Grumpy Gaby

Aw Tony! That remark plus the Disnyland remark is what it's all about!!!!! The 91 year old, I'll Bet you made his day for needing those balers, and going to a "Ramos (sp?) restoration" had to be icing on the cake! That is another reason, to see the glow on someone else's face!!! ……… Ifn you really have to get rid of "junk" (also called someone else's pride and joy) you can always load up a load and take into the scraper, maybe get enough to buy a bottle of wine or two.

What a score! But yu know now it will take longer to restore one...…. Cus You'll have to be running from baler to baler making sure you are going to use the best part!!!! What a delima, having three of everything to choose from!!!!! I LOVE IT!!!!! Will be following closely.

Looking GOOD! Tony I'm like Smoker1, If I came down and walked around the baler once, I would walk out the door with at least half your dirt/grease attached to me!!!! Keep up the good work!!

Hadn't heard about the fires, but did hear about your record setting high temp's. Your skeeders will have to start carrying water tanks to keep cool! Are some of these fires going to be put out by the first snow fall?

Well, I didn't find anyone that have been in these SOOO I opened it up! The bottom is held together by 4 (I'll dots, but needed something on the inside to back up) You can see the one on the cap real good, the one that matches it is on the bottom at about 11:00 o-clock I used a pair of vise grips to flatten out the dots. It took a special screw in the end of a slide hammer to get apart.There are three bafels just slid in. The brass rods did not want to come out. (I did not try heat) The upper end of the twisted square rod has a guide on both upper and lower ends. The u shape flat bar is magnetic. The twisted rod is heat treated. There is a button that the twisted rod goes into, and then the button fits into the bottom of the gauge casting. There is no through hole. One the aluminum face plate has a dot in the lower edge to locate it in the top of the casting. The top of the casting also has the dot and the face sets just inside the inner ring that you can see. The needle sets on the solid pin and is turned by the magnet through the casting. The cover is two piece cromed brass. I had to insert a thin tool (pocket knife) between the glass and the rim of the top cover. (parts in this photo are upside down) After lifting the rim a little I went around the outer edge with a very small screw driver and tapped and lifted the top cover, glass, and bottom cover out of the casting. As you can see the glass is very brittle. (glass is 1 7/8 inch in dia. and .13 inch thick. the was what I thought was corrosion under and around the face disc. but the same type of "stuff" was between the cover, glass, bottom cover, and casting. Might have been decomposed sealant or glue. There are brass inserts in the threads, don't know if these were to keep it from coming apart, or to hold the brass rods into the casting. I tried to pry the stirrup down far enough to get the twisted rod out of the hole, as you can see, I didn't succeed! Not going to mess with it until I put it back together. If you need to free up the needle, go into the top. Free up the twisted rod, try to do it with out taking the bottom apart. I am not sure how to put a new cork on, maybe split it and glue it back together. Well that's all I know!!!!!!

Has anyone successfully taken an original apart to rebuild? With some wd40 and just a little heat, I got the top to turn in the cap a bit. It will rotate until the brass stirrup rod comes in contact with the edge of the opening in the bottom of the cap. Does the stirrup have to come out, or does the bottom of the cap come off? ?

OBG I hate to disagree, but the 100 replaced the super A. The one in your picture is a 130, or painted like one. I figure that you know sooo much that you are intitaled one mistake!

Good, I was starting to wonder about your family with these storms going through. Did you have bad roads? Just think..... your own BED!

What did it have it to start with for engine?

More on steering. The hole for the cylinder shaft end was wallowed out badly, so years ago I welded it up and sized for a clearance hole for the shaft. To my supprise, there should be a locating washer in that hole. So now it is like it should be! Moved the steering wheel a little to get the stud in to line up the ball . Put in the parts and move the steering wheel back, put in the stud, nylock, and remember to grease! And ready for hoses. The power steering pump was bad enough that I could not rebuild it with the rebuild parts kit. I ordered one from Steiners, ended up putting it on "OLD RED" because I could never get the stock power steering valves to work, besides the new pump had different connections. I found this pump on E-bay, it was off of a IH truck and was a two bolt flange mount, but had the same connections as the original. Opened it up when it came to see condition. Was pretty good, out came the Sawzall, off came the flange mount. I chucked the front housing in the lathe and cleaned it up and shortened the snout. Also the shaft, ended up doing this twice to get the correct set back from the belt. Also, the sheave was letting the belt ride on the bottom, so built a new one. (modified pump came without sheave) All in place and hooked up like original! One thing though, wait to put power steering on until you get the injector pump, lines, filters, and the like in place, or you will get to do it overrrrrrrrr!

