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234-IA

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Everything posted by 234-IA

  1. I don't think anyone is saying a red Case is a faultless tractor, just that some of the criticisms being made aren't 100% accurate themselves. All these mid-to-late 80s tractors are *old* and for the most part, aside from whatever color you bleed, it's going to come down to how they were used and maintained. I can sure see where a guy would be better off with a cared-for Case over a threshed-out IH or Deere...
  2. There's a lot to that- I can see where a 466 running long spells out on the road might actually have an easier life than a 466 doing stop and go work on a farm, for example- but wouldn't all the oil recommendations come out of the engine plant at Melrose Park?
  3. It isn't a matter of "hating" 30 weight. Going at it that way just overpersonalizes everything and makes people tune you out. Some of these guys only have one or two of these tractors and if they don't want to pay out the wazoo for a 5 gallon pail of 30wt or buy a drum that sits around forever before its used up how can you blame them? and the idea IH engineering had only one answer to this question hasn't held up. We learned a while back in one of these threads IH, toward the end, put out an engineering bulletin okaying multi-weight oils- and now, according to acem in *this* thread, IH spoke out of both sides of its mouth even earlier. It seems I could have bought a straight truck with a DT466 and a tractor with a DT436 on the same day and been told two different things by the company.
  4. My theory, and it's only a theory, is that the harder you intend to use the tractor the more important it is to closely follow manual specifications. Otherwise, most of these tractors see maybe a couple of hundred hours a year of fairly light use and a diesel-rated oil from a reputable company changed every 100 hours should serve you well. We used multi-weight oil for years and had no issues with smoking, oil consumption or engine/injector pump failure. I switched to using 30wt some years ago in part because of what long-time IH mechanics on here say and I also became suspicious of how well 15-40 was really suited for cold weather use. Everything kept running pretty much the way it always had. I believe the real Achilles' heel of the IH wet sleeve engines is not keeping up on cooling system maintenance- changing not just the coolant filter but the coolant itself. In my neighborhood I know of several relatively low houred, reasonably worked, tractors that were overhauled because the owners found antifreeze in the oil. I suspect a fair amount of what might be considered oil related engine failures can be traced back to the sleeve o-rings beginning to leak and the owners not catching on in time.
  5. Straight fenders and wide front, 38" x 3 1/4" wedgelock castings would probably get you to $2500, maybe more, without much trouble. I wouldn't have high hopes for the engine/fuel system but you never know, maybe with the right precautions and some luck it would be okay. Anyone have thoughts on the dozer?
  6. If memory serves the pulley is pressed on. The cracked frame worries me, that seems like a problem that will keep on reoccurring. You might be better off calling the salvage yards for a good used or even a reman wobble box (but a quick look at the caseIH parts site tells me a reman box is worth more than the whole head, probably- for mine it would be anyway).
  7. Very few 3pt rakes around here. I have what they call a "carted" H&S rake with the two stage lift (it first raises both wings together horizontally about a foot and a half, then starts lifting each wing individually to fully vertical). I hay on contour strips which tend to have a lot of weird point-row sections and a narrow front would be super-handy.
  8. Without knowing how your tire shop charges for services I'd guess the best place for you to save a few dollars is by following stronger800's advice and pulling the dual off before the service truck gets there. Roading it any significant distance is likely going to get that corrosive CaCl all over the tractor and possibly screw up the tire.
  9. Already have a 1256 and 826. Grew up on the old letter tractors and would like to have something along their lines that would be usable on a 10 wheel v-rake, but if the 00-50 hydraulics aren't up for even that there would be no point and then I fix up the M to just look at.
  10. Thanks everybody, sounds like this is more a pulling tractor than anything else. I would just want a more usable (hyd, PTO) version of the M that sits waiting for me to decide whether to put some time and money in it.
  11. I now and again window-shop for a 450 to play around with. There's one advertised sort-of-locally as having the "big motor 360". Can you modify the engine to get *that* much more displacement or is this out of something else, or is the seller stretching things a bit?
  12. Huh. $90.25 for the 1 1/8" x 79.4" bolt my 480 uses. Not so bad, it's been a few years but I thought they'd be way over $100 by now.
