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Posted

On my Farmall 706 d301 I was getting diesel into the oil so I replaced the seals between the pump and the timing cover and I ran it for about 30 minutes oil was low cause I did an oil change so I filled it the it ran for about 15-20 minutes and the oil was 3/4 of the way up the dip stick. Does anybody know what could have caused this?

Posted

I’m thinking you didn’t replace the right seals. I’m not a 706 guy, but on an 806/856/1206 etc, it’s the two round seals on the plump drive shaft/drive adapter.  And that’s after you verify that the pump itself isn’t the problem.  

Posted

The real problem is the flex ring inside the pump is breaking down and the pieces are plugging the return that Hydro mentioned above. Removing the return restrictions will buy you a little time, but prepare to get the pump properly serviced. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Injpumped said:

The real problem is the flex ring inside the pump is breaking down and the pieces are plugging the return that Hydro mentioned above. Removing the return restrictions will buy you a little time, but prepare to get the pump properly serviced. 

How much time are we talking? Do I have enough time till winter or just first cutting alfalfa and sweet corn planting. Also it sat for about 7-8 years before I got it last January in running condition.

Posted

Nurse it along until you can be down for a little while. It will likely start surging on pto equipment if the flex ring is going away. 

Posted

I would be surprised if a 706 flex ring would still be intact at all 
-- time and this junk fuel we have nowadays has had it's way with the ring

Fuel getting in the crankcase is straight up the umbrella seal on the pump shaft
-- common for inexperienced to roll the seal during install
-- also seen the seal put on backwards , so there is that scenario

Check ball and spring in the tank fitting should be removed on ll of these models
-- by now , the check has worn enough to cause troubles -- far beyond it's intended function 

The flex ring particles will get plugged in the pump outlet fitting
-- there were 2 different fittings , depending on the pump setup
-- and if someone had already updated the pump 

Fitting with the restriction wire in it -- and the fitting with the glass ball
You can clean the glass ball type with a small pick and patience
you can remove the wire from the other fitting and clean it

Also can remove the fitting -- but the fuel in the pump can aerate  and cause the govenor to surge some 

Posted

Once those problems start happening.....the ring goes fast.  If it is starting to give you problems, fix it now.   Otherwise you will be sitting halfway down the hay field with the baler, the rain coming at 6 pm, and a tractor that will run for 30 seconds at a time.   That is exactly what happened to my 806 - in 1-2 hours it went from running fine to not running.   Thankfully I could swap in another tractor.

Fixing that ring is a pretty fast job - IDK where you are, but talk to your local pump shop and ask how long it would take to get it fixed.  Maybe even make an appt....see if they can schedule you in for a fast turn??  Do any of them still do that?

Posted

I'm not even sure where there is a pump shop at but I'm sure we could find one somewhere.

If this matters to the injection pump stuff I know I rolled one of the seals putting them on.

Posted

Make arrangements to send it to Injpumped. Or another on here that is good with giving information. Someone will name him as he may be closer to you.

Posted

I removed a 1066’s pump yesterday for a pro-active rebuild.  I started making calls and talking to members here a month ago.  Best turn around  time I was quoted was “about 4 week” and the longest was “several months”.   Those  quotes were a lot better than the local pump shop, (that I’ve  used for 3 complete pump jobs  within the last 5 years)….that told me “we can’t get parts for those anymore”. 
 

So I’d call around, and ask politely 

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