Qball
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About Qball
- Birthday April 25
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BC
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Old iron, old british motorcycles and country living
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I dove in today….not the best time i ever had. It was a greasy mess. Trying to get it apart was a bit of a pain. To get the clutch rod out i had to pull part of the dozer support off. I found a shop manual online on how to do it. The manual makes it sound way easier than it was. Not that the steps were hard just worn out bolts and rods. I could see it being easier 50 years ago before the clutch engagement rod was smashed up and mushroomed on the end. My problem now is while the clutch isnt in terrible shape, since i am in this deep i want to replace the clutch. I cant seem to find one online, its a 13”. Would the one on ebay fit? Slightly different but dimensions appear right.
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Oh and forgot to mention. I used to run my old ford f350 on straight used veggie oil for years. I had a centrifuge and filter setup etc. I got rid of that truck about a year and a half ago but still have a few 45 gallon drums. I decided to try it in the dozer to save a few bucks on fuel......I cut it about 5% with gasoline just so it isnt as thick and verdict was valves and engine run a fair bit quieter (higher lubricity) no noticeable change in power, slightly lower fuel consumption, and only a very slight amount of smoke out the exhaust. will continue to use it all up. I used to get it from the local Dairy Queen as it was the best and cleanest source near me. they were happy for me to just haul it away. I used to run it in my old fords tractor but as that was getting pretty warn out it was a smoke show and didn't like to start on the veggie so I stopped. I sold my filter set up with the old truck but anyone that is using their machinery a fair bit (I am not once this job is done) could save significantly. This works best on old iron and definitely has to be pre emissions and DEF setups! Words of advice if you try this.....make sure it is well filtered, and dont leave it in the tank if you plan on using your machine in the winter! below -15C it becomes too thick to go through the filters easily! Ask me how I found that out.... the bloody hard way.
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thanks Hardtail and everyone else! I got the bulk of the "mandatory" work I needed to do on the property with the dozer today I might rename it the SS Valdez. Tomorrow after work she is getting parked beside the shop and some internal surgery will follow. I managed to get the transmission book for my machine but for service of the front seal it has me pulling the tank, seat and half the damn machine apart. Looking on the forum here it looks as though it can be attacked from the top inspection plate? If so does anyone know if the clutch has to come out? and if so can I do it from the top? or do I need to break the engine and transmission? The past owner has welded both the engine and transmission to the frame, so I am praying a bunch of grinding and die grinding the crappy farmer welds off is not in my future. even greased up with oil and grease pissing into the bell housing the clutch only started slightly slipping at the end of today. Hoping some brake clean on the clutch and a new seal will have her good (ish) as new lol. she is loud and rattles like **** but can't believe how much dirt it has moved over the last year! saved me a fortune compared to getting someone in! was well worth the headaches and pittance I paid for it. they just dont build them like this anymore. really appreciate all the help boys! thanks so much. It helps keep me motivated and not get discouraged.
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So i did plug that hole (#2). am unsure if that was leaking as well but will take that out and check if there is a leak there but there probably is, i just assumed it needed a bolt. there was a modge podge of support plates welded on the bottom where the draw bar connection was and that covered that hole. i rebuilt the support plate properly but the bolts were in various states of leaking. the other hole i was referring to earlier was on the front plate and appears to be a mounting bolt that was snapped due to the spring hitting it. I also plugged that hole as it was covered in oil. It totally is looking like i gotta open her up and do major surgery. I am just hoping to limp it for the spring and maybe dig in late summer when I have time.
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I bought the vevor one and it worked fine for my old TD9 and for a tool you will likely only use once or twice ever.... price is pretty decent.
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So I dumped a 5 gallon pail of 00 semi fluid grease in. No detrimental effect and shifts great even at start up, even at only a few degrees above freezing . Still was oozing out but way slower. upside is with the slowed leak I found some haywire repairs that were done by past owners that were primary culprits! I have repaired and un-haywired most of it. the machine is getting better and better as I fix 70 years of farmer fixes. Does anyone have a schematic including the transmission casing? there are, and were multiple issues that I am having a hard time determining why they were done. some I am hesitant to un-do. BUT... the oil/grease now seems to leak out a port on the front end of the transmission. I need to climb in there today and see if it has threads but being a big 6'2" guy and it is in a tight space at front of gearbox where it meets the motor down by the springs between the track and it is not easy to get to. I am not sure if it is supposed to have a plug and or if it should even be wet? or if it is an inspection port of some sort. It would have to be a plug and not a bolt as it looks like the springs would shear it off if it were a bolt. I will get a picture later today.
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Where I am standing on the hill I used the old crawler to make a pad for our temporary home last year. And another acre up the hill to the main road we leveled and cleared the trees (kept the fir but knocked down most of the poplar) for some tent and camp sites for visitors. The grass area was a big gully i filled in last year and is now rv parking for family and friends. the lower area in dirt has just been levelled out and top soil re spread and the farthest area is my next project to level for the building site for our "forever home overlooking the lake. you can see the Neighbours place on the right side behind the dozer. I really can't complain when I live in paradise!
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2025/03/31 Sorry a day late and dollar short on replying to this but late fall I managed to jam an old creosote fir tie in where the roller used to be, snugged up the adjustments and has been working amazing! almost no wear on the tie after several weeks of use! I have only slipped a track one time since then! thanks on that tip!
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So my old 1956 TD9 transmission leaks....fairly bad like a gallon and half a day. I currently don't have time or facilities freed up to give the leak the attention it needs. as it would be a fairly deep dive as I have a laundry list of stuff needed to do to other equipment first then the old girl gets the attention to tidy it up. (mind you I did just get the seat re-apolstered) its the small things that make me happy In the meantime, I need to use the machine on the property for another few weeks before I can give it a break. My question for the collective brain trust on here is...... Can I use a 000 or 00 semi fluid grease in the transmission of the old girl? I know on my old BSA motorcycles, when the seals on the old pre-wet clutch transmission are all worn out or the casing no longer seals as it should, we can use a semi fluid synthetic grease and it works just fine with no ill effect. I am just curious if any one on here has done the same to get them though? The old girl is worn, sloppy and tired (im talking about the TD) but still fires right up and pushes dirt, trees and brush here on the property. I really can't complain much as I bought it for 2500$ canadian sunk 3500$ into and have used it steady for almost 3 years now. thoughts on the semi fluid grease?
