England806

Good luck on your new adventure. I think you will enjoy it!

Condolences and prayers for you all.

Always wanted a meteor or Merlin. had to make do with the V8 meteorite. still not running yet.

I’m in the UK as well plenty of good knowledge on this forum that you won’t find anywhere else.

Those hot spots tend to go very hard I have machined a lot of flywheels to get around the problem but it often means removing more material than is desirable. Then it messes up the rest of the system. Last one I did was for an IH674. It had been machined a lot previously. Ended up having 0.315” total removed. Caused a lot of problems but managed to get around them with a lot of head scratching. All because the owner wouldn’t buy a good used flywheel. Customer him a lot more in the end.

Prayers sent. Hope she makes a good recovery.

I have used epoxy primer on a few projects. It certainly seems to stay on well. Many years ago I bought some Jotun. Two pack Called Hardtop. Was told it would work in aluminium without an etch as long as the aluminium was freshly abraded. I had serious doubts but gave it one coat. (No primer). Brushed it on as I didn’t want the hazards of spraying. 25 years later it’s still good. Have also used other products of theirs with good results. I think Jotun are a Norwegian company. They seem to do a lot of marine coatings. I don’t know if they are available in the USA.

Try Leamans tractors. Willow st Pa. got a complete diff for my Coleman axle (806) from him.

I got mine from Ed Leaman No idea what make they are but they work well and are quiet. Think they were about $100 or so. for the set. Last year. Got some heavy duty ones for my other 806 years ago from a case Ih dealer. They have also been fine and showing almost no wear. I had one set re lined. Worst decision ever. Wrong thickness. Way too expensive and they lasted about 18 months.

If that arm is forged or cast steel it will weld ok. Chamfer the edges to get full penetration. After welding remove any sharp edges to prevent cracks from starting. If it’s nodular (spheroidal graphite iron) it can be welded but the process is more involved and temperature control at each stage is more critical. I always prefer to replace steering components where possible. A much safer option but usually more expensive.!

Recovery!

That’s not good. Prayers for all involved. I hope he makes a full and speedy reconvert.

Have seen a couple of home built disc brake conversions on fordson majors mused discs they machined and Iveco air operated calipers. Worked extremely well and not that difficult to do.

This probably doesn’t help you but we had 248 that one day would not start. No fuel to injectors. System was all clean. Dismantled the pump and cleaned it out. There was a little light brown residue in it but nothing serious. Resealed the pump and refitted it and it works fine now. I have no idea why it would not work. No amount of bleeding made any difference. Full tank. Etc. Even tried and electric pump. Still mystified as nothing obvious was wrong.

I think new rod bolts are cheap (relatively!) insurance. I don’t know if ARP make any for IH engines but their products are top quality. A lot of work goes into a good rod bolt b

One of those rifles sure would be a nice addition to any IH collection!

Yes. I have seen the fridges. Curious as to what else they were involved with.

Has anyone ever seen an IH rifle? I never knew they existed! what else did IH manufacture?

Also check side clearance on piston rings.(parallel rings not keystone. You can get a gage for checking keystone grooves. ) check rings for consistency around their diameter ( thickness and depth). Check clearance between end of wrist pins and circlips/locks. I had a couple of pistons for a Cummins c that the retainer grooves were too close together. Check piston to deck height.(compression height. ) (Had a couple of horrors here. the more you check the less likely you are to have a failure. a company I know have been buying their pistons (mainly for ford)from one company in China and have had excellent results with them. They sent some to a lab for metallurgical analysis and the results were pretty near perfect copy of original material composition.

Not sure of engine model but I’m pretty sure an all Aluminium 427 was used in the ZL1 Camaro.

Rodents kept chewing the fuel line on my compressor. It’s a fabric covering over rubber. Soaked the last one I fitted in Hytran. Problem solved so far!!

Check the relief. Pump is easy to pull my 806 lost all hydraulics. Key had sheared on pump shaft and gear was spinning but not turning the pump.

I am not going to recommend mixing but a while ago we messed around mixing and heating various types of antifreeze to see what would happen. the only thing we saw was some sediment produced when glycol. SCA and OAT were mixed. Nothing produced any gel. I have used OAT and glycol mix with no problems but best way is to buy a good quality premixed extended life coolant and flush the system thorough prior to filling.

I used the semi clear soft wax on my dodge w200. Sprayed it in all the cavities When it was finally parked up alongside my k5 blazer they both sat under trees for 10 years or so. The blazer almost disintegrated but the dodge was still sound. I’ve since used it on my Landrover chassis and bulkhead with good results. The black underbody stuff is good if applied properly but if the surface it’s in isn’t perfectly clean and dry eventually water creeps in and starts the rot.

That’s nice!! Almost too good to use.