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Everything posted by Injpumped

  1. If it's easy to make wheel touch housing, it's about junk. When normal the shaft does wiggle back and forth, and if you were to push hard enough to one side you can make the wheel touch the housing, but it takes a fair amount of effort. The bearings float in a cushion of oil surrounding them. In and out slop is very minimal, so it that's loose it's junk. They are usually passing oil into the intake side when loose.
  2. The 7250 pump I rebuilt a few weeks ago was a reman, and it took a lot to make it right again. Re-chromed plungers that was flaking off, different approach to "repair" the oring wear in the housing etc. Ironically this is a tractor I had rebuilt the pump on 20 years ago at the shop I worked at then in Mossville. He said they put a reman engine in it at some point and that's where the reman pump came in. So hopefully your local shop can work on the EP9 there and do a quality job.
  3. EP9 are common to leak under the barrel flanges. The housing gets a groove eroded in it. The mounting holes are slotted to adjust the balance from cylinder to cylinder. There is usually so much rust and dirt under those flanges, you need to use the special Denso puller to get it out, and then all the debris is falling into the pump. There is no way I would advise trying to reseal it on the engine. Most of us pump shops have the housings repaired in the seal area, and new housings are relatively inexpensive as well. I did 2 EP9's last month, 4960, and 7250. I see about 1-2 a year. The delivery valve holder is just 22mm hex, unlike a P pump having a splined top.
  4. very nice description of the early Roosa system as used on the indirect injected IH engines. There a lot of differences made on them in later years regarding the transfer pump and it's regulator method, advance mechanisms, and styles. Overall nice basic description of how the DB works.
  5. For the DB shaft seals, I offer my customers to either purchase or borrow the two tools that help facilitate the installation. If they are only doing the one, just borrow, if a shop that will be doing more later, then buy them with the job. The advantage you have is you have people, I am a one man show, I do parts ordering, putting away, answering phone, taking in the work, packing them up to ship out, invoicing jobs, and eventually get to do the actual work. I've had to quit selling pump & injector parts over the counter. Those sales always end up with "if I have any questions, I'll call you!" Well, that's what I'm afraid of lmao! I still sell turbos, and complete pumps though. Just keep in mind selling small parts here and there leads to a lot of time wasted with processing all that comes with it, in my case taking the one mechanic away from doing the work. I am very fortunate that I have a group of great customers, and most are patient to wait for me to get their project done.
  6. I feel the real reason there is no one to step up to take our place, is traditional fuel injection like automotive machine shops are kind of old technology. The engine world the mentality is replace with reman, or new, similar to injection systems, everything is focused on common rail. Well, I'm here to say, the old pump-line -nozzle systems will be around a very long time yet and will always need serviced. How long has it been since a new vehicle had a carburetor? 2-3 decades? There's still a huge market for carburetors and related work. Why? Because it works! Need to get the thought out of kid's heads that these are dying businesses! Evolving? Yes! Even my small shop not messing with common rail in house am able to offer my customers quality rebuilt products in a box. Many fuel shops are forced to close due to being required by Bosch to buy the 815 stand, common rail injector machine, etc. The big companies only care about servicing the current products. I am very thankful they keep making the parts for their older products, though they discontinue important parts continuously it seems! I am very glad I have kept my shop an under the radar "unauthorized" shop.
  7. Well, Glen, I've been waiting for some updates! What stands did you get? Ironically I bought some older Bacharach stands from out your direction last fall. Seems the pump shops are closing all over, and the few of us left have to do all the work. Being a little busy is good, but man, I can't do them all lmao!
  8. Brakeleen is an aerosol, so it just gets sprayed into the fuel galley. Not sure a funnel would be needed. Do not use brake fluid lmao!
  9. Typically to shut the engine off the governor has a shut off lever that moves the rack to zero delivery. Sometimes it's controlled by a cable, other times it has a solenoid connected to it so it will shut off with the key. Those can be made cable easy enough too lol! Only time I've ever seen a shut off valve in the fuel line to pump is for a emergency safety system like for pulling, or a murphy system. There is 2 check valves in the transfer pump where the primer is located and they can stick shut, but you would not ever get it to prime at all.
