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About trucker1

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  • Location
    Southern Maine, USA
  • Interests
    Truckin' fool from the old school

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  1. I remembered after I wrote that this morning that all of these starters are off T9s and TD9s. Don't know if that makes a difference, but did not see in the parts manual a listing for the number of teeth required. George
  2. Hey Pbach, I looked at the 3 or 4 starters I have on the shelf, one of which is the same as you have, same number on the armature, same style of Bendix drive. ALL of the Bendix drives have the same wear pattern on them, looks like they only go about half way in. And the drive I have that is the same as the one you are replacing only has 10 teeth on it, counted them 3 times. George
  3. After you pop the transmission cover off, look for worn teeth of course. Do you have 1 speed reverse or two? Also flip the cover over and take the shift rails off and look for broken springs on the detents for the shift rails. George
  4. The photo with the serial number 6K3 is for the Drott loader only. The ID plate for the crawler will be on the dash, down by your left foot. hard to see unless you are good at standing on your head. Strange looking spring on the front idler, and yes, the original owner has replaced the track pads. Those are dozer pads, crawler loader pads would have 2 cleats on each one that would not have been that tall. A lot of people put the dozer pads on for better traction. Those cleats look almost new, quick look at the chains and sprockets show they appear to be at least half worn out. George
  5. The service manual doesn't say anything about when installing it, but when you take it out, the clutch must be engaged to remove it as an assembly, as in the lever has to be pulled back like you were moving the crawler. It has been a long time since I put one back in, but I think you have to put the clutch in an engaged position before putting it down in the hole. Push the 3 fingers down until they snap over center, and put the pressure plate, driven disk together with the shaft and lower them all down into the hole at the same time. By engaging the clutch it gives you an extra half inch or so of room down in there. George
  6. Thanks Redwood. I put it back together the way it came apart, I know it was working fine that way. It is outside now under the snow, needed the room in to shop to work on a TD91 engine. Maybe next spring I will bring it back inside the shop and pull the cover off and check it out again. George
  7. The knob by the choke, should have a "P" on it, stands for primer, I believe, but actually just control a needle in the carb, used to give you a "little" more gas when starting. The first carbs did not have one so you had to throttle the choke to keep it running until it warmed up a little. It will only open one turn, but on both of my crawlers, I pull the choke out all the way and then open the primer about a quarter turn. When it first "pops" on gas, push the choke all the way in and then you can adjust the "P" knob to keep it running. Watch the exhaust, black smoke is too much gas so turn it in. And on the diesel side, make sure the fuel shut off under the tank was turned on. They will run on diesel for 3 to 5 minutes until what is in the lines us used up. Don't ask how I know. And ST-470 is right, get an operators manual first, it will explain how to prime the diesel system and clean and change the filters. You can get the from Binderbooks. George,
  8. Thanks for the link Redwood. Probably going to pass on it. I am not going to be opening up the gear side. I did take the flat cover off the top in front of the spool and looked down inside. Everything looked good and I know the winch works. I bought the dozer awhile back because I was looking for a motor, and this one had been rebuilt. But the under carriage was about junk, and a lot of the repairs that had been done here and there were not up to snuff. Pulled the motor out and put it in my TD91, pulled the winch off the back and set it on the ground. I had spooled it in and out and checked the gear oil in it when the motor was still in it, but it didn't have any cable on it when I bought it so I couldn't put a pull on it. I decided a good winter project would be to go thru the brake linkage on the winch, and clean everything up. Found a lot of dirt and mud in around the brake linkage, and the mice had built a heck of a next inside the drum. Probably put it up for sale when I am done as I already have an Issacson winch on my TD91. it has been a good learning experience as I have never done any work on one before. George
  9. Mine had a big flat washer on the bottom of the housing then a lock washer and the two nuts. The big washer completely covered the square piece, and I didn't even know it was there until I started to push the threaded rod up thru the hole and it started to jiggle around. It has to be some sort of alignment spacer to keep the rod lined up in the middle of the big square hole. I have no idea why it would have the lug with the 3/4 inch hole in it. It was not hooked to anything when I took it out. probably going to put it back in the same way. Thanks George
  10. Is there anyone out there in IH land who has been inside these or has a parts breakdown that can help me out. I have a Carco Model E winch that I took off a TD9 that is scrapped out. I am rebuilding the linkage and found a piece that was not attached to anything. It is the square piece that goes thru the square hole in the bottom of the housing, and the threaded adjusting rod goes thru the middle of it with the two nuts on the bottom. The loop on the top, looks like it is for a 3/4 inch pin, is not attached to anything. Loop is to the inside towards the housing. It doesn't line up with any other holes anywhere. Was it meant to be just a square spacer and not hooked to anything? Thanks George
