Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by England806

  1. Is it a Roosa master pump? If so maybe the flex ring is breaking up.
  2. Yes. There should be some tension on the rod. This will determine the boost pressure the wastegate starts to open at. If you have a boost gauge check boost pressure under full load and see how it compares to spec. If fueling is correct and boost is low increase tension on the rod until you achieve correct boost pressure. Insufficient tension will allow early opening and lack of power
  3. If it’s an agriomatic I would use the correct fluid. 80w90 does not work well with those multiplate clutches. many years ago a friend had a 523 agriomatic and put EP90 in the transmission. It leaked just as badly when warm. Wouldn’t change gear properly when cold and seemed to slip. he fixed the leaks and drained it all out filled it with Hytran and had no more problems after that.
  4. Hi all. Just in th process of renewing the park brake band on a 574. Went in through the top as I have large hands (the pins were difficult to remove through the top!) the band has very little visible wear and the drum is fine was wondering if anyone manufactures brake bands that don’t glaze over if you accidentally drive 50yds with it on Have done a few of 74 and 56 series(European) with this problem I always install a buzzer and bright light Yo warn drivers but some still manage to drive with the brake on is there anything available with a different lining material?
  5. My apologies for incorrect advice. The engine we had with a compression leak was not a 239. Was a long time ago.
  6. Yes. There should be a sealing washer in there. Try and clean the hole thoroughly. Make sure the seating face is clean and not scored. New washer and should be good to go.
  7. If pto clutch pressure checks ok and you still think the clutch is slipping you can get cheap optical tachometers on eBay. Just stick a little piece of reflective tape on the shaft and point the tachometer at it. Useful for other jobs as well.
  8. He can also get parts for USA built tractors. Helpful guy.
  9. I would put a support under the front of the transmission so it just takes a little of the weight. I also put a support under the oil pan I usually use timber to avoid bending the pan. Only need to support it. Not lift it.
  10. If it has no t/a you can pull start it. If it has a t/a then no.
  11. Welcome to the best forum! You could try Napa. Or see if you can cross reference the numbers on the net.
  12. Does it have a loader on it? Did you check levels each time with loader and three point hutch in the same position?
  13. My 806 used to do the same. Sometimes it would crank fast and start or it would crank then slow tight down. Cleaned all connections. Bigger ground cable as it was getting warm. New battery. Cleaned starter and new brushes. It made a difference but still not great. Went to tighten the solenoid connections and one of the threads stripped. Put a new solenoid on and all my starting problems vanished. Took the solenoid apart and the contacts were badly eroded.
  14. With the gear on you should’ve able to turn it by hand. There will be some resistance but it should turn smoothly.
  15. Hi Jim. You have sent it to the wrong Andy! Afraid I wasn’t involved in that project. Would have been interesting though. Andy.
  16. Front wheel assist option made by roadless traction. (Not my tractor. Mine isn’t as tidy!) hi
  17. They aren’t that common in the Uk Don’t think they were made in big numbers. rice farming? There’s an idea. Will need to be a bit wetter though.
  18. Yes I would but I need to find a replacement first. Not had much luck yet.
  19. Does your spreader have an oscillating tube that distributes the fertiliser? When I used to run that type on my old B250 it used to make a knocking sound. When I went to the spreader with a spinning disc no more knocking! Before that I was convinced I had a gearbox or pto problem. If your spreader is a rotary type then ignore this !!
  20. You could also try Ron Greet tractors in Devon England
  21. If you can’t find the parts locally you could try Richard Pocock at Pocock tractors in England. I think he ships to and from the USA. He has a lot of parts tractors so he should be able to help. Look him up on the web.
  22. I recently bought a farmall 806 FWA Poor starting and low on power. Would only start with ether hot or cold and zero fuel pressure on the gauge. Cleaned tank. Replaced fuel lines. Both filters were half full of sludge. Adjusted valve lash as nearly all of them were at .001-.002!! Dropped oil pan and cleaned out sludge. Cleaned oil pickup. New oil and filters. bled the fuel system and after a fair bit of cranking it fired up. Runs very well and now starts much better. But here’s the problem. Still zero fuel pressure. The bleed valve on the bottom of the transfer pump is missing and someone has replaced it with a plain hex plug. The pressure regulator plunger and spring above it are in place and not seized. Pump gears are turning ok. my suspicion is that the stem on the bleed valve at the bottom should hold the plunger above in a certain position to cover an orifice. The hex plug is not doing its job. Has anybody got any ideas on how I could position the plunger to get fuel pressure? Ed Leaman is looking for parts for me but I need an interim fix until I get them.
  23. If the ring lands are ok and piston to bore clearance is ok you’ll probably get away with it. The area of concern on that design of piston is the narrow edge of the combustion bowl on the right of the pics. Make sure there are no rough spots or sharp edges there as that area seems to act as a hot spot and starts melting. Have seen it happen on a few bd281 engines used in the 614. (Persons experience with pistons that look like yours). If that part of the piston is ok they usually last quite well.
  24. I meant bore size between 236 and 248. Not your 212!
  • Create New...