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Found 18 results

  1. Advise or trick in setting in place right side control valve bracket on farmall 460 without damaging O ring where bracket attaches to frame?
  2. After a years work of A LOT of research, help from good friends, and more money than I intended to spend, because I wanted this tractor done the right way, no corners cut, we finally got it running and driving. So it's time to share my Farmall 706 Cummins swap. It started as a 282D, bought new in 1964, first diesel 706 tractor that Robinson Brothers sold in Delta, Pa. After three overhauls in it's life I decided the fourth time we would try something new. A call to a good friend, Ed Leaman, and I found a source for the adapter plate and flywheel. It's a good thing his place is only a half hour from our place because we made plenty of trips over the river. Here are the beginning steps of tear down, engine pull, and after it was cleaned up, we swapped out the 15.5 38's for a used set of 18.4's
  3. Hi All, Ive got a Farmall 706 with a D282 that is stuffed. Id like to swap in a Cat 3208 for something different, as i have one available. I have a few questions regarding the swap, if anyone could enlighten me that would be great. 1. Will the shorter chassis rails fit the 3208? 2. What type of adaptor plate is required to mate the engine to the transmission? Will it be custom machined? 3. Does the radiator from a D282 have an inlet and outlet that suits the 3208? 4. I have a NA 3208, somewhere around 210HP i think, can the rear end of the 706 handle slow speed tractor pulling once per year? Thank you in advance for any advice you may have- i realise it may be frowned upon to put a Cat engine in an IH machine, but they look awesome and turn heads! Cheers Crowley
  4. I love Letter Series ! esp W series. I did a rough tally on the total production numbers of the Letter Series ( including Supers ) and its around 1,050,000 units made without the Cub . Yet there is a few who just won't let up on them . ....whatever. What other series of tractor made by any company sold that many tractors. AND they were not cheap throwaways like some clunkers. I have been inside enough tractors to appreciate the quality and durability of these machines. So I thought we could tell or show with pics what little job your Letter Series still does for you. If you hate them please start your own thread on why you don't care for them I believe the Letter Series is what started the love we have for the red tractors. IH had such a presence in the rural culture in so many ways in that era I am just a hobby farmer /collector with a Farmall 656D and 434d as my modern tractors I try to use a Letter Series if I have a job they can do. My favorite plow is a 8C - 2 ace bottom plow with a W4, sure makes for a smooth field if I have time. Lets see what you have!
  5. I finally took an opportunity this evening to look through the calendar before hanging it on the kitchen wall. Quality work as always. The 766 diesel featured on the month of October did not mention the owners name. Maybe they wanted to remain anonymous? Does anyone know who the 766 belongs to? Just curious. Also wanted to congratulate Smoker, his 4000 hour 7130 Magnum graces the month of November.
  6. I just installed my restored 54-A Grader/Plow on my cub and uploaded the video to my YouTube channel. This is Part 4 in a video series I have been putting together throughout the restoration process of this plow blade. Part 5 will feature pushing some snow around once we get some plow-able snow here in Maine. I suppose Part 4 is also a good stand alone instructional video on how to attach the plow to a cub. Below are the links to the playlist for the series or just Part 4. I hope you will consider subscribing to my YouTube channel (where you will find 20+ Farmall Cub videos) and support the channel by giving it a Thumbs Up, leaving a comment, & sharing the videos. You can also follow me on facebook and instagram at "optvideo". Thanks and enjoy the videos, -Tom Part 4 - The series Playlist -
  7. Here is a trailer to a longer video about the process I go through changing my 1953 Cub from a planter to a mower. The link to the longer video is at the end of the short video. Enjoy! -Tom
  8. I have a IH Tractor Radiator marked 400 450 without the through hole for the steering shaft and it has three threaded nuts on the mounting tabs on each side of it. I am familiar with the Farmall 400 that uses the radiator WITH the hole OEM 361416R93 and 361417R93 this is NOT it. and when I look for the part number on the IH parts I can't seem to find the break where this no hole unit would fit? Does anyone know is it a CASE or a IH Farmall or something else going on here? Any help appreciated. Thanks
  9. We're These Farmall c touch control attachment lifters originally red or blue ? Under red looks Iike blue ? One side against differential looks blue . Wanted to straighten rods lifters and free them up then clean and paint them i got both colors so no problem with color .