  13. Regarding battery life: I generally get about 7 years, give or take, out of them regardless of what they're in. Just took a 9 year old pair of 3EHs out of the 1256 because the seam between the top and the body of the case started to leak- but the tractor was starting fine. Sometimes less, usually when I've done something stupid like left the key on and drained them. I agree with the theory your wiring is probably OK but you had a weak alternator that could keep the new batteries charged enough to start the tractor, but not enough to satisfy the demand of the lights.
  14. Farmall Doctor and Dan R: many many thanks- you guys nailed it, I took the front cover off and sure enough there was no washer under the nut on the gear. I had the pump gone through 12 years ago but am pretty sure I didn't touch the drive end- it doesn't matter, no matter when the washer dropped it was incredibly lucky to not mess anything up on the way to the oil pan. I have one of those cheesy I&T manuals that calls for 55 foot/pounds torque on the nut. Question: should I re use the nut or get a new one? as an aside, I can kind of understand CNH making more and more and parts for these old dogs "NLA" but I have a hard time with how useless they've made the online parts site. It couldn't have cost them *that* much money to keep up the diagrams, etc. so you could see how things fit together. thanks again!
  15. Upon taking the drain plug out of the 1256 for a routine oil change the other day I noticed the flow looked restricted. I felt around with a finger and could tell there was a washer, so off came the pan. This is all I found- no bolts, no nuts. Everything I can see appears to be as it should be. OD approx 1 3/8, ID approx 5/8, thickness 1/8. There are a couple of more nicks similar to what you can see in the photo. Tractor's been running fine with no odd noises, etc. Part of me wants to chalk this up as "weird things that happened at the factory" but I ran this past someone who thinks it might be from the camshaft and the nut would be still up in the front cover somewhere. Thoughts?
  16. Never heard of them before- kinda looks like something Q would had set up for James Bond. Watching the video, it seems to handle a lot better than I expected- thought it would be jerky going through turns. I did notice they didn't have so much footage of it used as a boat- it looks slow and the operator would likely get soaked going through the deeper water. But still, a fun rig. Sympathies for the loss of your cousin.
  17. Even the Hereford is interested in a 1456. This one seems pretty stripped down in general, what with single hydraulics and no tilt wheel or hyd seat. I suppose going with an aftermarket cab from the jump meant a considerable price savings too.
  18. More scaremongering. The world pretty much runs on it these days and people who claim to be immune to scaremongering probably do the most to spread it.
  19. Solocam, hope this all works out for you and the tractor serves you well when you get it back. One thing: a lot of the guys offering advice aren't "book" smart, as you said in one post- they are "hands-on" smart. As usual there got to be some smart-a$$ comments that mostly just made things worse, but that's the internet for you
  20. There's also the possibility the pizza box has those instructions as a joke. I think the real problem is the addiction to outrage. People don't seem to think they're alive unless they're angry about something.
  21. Glad to hear he's well. He's a remarkably good communicator- as are you, and a lot of the other mechanics here. Not too many have been at it as long as he has though.
  22. A 480 with 9" spacing might cut pretty good. I know from personal experience a 480 with 7" spacing doesn't, so much, in anything but bean stubble. It does a good finishing job though.
  23. demand is up and OPEC production cuts finally having their desired effect. Free market at work
  24. In northeast Iowa/southwest Wisconsin/southeast Minnesota, subject to people closer knowing what's going on locally: standalone CaseIH at Dubuque IA and Altura MN standalone New Holland at Waukon/New Albin, Fort Atkinson and West Union IA, Spring Valley MN. Cashton WI was both C-IH and NH but I think they might be strictly NH now. standalone C-IH and NH at Caledonia MN only one standalone JD shop I am aware of, at Preston MN. Have been told the current owner will keep the contract until they retire then it is to be sold to the big southern MN JD chain dealer
  25. Good luck, because I think you're going to need it if you use the '70 for heavy work before you know exactly what's wrong with it. I know it seems like people are piling on but really I think everyone is trying to save you some money in the long run.
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