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About trucker1

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    Southern Maine, USA
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    Truckin' fool from the old school

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  1. trucker1

    Question about a Carco Model E winch

    Thanks Redwood. I put it back together the way it came apart, I know it was working fine that way. It is outside now under the snow, needed the room in to shop to work on a TD91 engine. Maybe next spring I will bring it back inside the shop and pull the cover off and check it out again. George
  2. The knob by the choke, should have a "P" on it, stands for primer, I believe, but actually just control a needle in the carb, used to give you a "little" more gas when starting. The first carbs did not have one so you had to throttle the choke to keep it running until it warmed up a little. It will only open one turn, but on both of my crawlers, I pull the choke out all the way and then open the primer about a quarter turn. When it first "pops" on gas, push the choke all the way in and then you can adjust the "P" knob to keep it running. Watch the exhaust, black smoke is too much gas so turn it in. And on the diesel side, make sure the fuel shut off under the tank was turned on. They will run on diesel for 3 to 5 minutes until what is in the lines us used up. Don't ask how I know. And ST-470 is right, get an operators manual first, it will explain how to prime the diesel system and clean and change the filters. You can get the from Binderbooks. George,
  3. trucker1

    Question about a Carco Model E winch

    Thanks for the link Redwood. Probably going to pass on it. I am not going to be opening up the gear side. I did take the flat cover off the top in front of the spool and looked down inside. Everything looked good and I know the winch works. I bought the dozer awhile back because I was looking for a motor, and this one had been rebuilt. But the under carriage was about junk, and a lot of the repairs that had been done here and there were not up to snuff. Pulled the motor out and put it in my TD91, pulled the winch off the back and set it on the ground. I had spooled it in and out and checked the gear oil in it when the motor was still in it, but it didn't have any cable on it when I bought it so I couldn't put a pull on it. I decided a good winter project would be to go thru the brake linkage on the winch, and clean everything up. Found a lot of dirt and mud in around the brake linkage, and the mice had built a heck of a next inside the drum. Probably put it up for sale when I am done as I already have an Issacson winch on my TD91. it has been a good learning experience as I have never done any work on one before. George
  4. trucker1

    Question about a Carco Model E winch

    Mine had a big flat washer on the bottom of the housing then a lock washer and the two nuts. The big washer completely covered the square piece, and I didn't even know it was there until I started to push the threaded rod up thru the hole and it started to jiggle around. It has to be some sort of alignment spacer to keep the rod lined up in the middle of the big square hole. I have no idea why it would have the lug with the 3/4 inch hole in it. It was not hooked to anything when I took it out. probably going to put it back in the same way. Thanks George
  5. Is there anyone out there in IH land who has been inside these or has a parts breakdown that can help me out. I have a Carco Model E winch that I took off a TD9 that is scrapped out. I am rebuilding the linkage and found a piece that was not attached to anything. It is the square piece that goes thru the square hole in the bottom of the housing, and the threaded adjusting rod goes thru the middle of it with the two nuts on the bottom. The loop on the top, looks like it is for a 3/4 inch pin, is not attached to anything. Loop is to the inside towards the housing. It doesn't line up with any other holes anywhere. Was it meant to be just a square spacer and not hooked to anything? Thanks George
  6. trucker1

    TD91 pistons

    I found an answer to my question this morning. I went back and re-read my engine service manual. Right there on Page one, under general description of the diesel engine, paragraph 4 it says, "The aluminum alloy, tin plated, solid-skirt pistons are cam ground, and fitted with three compression and two oil control rings. The full-floating type piston pins are held in place by snap rings at each end of the pin." As the old saying says, If all else fails, look in the book! At least now I know that IH fitted all of their 6 and 9 series diesel engines with aluminum pistons. George
  7. trucker1

    TD91 pistons

    I would not call that top ring a 2 part compression ring. I did dig out one of the steel shims in that top groove this afternoon. Definitely spring steel, .020 thick and about 1/4 inch wide. Out of the groove, the ends overlap by about 1/4 inch but in the groove there is about a 1/8 inch end gap, so it springs IN to grip the piston, and has it's own groove at the top of the top groove so it will stay in place. I still think it is a buffer so the hard top ring isn't pounding directly against the aluminum piston on the down stroke. I had washed and cleaned the carbon out of two pistons and didn't even realize the top groove has that top shim. Found it on the 3rd piston I was doing and on the 4th. And none of my pistons were IH branded. All 4 the same, just said Alcoa inside. I think when this engine was rebuilt before I bought the tractor, they used an aftermarket piston. Everything else has IH numbers and the bearing shells are marked as standard on the backs. And on the oil rings, my parts book just called for one piece oil ring above and below the pin. Then I realized my parts book is for the TD9 engine and the TD91 used the larger 350 engine with 4 1/2 inch pistons. so lots of upgrades. 3 or 4 part oil rings and aluminum pistons had to be some of them. George
  8. trucker1

