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Texas Tony

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About Texas Tony

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday March 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Texas
  • Interests
    1466 International Harvester
    B Farmall with 2-row cultivators & track plow

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  1. I have one just like that and use it quite often, especially with a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up tractor parts. Folks who don't have one don't know what they're missing! Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.
  2. Yes, it has the deluxe cab. I'm thinking about just using a brush on a long handled dowel and scrubbing it out and then washing real good and then lightly rinsing it with diesel once I get it cleaned. Because I don't really welcome the idea of removing the cab to get the tank off.
  3. My 1466 died about a month ago while my dad was putting out hay and I'm just now getting around to working on it. I changed the filters and found a good amount of trash in the filters, including a yellow jacket. It appears that there is a certain amount of sludge, etc in the bottom of the tank that is stopping up the line- my question is what is the best way to remove the tank? Cleaning it is no problem once I get it off, but any advice on how to pull it (easier is always better) would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. All it took was persistence. I decided that the pulleywas going on, come **** or high water. Took my course-thread half inch tap and just started working it in. I'd turn a quarter round, back up, then go half a round. Fifteen minutes later it was cleaned up and like new. Ever so often I'd back the tap all the way out and wash out the cuttings with spray brake cleaner, then shoot a little WD-40 in and get back to it. Needless to say, the pulley went on quite easily. Setting the valves took ten minutes. A friend of mine who was a Caterpillar mechanic for 30 years came over and it went like clockwork. We sprayed a little gas in the cylinders the other night and it popped off, so we're in good shape. I can't begin to thank you enough for your help and advice.
  5. I didn't even have to look at the flywheel. I got it on TDC, set the points, and it fired up. Thanks for the words of wisdom to you all.
  6. Gentlemen:Going from what you've said over the last couple of days, I determined yesterday afternoon that the pulley was going ON the shaft, come **** or high water. And go it did!I pulled out the tap & die set again and kept pushing and turning and cutting until I cut through and cleaned up the thread. They were boogered up just enough to prevent the half inch stock from starting. Once I get them cleaned up with a healthy dose of brake cleaner to wash out the shavings, I sprayed in some white lithium grease, screwed in the half inch althread, complete with the pulley, several assorted sizes of big washers, followed by the nut and BAM! Magic happened Within two hours of getting the pulley on, it was in time, valves set, and with a couple squirts of gas into the cylinders, she popped off, so the old girl has life once again.Photos as soon as I get everything finished up. Many, many thanks to all who've taken the time- and persistence- to help a youngster through to success and co completion.
  7. I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  8. I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  9. I believe I understand correctly that there should be a timing pin near the crankshaft pulley, but I do not have one. Can anyone tell me if I'm just not seeing it or if mine has broken off? If it is gone, where do I put the replacement? Thanks in advance for the advice and encouragement you've given so far on this board.
  10. I tightened the stands down last night, but did not torque them because I couldn't find how many pounds they should be tightened to, but will look again this evening. I backed off all of the adjusting screws in the arms and will time it tonight and get them set. Thank you to all who've commented and even looked this over. I know I can count on the advice I receive from this board. Y'all are always the best at offering support and encouragement to the young cubs out here trying to learn this on our own. And I appreciate it.
  11. I loosened all of the adjusting screw in the push rod end of the arms, and tightened down all three nuts on the stands. Everything looks good so far. I'll try to post some pictures when I get back to the shop later.
  12. Yes sir, will do. I'll back them all the way out, then torque the nuts down on the stands. And thanks again.
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