trucker1

I agree with Rawleigh99, I too have been using Discount Hydraulic hose for over 10 years. Great price and selection, but I buy mostly bulk hose and reusable fittings. I was having trouble with quick disconnects that I was buying from Tractor Supply and local automotive places, but the ones from Discount Hydraulic have given me no trouble at all. George

I did a search thru my "stuff" and came up with a seal number, 266594R91 but I take no responsibility for the accuracy or if this is the right part. What I did find was this was info i saved from 20 years ago, 2006! I did a search on Redpower for it and came up with nothing, but a google search came up with quite a bit of info and places to buy it, plus links to the old Redpower websites and articles. . I was having trouble with diesel getting from the transfer pump into the injection pump oil, never replaced the seal, but I shut off the diesel tank every time if the machine will sit for more than an hour. Just gotta remember to turn it back on before starting. Believe me, I know. George

Timing is pretty simple. pull the front cover off and rotate the engine around until the timing marks line up before removing. But if you drained and refilled the pump with motor oil and it is leaking again, it is the seal in the rear fuel section of the pump letting diesel to mix with the motor oil. there have been discussions before about fixing that leak, and the seal is very hard to find. Do you shut the fuel off under the tank at the end of the day? It is one way to eliminate or slow down the diesel fuel bypassing that seal. they seem to leak by worse when just sitting and not so much when running. George

IHC_1470 is correct, you should wire thru your switch to the meter. The way you have it now, the meter is live all of the time and "may" drain your battery over time, as in a month or two. The reading of 14.5 is what your alternator is putting out, shut the engine down and the 12 is what your battery is reading without the charge going into it. Leaving the ignition switch on when running on diesel will not hurt anything as the switch in the end of the manifold has already cut off power to your coil, so it will just have power going thru the gauge. George

Good to hear you got it going and glad I could help. Don't ask me how I learned about the "flipper thingy" the hard way. It was around 30 years ago, on a TD91 that I had bought. Trans gears were out of it, and I bet I cranked on it for a week before I figured it out. This was before the internet (for me) and the wealth of help and knowledge that is on here now. And thanks for getting back to us and letting us all know that it has worked out for you. George

Before you start trying to make adjustments to the linkage, reach in behind the manifold, over the top, and pull UP on the forked shaped piece metal, that everyone calls the "flipper thingy". It might move up1/4 inch. The linkage pushes it up when you put the lever in gas mode, and then the spring in the end of the manifold takes over and pulls the flappers inside the manifold fully closed. When the shaft gets sticky from non-use, the flappers do not fully close the diesel side, so it still sucks air thru that side and will not suck enough air thru the gas side to pull gas out of the carb. That is proved already when you said it will start and run on ether. And yes, your machine should be positive ground. The starter and ignition don't care which way is which, but your generator won't work right unless it is hooked up correctly. George

Wix has an excellent searchable database online for filters, and they should all be available. But they had a bunch of serial number breaks for the 25C, so you have to have your serial number available to get the right ones. Plus most Wix filters will cross over to NAPA filters by changing the first number I think. George

21134 is the right seal#, I bought them from NAPA with both NAPA and SKF on the box, so check for an SKF cross number and you should find something. Hard to believe that NAPA doesn't have one. George

That number, 8124-DM is not your serial number, it is the part number for the engine block, and the other numbers after it are the date codes for when the block was cast. Look up above that cover with the 8 bolts and you will see the engine serial number stamped into the side of the block, just below the head gasket. The number there will NOT be the serial number of the chassis, as IH never tried to match the number on the engine installed with the chassis number. Hope this helps. George

I think mmi is correct about the hole in the block butterfly water drain fitting. Should be threaded hole, looks like 3/8 pipe thread, and here is what the butterfly fitting looks like. George

Pukeko is right, they change from Positive ground to Negative ground when they stopped using Generators. And others are right, you can flash the regulator and run them either way. But if it was mine, I would put the battery in Positive ground, it was probably running just fine like that when parked, so why mess with it now. Get it running and then if you want to change it later, you can. IH said to reflash whenever you took a battery out or put a new one in, but I never have had to, plus there are I think 2 different ways to do it de-pending on what regulator you have. George

Nice catch jeeper61. I had looked closely at the photo and saw that two of the tractors had cabs and ice cleated tracks for plowing snow, but did not notice that they both had town names on the doors. I guess I was too busy looking at the mechanic with the bow tie! Well, I don't think he is wearing one, but the shadow on his collar made me think he was at first. From the info I have seen, Maine Truck Tractor started in 1933, probably about the time this photo was taken. Notice that the sign only says McCormick-Deering Trac-Tractor, so no International Harvester yet. but they moved to the other location in 1936 and the sign in the photo that Hardtail posted with the Adams grader had the International Trac-Tractor on the sign there. George

Hope this works, this is a pic of their first location, before they moved to the location on Veranda St that hardtail posted. George

Hey, Hardtail, I know exactly where that business was! Before my time though. Portland ME, their historical archives says that picture was from right around 1936. Building is still there, but offices now. It is right around the corner from where my ex-brother in law lives, and no, I have not driven by it for over 10 years. I love the trolley tracks in the street, which looks like cobblestone. George

Louie is correct, you can use a longer lead and just coil it up. I have one TD91 with a coiled up lead, and one with the correct length lead, but don't know what that is. But I think the 16 inch will be more than long enough. George

I worked for a grocery warehouse out of Portland that supplied the IGA stores. Trips past that construction site took me to Randolf, across the river from Gardiner, Winslow, Skowhegan, and west to Farmington and Rumford. George

TD15, Gardiner Maine in 1974! I bet I drove by the machine a couple dozen times that year. From the looks of the photo, he was pushing gravel into the water when they were building the bridge over the Cobbosseecontee Stream, just before the toll booths. I was hauling 40 K of groceries to the north from Portland with a single axle 63 IH R190 with a 467? gas engine in it. That i where I learned to drive with my right foot on the floor all of the time. I was 23, just gotten married and thought I was the king of the road. Good memories. George