Aquired 1953 IH TD-14A Dozer

[MrMarty51]

The idea of an engine block heater was in case I would like to fire up the dozer when the temps is zero degrees F or colder.

mainly for moving snow out if my sons driveway trail.

then I could plug in the soft plug heater an hour or two before going out in it, or the son taking it out.

[stronger800]

Soft plug is a block heater right? And a tank heater is a block heater. But 2-3x more powerful.  Just needs two ports plumbed in, instead of one.  Which is easier for you to install?  Are there pipe threads that look like they’ll come out? I use tank heaters on our tractors. 

[hardtail]

I have both kinds one on an 18 that is a car type and a recirc type was on the 14 and have on a Massey, works good, a preheat to help the preheat -33 here this morning 

[MrMarty51]

19 hours ago, stronger800 said:

Soft plug is a block heater right? And a tank heater is a block heater. But 2-3x more powerful.  Just needs two ports plumbed in, instead of one.  Which is easier for you to install?  Are there pipe threads that look like they’ll come out? I use tank heaters on our tractors. 

Thank You very much for Your replies.

I’m not doing much outside with these much colder temperatures, so mainly house bound.

I did go out this morning, near zero*F and took a glance at both sides of the engine.

You are correct. There are a couple of soft plugs into the block. I really dont like messing with those much unless its on an engine rebuild.

Also there is a threaded drain port in the lower back portion of the block. Appears to be about a 1/2” NPT thread.

Also on the lower portion of the thermostat housing there is another threaded port, also appears to be about a 1/2” NPT.

That I think would be about perfect for a recirculation type tank heater and so it shall be.  
Now thinking about it, I did not check the upper thermostat housing to see if there is an outlet up that high.

If so that might be a better port and would keep the warmest of the coolant circulating through the head too.

I think it would work good like that. Thermostat I dont think would block the flow.

[MrMarty51]

19 hours ago, hardtail said:

I have both kinds one on an 18 that is a car type and a recirc type was on the 14 and have on a Massey, works good, a preheat to help the preheat -33 here this morning 

That I believe would be a much kinder method to an old engine such as these.

The dozer will be going to my sons off grid cabin but he has a nice generator that He always hauls over. Then if the snow gets too bad on the trail from the lake to the cabin then He can warm the dozer engine before He fires it up.

We use four wheelers to criss on the ice.

I have a 2000 Chevy K3500 CC single rear wheel pickup with a 6.5 diesel.

as soon as the temps gets into the low 40s I plug in the block heater.

Just installed a brand new GEP Optimizer long block and I’ll take all steps necessary fir longevity on this engine.

I have the old engine hanging on the stand. At 299,000 it was becoming a little tired.

Original GM engine that the GM engineers had cut a lot of corners on those blocks and heads. Cut back on the nickel content and caused the blocks and heads ti become prone to cracking. The block is okay but both heads is cracked between the valve seats.

Near as much to OH this block and buy new heads as the new GEP engine.

GEP is building these engine right. 

[hardtail]

2 hours ago, MrMarty51 said:

 

That I think would be about perfect for a recirculation type tank heater and so it shall be.  
Now thinking about it, I did not check the upper thermostat housing to see if there is an outlet up that high.

If so that might be a better port and would keep the warmest of the coolant circulating through the head too.

 

I think the recirculation type on the 14A came off a portion on the head, there were many changes to 14 head designs over the years and that one was a jethead so no guarantee yours is the same. I'll see if I have any pic somewhere.

Not the best pic but I remember the top hose running back to the firewall now

 

[stronger800]

A tank heater that has the upper hose going into the head is ideal. But really any place that has one hose located anywhere above the other, will work. I used to have 2500w heaters, make a 0° engine toasty warm in about 20 minutes. It’s hard to find one much over 1500w now, but those Work very well as well. Especially Considering you can buy them for $40 anywhere.

[766 Man]

2 hours ago, stronger800 said:

A tank heater that has the upper hose going into the head is ideal. But really any place that has one hose located anywhere above the other, will work. I used to have 2500w heaters, make a 0° engine toasty warm in about 20 minutes. It’s hard to find one much over 1500w now, but those Work very well as well. Especially Considering you can buy them for $40 anywhere.

  Hard to find 1500W without going to a truck shop and even there it is not a sure thing.  Good thing most of my equipment has a direct block heater but even there I noticed the wattage has decreased.  