  10. So it would be an A pump or an MW on an international harvester built engine, the P pumps were not used until the new generation series came out. What I do is remove the inlet off side of pump, blow the fuel out with compressed air carefully, then try to fill fuel galley with brakleen, plug it when full. Bad part is it leans the wrong way. Taking the return out the back side may help. Take lines completely off outlets. Let sit with the brakleen. Check periodically as the brakleen will leak by inside and also evaporate a little. If this has a kill cable, it likely sat in the shutoff position. After sitting a while with brakleen still in it, try cranking it with lines left off. See if it spits the fuel out of each outlet. May run out of brakleen after a few seconds. Keep refilling it. Crank it some more. Move the shutoff lever and throttle levers to see if can feel the rack moving properly. If it keeps pumping good, connect the fuel supply line and returns back to normal. Crank it after bleeding the fuel galley again, observe foul now spitting out of the outlets. Before putting injection lines back on, make sure it quits pumping fuel when pulling the shutoff lever to kill position. Try it back and forth a few times to make sure it's got control. Never tighten the lines if it doesn't change pumping status. It will run away if you do. Only tighten lines after completely verifying the shut off does control it, showing the rack is moving properly. This is a last ditch effort, otherwise you'd need to remove the pump. No way would I ever suggest tearing it part way apart on the engine. Good luck and I hope if frees up for you, and remember to keep fresh fuel in it.
  11. The injectors are so simple, I've never seen these ever stick shut, to not allow the pump to blow fuel through them. This is an injection pump issue. It's coming out in sequence because the rotor is going around the firing order, just dripping out transfer pressure. It will give a false sense that it's actually pumping fuel. Take lid off to make sure it's not just a stuck closed metering valve.
  12. No smoke means no fuel getting through the injectors. My bet is the plungers are stuck in the pump and you're just seeing transfer pump fuel at the ends of the lines. Sounds like it's been sitting a while. Good luck!
  13. sled pulling is such a short duration of time, it doesn't have time to overheat. Plus these modern efficient turbos do blow more fresh air through the engine which essentially helps keep slightly cooler, except running 40psi of boost will heat that charge air up lol!
  14. I'd discuss the engine with you before committing to a turbo size for S200, but a lot of what goes into the selection is what is currently available lol! The turbos I have here, and the turbine housings are hit and miss, but I'd set it up with the 1.09, which I do have 2 of, and the S257 if wasn't seeing farm use.
  15. I forgot to point out the RSV governor is usually more responsive than the RQV. A tractor with the RQV could have more hp on the dyno, but not feel as gutsy in the field as one with the RSV governor.
  16. The orings on the injector tubes are only to keep oil from leaking. The fuel is sealed by metal to metal crush. You doing injectors on this job is additional to the p pump conversion. You would need to get that stuff with the injectors. Bitty, the 8950, (or 7250 I rebuilt for you) has a Bosch P 3000 pump with an RQV-K governor, typically used in truck applications, but some do get used in tractors, IH 4586, 4786, & 8550 AC are a couple that come to mind. The MX 230 also uses a Bosch P 3000 pump but has an RSV governor which is typically used in tractors and combines.
  17. I knew Jeff a little when I worked in the Injection Service of IL shop in Mossville. I knew he went to driving truck, and have dealt with his brother Jon who bought jeff out when he went trucking. I never heard about him dropping dead! I didn't know they had much to do with pulling either. I know Jeff's son is wanting to buy the building for equipment. I just searched and found his obit. All those times I saw Jon last fall he never ever mentioned Jeff dying! Both of them are younger than me! Any idea what of?
  18. That is exciting Glen! As mentioned above, that will be a nice addition to your current repair shop. I am in the process of buying out a closed shop's assets about 2-1/2 hours south of me. The shops are closing at a rate the rest of us cannot keep up with. It is an awful lot of stuff to have to deal with, in addition to keeping up with the work load, and I'm a one man shop! Good luck in your new adventure!
  19. Bill Deppe is great to deal with!
  20. If none of these suggestions work out, get on the unofficial Allis page, there are several guys on there always parting tractors out. They have a classified section you could put up a wanted to buy ad on. It is a very good page like this one, lots of good guys over there, some also here.
  21. Very likely a bad injector, but don't rule out a broken rocker arm. I've seen this in the past where the mechanic kept blaming the fuel system for a fuel in the oil issue, but it was indeed a failed rocker or pushrod. No compression on that cylinder caused the fuel to just wash down the cylinder wall.
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