A little more update: The last power steering cylinder turned out to be in great shape, but the shaft was bent. I probably could have straitened it on the press, but it had radial cracks in it about every 1/2" the full length. The last thing I want is to have the steering head south while I'm in road gear! This is the old shaft and new shaft with both ends touching. This is the 'seal, wiper, guide' gland. The one for the last cylinder was perfect, so used as-is. This is the one from the old cylinder that I rebuilt to get more knowledge. First, I almost ruined it with my chisel. I had just rebuilt one for the late 560/660. They just had a straight split from the body to the cap, so a chisel tap was great. The 400/450 & early 560/660 (same cylinder number) the cap goes over the body. I did find that a quick shot of very lite penetrating oil cuts the surface tension and they almost fall apart. (I used WD40) Someone had beat on this one in other areas before I got into it. The "T" ring seal as they call it in the book came out with the backing rings in pieces. This seal is OBSOLETE per IH, so went on a look/see! On the out side of the cap is the shaft wiper. This model has a 1/4" thick hard felt wiper and a pressed steel retainer. I did not have any felt, and the cap was boogered up on this side also, so put in lathe for a little cleanup. By the way, the felt retainer came out fairly easy by using a flat blade screwdriver between it and the felt with a fulcrum outside of the retainer radious. (chisel) The cap ended up pretty chewed up inside the wiper area, so ended machining out to the late 560/660 specs. for a lip seal. In this last pic, the body is resting on the seal that I came up with. Its a X shaped o-ring. Called a qaudra seal!??(quatra?) Has four sealing edges, two inside, two outside My thinking is that there was some reason why Monroe did not use a plain o-ring to start with. It ended up having the correct compression with one backer ring (white) . This seal can be used on all 400/450/560/660 cylinders. The 600/650 use different part numbers, so???????

After regaining my sanite! Did a little machining! Lil ackward but worked! Starting to fit up! Now for a big weld! And ya get this! Sorry for not being correct, but got fast hitch equip to pull!

A little fill in from then to now! Have ya ever had no extra money! Had no gumption! All ya wanted to do is go to the shop and have a couple of cool ones! WELL it can get down rite dangerous!! Spair parts and frustrated hands can be a bad thing! Yup, It'l fit! Turbo is wrong size, off 99 Dodge 5.9 but it's doable! Time to lock up and get back to the house!!!!!

Oh! To be a kid again!!!!!!!!!!!

I did add more fuel, but as I was starting to take off the return line, I noticed that the throttle rod was not hooked to the pump arm. It was laying on it and each time I throttled up the rod slid down the pump arm until I had no throttle at all! ? Also tightened the bolts on the throttle pivot at the lower dash. Had a real good run today!

Thanks! N of 60. I hope you are right about enjoying it for many years! If I don't, you guys remember where it is, because it is now a very good base for a restoration!? I fixed the manifold switch today with contacts from another manifold. Mounted the dash again after switching leads on the amp gauge. It made the choke work much smoother. Fired it up again, gas exaust cleared right up, and switched over to diesel well. 45 PSI oil, Good charge from altinator. I was running it about 15 minutes, changing throtal settings when it just died out, like it was out of fuel. Checked tank, still had 3 inches. I will check for a plugged return line.

FIRE IN THE HOLE, SMOKE IN THE SHOP!!!! HACK HACK!!! It took a long time, but finally got the "OL Bird" to run today - both gas and diesel!

AK Steiner's has the kit. IHS3473 $64.95. If you were next door I'd throw you a package!

