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About trucker1

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  • Location
    Southern Maine, USA
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    Truckin' fool from the old school

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  1. I agree with Ian, if you can you should have the same gearing on both sides. but the sprocket drive gear has 57 teeth with 12 on the pinion so 4.75 to 1 ratio. With 13 teeth it is 4.385 to 1. Real weird thing is I was checking the tooth count on the original 13 tooth pinion that I have, #52207DA and I came up with 13 teeth, but my parts book says it should only have 12, like the upgraded 64487DA does. But it has 13, counted it a half dozen times. The parts book says the old pinion for the wide tread has 13 teeth and the upgraded has 12, and that is right as I have 4 of those, but it says the original narrow tread had 12, but it did have 13. I think that they made a mistake in my version of the parts book. Service manual also lists it as having 12 and 57 teeth. The upgrade came at machine number 4383. George
  2. How many teeth does your pinion have? 12 or 13? The first couple thousand machines had the 13 tooth and then they upgraded to the 12 tooth. They did not upgrade the bull gear so either will work, just that the 12 has a better tooth contact than the 13 and there must have been a wear issue with the 13. If your machine will see a lot of use I would make sure to use the 12, but for occasional use, the 13 should work just fine. George
  3. Will these help? or are you looking for the linkage down inside. This one is on my TD91. Top rod goes to the brake lever in the rear, bottom goes to the forward reverse lever in the front. George
  4. It'll run on gasoline fine, just no power. What are you planning on doing with it? Just shows or working it. I ran a T9 dozer with a gas engine and it had about half the power of my diesel. Your crawler has less compression ration than the gasoline engines, so less power. It will crawl around just fine, but if it had a blade for pushing or pulling land plows or disk harrows, you will have a tough time doing it. I see it had shutters in front of the radiator, rod from the dash crank to the radiator is missing. Are the shutters still there? If they are you should get them working if they aren't all rusted off at the bottom. If you do decide to get it so you can run it on kerosene, you will need the shutters to work to get the engine up to temp on gasoline before you switch it over to Kero. The book says to run it on gas for 20 minutes with the lever on hot before you switch it over to kero and flip the lever down. You will never get it hot without shutters working. George
  5. Wow, TD9inidaho, I thought I had seen the only V8 conversion in a TD9. I bought a radiator years ago from a guy, he had pulled the motor out of a TD91, but a 350 V8 from an Oldsmobile with the auto transmission. He put a car radiator in it because he needed the trans cooler. That gave him all sorts of gears between the 4 speed dozer trans and the 3 speed auto. He kept the top tank from the dozer radiator and built a framework on both sides and mounted the top tank on it so he had a place to bolt the hood back on, I got the radiator bottom tank, core and both side braces for $75. I already had a good top tank so worked out good for me. Sure wish I had taken photos of that jigger when I was there. he said there was nothing wrong with the diesel motor he yanked out, didn't know nothing about working on them so he just pulled it and hauled it to the junkie. Boy did that make me sick. George
  6. Nice looking crawler. I bought one once with the distillate engine, only ran it on gasoline, but I will tell you, they have no power when running on gas, head compression is a lot lower on these. I ran it on gas because my intake manifold was totally rusted out and I had a gas crawler to use the manifold from. Be very, very, careful with that manifold, I understand they are about as scarce as hen's teeth. I have very little info on those engines, but you can get manuals for them from Binderbooks.com They are well worth the money, and even though they are reprints, they are a lot better than some of them out there. Of course, originals are the best, but they are probably on the same shelf with a new manifold. The only info I have on the starting lever is to set it at Hot for starting on gas, and then switch it to Cold to run on Kerosene. As far as the oil on the water pump, it looks like someone has over greased it and pushed grease out past the bushing and seal. One fitting is for the bearing and one is for the bushing the shaft runs thru. Can't remember which is which, but won't hurt to run it like that until you have time to take the pump off and go thru it. You are not losing oil. I wound up taking my engine apart and saving what I could for parts, but most of the top end was trash. Post your location in your profile, so people will know where you are, you could be down the road from me or across the world. George
  7. I'll attach a photo of the page in my service manual, covers both 6's and 9's. Read number 2 at the bottom left of the page. I have 3 covers off of TD9's and they all have extra threaded holes in the cover, located at 3, 7 and 11 o'clock. about 1 1/2 inches away from the bolt holes, You use the same bolts that you take out of the holes and thread them into the cover and tighten evenly and the cover will pop off. You will have to dig around as your photos shows that cover is really covered up in old oil and grease. You HAVE taken off the top cover, right? You will have to so you can get the two main shafts inside the transmission lined up when You put the front cover back on. Plus you will find a second bearing on the input shaft, inside the cover. George
  8. You should not see the top fins in the radiator. Like thebunns said, find out why before using it for extended periods of time. Also make sure the fan belt from the crank to the water pump is in good condition and tightened correctly. Even just a little too loose will cause it to slip and overheat. George
  9. Did you have the radiator full, full, full, all the way to the top. That will cause it to overflow after getting warmed up to temp. There is a plate inside the top tank, down about an inch below the filler neck with a hole in it, don't fill over that plate or they will flow over every time. George
  10. Wix has a good searchable site for filters, my book says that the TD6-62 series uses the two 3080 filters. The other are for the TD -6. I bought my manuals from Binder Books and the engine and chassis manuals are separate. I just looked at their site and it looks like they have been taken over by someone else now, but I still think you have to buy them separate. Some people have bought from Jensales, but I have heard the quality is not as good. Not sure on the negative ground, but I think they went from positive ground to negative ground at the 61 or 62 series. George
  11. Before you blow it out, make sure someone hasn't gone under the tank and capped it off. Both of my crawlers have a short piece of tubing, 6 inches or so long hooked onto the bottom of the tank and bent over toward the frame. It is not only a vent, but an overflow. George
  12. What? No chains on the Clark forklift? Is that an upcoming project? Looks like that one has pneumatic tires on it, not hard rubber. George
  13. Here is a photo of the slot between the two compartments, taken from the bevel gear side back towards the transmission. Slot is taller than I thought it was this morning. George
  14. Stupid me, I was relying on my memory again and it has failed me. What I said about the trans gear oil having to drain back thru the bearing was wrong. I just walked out and looked at the case I have in the scrap pile and there is a horizontal slot in the case wall between the trans and bevel compartment, about a half inch high, 1 1/2 inches long to drain the oil thru. I would still be slow draining that paste you have thru there but it would eventually. I think that casting boss could be drilled for a drain hole, but I can't see a benefit to do it. Either hole will drain both compartments. I did not measure for it, but I think that boss is under the very rear of the trans compartment. George
  15. Like you said, the diesel will run out where the drive shafts go from the bevel gear into the steering clutches. The covers have seals for the shafts and gaskets where the covers bolt to the housing. I think the big round "plug" on the bottom is just part of the steel casting process that was left over from manufacturing. I have 5 main frames and they all have it, but I see no use for it. George
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