Roosamaster high idle

[756puller]

Got a 656 with roosa injection pump on it. Had the pump gone thru for the governor ring coming apart. Got pump back on, tractor runs good. Doesn't seem to be able to get up to the high idle it needs. Tach doesn't work so checking rpms on PTO with a spinning tack on there. I'm running around 500 rpm on the hand held tach. Tried playing with the throttle linkage and also the two screws on injection pump linkage. That didn't make any difference so set them back to where they were originally. Is there a bumper screw or something that is limiting my rpm on the pump?

[HydroTek]

RPM is the external stop screw on the lever -- disconnect the tractor linkage 

Be sure the kill lever is all the way forward -- should not affect speed until half way back 

Photo tack on the front pulley is what I use 

Idle is the small screw on the top cover 

[Injpumped]

What speed are you trying to achieve? A gear drive should hi idle about 2000, 623 pto rpm, a hydro is faster. Based on the speeds you mentioned, guessing it's gear drive as it's close. 

[756puller]

Yea it is a great drive, not really targeting any specific speed customer is just thinking it's not running fast enough. Usually when I get a rebuilt pump it's usually just install it and it's done

[Injpumped]

Rebuild shops are supposed to set high and low idle speeds, though slight adjustments can be made once re-installed, but rarely needed. As mentioned above, the best way is a photo tach on the front pulley. Too many variables to rely on the pto speed as an absolute accurate rpm source. Photo tachs can be bought about everywhere, and under $100. 

[756puller]

I probably should just go that route. It's not like I wouldn't have a lot of other uses for it

[756puller]

Got a photo tach gun and checked it, my high idle is 1600 rpm. Throttle clevis is already clear back in the threads and everything else seems like it's good and tight in the linkage with no play.

[snoshoe]

If linkage is pulling lever all the way to the stop screw with just a little over travel. That is all it has to do. If that much checks out. I wonder if governor sleeve got out of register with fork when you installed it.

[756puller]

Pump did come with the throttle lever wired back and I left it wired til I got the pump installed.

[Injpumped]

My bet is the throttle arm/shaft brazed joint broke, allowing lever to slip on the shaft. Doesn't happen a lot, but have seen it a few times. Low idle won't be affected due to this one having the low idle screw in the top cover. 

[HydroTek]

28 minutes ago, Injpumped said:

My bet is the throttle arm/shaft brazed joint broke, allowing lever to slip on the shaft. Doesn't happen a lot, but have seen it a few times. Low idle won't be affected due to this one having the low idle screw in the top cover. 

That one brazed -- or is it splined with a allen head ?

could be off one spline

Would have to see how much "slack" is in the lever before the engine came off idle 

Good part is -- the throttle shaft can be replaced with the pump on the tractor -- 10 minute job if one knows what they are doing 

[Injpumped]

The Stanadyne throttles are brazed on, never seen one splined like a bosch, but I've only worked on a few thousand lmao! The new ones are still brazed on, but at least they have a "D" shaped shaft, so it cannot slip. It's usually caused by people not correctly setting the throttle linkage at wide open, they put a lot of excess tension on the overtravel spring, and over time it can break the braze. It can be replaced on the tractor and speeds simply set with the photo tach. Easy to check, with cover off, the point on shaft should be aligned with the lever itself. Guessing the lever will be rearward of the pointed part of the shaft, thus not pushing fully on gov spring. 

[dale560]

4 hours ago, Injpumped said:

The Stanadyne throttles are brazed on, never seen one splined like a bosch, but I've only worked on a few thousand lmao! The new ones are still brazed on, but at least they have a "D" shaped shaft, so it cannot slip. It's usually caused by people not correctly setting the throttle linkage at wide open, they put a lot of excess tension on the overtravel spring, and over time it can break the braze. It can be replaced on the tractor and speeds simply set with the photo tach. Easy to check, with cover off, the point on shaft should be aligned with the lever itself. Guessing the lever will be rearward of the pointed part of the shaft, thus not pushing fully on gov spring. 

Learn a lot every time you post something. Never seen one of them break. We used to have a weird thing on the Chevy 6.2 db pumps where the guide pin would bend or scuff and you would get a sticky part in your throttle.

[756puller]

Did get a photo tac into the tractor. Engine speed at high idle is 1650. Tried playing with the throttle linkage and gonna say I've got it as shortened as I can so the throttle still shuts it off. Don't really know if I'm looking at some internal pump adjustment or not.

[HydroTek]

Disconnect the tractor linkage and check the speeds using the pump lever only 

2300 on my Hydro 

This a Farmall model ? -- my Hydro I-656 has a kill cable (I changed it to electric shut off)

Still the tractor linkage probably has  a lot of slack in it 
-- throttle lever popped out of the lower bracket ?

Your engine idle at the correct speed ?

The lever distance between idle and kill is about one inch forward
Moving the lever rearward from idle should be no more than 1/4" until the engine speeds up 
then full speed is against the stop on the pump lever

 

[756puller]

I did check my speed with lever unhooked from throttle linkage, around 700 idle could get around 2000 high idle. Didn't check to see if the linkage was in the support behind fuel filters. This one should be a Farmall.