    TD91 pistons

    Thanks Redwood. I have another TD91 that I use, but never been inside that engine so no idea what it has. Further checking this morning and I found the second compression ring has a lot of side clearance in the groove, .040 thousands. Book calls for .004. Third ring was OK as were the oil rings. Top rings on all 4 pistons were all broken up into small pieces, maybe a half inch long, but from what I could measure the top rings had .030 clearance. Plus the top groove has a steel spacer ring, about .020 thick above the compression ring, but fits in a deeper groove cut in the piston so it doesn't stick out like the compression ring. I thought it was put in there to keep the heat from the dome getting down to the compression ring. I had overheated this engine years ago, started it in the winter to move the crawler 50 feet, no water in it. Stupid move. When I saw the broken top rings when I pulled the pistons, I thought it was from the overheating. But now I think with the excessive clearance the rings put in there were wrong and the top rings had pounded themselves to death. Also, was your top oil ring a one piece like the bottom oil ring? Mine is a 4 piece ring, 2 steel top and bottom, the regular oil ring in the middle and an expander ring behind that. Even if the top rings were broken, this engine always ran great before I screwed it up.. When I bought it from the dealer, I talked to one of the mechanics who had use the machine at his house to dig a foundation hole, and he told me he thought the engine had been rebuilt before it was traded in. Engine was painted a dark metallic green. George
  9. trucker1

    TD91 pistons

    I have a question for someone who may have worked on these engines before. Did IH use aluminum pistons in their TD91 engines? I decided a good project for this winter was to go thru all of the parts I have and clean, recondition and catalog what I have. These pistons came out of a TD91 350 engine that was running, but overheated and ruined the head. They have been in my shop for around 30 years, and I never realized until I washed them up that they are aluminum. I have pistons out of two T9 engines and they are all steel, with IH numbers inside them. I can find no IH numbers on these and the only marking are inside and say Alcoa and 1743. I assume they are an aftermarket piston. They do not look like any of the piston photos that are in my service manuals. They do have the dish in the head, but the rings that are in the are a little strange too. Thanks, George
  10. Hey Dizzel, let us know where you are located, post it in your member profile. You could be my neighbor down the street or around the world somewhere. Your location helps us with recommending places to get parts, or a member could be close enough to give you a hand. The serial number for that crawler will help us tell you what year it was made, but from what I see it is around early 50s. The serial number is on a plate riveted to the firewall, down by your left foot where the brake pedal is. It is probably gone as I don't see it in the photos. I don't want to add fuel to the fire, but that machine needs a LOT of work for a first time dozer. I see the flywheel and clutch laying on the track, I see no clutch disk. And make sure you find the left fender, it has been taken off. You can see where it was, yellow paint and brown primer paint. ALL of the control levers for the winch will be mounted on it. I agree with the blade being too light for any dozer work. I think it was supposed to be for plowing snow only. The hydraulic pump for it is on the engine behind the distributor, a dozer would have it mounted in front of the radiator and driven off the front of the crankshaft. And your tracks with the holes are for snow, and I "think" I can see cut away sprockets which would be for snow too. Good luck with it if you do drag it home. George
  11. trucker1

    TD 6 compression release lever

    Just to add on a little, I dug out one of spare clutches and looked at it and there is a ridge on the inside that centers it on the flywheel before it is bolted on. 3/16 high, so the clutch has to be pried back off the flywheel before lifting the assembly out. My clutches are off T9s and TD9s but a 6 would be the same, just a little smaller. I am sure the mouse crap is holding it on. George
  12. trucker1

    TD 6 compression release lever

    Service manual says there are 6 bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel, so I think you have all of those out. But you have to have the clutch engaged, like the handle was pulled back. That gives you the extra room to get the assembly out. Don't feel bad if you didn't do it, most people don't realize it and play with them for a couple of days before someone tells them. Get a couple pry bars and pry between the ears of the coupling and it should snap in, but be careful to NOT snap off the ears. Or put the bolts back in and pry between the coupling and the throw out bearing. Only snaps ahead about 1/4 inch, but the whole assembly will come out then. Clutch is probably just rusted to the flywheel too. George
  13. trucker1

    TD6 Clutch replacement

    I have done them on 9s, so I think a 6 would be the same. Clutch and pressure plate will come out the top, but the flywheel will not unless you grind some access notches in the chassis housing. Myself, I would opt to take the engine out, a lot easier to get the flywheel off. The ring gear can be taken off the flywheel and turned around. AND you can change out the rear main seal at the same time. They are prone to leaking when they get old. If you do take the engine out, get a chassis service manual if you do not have one now. And before you can pull the engine forward, you have to drop the big spring or cross over bar from the bottom of the flywheel housing, so you can jack the main frame up and the adapter plate on the back of the engine will clear it. George
  14. trucker1

    Oil Filter Conversion

    My old wix catalog lists 2 different filters, for the TD14A with a D461 engine. Serial numbers 33815 to 38237 uses Wix 51146. Serial numbers 38238 to 39300 use Wix 51149. It does not list the IH filter you were trying to cross over. Hope this helps. George
  15. trucker1

    TD-6 61 series details

    Engine service manual says the 281 was used from chassis number 39974 up. George