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louie figone

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Everything posted by louie figone

  1. Ya, postage would be astronomical and could take a month for them to show up😄
  2. Bulldogred, measure the gauge of the tracks (center to center) the TD7 is 52 inches, The TD8 is 54 inches. Dennis is correct in that the serial number is stamped on the right hand side near the rear face of rear main frame.
  3. There is a factory service manual on ebay now for the 100Chttps://www.ebay.com/itm/252847791311?hash=item3adee71ccf:g:IdgAAOSww3tY5rII Searching Ebay is probably the best if you want OEM service manuals, otherwise there are reprints available, the quality is not as good as the original manuals.
  4. You need to pull the radiator. The torque converter will come out with the engine. You need to get the service manual for the 100C.
  5. Will this help, from a 1970 Parts and Accessories book
  6. TD9, take the two bolts out of the clutch release fork, you may have to put some heat on the fork to free the rust, there are two woodruff keys in the shaft that hold the fork from twisting, also a woodruff key on the shaft keeping the hand lever from twisting. You will need to remove the two keys from the shaft so you can slide the shaft out of the case. The gears look ok as mmi says, that rust will clean up fast when using the tractor.
  7. Swampdigger, no that is not the factory IH ripper.
  8. Swampdigger, Welcome to the forum, I have attached a page out of the operators manual, the large notch is the cold start position, after starting and leaving it in the cold start position the engine will start to lope after a couple of minutes, then move the throttle to the low idle position. You want to run it at full high idle position, the tractor has a torque converter, it needs high rpm (they are rated at 2500 rpm) to develop power to the transmission. You can shift from 1 to 2 to 3 without using the decelerator, use the decelerator when shifting from forward to reverse and come to a sto
  9. I'm with KS on this, it's a learned thing. The book calls for 15 ft. lbs. I use 1/4 inch drive sockets on those bolts.
  10. Don't use a hammer. The adjusting ring has raised lugs on it, take a bar or large screwdriver and use it between the serrations on the plate and a lug to turn the adjusting ring. You will have to rotate the engine flywheel little by little as you turn the adjusting ring in to line up with the next lug.
  11. Do as Ray said, General Gear has service manuals you can download. The operators manual is also good, it shows the lubrication points, general daily service points and operating procedures. While you are in there grease all the fittings including the ones for the brake pivot shafts, you will need a light to find those.
  12. Post pictures as you go Dave, it's not too bad of a job.
  13. Dave, it's not the worse job in the world, it is time consuming, do you have the service manual for the tractor? It walks you through the procedure. It helps if you have small hands.
  14. Dave, I measured an adjuster rod on one of my parts machine (TD6-62) it is 1-1/4-7
  15. Dave, I have these on my TD6-62 and my TD9B. Lot's of heat needed to get the threaded adjusters to move, I had to get the lock nut cherry red to get the lock nut to move. These Hydraulic track adjusters are from Henderson Mfg. Texas, they no longer make them for the TD6/TD9, I have a neighbor that made a set out of track bushings.
  16. 1965 would be a TD9B, is it power shift? Can you post pictures of the cover you are trying to take off
  17. Try Joseph Industries Inc, 10039 Aurora-Hudson Road, Streetsboro, Ohio, 330-528-0091. www.joseph.com/Remanufactured_Torque_Converters.asp They advertise remanufactured torque converters for construction and agricultural
  18. I not familiar with the TD15, the smaller crawlers, TD6, TD9 have a vent pipe that runs from the top of the filler opening to the outside bottom of the tank, blow compressed air through the pipe to clear it out.
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