TD 9 transmission oil issues

[Qball]

So my old 1956 TD9 transmission leaks....fairly bad like a gallon and half a day.  I currently don't have time or facilities freed up to give the leak the attention it needs.  as it would be a fairly deep dive as I have a laundry list of stuff needed to do to other equipment first then the old girl gets the attention to tidy it up.  (mind you I did just get the seat re-apolstered)  its the small things that make me happy

 In the meantime, I need to use the machine on the property for another few weeks before I can give it a break.  My question for the collective brain trust on here is...... Can I use a 000 or 00 semi fluid grease in the transmission of the old girl?  I know on my old BSA motorcycles, when the seals on the old pre-wet clutch transmission are all worn out or the casing no longer seals as it should, we can use a semi fluid synthetic grease and it works just fine with no ill effect.  I am just curious if any one on here has done the same to get them though?  

 

The old girl is worn, sloppy and tired (im talking about the TD) but still fires right up and pushes dirt, trees and brush here on the property.  

I really can't complain much as I bought it for 2500$ canadian sunk 3500$ into and have used it steady for almost 3 years now.

 

thoughts on the semi fluid grease?

 

[td9inidaho]

I have heard of plenty of of people using items as you speak in the old worn out rollers, and I myself have an excavator the prior owners didn't want to drive into the swing motor, so they filled it with what you are stating, once warmed up, swings way faster then when cold.  My opinion says it will work. Not sure how shifting will be affected when cold. Keep us posted if you decide to go that route and how it worked out 

Mark 

[hardtail]

All clutches for engine and steering are dry, your transmission is splash lubing, is it leaking externally or going into another compartment?

[Dirt_Floor_Poor]

If it’s leaking gear oil, you could put corn head grease (grade 0) in it and put a little 140wt oil in there on top of it. It may need to be overfilled a little if using grease. If anything it will slow the leak way down. 1.5 gallons a day is a pretty big leak. I put a bunch of corn head grease in the planetaries of my loader the other day.

[Qball]

So I dumped a 5 gallon pail of 00 semi fluid grease in.  No detrimental effect and shifts great even at start up, even at only a few degrees above freezing .  Still was oozing out but way slower.  upside is with the slowed leak I found some haywire repairs that were done by past owners that were primary culprits!  I have repaired and un-haywired most of it.  the machine is getting better and better as I fix 70 years of farmer fixes.  Does anyone have a schematic including the transmission casing? there are, and were multiple issues that I am having a hard time determining why they were done. some I am hesitant to un-do.   BUT... the oil/grease now seems to leak out a port on the front end of the transmission.  I need to climb in there today and see if it has threads but being a big 6'2" guy and it is in a tight space at front of gearbox where it meets the motor down by the springs between the track and it is not easy to get to.  I am not sure if it is supposed to have a plug and or if it should even be wet?  or if it is an inspection port of some sort.  It would have to be a plug and not a bolt as it looks like the springs would shear it off if it were a bolt.  I will get a picture later today.

 

[louie figone]

Is the oil coming out of the hole (#2, Illust. 3) if so, that is the drain plug hole for the engine clutch compartment, there should be a plug in that hole. Do not plug that hole if that is where the oil is draining from, the clutch compartment is to be dry. If the oil is coming from that hole, you have a bad driving shaft oil seal, or a leaking gasket on the transmission end cover. The drive coupling seal would be a fairly easy fix. You will have to pull the clutch out to get to either the seal or the transmission end cover. Get yourself a service and parts manual.

[Qball]

So i did plug that hole (#2).  am unsure if that was leaking as well but will take that out and check  if there is a leak there but there probably is, i just assumed it needed a bolt.  there was a modge podge of support plates welded on the bottom where the draw bar connection was and that covered that hole.  i rebuilt the support plate properly but the bolts were in various states of leaking.  the other hole i was referring to earlier was on the front plate and appears to be a mounting bolt that was snapped due to the spring hitting it.  I also plugged that hole as it was covered in oil.  It totally is looking like i gotta open her up and do major surgery.  I am just hoping to limp it for the spring and maybe dig in late summer when I have time.

[hardtail]

Is the offending hole in the clutch compartment? Any cover plate or casing that is tapped would be a plug, if the inside is threaded would be a bolt

Clutch compartment and steering clutch compartments should be dry, transmission, bevel gear and final drive compartments should be wet

[Qball]

thanks Hardtail and everyone else!  I got the bulk of the "mandatory" work I needed to do on the property with the dozer today I might rename it the SS Valdez.  Tomorrow after work she is getting parked beside the shop and some internal surgery will follow.  I managed to get the transmission book for my machine but for service of the front seal it has me pulling the tank, seat and half the damn machine apart.  Looking on the forum here it looks as though it can be attacked from the top inspection plate?  If so does anyone know if the clutch has to come out?  and if so can I do it from the top?  or do I need to break the engine and transmission?  The past owner has welded both the engine and transmission to the frame, so I am praying a bunch of grinding and die grinding the crappy farmer welds off is not in my future.  even greased up with oil and grease pissing into the bell housing the clutch only started slightly slipping at the end of today.   Hoping some brake clean on the clutch and a new seal will have her good (ish) as new lol.  she is loud and rattles like **** but can't believe how much dirt it has moved over the last year!  saved me a fortune compared to getting someone in!  was well worth the headaches and pittance I paid for it.  they just dont build them like this anymore.  

really appreciate all the help boys!  thanks so much.  It helps keep me motivated and not get discouraged.  

[louie figone]

The clutch needs to come out, it's fairly easy to pull the clutch out. You don't need to pull the seat and tank to change the front seal.

[pusher]

Hi all, hopefully it is just a front seal to the transmission which I have had to do once, from the top, no engine or transmission removal needed.

clutch out not a bad job, I had to put a speedy sleeve on the transmission shaft and then a new seal, about 400 hours ago and still have no leaks. Good luck with it. Cheers Michael .l

[Qball]

I dove in today….not the best time i ever had.  It was a greasy mess.  Trying to get it apart was a bit of a pain.  To get the clutch rod out i had to pull part of the dozer support off.  I found a shop manual online on how to do it.  The manual makes it sound way easier than it was.  Not that the steps were hard just worn out bolts and rods. I could see it being easier 50 years ago before the clutch engagement rod was smashed up and mushroomed on the end.  My problem now is while the clutch isnt in terrible shape, since i am in this deep i want to replace the clutch.  I cant seem to find one online, its a 13”.  Would the one on ebay fit?  Slightly different but dimensions appear right.

[hardtail]

 

 

[hardtail]

https://www.steeringclutch.com/td9strcltch.htm

Looks like they have the button type at bottom of page

[louie figone]

Like Hardtail said, General Gear in Boise ID (208-342-8911) shows the 303 766 R91, 273 258 R91 (cerametallic) and 277 421 R91, all for the TD9, TD91, TD92.  I needed a clutch disc for the TD9B as the disc came apart, FP Smith had a used disc, they put new lining on it for me. FP Smith does not show any clutch discs for the TD9 series. You can have your disc relined but it does not seem to be in bad condition from your picture.