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Posted
2 hours ago, Binderoid said:

We have to use Never-Seez on everything  in Ohio,  and that seemed to keep the connection  clean and tig

I have had arguments about this with people before, if you lubricate the threads you can apply proper torque, which keeps things tight, the argument being always that something will loosen up if you lube it. My dealer got all upset that I used never seize on my lug nuts, I personally have never had a properly torqued lug nut loosen up. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Binderoid said:

 

We have to use Never-Seez on everything  in Ohio,  and that seemed to keep the connection  clean and tight.

 

3 or 4 cans in my kit, down to where the brush won't reach, but way too much in the bottom to throw out.

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Posted
7 hours ago, Binderoid said:

The universal failure  point around  the solenoids on those and the later Power Strokes  is the output stud , whether it be from corrosion or looseness (or corrosion FROM the looseness), making  high resistance heat and the eventual  destruction  of the connection and solenoid  housing.

We have to use Never-Seez on everything  in Ohio,  and that seemed to keep the connection  clean and tight.

 I experimented mounting them on rubber blocks cut from  a  tire, after I observed the solenoid on my '95 PowerStroke vibrating to the point of being blurry...I thought,  "Well, that can't  be  good for it".  Solved the problem on the PowerStroke but it not definitive  if it helped  the PC  7.3.  I just  never  had any more trouble  with  them if I was lucky enough to get it apart after it was cooked.

When I got the donor motor, I went to hook the glow plugs up and broke the output terminal. It just broke right off but you could try to break the other ones and it wouldn't. It was strange the way it broke off too.

8 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said:

I just watched an episode of "Watch Wes Work" and he replaced a glow plug solenoid on his.

He said those control the ground and not the power, so you are stuck with that type of solenoid.

Those are a tough engine.

Show it a little love and it will treat you right.

I figured that out and thought that it was kind of strange that the switch controlled the ground instead of the power side on the solenoid. Was it easier to produce or cheaper to make? Those motors are sure tough too.

Posted
2 hours ago, supermechanic said:

3 or 4 cans in my kit, down to where the brush won't reach, but way too much in the bottom to throw out.

If you have plastic cans,  cut the bottom of the can off about 1-1/2" high. Great for  dipping bolts in. 

Or get an old toothbrush to scrape off the bottom.  People whine about how messy it is, but if you  take reasonable care of your tools, it isn't a problem. 

Posted
6 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

I have had arguments about this with people before, if you lubricate the threads you can apply proper torque, which keeps things tight, the argument being always that something will loosen up if you lube it. My dealer got all upset that I used never seize on my lug nuts, I personally have never had a properly torqued lug nut loosen up. 

A friend refused to use my table saw  after I Never Seezed the blade nut. He was certain the blade was going to come flying out, but he didn't understand the concept of left hand threads.  

  • Haha 4
Posted
6 hours ago, supermechanic said:

Those things are loud. I spent two weeks making cove with the exact set in a radial.

They work well, but I won’t lie, they make me uneasy. 

Posted
23 hours ago, supermechanic said:

3 or 4 cans in my kit, down to where the brush won't reach, but way too much in the bottom to throw out.

If we could post pictures, I inherited a 5 gallon pail of anti seize when I bought the farm.  Metal pail , still half full.

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