  10. Hey guys, I'm photographing the cover for my newest book in Fredrick, Oklahoma in the end of May, and I need a 1206 or possibly an interesting black stripe for the cover of the book. The machine would need to be either a very clean restoration, or a clean working tractor is good as well. The shoot will be done in ready-to-harvest wheat, and with a local farm family in the shot. We're expecting wheat to be ready May 23 at this point--the date may move a bit depending on harvest. While we are in the area, Case IH will demo'ing their new equipment. Should be a fun event. If you have a lead on someone willing to bring a machine down, or if you would be, please contact me at lee@octanepress.com. Cheers, Lee
  11. As part of a full restoration, I am rebuilding the differential on my Farmall C. For most information, including fasteners, I rely on the caseih parts catalog online. However, the differential case bolts have no info there. I have the old ones... somewhere... But can someone tell me if these were torqued to yield, deformed thread, higher grade, or anything like that? I'm ready to put this thing together and my nasty innate analysis paralysis won't let me. Thanks KWRB
  12. Hello everyone - Greetings from Charlotte, NC. Unfortunately, my father passed away recently (he was 58) and I'm left with three Internationals: 1966 806D (pictured), 1967 806D, 1974 1466 These tractors were never show ponies - always work horses on a dairy. He bought the '66 806 before I was born (I'm 29). Because of this, they're all in need of a good amount of work - particularly the 806s, they both need a new clutch. I don't want to sell the tractors - I'd like to keep them and restore as I find time & money. Although I spent the first 20 years of my life milking cows, stacking hay, and cutting silage - I stepped away from that after college and now work in engineering. It's safe to say that these old tractors inspired my fascination with engineering and mechanical stuff. My first goal is to get them all running - some have been sitting for a few years, but were all running when parked. The '66 806 just required a new battery and a shot of ether to fire right up. I suspect the others will be the same. This will take years of work and tons of money, but hopefully it'll be worth it in the end. I'm sure I'll need the help and support of this community. Pictures of the other tractors to come shortly. Thanks, -Chad
  13. I am an ag teacher in Texas and we are currently restoring a Farmall F12. It is a 1934 model and our fuel tank is full of holes. Our tank has a small gas tank near the driver and a large kerosene tank. If someone has one or know where I can find one in working shape, I will buy and ship it. We are in a BIND! please help these kiddos complete their project. Please send pictures of the tank if you have ONE! reply here and I will send me email. All you help is greatly appreciated!
  14. I am currently looking at buying a 504 diesel and was wondering what problems, if any, these tractors were known to have? Or if anyone had any advice from their own personal experiences with them. Anyway to get some more ponies out of a D188? It's going to be pulling sled for the rest of it's days while I own it! I currently have a 504 gas burner and haven't had any bad problems with it. Anything is appreciated! Thanks!
  15. Hey guys, super c with 6v system won’t turn over hardly at all. New hot battery, cleaned all connections and had starter checked(it was fine). Will pull start with no problem and was starting ok before. Any advice? thanks, kyle
  16. Howdy, I'm new here but not new to the Red World! I am currently in the middle of restoring a "L54-A" plow to use with my 1953 Cub. The "Correct Police" may squawk at the "L54-A" identification, but I choose to label it thus since my plow is composed of components from both the Lowboy L-54 and the regular Cub 54-A Grader plow. That said, I have also posted a video of my progress so far on my youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/ourpassthyme I look forward to enjoying this site and getting to know some of the others here. -Tom The direct link to the video can be found here:
  17. I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  18. We are looking for the gasoline starting tank for a 1931 Regular, the large kerosene (distilate) tank was intact It appears that the 10-20 had the same fuel tank set up, so that may fit as well. Re-manufactured or existing used stock is accecptable. Could use a set of front steel wheels as well, the rear lugged wheels are in pretty good shape. It was retrofitted with welded rubber rims to the existing steel center spiders long time ago. It are the parts that are off the machine to make it complete to the eye. We are in South Carolina, cheers !!
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