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  1. Got a spun bearing causing a rod knock on cylinder 5. Crank shaft is out of round over .004 so it’s gonna take a new crank. I’m only 28 and this is my first time replacing a crankshaft, didn’t know if there was a trick to getting it out other than splitting the tractor
  2. Anyone know if it’s possible to get the crank out of a 1486 without splitting the tractor?
  3. SeanP


    Hey guys does anyone know how to read this serial number. Guy has an engine for sale and is advertising it as a 436 but the serial on the block says otherwise. I know the top number shows it being a block from a truck. Why are there 2 serial numbers? Anyone know how to read the bottom number? He claims it came out of a 1460 combine
  4. Is there a way to check the pump pressure on my 1486? I have an engine knock that appears to be fuel related. I have replace the injectors and blown out the return line and still have a knock. Engine will only start with starting fluid. I have already check to make sure timing is correct on pump and flywheel
  5. How do I check my pump timing on a dt436. Bought tractor with issues. Won’t fire without ether, puts out tons of white smoke when I turn it over. It will stay on and run but sounds like it has a fuel knock and pours out white smoke. Running it in the shop with the overhead door open will just about burn your eyes out. I’m wondering if the pump is off 180 degrees. Thx
  6. When we’re on corn we usually have 2 dump sites going, one with an 8” auger and the other with a 10”. We’ve got three drake hoppers and a 750 grain cart, running an 8 row head. It’s all we can do to keep up with anything over 200 bushel. Running the augers with super m’s so I’m sure that slows us down a tad.
  7. An auger that big might make J-Mech’s 784 lug a bit
  8. When you get a year with wet corn it takes a little power to run a 10” swing away. Plus these old internationals are just fun to play with. If ppl don’t keep them running there won’t be any around
  9. I know the history on this tractor so I would like to fix it up. My cousins always maintained things. I actually spread lime with it before that guy destroyed it and it ran great. It needs a new seat and a cab kit. All I’m gonna do with it is run an auger in the fall and plow some snow with it. I bought it expecting to put 5 or 6 grand into it
  10. Had a mechanic out today and I have issues in the bottom end. Cam shaft is also going out. Gonna pull the pan and see what we find
  11. I’m just going off of what the neighbor told me had happened. He likes his beer so his memory could be a little fuzzy haha. Rain collar was missing off of the exhaust stack so rain was running down it and rusted a hole in the muffler, turbo bearings feel tight, but idk about the seals. I’ll see what I find on that exhaust valve tomorrow and go from there
  12. I’d say the tractor has between 5,000 to 6,000 hours on it. When the head was off the tops of the pistons looked good, nothing was scored, inside of sleeves looked good too. No brass shavings on oil filters either.
  13. Yes I’m familiar with the injector pump tick on the international engines. I can hold my ear up to the pump and this noise is not the tick coming from the pump. I’ve had quite a few international tractors over the years 806,966,1066,1086,1586,1486. I’m running it with the valve cover off so I can watch the rocker arms and listen. This is a noise that sounds very similar to an injector knock. Obviously it isn’t the injectors though because I just replaced them and primed each line with fuel. I feel like exhaust valve on cylinder 4 is my issue. I will dig into it more tomorrow and let you guys know what I find
  14. I could maybe try tightening the tappet screw down a tad bit on that valve and see if the tick gets any better
  15. I might just go for a lower end rebuild. I don’t really want to tear this back apart in 2 years because I cut corners. Especially after it was ran too hot
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