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Texas Tony

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About Texas Tony

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday March 1

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Central Texas
  • Interests
    1466 International Harvester
    B Farmall with 2-row cultivators & track plow

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  1. I have one just like that and use it quite often, especially with a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up tractor parts. Folks who don't have one don't know what they're missing! Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.
  2. Yes, it has the deluxe cab. I'm thinking about just using a brush on a long handled dowel and scrubbing it out and then washing real good and then lightly rinsing it with diesel once I get it cleaned. Because I don't really welcome the idea of removing the cab to get the tank off.
  3. My 1466 died about a month ago while my dad was putting out hay and I'm just now getting around to working on it. I changed the filters and found a good amount of trash in the filters, including a yellow jacket. It appears that there is a certain amount of sludge, etc in the bottom of the tank that is stopping up the line- my question is what is the best way to remove the tank? Cleaning it is no problem once I get it off, but any advice on how to pull it (easier is always better) would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. I didn't even have to look at the flywheel. I got it on TDC, set the points, and it fired up. Thanks for the words of wisdom to you all.
  5. Gentlemen:Going from what you've said over the last couple of days, I determined yesterday afternoon that the pulley was going ON the shaft, come **** or high water. And go it did!I pulled out the tap & die set again and kept pushing and turning and cutting until I cut through and cleaned up the thread. They were boogered up just enough to prevent the half inch stock from starting. Once I get them cleaned up with a healthy dose of brake cleaner to wash out the shavings, I sprayed in some white lithium grease, screwed in the half inch althread, complete with the pulley, several assorted sizes of big washers, followed by the nut and BAM! Magic happened Within two hours of getting the pulley on, it was in time, valves set, and with a couple squirts of gas into the cylinders, she popped off, so the old girl has life once again.Photos as soon as I get everything finished up. Many, many thanks to all who've taken the time- and persistence- to help a youngster through to success and co completion.
  6. I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  7. I believe I understand correctly that there should be a timing pin near the crankshaft pulley, but I do not have one. Can anyone tell me if I'm just not seeing it or if mine has broken off? If it is gone, where do I put the replacement? Thanks in advance for the advice and encouragement you've given so far on this board.
  8. Long story short, I had my 113 in my B rebuilt in a machine shop that is high volume and does reputable work. They left the push rods out because I was going to try and find another valve train assembly off of another B that a friend of mine had. I found one, took it off and brought it home, put the push rods in- numbered and re-installed in trhe same order they came out- and this is the result. Are the gaps the result of my not having turned the crankshaft enough, thus creating rhe gaps between the tops of the push rods and the cups on the tappets? I grew up with Moline equipment and never worked in IH tractors until recently. Anybody have any ideas? I have other questions about timing marks on timing gear and governor, but I'll save that for another posting. Any help is most welcome and appreciated.
  9. I'd like to get what's left of my tractor on a cherry picker and roll it outside to clean the rear end and transfer case out (with mineral spirits) but I'd like to have the gear shifter put back on before I do this... can anybody tell me how to line the rails up with the shifter? I took pictures before disassembling it and have the yokes and rails cleaned up and put back together, but my shifter willnot move the rails, so I've done something terribly wrong, somewhere. Any ideas and/or suggestions?
  10. I would have never thought to magnetize the plug. A million thank you's for that little nugget of wisdom!
  11. I jacked both axles up and both wheels spin freely. I manually moved it into gear and the whole shaft and gears turn very smoothly. Aside from the rust, it doesn't look that bad at all, but then, I'm not a transmission man.
  12. Once more I come back to the gathering of the best and brightest... So I removed the cover and gear shifter and pulled the shifting rails out to clean. That part cleaned up quite well, with very little rust. After soaking the gears abd assembly in the transmission down with PB Blaster and diesel for a couple of days and draining the rear end- which was half full of water- I have both rear axles up on jack stands and both wheels turn freely with no roaring. The bullgear, aside from a little surface rust, is tight and hardly any wear on the teeth; it sounds like any other bull gear I've ever heard. (See accompanying photos.) The tranmission gears also turn and move forward and back (or fore and aft, as they say in the fleet.) Am I ok with leaving all of this alone? My gut tells me to pull it all out and replace the bearings, though, and that's what I'm battling is to take the time and replace what is needed. I guess what else I'm looking for is some comforting words from the crowd that everything will be ok, that I can do this, and while it's apart, go on and do it right. I've never been into a transmission like this before, let alone a PTO like this, either, but it doesn't look terribly complicated. Plus, I have a service manual and this forum to refer to if I get the the point of throwing hammers against the barn wall. If anyone sees anything that sends up a red flag to you, please let me know. I'm refurbishing this tractor for our 7 and 2 year old daughters and to cultivate a few acres of garden, so it's going to be on relatively light duty once it's running. Thanks in advance and I look forward to hearing from you all. Tony
  13. Attached are some pictures of the transmission on my 1940 B project. I removed the gear shifter assembly and cover plate and shifting arms and put that in my electrolysis tub to soak. So, what's my next step? Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions etc are most welcome. (I also sprayed as much as I could of the gears, etc with diesel and PB Blaster because I know this is all going to have to come apart at some point.)
  14. First, let me thank everyone in advance because I would have never decided to tackle this project without previous help in this forum on another tractor. That being said, let me pose my questions with some background. I have a 1940 B, serial # F.A.B. 40150 that arrived on our farm close to 20 years ago after a neighbor traded it to my dad for some work. Long story short, it's been sitting for nearly 18 years and is now in my barn in pieces. I have the engine apart and crank and block both sitting in electrolysis tubs, and will hot tank them probably in the next week or so, including the governor, carburetor, and everything else engine-related that I can get into the tank to clean up. Suffice to say that this will be a pretty thorough refurbishment since I plan to put this tractor back into light duty cultivating our garden and small jobs around the place. So, here's the fun part: 1) I don't see a problem with buying a complete overhaul kit that includes valves, gaskets, etc. Or should I not? I've never done this before so I'm asking the experts, here; this will be my first engine overhaul, but I've grown up working on equipment, have toolboxes for of tools, and a nice barn/shop to do this in, so why not. If you had to buy a rebuild kit, whose would you buy and your thoughts on the product(s). 2) I've also read that step-head pistons are better if a tractor is going to be working. It may wind up in our local parade, but that's once a year- the rest of the time it'll be wearing double-row cultivators or pulling a planter. What are the pros and cons of step-head pistons? 3) The radiator: while taking it off, one bolt on the left side (while sitting on the tractor) was rusted smooth off and pretty much disintigrated when I took the radiator off. The other broke the whole piece of cast-iron off from the block that it was bolted to when it came off. I'm thinking it had already stress-fractured at some point, but nevertheless, it's off. Can a good radiator shop replace those bolts in the bottom, or am I looking at a new radiator because of that issue? When I drained the radiator, it was still green and was not leaking anywhere, so at least I know the core is still in good shape. I'd like to get some answers before I start buying parts this week, and I wanted to bring my concerns here because I trust the folks in this forum and value your opinions.
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