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Found 7 results

  1. Hello, Looking for assistance to possible sources of parts for my 1929 Six-Speed Special. Purchased a truck this weekend "as-is" with the snap ring on the throw out assembly out of its groove. Anxious to see the truck roll under its own power, we put it back into the groove on the sleeve and trunnion collar, only to have it pop off immediately when the clutch pedal was pressed. Would like to replace the entire throw out bearing assembly if I can locate either good used or new parts. According to the manual that jingles1928 so graciously provided me the parts I believe I need would be: - 20089V CL-729 SNAP RING - 20085V CL-725 TRUNNION COLLAR - 20086V CL-723 RELEASE BEARING possibly - 20088VA CL-721-1 RELEASE SLEEVE Also the truck is missing the accelerator pedal. If anyone has an extra assembly, I would appreciate the opportunity to purchase it. Again I believe the part numbers are: - 879VA ACCELERATOR PEDAL - 13603V ACCELERATOR PEDAL ROD - 917V ACCELERATOR BRACKET - 920V ACCELERATOR LEVER - 13604V ACCELERATOR CONTROL CROSS ROD Thanks in advance...
  2. I just purchased a 2000 mx240 it is a post 105,000 serial number. It had been sitting for a few months. I was told it needed new clutch packs. When I picked it up it wouldn't start. Brought it home and that was a simple fix just a 30 amp fuse. But here is where it gets interesting. Started it up and both transmission cooler poured hy-tran out the top. The copper tubes were split. They were frozen. Bypassed the coolers and started it again. This time they was no steering, no brakes no 3 point hitch and would not release park brake. The hy-tran was the color of scours. drained the hy-tran and ended up with 38 gallons instead of 30. Guessing the extra was water. So here are the questions. 1. Where could all the water come from? 2. Could this keep any of the hydraulic needs from working? 3. Could I maybe lucky and it may not need clutch packs just new fluid? Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.
  3. Posted 4/12/2019 09:11 Subject: MX170 neutral light is flashing, won't move I have an MX170, Tech just installed an Ontrac 3 the other day, did a calibration that night on the monitor, the next morning the tractor will not move. When you turn the key on the N light starts flashing and never shuts off. I have checked wires to the seat sensor all wires look good and when you turn the PTO on and stand up alarm sounds so I believe that the seat sensor is good. If you shuttle it to F or R and pull the park brake, alarm sounds so it knows it's in F or R. Everything else on the tractor works but will not move. You can hear the powershift work, PTO works, 3pt works, hydraulics work. The N light never quite flashing. I have replaced every fuse associated with the transmission or the PTO. Every other post that I've read says there light comes on when they shift to F or R, mine never quite flashing. Local dealer has been no help. Anyone have any ideas?
  4. New to My 1086. I am installing a High low upgrade kit from Triple Tractor. Theory has it this will stop the gears from locking UP??. Since the top of the transmission has to be opened up and every thing above that has to be removed. Is there anything else I need to upgrade while everything is removed. Don't want to have to take it apart again.
  5. As part of a full restoration, I am rebuilding the differential on my Farmall C. For most information, including fasteners, I rely on the caseih parts catalog online. However, the differential case bolts have no info there. I have the old ones... somewhere... But can someone tell me if these were torqued to yield, deformed thread, higher grade, or anything like that? I'm ready to put this thing together and my nasty innate analysis paralysis won't let me. Thanks KWRB
  6. Hello all, I am new to this board and case ih maxxum tractors. Due to the snow and difficult cattle feeding conditions I bought a 5240 with a loader and MFD to make things easier. So far that has not been the case. I bought it from an individual not a dealer. It has around 6000 hours. I love the tractor. It handles my ranch chores and the snowblower really well. I hauled it home and unloaded it to find 4th gear on the power shift quit working. Searched google and found this site. Pushed relays back in and problem solved. Then I replaced the water pump. I knew it had a leak just was not sure where when I bought it. Put on about ten hours feeding and blowing snow everything worked well. Then while feeding I noticed it wouldn't always move after changing ranges. So I would push in the clutch and shift out and back into the range and away it would go. Then a few shifts later it quit moving with the clutch all the way out. I drove it back to the yard with the clutch pushed in about an inch so I could plug the block heater in. Having about zero degree weather. If I let the clutch out all the way it would roll to a stop. I did some hunting and talking to local case ih service guys and checked the clutch switches with a continuity tester. They seem to work correctly. I also swapped the switches. I have 4 terminal switches. However with some experimenting I discovered by putting a jumper between the two terminals on the lower clutch pedal switch which in essence keeps the switch closed the tractors shifts and drives like normal and all the ranges and power shifts and reverser function correctly. After further discussion with the service techs we decided to replace the shuttle and transmission control relays. I bought two new 1987409c2 relays and installed them. Now the tractor won't move at all. If I reinstall the old relay in the transmission control location the tractor works if I leave my jumper wire on the clutch switch. The relay that I reinstalled in the transmission control location which is the lower right hand corner of the fuse panel has a different wiring schematic than my new relays it is a bosch pn 0332019150 see pic. The new relay schematic is shown in white. However my tractor functions with the grey bosch. This is becoming quite frustrating. I want my tractor working. Thanks in advance for your help.
  7. Attached are some pictures of the transmission on my 1940 B project. I removed the gear shifter assembly and cover plate and shifting arms and put that in my electrolysis tub to soak. So, what's my next step? Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions etc are most welcome. (I also sprayed as much as I could of the gears, etc with diesel and PB Blaster because I know this is all going to have to come apart at some point.)
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