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Showing results for tags 'farmall'.
Found 17 results
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link to archived topic Ok so my old topic was archived. I figured I would start another to show my latest task. A 263 punched out to 291cid. So this is where I am at at this point tractor is split. Awaiting on parts from machine shop. Short block is assembled. This is not your normal 291, it has no Reliance parts. It has custom built pistons with modern .062, .062 and 3mm oil rings. NOS crank and rod bearings. Compression is right at 9:1, I have thermo coatings on the chambers, piston tops and exhaust ports. It has extreme duty valve in the head (Stainless) with good quality seats and broze valve stem bushings. Cam is a Vogul regrind.
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After a years work of A LOT of research, help from good friends, and more money than I intended to spend, because I wanted this tractor done the right way, no corners cut, we finally got it running and driving. So it's time to share my Farmall 706 Cummins swap. It started as a 282D, bought new in 1964, first diesel 706 tractor that Robinson Brothers sold in Delta, Pa. After three overhauls in it's life I decided the fourth time we would try something new. A call to a good friend, Ed Leaman, and I found a source for the adapter plate and flywheel. It's a good thing his place is only a half hour from our place because we made plenty of trips over the river. Here are the beginning steps of tear down, engine pull, and after it was cleaned up, we swapped out the 15.5 38's for a used set of 18.4's
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Hey guys! While performing late night unloading shenanigans on another IH acquisition (a 70 Fleetstar) my Super Ms wide front steering arm busted. It's clearly been welded before, and of course broke along the welds. I've got that sinking feeling... you know, the one you get when something that you think will be a breeze turns into a major headache? So far my Super M has been a bit of a barn queen (thanks to idiot previous owners) BUT I've been able to find parts and got her running. I figured this centering arm would be no biggie as it seems like something that could break a lot. Welp, I've looked all night and I CANNOT find one for a wide front. I've checked hard copy catalogs from Stiener, Yesterday's Tractors, etc, no joy. I really wanted to do it right and replace the thing, not just do another janky weld. Anyone got suggestions? Am I totally boned here? Like I mentioned it's for a wide front Super M. The tie rods got a little bent too, but I'm confident I can straighten them out. She still tracks straight thankfully, **** the bend might have aligned the front wheels some LOL. Pictures attached. Sorry it's night time... like I said, late night shenanigans... in one of them I'm holding it up as it should be. Thanks guys!
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Is there some trick to installing a split felt type rear main seal/seal carrier so that it doesn't leak? I removed the upper and lower carriers from the engine block, picked the old felt out of the carriers, and cleaned them up. Then I dipped the new felt in engine oil for a few hours, pushed it into the grooves and continued compressing it into the grooves until I was able to get both retainers to line up with the holes on the crankcase. I put grease on the crank prior to final assembly. I didn't trim the felt. I installed the small gasket segments between the halves and between the block and the retainer. I used sealant on the gaskets during install. It was dry for a couple hours and then the leak started... I can tell it is from the rear main seal, but can't identify the exact spot, it is all oily, so thinking it is between the shaft and the felt at this point... -
I have fuel in my engine oil on a hydro 100. From what I have found, the best thing to do is to have the injection pump rebuilt. How do I reinstall the injection pump? How do i set the timing? I know nothing about this but I want to learn to do it right the first time.
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I have a hydro 100. Tractor has 7000 hours, i was told when i bought it, that it has a engine out of a combine that had 3500 hours on it. I left the tractor sit all summer, came back to start it and I saw diesel in the engine oil! I wrenched on the fan pulley to see if the engine would turn and it seemed fine as best as I could tell. I changed the oil. Tractor will not start because the starter turns over hard. I have 13 volts at the starter. Is my fuel pump leaking or my injectors? Do i need to drain diesel from a cylinder? If i get it started, can i run it as long as i keep the oil fresh? Im near scottsbluff nebraska, and torrington wyoming. Do you know any mechanics i could call to help out around here? -
I recently got a 1943 Farmall H to work on. Anyone know of any parts sources? asking so when I really DIG IN, I'll know where to go to get certain parts
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I'm not familiar with the Farmall H, Super H, H-TA, HD, etc. I have a general idea of how to operate one but it's the gear pattern that has me perplexed. I've only operated a Super C at the moment and have plans to buy a Super H so, I want to know at least the basics of like, what gear is where and what I need to maintain after (number of hours). if anyone could help me figure out the H, Super H, HD, H-TA, etc. that'd be helpful.
