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Injpumped

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Walnut IL
  • Interests
    motorsports, mostly tractor pulling, and drag racing. Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors.

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  1. I buy the premixed universal coolant from O'Reilly's and it says it's compatible with all colors all brands. Haven't had any issues knock on wood!
  2. when the 45 came out, the last digit did indeed indicate the number of cylinders, hence it being the 4568. When the 86 came out, they were all just the 86 series, although the small doncaster tractors were the 84 series, most being 4 cylinder, but I think there's a few exceptions there too lol!
  3. Removal and installation tech advice is usually provided by the pump shop rebuilding it. Like mentioned above, us pump guys get blamed for a lot of issues that are actually installation error. This H100 wouldn't be subject to the above story, but there is a 50% chance you'll get it out of time lol!
  4. 2 complete revolutions are required to verify it's not going to hydraulic lock.
  5. The bolt in the access cover is to limit end play, and I'm sure there is a proper procedure in the IH manuals. No spring loaded button on the 361/407. If you're trying to time it with cover off and backing it up and going forward, you will see a lot of slop because the helical cut gears will walk in and out with change of direction. I'd turn normal direction to set timing, then only back it up after cover is on and jam bolt is adjusted. I've never seen one with that 1/4" spacer either. The Roosa drive assy is completely different than the RD conversion assy. Most pumps I've had come in here off RD conversions had an 856 pump. Guessing that is what most dealers did is order the later pump. Very similar, except the 856 has 10* advance, so needs timed to only 6* on engine. An 806 pump had 5 or 6* advance movement, and needs timed to 8 or 10* Good luck!
  6. One thing I didn't see pointed out is you set the injector height with exhaust valves open on that cylinder, and you set the exhaust valves lash with injector all the way down. Pretty basic engines to work on. It takes a special touch to get the "bounce" set on all the racks properly, but a 3-53 should be pretty easy. A 16V71 is not lmao!
  7. no, he is right, the early is 18 and b is 15 by specs. most just set them all at 18 with m100 pump.
  8. Wow! Didn't know that Aledo is her home town! We pull there, nice town over in God's country! lol!
  9. good price! Mine is 775. I got 2 in finally after being on bo for almost 2 years. Still waiting on some S2E, been a year now on those. Borg is slowly trickling stuff in.
  10. It could be either. Best get those injectors rebuilt before it ruins the pump head. I may be a cylinder ahead in firing order. Keep them numbered and it'll tell the story once your fuel shop checks the injectors.
  11. my book shows 16* for both the hydro as well as the belt drive. The hydro however has a much higher hi idle at 2970 vs belt drive at 2640. Now, we need pics! lol!
  12. It isn't good for the pump, generally causes leaks at the hyd head, plus they can develop a surge when using a hyd hose. Plus hyd hose can break down with fuel, and break apart. Many people will argue they've been running them for years with a hyd hose, good for them. After a pump rebuild, and I get a call about a surge, first thing I ask is about that hose. When the pump is fresh and tight it may act different than before the rebuild. This is just a few of my experiences.
  13. I've never seen an actual problem with the solid top napa/wix filters, but I have seen people put one of the exra seal rings in that groove on top of the element, no idea why. The seal goes in the filter base groove where the element seals. Kind of a pain to see working upside down. There's usually an oring on the center post to keep dirty and clean sides of filter separated. Post a pic of the top of your filter with seal installed.
  14. back is wide open, should just run up to hi idle, about 2600. Low idle, the rear screw would be straight up and down, then more forward will kill it, if you put the shut-off cam in correctly. All Roosa DB pumps will be back for wide open, forward for idle, or kill, depending on setup. None will be opposite having the levers be above the shaft. The lever would have to be below the shaft to be opposite, can't think of an application like that. I'm sure someone will say they've seen one though lol! But hey, what do I know!
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