[Powered by IH]

6 hours ago, MrMarty51 said:

You are correct. There are a couple of soft plugs into the block. I really dont like messing with those much unless its on an engine rebuild.

Also there is a threaded drain port in the lower back portion of the block. Appears to be about a 1/2” NPT thread.

Also on the lower portion of the thermostat housing there is another threaded port, also appears to be about a 1/2” NPT.

That I think would be about perfect for a recirculation type tank heater and so it shall be.  
Now thinking about it, I did not check the upper thermostat housing to see if there is an outlet up that high.

If so that might be a better port and would keep the warmest of the coolant circulating through the head too.

I think it would work good like that. Thermostat I dont think would block the flow.

If you plug the top hose into the thermostat, I would worry about it opening and then trying to circulate the radiator coolant too.

What usually works better is hooking lower hose up to the block drain, then putting a tee where the temp sender goes, then hooking the upper block heater hose to one side and the temp gauge to the other. That way you don't have to worry about the thermostat accidentally opening.

[MrMarty51]

39 minutes ago, Powered by IH said:

If you plug the top hose into the thermostat, I would worry about it opening and then trying to circulate the radiator coolant too.

What usually works better is hooking lower hose up to the block drain, then putting a tee where the temp sender goes, then hooking the upper block heater hose to one side and the temp gauge to the other. That way you don't have to worry about the thermostat accidentally opening.

Excellent idea.

That shalt get done.

[766 Man]

41 minutes ago, Powered by IH said:

If you plug the top hose into the thermostat, I would worry about it opening and then trying to circulate the radiator coolant too.

What usually works better is hooking lower hose up to the block drain, then putting a tee where the temp sender goes, then hooking the upper block heater hose to one side and the temp gauge to the other. That way you don't have to worry about the thermostat accidentally opening.

  If the wattage is high enough the thermostat is going to open anyways even if the high point of the heater circulation is into the block or head depending on the engine.  

[stronger800]

Yes, my 2000-2500w heater, they heat the whole radiator, …and the cab heat exchanger. Sure start nice though. P  
all the auto stores keep 1500’s on the shelf here 

[MrMarty51]

I took another look at the left side of the engine on the dozer.

the upper forward pipe plug goes into the coolant pump housing, not the thermostat housing.

There also is another plug into the cylinder head but I dont know if that one goes  into the water jacket.

tomorrow is warmer temps, I’ll pull that plug and see what, if anything comes out.

[stronger800]

A plug/port in the head, I’d feel pretty confident that it’s wet on the other side. You don’t even have to be on just one side of the motor either . If there’s an easier plug on the other side, just run the hose up and over.

[MrMarty51]

On 12/29/2025 at 9:33 PM, stronger800 said:

A plug/port in the head, I’d feel pretty confident that it’s wet on the other side. You don’t even have to be on just one side of the motor either . If there’s an easier plug on the other side, just run the hose up and over.

A wet plug indeed.

Man am I half blind or just that slow.

That plug is on the left side of the engine above the block drain plug, and, about two inches away is the coolant temperature sensor.

there is some warm weather this week, maybe I can get this chore accomplished during this warm spell.

[hardtail]

[stronger800]

I got excited when I seen that hose clamp of hardtails, I thought it was Marty’sI was gonna say whoa this job just got easier

[MrMarty51]

On 12/31/2025 at 5:04 AM, stronger800 said:

I got excited when I seen that hose clamp of hardtails, I thought it was Marty’sI was gonna say whoa this job just got easier

Almost that easy.

Thinking I’ll come straight out with a nipple about 1-1/2” long then elbow to the back as far as it needs to go to be in alignment with the lower drain plug hole, then, another elbow and hose barb pointed downwards.

Then a street el out of the block drain pointed upwards and the tank heater fit between the in and out lets.

Prestone coolant needs to be changed any how.

I have not tested it for strength, added about a couple of quarts before firing it up after setting for who knows how many years.

Time to freshen it up.

 

[MrMarty51]

Oil change coming real soon too.

If the wifey will allow me tomorrow to remove the strings of Christmas lights from the dozer and the house, then, the dozer will get moved to in front of the garage bay door and work will commence.

I did mention the removal of the lights, without mentioning my intents and her response was, it’s suppose to be real nice on Sunday.