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Hey guys, I’m in the works of purchasing parts and a 560 for a Farmall 560 puller. I have access to a d360 in many pieces that I’d have to find most of the bolts, front cover, rear cover, injection system and basically rebuild it, I also can get a dt360 and all I’d have to do is front cover rear cover and do something different with the injection system, so basically the dt360 would be cheaper and more plug and play sort of project imo. So, my question is, if you all where doing this what engine would you do, what injection system, would you do anything to the rest end/transmission? I’ll probably TA delete it, possibly needle the diff. This will be for 7500#-8500# and maybe 9500# 8mph class and occasional 10mph with 20.8 cuts. Thinking 300-500hp depending of cost of things and money at the time. Also, I know the d360’s are getting harder to find and are getting g expensive to find/get parts. That why the dt is looking like a better solution. Thanks
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Thought I would post some photos of my old Farmall 300. Been in the family since new. Used to run a grain auger for 40 plus years. I now use it to make hay and plow snow.
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I just installed my restored 54-A Grader/Plow on my cub and uploaded the video to my YouTube channel. This is Part 4 in a video series I have been putting together throughout the restoration process of this plow blade. Part 5 will feature pushing some snow around once we get some plow-able snow here in Maine. I suppose Part 4 is also a good stand alone instructional video on how to attach the plow to a cub. Below are the links to the playlist for the series or just Part 4. I hope you will consider subscribing to my YouTube channel (where you will find 20+ Farmall Cub videos) and support the channel by giving it a Thumbs Up, leaving a comment, & sharing the videos. You can also follow me on facebook and instagram at "optvideo". Thanks and enjoy the videos, -Tom Part 4 - The series Playlist - -
As part of a full restoration, I am rebuilding the differential on my Farmall C. For most information, including fasteners, I rely on the caseih parts catalog online. However, the differential case bolts have no info there. I have the old ones... somewhere... But can someone tell me if these were torqued to yield, deformed thread, higher grade, or anything like that? I'm ready to put this thing together and my nasty innate analysis paralysis won't let me. Thanks KWRB
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Hello everyone - Greetings from Charlotte, NC. Unfortunately, my father passed away recently (he was 58) and I'm left with three Internationals: 1966 806D (pictured), 1967 806D, 1974 1466 These tractors were never show ponies - always work horses on a dairy. He bought the '66 806 before I was born (I'm 29). Because of this, they're all in need of a good amount of work - particularly the 806s, they both need a new clutch. I don't want to sell the tractors - I'd like to keep them and restore as I find time & money. Although I spent the first 20 years of my life milking cows, stacking hay, and cutting silage - I stepped away from that after college and now work in engineering. It's safe to say that these old tractors inspired my fascination with engineering and mechanical stuff. My first goal is to get them all running - some have been sitting for a few years, but were all running when parked. The '66 806 just required a new battery and a shot of ether to fire right up. I suspect the others will be the same. This will take years of work and tons of money, but hopefully it'll be worth it in the end. I'm sure I'll need the help and support of this community. Pictures of the other tractors to come shortly. Thanks, -Chad
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I am an ag teacher in Texas and we are currently restoring a Farmall F12. It is a 1934 model and our fuel tank is full of holes. Our tank has a small gas tank near the driver and a large kerosene tank. If someone has one or know where I can find one in working shape, I will buy and ship it. We are in a BIND! please help these kiddos complete their project. Please send pictures of the tank if you have ONE! reply here and I will send me email. All you help is greatly appreciated!
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Howdy, I'm new here but not new to the Red World! I am currently in the middle of restoring a "L54-A" plow to use with my 1953 Cub. The "Correct Police" may squawk at the "L54-A" identification, but I choose to label it thus since my plow is composed of components from both the Lowboy L-54 and the regular Cub 54-A Grader plow. That said, I have also posted a video of my progress so far on my youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/ourpassthyme I look forward to enjoying this site and getting to know some of the others here. -Tom The direct link to the video can be found here:
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I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
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We are looking for the gasoline starting tank for a 1931 Regular, the large kerosene (distilate) tank was intact It appears that the 10-20 had the same fuel tank set up, so that may fit as well. Re-manufactured or existing used stock is accecptable. Could use a set of front steel wheels as well, the rear lugged wheels are in pretty good shape. It was retrofitted with welded rubber rims to the existing steel center spiders long time ago. It are the parts that are off the machine to make it complete to the eye. We are in South Carolina, cheers !!
