ryangpayne

Looks like a good rig, we bought a 75c a couple years ago for misc small jobs and have put 1100 hours on it so far. Has Been a good little tractor.

Made 2 trips to the elevator today with no problems. Temps stayed in line with where they were yesterday even with going 30 miles or so each way. Got 800 bushel hauled off. It was a good day, thanks to everyone again!-Ryan

I got the front wheels took off today. I will include a pic of the heat mark on one of the rotors. I could turn the wheels by hand but there was a slight dragging. But it had also sat all night so that might have let some pressure off of it. My local napa had a couple reman calipers so I got those put on. I took it for the same test drive as before and the highest reading I got off my temp gun was 380 in the middle of one rotor, but most readings were in the 320-340 degree range. I’m not sure if it’s 100% or not but I feel like it is considerably better than it was before the new calipers when it was 560 degrees. I believe I will head to town with a load of wheat tomorrow and check it a few times and see how it goes. I appreciate everyone’s help and will post back tomorrow.

That’s a good looking truck. I bet that is handy to have around. I wouldn’t mind having one with a dump bed like that someday for gravel hauling. Here is mine.

Thank you very much to both of you guys for the responses and help. HydroTek- I will dig into those calipers tomorrow, thank you for the idea. I couldn’t think of where to look next. And didn’t know how hot was normal. It sure tells me I have a problem if yours you can still touch.

The truck stops very well and brakes seem to work well.

The brakes haven’t completely locked up on me again since that first time. I will have to try cracking the lines to see if that makes them quit dragging. There is some free play at the pedal, it feels like it always has really. On my last test drive it doesn’t feel like they are locking down, just seem to be dragging just enough to get things hot. I will have to see if I can locate that check valve on the outlet of the master cylinder as well. Here are a couple pics of the system. I dont know a whole lot about them but I would say it is some type of electric booster mounted below the master cylinder. When you turn the key on it buzzes and the pressure light comes on until the motor starts then it goes off. This truck has a 466 motor. the first time they tried to lock down was the first time this had happened in the 20 years we’ve had this truck. And I had just got home from about a 60 mile trip. Although the last 9 years this truck has just been used to plant out of and hasn’t been over 10 miles from home so they could’ve been dragging some and we just never noticed it. The old rotors were worn heavily on the outside and had cracks in them.

I have a 1984 IH S1900 grain truck I’ve been trying to haul wheat with. It has hydraulic disc brakes. After I made the first load and got home the front brakes were trying to lock down so hard it was hard for the truck to push them. I decided the calipers were probably stuck from the truck sitting around. It needed new rotors anyway so I put new rotors on it, wire wheeled and greased up the slide rails and put new rubber brake lines that go to the calipers. Reused the calipers and pads because the pistons pushed in fine it seemed in order to remount them Took it for a few mile test drive and they still got what seemed very hot very quick. Took the lines off the master cylinder and looked over the proportioning valve and it was stuck and one line coming out of it was bone dry. So to get running again I put the master cylinder, steel lines and proportioning valve off a s1700 winch truck I have onto it and had new rubber lines made that go to the proportioning valve. I just took it for about an 8 miles test drive and with my temp gun I get 560 degrees on the rotor on the drivers front, 400 on passenger. 500 on one rear rotor and 400 on the other. Are these acceptable or normal temperatures? The elevator is about 35 miles away so I’m just trying to get everything fixed so I’m not broke down on the side of the road. These temps are with 400 bushel of wheat on it, single axle truck. Thanks for any help!-Ryan

It’s sure making it hard to get much wheat cut

Finished up the trailer a couple weeks ago! Tried it out hauling a few loads of brush but haven’t got to try it out with a load of dirt yet. I think it’s going to be pretty handy.

I am not up on the differential data. I would kind of wonder if the 540 on the first of the serial number could be the ratio but that’s a complete shot in the dark. You could always jack up the rear end, put a mark on the tire and a mark on the driveshaft and see how many turns the driveshaft made for one turn of the wheel. -Ryan

Maybe this will help

That parts tractor is a 147. The tires on it are 27-8.50x15. I’m not sure what the rims came off of. The centers are just flat plate. The previous owner made a lot of modifications to it lol. I assume he wanted the PTO clutch off the front so he torched the end of the crankshaft off.

Thanks! I don’t have a plan for brakes yet. I think just using it on the ranch here I could get by without them. I considered looking into an electric over hydraulic unit for if I wanted to use it on the highway but I need to research that more. It has hydraulic disk brakes on it and I have left all that and capped the lines just in case. That is a 102 cub cadet to the side, and a parts machine I bought mostly for the steering gear box. I picked up a little IH rear blade/rake I need to get mounted on it.

Thought I’d post a few pics of my progress so far. It’s far from professional but I think it will work for what I want to do. It’s been a lot of work so far. Still have a little way to go yet. Please excuse all my junk