I think she does not want to let the lights come down. 🤷😹

[stronger800]

 Pipe fittings cost more than hose.  Let’s keep this thing in budget!

[lotsaIHCs]

1 hour ago, stronger800 said:

 Pipe fittings cost more than hose.  Let’s keep this thing in budget!

Yup. 2 hose fittings in the engine, 2 pieces of heater hose and 4 hose clamps. Good to go.

[Binderdan]

How am I just now finding this thread?? I guess I don't come to the General Chat section so much.

Congratulations on your find and getting it home! I enjoyed the videos! I was in a similar situation a few years ago with a free TD-14A I got, unfortunately my engine was stuck so I couldn't drive it out. But I did finally get it home. Hauled it 40 miles on my gooseneck behind my single wheel one ton pickup. NEVER AGAIN! Hooked it to a Peterbilt for the rest of the 500 mile haul. 

If you still need manuals I have PDF scans of originals I can set you up with free. Operators manual, service, parts, and bullgrader manual. Just send me a message and I'll get you fixed up. Let me know your serial tag so I know what versions you need.

[hardtail]

17 hours ago, MrMarty51 said:

Oil change coming real soon too.

If the wifey will allow me tomorrow to remove the strings of Christmas lights from the dozer and the house, then, the dozer will get moved to in front of the garage bay door and work will commence.

I did mention the removal of the lights, without mentioning my intents and her response was, it’s suppose to be real nice on Sunday.

I think she does not want to let the lights come down. 🤷😹

Great wife Marty sounds like she's getting attached to the rust, not a problem many of us share

[MrMarty51]

On 1/1/2026 at 9:07 PM, Binderdan said:

How am I just now finding this thread?? I guess I don't come to the General Chat section so much.

Congratulations on your find and getting it home! I enjoyed the videos! I was in a similar situation a few years ago with a free TD-14A I got, unfortunately my engine was stuck so I couldn't drive it out. But I did finally get it home. Hauled it 40 miles on my gooseneck behind my single wheel one ton pickup. NEVER AGAIN! Hooked it to a Peterbilt for the rest of the 500 mile haul. 

If you still need manuals I have PDF scans of originals I can set you up with free. Operators manual, service, parts, and bullgrader manual. Just send me a message and I'll get you fixed up. Let me know your serial tag so I know what versions you need.

Thank You for the offer on the manuals.

For now I’m pretty well set up, got the two part  repair manuals, parts book and operators manuals.

We did move it with a tandem, dually GN trailer rated at 25,000 pounds.

The one ton single RW Cummins Dodge that has auto load air bags handled the load very nicely.

in the videos, the lower end of the bridge, city side, My house/property is just two blocks from the bridge.

We did go a little farther though, maybe another mile total to run the load across the scales at what was once the PV Elevator. PV long time ago pulled out so a farmer now owns that and they have a farmer/ranch store in town and they been utilizing the old elevator business. They keep the scale open and on an honesty system request $15.00 for the use there of.

It was well worth that to finalize the actual weight of the IH at 23,900 pounds.

Now I know what to look for if a trailer deal ever appears. 

[MrMarty51]

Been busy but now getting some time.

Doing some scraping, digging and chiseling on crusted in dirt, rocks and grime.

This is what was built up between the belly pan and the oil pan.

 

Scraped and dug in the starter and revealed three of these oiler spring loaded caps.

 

Removed the hood as there are several broke off hood hold down bolts that needs to be worked out so new bolts can be installed.

Also in search of a rocker arm cover gasket as I want to go through the valve adjustment procedure. 
 

Called NAPA to see if they might list such a gasket but the parts counter rep could not find a listing. Been searching the internet to no avail. If the cover is stubborn I’ll use the butane torch, heat around the cover before attempting to lift it off the spacer. Possibly saving the gasket.

Book says the coolant capacity is 19 gallons. I asked if there was a possibility of getting green antifreeze concentrate in five gallon pails, nope but right now antifreeze is on sale at $10.00 a gallon so I’ll be at the store tomorrow for antifreeze, oil and fuel filters and an engine tank heater.

Not sure what to run for oil. I would like to go with the full synthetic Rotella T-6 5W-40 but dont know if the old seals would hold it in.

I’ll go by You guys recommendations, not brand, just viscosity. I know how those so called, what kind of oil threads goes. 😹😹😹😹

Thats about all for now. I’ll be busy cleaning, draining, lubing and refilling.