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Everything posted by England806

  1. As snoshoe says if it quits moving sprag in t/a is bad. Probably time for a split and t/a and maybe other things while your in there.
  2. Sounds right. Suction will pull the lip against the tube.
  3. Same here not many in the Uk. Parts are hard to get as well.
  4. Glad you got it working ok. I have a case shop manual for 2294. A lot of it is similar. If your stuck anytime I can e nail pics if pages to you.
  5. Have you got any flow from the hydraulic pump? Anything at remotes?
  6. I thought those case tractors were supposed to be 12 volt system. Mine has two batteries in parallel
  7. My 806 did this. I managed to find a slightly thicker o ring. Cured the problem. Another “fix” I use is wrap a little ptfe tape where the o ring seats in the groove in the shaft. It can be done on the outside groove o rings fit in but much more tricky. So far it’s worked every time. Cheap as well!
  8. Possibly disks hanging up on the hub or in the carrier basket? We’re the plates flat and even thickness all the way around ? Had some plates supplied to us for a power shift trans. Out of the box they were far from flat and also lining thickness was very uneven. Made in Germany. Unusual for their stuff to be off. I changed the plates in my 2294 and two of the plates had almost no wear others had no friction lining left. No obvious reason for it.
  9. Thanks Jim. This is either 1971 or72 Yes it does have the lift pump as you describe. I have seen the Perkins variant with CAV pump but never on the others. This one has plenty of leaks and was a really bad starter. It had a planetary starter on it but it was in a bad way and cranked too slowly. They used half a can of ether each day to start it. I increased fuel delivery in the pump and found an old Lucas starter in our scrap pile. It cranks a lot faster and starts instantly now. Cab will come off and split it for a clutch etc. Not a full restoration but get it to be a good usable tractor.
  10. We have just bought a rough looking 674 with loader. Not a pretty sight. it has a CAV dpa injection pump on it. I thought all these tractors used the Bosch VA pump. If it is a conversion it’s been on there a long time and been done very well as it looks factory. I know you can buy a CAV conversion fir these but they are a two stud mounting. This one uses three studs like all the older CAV pumps did. Has anyone seen this before? Or have I been living under a stone for too long?!!
  11. Maybe he wants chickens and hoping they’ll hatch!
  12. Try disconnecting both steering lines to cylinder. Place each one in a separate container of same size. Run engine. Turn steering wheel one way at a constant speed as you can manage. Maybe 10 revolutions. See how much flow you have in the container. Do the same in the other direction. Is flow fairly equal? Repeat at higher rpm. Does it change much? Try a pressure gauge on each line. Are you getting same pressure in both directions? If it’s erratic or considerably different one way maybe there is a problem in the pilot valve above MCV (if it has one). This is assuming clean filter and enough oil and no mechanical binding of any other steering components.
  13. Does it only do it uphill? Does it have t/a? Does that work? Oil clean and enough if it? Hyd filter clean?
  14. I didn’t realise they were meant to be loose. That snap ring had been in there a fair while I reckon. Il take your advice and get the correct one.
  15. Might be a possibility. Il measure and see what thickness I can get in there. The old snap ring wasn’t original and was dished like a Belleville washer where the gear was moving against it.
  16. Pulled the hitch pump to make cleaning rear housing easier. Hitch pump drive gear is pretty loose on the shaft. Snap ring is in place. Was wondering about making a spacer sleeve to go between the pto spline coupling and the gear to reduce end play (leave the snap ring out). Just leave enough end float so nothing binds up. Gear teeth aren’t in bad shape and the hitch won’t see much use. What are anyone’s thoughts on this? I don’t want to do a rear split to change the gear.
  17. I agree. If you can’t take care of them properly don’t have them. Friend of mine had a pony stolen some years ago. Finally found it almost starved at a local travelers site. He got it back and it recovered. Why steal it then neglect it? Those travelers will never ever steal anything again for sure after he finished with them!
  18. Another step towards total control. cellphones already control us more than we realise.
  19. Yep! Don’t trust the idiot light. By the time it comes on there is usually a problem and it’s too late. Good quality mechanical gauge every time.
  20. Not had much time to take proper measurements but did a couple of quick experiments with different tires. Definitely a difference in R/C depending on travel direction. Rolling forwards and backwards on a dusty surface it’s easy to see the lug pattern does not line up. More pronounced at lower pressure. More obvious with newer tread. Tried it with a Firestone 23degree lugs not quite so pronounced. Bitty point seems to be valid about wear as all the firestones we have had seem to wear very evenly (and last better than anything else). The good years on the back of my 806 have a very odd wear pattern.
  21. Moore and Wright are good but they all wear eventually. I use an old cast iron square that came with a vertical borer but it’s big and heavy so it has its limitations. Useful for checking combination squares though. You could always use a fixed square and save the combination for where you really need it.
  22. They don’t want to get wet and muddy! friend does search and rescue with his dogs. He was training some cops. Took them out in the girls when it was wet. They were complaining about mud on their shoes. He put them through a few hoops that night. They went home covered in mud from head to toe. Search and rescue doesn’t mean sitting in a cop car.
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