England806

Worth trying Attleborough diesel and Welham diesel. Both in the Uk.

I’m in the uk. Have had 574. 674. 784. 884. Also have a couple of 806. In the 74 and 84 series I have always used a cheap universal tractor transmission fluid. No cold weather problems with any of them. Coldest it gets here is 20f. both 806s are on Hytran Ultraction. both had noisy sluggish hydraulics when temps were down to 30. A new MCV pump cured one. And in the other I thought I would just replace the shaft seal on the MCV pump. Instant improvement. No further priming or noisy hydraulics. As others have said. You have problems other than fluid viscosity.

Try places in the uk. Welham diesel In Leicester. Attleborough Diesels Norfolk. Or even eBay. Set your search preference to uk ul

Managed to source seals for the 8630. We now have an account with Kramp. 1/3rd of the price of main dealer. When the seals arrived they were genuine CNH and made in the USA! local company think they can supply me with X rings for the 806 brakes.

No quad rings available off the shelf of correct size unfortunately. Pity as they are way cheaper than new Holland. £3 instead of £70 for about the same size. Can get them made but then cost and lead time are a problem. looks like il have to stick to original seals.

Yes. They are available but several people I know have used them and failed in a few months. A new Holland dealer said they had a lot of problems with them. The twisting issue was not the new Holland seals. That’s my 806. Just a round section o ring. At least on the 806 it’s a 10 minute job to remove the brakes but the 8630 is a lot more work to get at the seals.

I did wonder as the original seal section is 1/8x3/16. Was wondering about a 1/8x1/8 quad ring with a 1/16 Teflon backup ring.

Hi all just replacing brakes on a Ford 8630 (yes. Wrong color!) was wondering if anyone has used quad rings or x rings successfully as piston seals? The ford used a square section o ring. Was also thinking of using quad rings in my IH806 as after a while the o rings on the outer diameter of the piston seem to twist then eventually leak. Has anyone tried this?

Some of the European built 358 engines were turbocharged. Worth giving Engine Fix UK a try. Pretty sure they ship anywhere. They got me a new manifold for a 7250 for £112. Also got my 806 flywheel ring gear from them for about £60. So not too expensive.

Exactly! They have an internal resistance (determined by wire size and length etc) but not an internal “resistor “. Had a friend cut a scrap coil open one day. Looking for an internal resistor. He was disappointed 🤣

I have used Victor Reinz gaskets for about 15 years. Not had any failures yet.

Had exactly the same happen. Coolant looks brown and rusty but when you drain it the engine looks really clean in the coolant passages. I have found the organic acid coolant does attack the solder (it took four or five years to show up) . Had two rads with brittle joints and had to te solder them. colors over here don’t seem to bear any relevance to type anymore either. Different manufacturers seem to use different colors for the same product types.

Some years ago I was asked to do a complete overhaul on a David Brown 990. Bores looked worse than yours. His idea of complete overhaul was new rings and big end bearings! Incredibly it’s still running 5000hours later. As you said oil consumption was the problem. Exhaust was a little smoky but he was happy. Interesting project. I have never seen one. I knew IH had a tie up with komatsu but that stuff is pretty rare in the Uk. good luck with your project. I’m sure with your knowledge and experience it will turn out very well!

Hi mike. Rather slowly I’m afraid. Have been making a few sketches of the adaptor plate. Also been modifying the fuel pump drive so I can get rid of the auxiliary pulley out the back of the engine. Been busy sorting out a Massey 50b that I bought to use as a loader and general lifting tractor. not enough hours in the day! Il let you know when there is a bit more progress.

Did you get it running ? If not remove the injector pipes from the pump. Remove the delivery valve holders. Delivery valve plungers and springs (keep them in the same location as they were removed). muse a soft drift (copper or Aluminium or a soft blunt ended nail). Put it in the hole where the delivery valves were removed and gently tap the plungers down in their barrels. After a few taps crank the engine and tap again. Usually frees the pump plungers. Flush out the barrrls with clean diesel or wd40 etc. usually works well as long as there isn’t too much rust or corrosion in there. Have done many like this with great success.

Looking goood! Should be nice when it’s finished.

Well worth spending money on the 806. Great tractors and mostly easy to fix. I know I’m converting mine to Cummins but I will never sell it. Too useful. It’s come to the rescue of more modern tractors on many an occasion. That flywheel could be machined and re used.

Some time ago I had an 856xl that had very odd electrical problems. I discovered the multi plugs behind the firewall had been swapped around. Once they were correctly fitted everything worked. I’ll try and find a diagram if I can.