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Injpumped

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About Injpumped

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Walnut IL
  • Interests
    motorsports, mostly tractor pulling, and drag racing. Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors.

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  1. I'll just keep my mouth shut from now on lol!
  2. Sitting from a pump shop with test oil in it is much different than diesel fuel. He has a timing issue.
  3. She seems nice! But some guys just don't like the ink, it's a dealbreaker here I guess! lol!
  4. I've read where some of the industrial tractors used a unique pto shaft and speed.
  5. Then turn the torque screw in until it is at an acceptable level. Now that we have info on why it smokes, now we can offer guidance. It could also be that the injectors are installed 180* wrong. The injection line needs to be right next to the valve cover. If backwards, it will smoke but not have much power.
  6. so it has an excessive amount of power? If yes, then turn torque screw in 1/2 turn at a time until you get it to an acceptable level. If not, but yet smokes black heavy smoke, you've got an issue elsewhere. Turbo could be a problem, or an air intake restriction, or a blown intake gasket or missing plug. Put a gauge in the intake manifold to read the boost pressure while under load. Should be around 10-15 psi.
  7. Is it just me, or am I reading about the building of "KILLDOZER II" lol!
  8. if the injectors are installed as you say, they are wrong, and that is your problem. As Matt stated above, the rocker cover is even notched for them to clear. I've seen this many, many times.Always blame the pump or injectors, when it was an installation error from the beginning. This would be why it never changed anything, you got it with them in wrong lol!
  9. Not sure where you're located, but the 074 nozzle hasn't been hard for me to get, but there's times when the old ones only need a good cleaning and put them back to work. I'm not too confident of your shop then. The pump torque screw has nothing to do with smoking at idle or light/no loads, that is timing, or the injectors are installed 180* wrong, remember the injector lines go over the returns. If inlet of injector isn't next to the valve cover, they are installed in the engine wrong. I do also question why you keep blaming the injectors, when shops let them go out the door 3 different times. When I run into this kind of issue, it's always a deeper mechanical problem.
  10. Injpumped

    282 trouble

    they may run 180* out of time, but would not have started well, or will not make enough power to pull itself.
  11. Injpumped

    282 trouble

    pump is 180* out of time, so it's injecting fuel when valves are partially open in overlap, not closed on the compression stroke.
  12. Those governor springs will last almost forever, no more that they are being compressed. That loose feeling governor spring is not likely your problem. I've refrained from mentioning the seemingly obvious broken flex ring, because I knew you rebuilt this one several years ago. Injectors in those are very simple and if it's not missing, I'd leave them alone. New parts are hard to come by, and expensive when you do need them. Many times on those, I'll soak the whole thing complete in my carb cleaner bucket, then wash off, and flush them on the pop tester to blow the junk out of them. It's nearly impossible to get them completely drip free, which is likely one of the many reasons those were retired years ago lol!
  13. return in bottom of tank is plugged.
  14. looks to have only bent the outer lever, which is replaceable externally. Unwind the spring and remove the 5/32 allen screw. Local pump shop should have the lever. 15848 is the stanadyne number I believe.
  15. Take it apart and see what is wrong. My big AC 720 garden tractor had a hydro issue 15 years ago plowing snow. Having rebuilt hydraulic pumps in an implement dealer, I didn't have much to lose. It's a sunstrand, same unit a JD 400 used. It was a sheared rollpin on the F/R input shaft, connecting to the swash plate. Ordered all my seals, gaskets and needle bearings from a Simplicity dealer, and put it back together. Been fine ever since. The charge (gerotor) pump was pretty tough looking, but was almost $1000 back then for new gear group. All it does is provide the hydraulics for the lift. It does get slow lifting when hot though. Id bet this later model Deere is a similar unit.
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