  11. I found an answer to my question this morning. I went back and re-read my engine service manual. Right there on Page one, under general description of the diesel engine, paragraph 4 it says, "The aluminum alloy, tin plated, solid-skirt pistons are cam ground, and fitted with three compression and two oil control rings. The full-floating type piston pins are held in place by snap rings at each end of the pin." As the old saying says, If all else fails, look in the book! At least now I know that IH fitted all of their 6 and 9 series diesel engines with aluminum pistons. George
  12. I would not call that top ring a 2 part compression ring. I did dig out one of the steel shims in that top groove this afternoon. Definitely spring steel, .020 thick and about 1/4 inch wide. Out of the groove, the ends overlap by about 1/4 inch but in the groove there is about a 1/8 inch end gap, so it springs IN to grip the piston, and has it's own groove at the top of the top groove so it will stay in place. I still think it is a buffer so the hard top ring isn't pounding directly against the aluminum piston on the down stroke. I had washed and cleaned the carbon out of two pistons and didn't even realize the top groove has that top shim. Found it on the 3rd piston I was doing and on the 4th. And none of my pistons were IH branded. All 4 the same, just said Alcoa inside. I think when this engine was rebuilt before I bought the tractor, they used an aftermarket piston. Everything else has IH numbers and the bearing shells are marked as standard on the backs. And on the oil rings, my parts book just called for one piece oil ring above and below the pin. Then I realized my parts book is for the TD9 engine and the TD91 used the larger 350 engine with 4 1/2 inch pistons. so lots of upgrades. 3 or 4 part oil rings and aluminum pistons had to be some of them. George
  13. Thanks Redwood. I have another TD91 that I use, but never been inside that engine so no idea what it has. Further checking this morning and I found the second compression ring has a lot of side clearance in the groove, .040 thousands. Book calls for .004. Third ring was OK as were the oil rings. Top rings on all 4 pistons were all broken up into small pieces, maybe a half inch long, but from what I could measure the top rings had .030 clearance. Plus the top groove has a steel spacer ring, about .020 thick above the compression ring, but fits in a deeper groove cut in the piston so it doesn't stick out like the compression ring. I thought it was put in there to keep the heat from the dome getting down to the compression ring. I had overheated this engine years ago, started it in the winter to move the crawler 50 feet, no water in it. Stupid move. When I saw the broken top rings when I pulled the pistons, I thought it was from the overheating. But now I think with the excessive clearance the rings put in there were wrong and the top rings had pounded themselves to death. Also, was your top oil ring a one piece like the bottom oil ring? Mine is a 4 piece ring, 2 steel top and bottom, the regular oil ring in the middle and an expander ring behind that. Even if the top rings were broken, this engine always ran great before I screwed it up.. When I bought it from the dealer, I talked to one of the mechanics who had use the machine at his house to dig a foundation hole, and he told me he thought the engine had been rebuilt before it was traded in. Engine was painted a dark metallic green. George
  14. I have a question for someone who may have worked on these engines before. Did IH use aluminum pistons in their TD91 engines? I decided a good project for this winter was to go thru all of the parts I have and clean, recondition and catalog what I have. These pistons came out of a TD91 350 engine that was running, but overheated and ruined the head. They have been in my shop for around 30 years, and I never realized until I washed them up that they are aluminum. I have pistons out of two T9 engines and they are all steel, with IH numbers inside them. I can find no IH numbers on these and the only marking are inside and say Alcoa and 1743. I assume they are an aftermarket piston. They do not look like any of the piston photos that are in my service manuals. They do have the dish in the head, but the rings that are in the are a little strange too. Thanks, George
  15. Hey Dizzel, let us know where you are located, post it in your member profile. You could be my neighbor down the street or around the world somewhere. Your location helps us with recommending places to get parts, or a member could be close enough to give you a hand. The serial number for that crawler will help us tell you what year it was made, but from what I see it is around early 50s. The serial number is on a plate riveted to the firewall, down by your left foot where the brake pedal is. It is probably gone as I don't see it in the photos. I don't want to add fuel to the fire, but that machine needs a LOT of work for a first time dozer. I see the flywheel and clutch laying on the track, I see no clutch disk. And make sure you find the left fender, it has been taken off. You can see where it was, yellow paint and brown primer paint. ALL of the control levers for the winch will be mounted on it. I agree with the blade being too light for any dozer work. I think it was supposed to be for plowing snow only. The hydraulic pump for it is on the engine behind the distributor, a dozer would have it mounted in front of the radiator and driven off the front of the crankshaft. And your tracks with the holes are for snow, and I "think" I can see cut away sprockets which would be for snow too. Good luck with it if you do drag it home. George
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