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About trucker1

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  • Location
    Southern Maine, USA
  • Interests
    Truckin' fool from the old school

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    I found some more info on your PTO, it says to use the same kind of oil you use in the transmission, so lets say 80-90 gear oil for example. It take about 1 1/2 pints or whatever that would convert over to in liters if that is how you measure things. The fill plug is on the top, the level plug is on the lower right side and the drain plug is on the bottom. I can see the level plug in your first photo. Take that out, fill with gear oil at the top until it runs out that hole and put the plug back in. Run for a bit and then check the level again. I found all this info in my operator's manual. George

    That is a "reduced speed power take off, 535 RPM", listed as an attachment or special order by IH. I have no idea about what they take for oil or how much, but there is a shaft seal between the PTO and the transmission, so it must have it's own oil. The pipe pointing down in the third picture is listed as a "breather" and should be pointing up. Also, what series is your machine, TD9, TD91, or TD92. It might make a difference as to why the original owner put the pump on the back. George
  3. TD9 91 loss of Hydraulics

    Hey Hector, I just measured up a spare shaft that I have that I know came out of a TD9, but it has 14 teeth on the crank pulley end, outside diameter is 2 1/2, and the other end is the same 1 3/4 by 6 teeth. This shaft is from a pump for an BE blade, so different than the one the OP listed. and is only 10 inches long. Did you count the 11 tooth end right? as I think all of the crank pulley ends should have the same number of teeth. If it does have 14 teeth then I think yours is the one that he needs. George
  4. TD9 91 loss of Hydraulics

    Someone on here may have one, but I think they are pretty scarce now. may have to have a machine shop make the splined end and weld it onto the tube. And if that looks that bad, then the part on the front of the crank snout, inside the lower pulley has to be junk too. George
  5. R Pope is right, the engine can be swapped in, and having everything from the TD9 is a big plus. You will need the hood, the gas tank for the back of the radiator, the diesel tank and the return line, as the gas cat doesn't have one. Probably swap in the dash panel too will make it easier. I put a gas engine in a TD9 a few years back and had to fabricate a bunch of stuff, but only had the engine, not the gas tractor. Eventually pulled the gas engine out and put a TD9 engine back in after I found a good one. First thing is like you said, pull the head and see what you have. Also tell us where in the world you are. I still have engine parts for the T9, good if you are close, problems if you are half a world away. George
  6. TD6 Dozer/Loader

    Do you usually start tapping for syrup this time of the year? In my neighborhood the sap doesn't start to run until around the first part of March. George
  7. Oil Filter

    My Wix book shows 51147 fits something John Deere. There are 3 listed for TD14, depending on the series, 51146, 51149, 51155. George
  8. TD14 Bendix spring, possible solution

    Same here, could not see the photos. And I was interested as I have 3 or 4 old starters that will be going in the scrap and if the springs are that rare and I have one, I sure would hate to find out later that I threw it away. George
  9. TD 6 compression release lever

    Yup, that is the spring. If it is not attached, the part that it is hooked to on the bottom just swings down on the big bolt to the left. That is the lock lever. thanks Sugarmaker George
  10. International 250 Loader

    The large spring and cylinder next to the seat is part of the "Hydro-cushion" that Drott put on their loaders, it cushions the hydraulics and supposed to take the stress off the machine when operating. It also is supposed to help when digging with the bucket, the big cylinder will load up the spring and then the spring returns the pressure to the hydraulics during break out. I have never tried or heard of anyone taking the spring off to take the cylinder out. I have no idea how much preload is on that big spring, as there are four long bolts, about an inch diameter that hold it down. There is a 1/4 turn shut off in the hydraulic line just before it goes into the bottom of the cylinder, and if it is leaking bad you can turn it off and eliminate the hydro cushioning. I don't see that it makes a whole lot of difference. George
  11. TD 6 compression release lever

    The linkage behind the carburetor is where the locking mechanism for the lever is. there is a short spring that holds it engaged until you over ride it by throwing the lever up. If the spring is missing or unhooked it will not stay engaged. George
  12. 1949 TD9

    That is a fine looking machine. And it looks like you have the correct operator sitting in the seat. Good luck with it. George
  13. 1952 I/H T6 Crawler Project

    The brass nut behind the driver is a packing nut. Yours looks a little different than on an original. It threads into the big nut that holds the bearing and the pulley on. Tighten the brass nut a LITTLE, like 1/8 turn and then run it to see if it stops the leak. If not turn it another 1/8. the inside of that brass nut is tapered and there is a water pump packing inside so it squeezes the packing down against the shaft. If that is a rebuilt pump then it was just put together snug on assembly so it needs to be tightened up until the leak stops. If it bottoms out then the nut can be taken off and more packing added. George
  14. Going for it

    I don't see where it is connected to anything else, just an in and out for the exhaust. Possible homemade spark arrestor? George
  15. Steel plate "may" work, but the clutch assembly has to move over towards the trans as the drum fit over the drive plate on the other side. I find if you get a strain on the assembly, then grab the strap and rock it back and forth works well too, click it up a couple more notches and then rock it again. George