have been considering moving so this could be my moving truck too. Or just end up becoming a portable shed 🙄.

I do have a CDL so I shouldn't have any issues driving it. Although plating and insurance is a whole can of worms in itself. DOT rules and regulations, ect. I will be plating it as non commercial 26,000 GVW, and my insurance quotes aren't cheap but still less than commercial interstate insurance. It will only be used for personal use, but it might be interesting trying to convince a DOT officer of it sometimes. I will keep a binder in it with all the stuff I keep in my commercial service truck just to cover my bases, as well as the required items(fire extinguisher, emergency reflectors, etc) and "NOT FOR HIRE" on the door. But that all is a complicated discussion in itself.

Well the right side step on the DuraStar was missing when I bought the truck. Probably hit something because the rear mount is bent. After a few big truck junkyard visits I realized that it has an odd sized step and cant easily be found. I ended up buying two shorter steps and welding them together to make a correct length step. Looks pretty good now!

The truck has an Allison 3000HS automatic transmission programmed for 5 speeds (5th being OD). These had 6th gear as a factory option but this truck was ordered as a 5 speed. The 6th gear is a double OD and the only difference is a software flash to utilize the 6th gear. There is a process you can go through to get Allison to reflash the TCM (Transmission Control Module), but you have to get permission from the OEM before Allison will talk to you. To get permission you have to go through your local dealer and they have to fill out a paper after inspecting the tires to ensure they are capable of the increased speed, and ensuring the increased driveshaft speed will not exceed a safe speed. After that it has to be sent to Navistar engineering for approval. Once approved, for a fee Allison will send the new software to the dealer and they can flash your TCM. 

However there is another way! There is some individuals that have the ability to flash TCMs for 6th gear without approvals for around $400 which is cheaper than the "correct" way. A lot of the "skoolie" RV guys go this route since the low gears in a bus are unlikely to get approved by the OEM. My DuraStar has 4:88 gears so with it in 5th gear 67 MPH is about all at a sustainable RPM (2000 RPM), but with 6th gear unlocked 77 MPH is at 2000 RPM. I Have removed my TCM and sent it off to have this done. I am awaiting its return in a few days. If you want the details on this process message me privately. 

The front steer tires are name brand and in good shape with good tread. The rear tires are ok for now, but they are recaps and getting a little thin on tread. I have a hard time justifying $500+ each for four name brand rear drive tires, but maybe eventually. I'm kinda torn right now between buying good used name brand tires for the rear or new imported tires. Obviously I will need to watch the speed rating since I will be doing interstate speeds. Has anyone had decent luck with the imported drive tires? I am finding some for as low as $280 each(almost too cheap to be good). I don't want to buy crap tires, but I am also not putting a lot of miles on this per year to justify new Michelins, Firestones, or Bridgestones $$$$.