1026 1256 Rear End

[ComancheStarFarms]

We’re about ready to start using the 1026 that we recently bought.  Everything seems to check out fine.  Herrs has been a huge help - got the test gauge set & the updated filter setup.  This evening as I was replacing all the hydraulic drain plugs in prep for refilling with Viscosity HyTran a 1” x 1/4” broken bolt fell out of the rear end center drain plug.  Here’s a few photos of the bolt/screw.  One end is hollow for about 3/8” deep & the other is solid but looks broken off.  Any idea what this is?  What likely happened? How bad is my new problem?  Thanks - I hope!  - Jonathan 

[Drysleeves]

Looks like the three point linkage screw. Easily accessed by removal of the third link bracket. Blue Locktite on the threads if memory serves but it's been ten years since I had the same issue on a 1456.

[iowaboy1965]

It's hollow on one end because it's a set screw, you can see the flats for an Allen wrench. I would assume drysleves is correct about what it may be.

[ComancheStarFarms]

That’s great help.  Evidently it must be important otherwise it wouldn’t exist.  Does it need to be reinstalled?  Once the top link cover is removed how do I find where it goes?  This one seems to be broken - is the original longer?  I really appreciate your help!

[Matt Kirsch]

Most likely the rest of the screw is still in place doing its job. If that's the case the broken stub will need to be extracted before a new bolt can be installed. 

Does everything work as you expect it to? Then it probably doesn't need to be replaced.

I believe it is part #15, as shown below. Part of the draft sensing mechanism. It specs out to be a 1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" long set screw. Held in place by a lock nut. Might not be too bad to replace.

Just be aware the list in the online parts book is off. It says #16 is the set screw, and it clearly is not.

[Drysleeves]

Yep that's the one. We were lucky as ours just fell out intact. Yours looks broken and might need to be replaced.

[ComancheStarFarms]

I’m impressed with all three of you!  Not to whine but if the set screw is broken off (which it clearly looks like it is) then it likely is broken without leaving anything to grab onto to remove it.  Any suggestions on how to get the stub out of there?  And how wise is it that if everything still works then just leave as is & walk away from it?  Thanks again!

[snoshoe]

It adjusts draft control. If the rest of the screw backs out. You can windup with hitch up and won't come down. Otherwise if you don't plow and position control works. You don't need it.

[naedlaen]

2 hours ago, ComancheStarFarms said:

I’m impressed with all three of you!  Not to whine but if the set screw is broken off (which it clearly looks like it is) then it likely is broken without leaving anything to grab onto to remove it.  Any suggestions on how to get the stub out of there?  And how wise is it that if everything still works then just leave as is & walk away from it?  Thanks again!

It might not be seized, so it might just turn out.  As an adjustment screw, it might have the other end proud of the threaded hole.  You won't know until you open it up.  Left hand drill bit on a closed hole. RIght hand drill bit on an open hole should work if there is not an exposed end.  

Neal

[Matt Kirsch]

When I was looking through the parts list, it calls for a lock nut.

I'm betting the set screw snapped off at, or in, the lock nut. It may be as simple as slapping a wrench on the lock nut and turning the whole mess out.

Worst case, I THINK you can get the #16 part out by removing the #17 pin. 

[Drysleeves]

Yes there's a lock nut. Ten years after and I forgot...

[ComancheStarFarms]

Stunningly impressive by all of you - thanks!