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Everything posted by ryangpayne

  1. Thanks very much for the information. Glad to know I have the majority of the stuff, bet I can build whatever I don’t have that I need in the future. Have a 986 I need to pull the rear end out of. I found these scanning through an auction in the TX panhandle online. The auction company didn’t know what they really were and just had them listed as transmission stands. They should come in pretty handy. I’m working on getting the wheels lubed up so that they are free now.
  2. I bought some international splitting stands at an auction a few weeks ago. I found pics of some of them in my 986 service manual but have questions on a few of the smaller pieces I couldn’t find. I know the four wheeled one is for clutch jobs and things like that and I got the brackets to attach to the frame rails. And the 3 wheeled triangular one supports the rear end so it can be removed. And the pipe with the big J bolts is used to lift the cab. How about some of the smaller brackets in the last pic? I have the piece of square tubing with the pipe off the side of it and the exten
  3. If texas wasn’t too far away I have a project IH 200 I’d give you.
  4. Here’s a couple pics of mine. It doesn’t hinge twice but the angle where it attaches does throw the weight over onto the pickup more and it does stand a bale up vertical when raised all the way.
  5. You’re sure welcome, if you need anything else let me know. We do use this loader frequently but don’t abuse it. My dad bought it new and put it on this tractor when it was pretty new itself. We unload and stack a lot of hay with it. It has unloaded many bales that the hydraulics on the tractor won’t lift. It will tilt them back but not lift them. We use it for a little dirt and material moving and loading and carrying gates and things that are to heavy to lug around by hand. In my opinion the bracket setup is plenty stout and will stand anything the loader itself will. I have seen s
  6. Let me know if you need more pics or measurements of anything!
  7. I have a 2250 on a 686, if I can remember will get you some pics in the next couple days so you have a starting point at least
  8. The spindle on my drill press is a MT. But right now it has a Jacobs 1/2” chuck on it. Right now my belt is on 1 speed above as slow as it will go. Maybe that will be a good starting point. I will definitely mount the VFD up out of the way of shavings and in the dry. I’ve read they need plenty of airflow if you mount them in a box. Thank you very much for the info on where to set the hz to start out and what to limit it at. I don’t think I will ever need it sped up from factory just would be nice to get it slower. It appears I have the slow speed pulleys on the press which might be nice. I’ve
  9. Thank you all very much for the help and replies! I believe my 3 phase motor is good. But that is just going off what the previous owner told me when I bought it. It does roll smooth just turning it. I don’t really plan on having any more 3 phase equipment in the future besides this press. I believe I’ll get a VFD on the way and give it a try. I’ll let everyone know how it turns out and I might have some more questions. Thanks again!
  10. Thanks very much for the replies! The drill press will be in my insulated but not heated shop. Although here in west Texas it would rarely if ever get below freezing in there. So far here is what I have found. Do these look like they would work or Does one look like it’d be preferable? They range from about $180-200 for the 2HP to $240 for the 3HP one. Thanks!
  11. I’ve been looking for a drill press for awhile. Got tired of only finding stuff from Taiwan and China. So today I bought an old Rockwell Delta 17-600. I got it pretty cheap because it has a 3 phase motor. It appears to be a dual voltage 220/440- 1 HP motor. I was wondering what the opinions were on the best way to convert this press to single phase. I could supply either 220 or 110 volt. Or if I should just get a different motor entirely? Everything i find, people get a VFD box and put on them to convert and have variable speed. I will only be drilling steel with it though so I re
  12. I bought some wheels like that a few years ago for a lowboy trailer. It had 15” wheels on it but I changed it over to 17.5” and they weren’t split ring so they didn’t need flaps or tubes. I got them from Southwest Wheel in Dallas, TX. I think they have 22.5 and 24.5’s as well
  13. I wouldn’t say ANY brand older than a 1990 you couldn’t get undercarriage parts for. I know you can walk into a CAT dealer and buy just about anything you want if you can afford it. I buy parts for cat equipment weekly that were made in the 60’s and 70’s
  14. I found a site called avspare dot com I’ve been using. I was searching for some NLA parts for an IH 4500 field cultivator and found all the numbers on there I needed. It’ll show you every part number like a real site should unlike the new Case site.
  15. The combine is a 1440 with something around 4000 hours on it, we’ve had it since 93. It’s Been a good one
  16. You might also try Gap tractor parts, Cranfills Gap, tx. Or B &M tractor parts Taylor, Tx
  17. Thanks guys! They sure all earn their keep here but they are good and reliable. My grandad bought the 986 new so our family has put all of its 11,000 hours on. The rakes are a 960 and 970. They do a great job. It’s gets tricky running them in terraces though when they start pointing out in the middle. I’ll add more pics when I get the chance!-Ryan
  18. Going to try to post a few pics of some of our working IH collection
  19. Thank you very much for the pics Mike! That’s a good looking plow, I’ll see if I can fab up a similar hydraulic setup
  20. Does anyone know of any equipment salvage yards where I could look for brackets for a hydraulic wing setup on a 18.5’ 45 field cultivator? I’m looking to convert my manual fold one. Or if anyone had one in their scrap pile I’d sure be willing to buy one, or build one with some measurements. Thanks for any help!
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