Mudfly

I'm not there so I can only answer your questions based on the information given. If you want to reuse the rims you have, the best bet would be to get the same size tires. i.e. 16.9 - 28 based on what you have listed here. Thats 16.9 inches wide on a 28 inch diameter rim that is likely 14 or 15 inches wide. Tractor data is good for some general information but it is not perfect and has flaws, plus that tractor is nearly 50 years old so the centers, rims and tires could all be different from what came from factory/.

7.50 is rough width. -16 means its on a 16" diameter rim. These are front tires. 16.9-28. Rear tires. 16.9" wide (roughly) and 28 inch diameter rim. The "On 15" rim", is the width of the rear rims. So your rims could be 15" wide x 28" diameter, but those tires will fit on 14" wide rims also.

I went back and took a look. You are correct and the 656 was sitting in the open shed. I missed it the first time thru. Pete has a nice set of working tractors.

I didn't see his 656 in the shed, but being a hydro I don't know if he would have taken that rear end apart as far as it was.

They usually offer about $0.30 on the dollar for what its worth.... and floating bog isn't worth much.

It runs in streaks for me. Some weeks i don't get any. Other weeks I get 2 to 4 form letters in the mail, usually postmarked from Florida, and up to 6 texts. They always say 40 acres, but never state which 40 they would want to buy. Several are land locked and there is at least 1 40 that you can walk across, but I wouldn't stand in 1 place for 2 long (i.e. all floating bog). Wetland credit scam would make sense.

What’s the reason for the variable oil squirters? Are they trying to save parasitic losses or are they concerned about too much cooling at lower engine output? The race for hp and torque seems to come at the cost of added complexity and lower reliability.

Ah ha - I missed that connection. Then yes, exactly like that.

Look at the address in the location. I'd say its an AI or Spambot. Screenshot of the building listed.

A 392 with what 200 to 250 hp stock. Now same truck with 600 hp stock and 1400 lb ft of torque. I will say the brake are better now.

GM - 8.3L Duramax Ford - Rumors of 8.0L Powerstroke Ram - again rumors of 7.2L Cummins? I like displacement as much as the next guy, but this seems a little extreme. I could see it limited to 450/550 and 4500/5500 platforms. But a 3/4 ton with 600 HP and 1400 lb feet of torque just seems like a recipe for disaster. Most DL are limited to 26,000 combined weight, but the trucks have the HP and torque for a truck rated for 40k+.

I ordered it with that installed also.

Now that pictures are back up and working, I thought I would post about an IronBull canopy that I installed on my Ford 4600 this summer. I am really impressed with the quality of the brackets and canopy. Plenty of steel. The hardest part was getting it lifted up. It would take 2 strong men and someone else to put bolts in. I ended up slinging it from the skid steer forks. its not a cab but shade is better than being in the sun.

I was waiting if anyone else commented on this, since I have zero first hand knowledge. I will say that the YouTube channel Farmcraft101 just redid his injectors on a fuel pincher for the exact same reason (fuel in the oil). He also changed the fuel pump, reset the governor, and set the output on the injectors. He was able to source the tools, but discussed what would be needed to work on it without the specific tools. it looked like a PITA to me, but could see how it would be worth it vs trying to repower a truck with a different engine.

I think uninsured/underinsured is required everywhere. I've used it as I was rear ended hard and the driver of the other vehicle decided they didn't need to stick around even though they destroyed their radiator (assuming not here legally). The state patrol that came to write up the accident report was kind of surprised he didn't find the other vehicle within a mile with the several gallons of coolant on the ground at the accident site. Either way, the accident report was written up in my favor since I was rear ended while driving on an open 4 lane highway with little traffic and I actually stopped. This was over 15 years ago and even then it was $7000 in damage.

Never been in this circumstance, but will insurance cover anything related to an event that occurred while running from the cops? Or if you were proven to be intoxicated? Seems like those would be really good reasons to deny coverage.

For fist sized rocks, just get a roller and pound them down either before or after you plant. I'd post pictures of some of the ones that I just plucked out of a pasture, but the site isn't taking pictures still. There were a couple that the skid steer wouldn't lift and tipping capacity is over 4000# on that machine. Got them pushed out of the hole and to the rock pile. Probably pulled 15 or more in the 2 to 4 foot diameter range the other night and these were all within 50 feet of each other. Plenty more to go if I choose to do so.

Concur that it has survived 46 years. It has maybe 2000 hours on it in those 50 years. I bought it last winter. I high suspect it was used to plow snow on an asphalt driveway and that's about it. Not the dustiest environment. Not that I'm putting it in the worst environment, but at the same time I'm just asking if a dry element filter would be a better option for air filtering. Even a 1980 diesel engine has a lot tighter tolerances than a 1950s Farmall. I believe oil bath filters really went out of style in the 60's and 70's. I'm assuming there was a reason why, even if it was just ease of maintenance or the need to keep a filter small enough to fit under a hood (dry filter element is more efficient with space). Neither will work well if not maintained.

I have a Ford 4600 diesel and it has an oil bath air cleaner instead of a dry filter element. I see that there were options for dry element air cleaners. My question is would it be worth looking for the parts to change over to a dry element filter or should I just keep it as an oil bath? It seems like the oil bath is actually cheaper to maintain but not sure if they are as good of a filter. I thought I read somewhere that oil bath cleaners can be just as good as a dry type but are limited on air flow after a certain amount of cfms. thoughts? Opinions?

Sorry about your medical problems and I can't help you with your issue. Also sorry for the side track, but I've been meaning to ask you if you have a Super C listed on craigslist currently? Listed in Two Harbors, thought that could potentially be yours.

If you are going to run it at some point, just bite the bullet now and pull the head. Yes you have to buy a head gasket and drain/replace coolant, but you will know what you have in the cylinders. You can clean out any rust and likely get a good idea if your rings are stuck or not. You can also take a look at your valves and send off/lap if needed. If you choose to not do that, I still am a fan of jacking up one rear tire, put it in 5th (direct), and put a lever and weight to keep torque on the wheel/tire and engine. The consistent pressure seems like it works well. Possibly reversing the direction of the torque every few days.

Need some more context to help you out. Was it working and then just stop? Is this a new to you tractor or one that you don't have any history on? Have you recently taken a loader off or is there a power beyond valve? The reason I ask is, my BIL bought an 884 (same hydraulic system) and the remotes wouldn't work. Turns out the previous owner took off a loader and loader valve, but didn't connect the power beyond lines back together to get flow back to the valve. Simple fix once we knew what was wrong.

Not my patch work, but you are likely correct. Lots of things not quite right with this car.

Look like it is supposed to be the port on the side that Dieselman suggested. I will have to get some more vacuum line and a splice tomorrow get that hooked up. I do not remember cutting that line but must have happened.. or as I said it was never hooked up. thanks.