My steel retainer was needing cleaned up, I do not have hard felt, and am going to have a tractor with one of each 375260R1 and 363209R1, so went with the lip seal instead. I cleaned up the retainer and bored it out to1.125" to make a light press fit for either 367808R91 or std. lip seal 7414. Also cleaned up the main guide block with file and emery. Guide on left for 375260R1 (105066) (late 560/660 international), on right guide to fit either 363209R1 (400/450 International) or 371185R91 (early 560/660 International) ready to reseal cylinders! Unfortantly The 600/650 International cylinder 363610R91 uses different part numbers, and I do not have one of these to find out what can be subbed. If anyone can help, please do! On a side note..... I forgot when I ordered from McMaster-Carr...…… I received 100 of the quattro seals, and 50 of the backup rings.....sooooo… if anyone needs to replace 364107R91 PM me with your mailing address. I will give away 25 of each! Thanks I hope this helps someone! Boyd

The seal inside the main guide block is again the obsoleted 364107R91. The wiper in these two cylinders are a felt ring with a pressed steel retainer. 364105R1/364106R1 Also obsoleted. To remove the pressed steel retainer, I found that by sliding a thin flat blade screwdriver between it and the felt, I could pry it out easily using a fulcrum between the screwdriver and the outer retainer (steel). A person could build a new wiper from 1/4" thick hard felt, if you are good at getting inside and outside dia. consentric with each other. And reuse the pressed steel retainer.

Let's try this again! For Cylinder 375260R91 (105066 marking) (late 560/660 Internationals) This picture shows from L to R: the large dia. o-ring 364108R1 (std. #133 buna-n replacement if needed), the main guide block with 364107R91 replaced with (one #210 ptfe split backer ring and one #210 quattro o-ring (also called X-ring), the retainer with 367808R91 (367808R1) (std lip seal 7414 replacement if needed. Now for the Early 560/660 Cylinder 371185R91: It turns out that the 371185R91 and the 400/450 cylinder 363209R1 Use the same parts in this area. (I have not gone through all the part nos. but what I have, have found no difference!) On these cylinders the main guide block and retainer are put together differently. As you can see by this picture, I did a lot of damage to the main guide block by thinking that the step was a split. The retainer actually has a lip that goes over the main guide block. Someone earlier punched on the inside dia. of the retainer causing damage. (this is where I found out about the light penetrant (wd-40) after sprayed, this joint fell apart)

IHCforlife I sent you a PM.

The wife just came in----- the German Shepard had to follow, and bumped my computer, so lost last post with pictures!!!! I will repost when I get my wits about me again.

This is the retainer with the wiper/ lip seal (367808R91) As you can see the retainer has been buggered up some from earlier rebuilds. The wiper is to be installed with the lip up or away from the cylinder body. This is the fix that I came up with for 364107R91 first. a 210 size ptfe split backer ring(this ring is .004 to large on the o.d. so will overlap to much. I just ground one of the overlapping tapers slightly), a 210 size quattro seal, and another backer ring. As it ended up, I did not use the second backer ring because the seal protruded above the main guide block enough to get it compressed, and also the back if the retainer is smooth and provides retention on that side. For the wiper, I found that a 7414 lip seal will replace it if it were to be obsoleted.

Well I couldn't stand it, pulled the cylinder like yours down. I will try not to confuse people, but.... What I found in my old 560/660 parts book and on line at Case/ih is that the picture does not match the discriptions. Items 35 and 36 are out of order. The "T" ring w/washer (364107R91)is the seal and goes between the main guide block (no number) and the retainer(375266R1). What they are calling out as a seal(367808R91) is a lip seal, but in this location it is used as a wiper. To clarify for other people this is cylinder (375360R93) and is marked on the outer barrel 105066. This is the guide assembly with the outer o-ring seal(364108R1) and its metal backer ring. to the right of the chisel that is keeping it from rolling is where the backer (retainer) fits inside the main guide. A couple of taps in the slot with the chisel will open it up. (found by spraying area with a lite penetrant like wd-40 will drop the surface tension of the oil in this area and will come apart better. This is what is inside: L to R Main guide, backer ring, "T" ring, backer ring, retainer, wiper or lip seal. The backer rings come with the "T" ring (364107R91) witch is obsoleted. The wiper or lip seal is (367808R91) I believe being still avalible in the form of 367808R1.