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England806's Achievements

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  1. I have bent a db clutch. Not obvious it had happened either. Rolling the two halves together. Wouldn’t quite engage. A bit of rocking and pushing by hand was sufficient to do damage. if you have room and access at the bottom of the clutch housing it’s better to slide the pressure plate and clutch onto the shaft. Roll the two halves together then bolt the pressure plate from the apperture underneath. if you do have to assemble the clutch to the flywheel first I usually file a small chamfer on the drive plate splines to guide them in. (Bit more difficult on the pto drive hub on the back of the pressure plate as it’s harder but you can use a diamond file) you can also grind a little more chamfer on the shaft wher it goes into the spigot/pilot bearing in the flywheel. (Don’t go mad and grind it to a point though!). if you have some long studs you can use in the bolt holes as guides that will help in lining things up. If all is lined up correctly the two halves should push together relatively easy. If they don’t rotate the engine a little by hand until things do line up. If you use bolts to pull the two halves together it’s very easy to damage something.
  2. Long shot. Check the drive plate did not get damaged during installation. Had a DB 995 that clutch would not release. Put drive plate in a lathe and put a dial gage on it had about .250” runout. Centre hub had got bent when reassembling the two halves of the tractor. The owner said he had difficulty getting the two halves together.
  3. I’m with you on that! I get all the headaches from others. 674 clutch job. Flywheel had .280 machined from the face. Drive plate was rubbing against flywheel bolt heads. Most would buy a new flywheel and while you’re at it replace the 1/2 worn through pto driveshaft. New seals and front bearing in the trans while you’re in there. No. He said what can you do. Joking I said I could machine the flywheel again (looks like it’s been done more than once) machine the centre of the flywheel deeper for clearance on the bolt heads. Remove the pto drive hub from the pressure plate and turn it over and refit it in the back to push it into the unworn part of the splined shaft. Space the throw out bearing forward a bit. I never expected him to say do it! But it works. He’s happy and using it. I will keep quiet with any future ideas like that!
  4. I have seen this done many times. As long as the spacers do not lift the cover out of the locating recess it isn’t a problem. It works but not ideal. Far better to get machining correct in the first place. .030-.040 will make a substantial difference to finger height.
  5. Yes. The case on the left side of the trans. Problem I have is due to front axle being planetary reductions I need to increase the speed of the driveshaft to front axle (or go with tires that are far too big!). I have found a company who can manufacture gears for me.
  6. Check as others have said. Also check new pressure plate dimensions. (Flywheel mounting face on the pressure plate to clutch face on the pressure plate) have had three new ones over the years that were wrong height. Two were so tight the fingers were down against the cover when bolted to flywheel the other was so loose it would barely grip the drive disc when bolted up. Just because something is new it doesn’t mean it’s right.
  7. I have missed his posts on here. I hope he is doing ok. He has had a lot to deal with.
  8. I was planning on finding a way to select drive to the front axle. When I finally get to have the gears cut I will see if they can manufacture and fit a selector dog in the transfer case. If there isn’t enough space I may have to devise something external.
  9. I have to say I agree with you Art. Also a lot of youngsters have a hard time separating reality from fantasy. They treat guns and knives as toys. Add to that too much time on the internet it’s a recipe for tragedy!
  10. I drained my farm all 806. Hydraulic top cover off. Stripped speed trans. Pto out. Cleaned everything really thoroughly as there was a lot of slimy black snot in there. All re assembled new hytran and filter. It didn’t take long to show signs of water. Tractor lives out but I cover the whole back end with a heavy sheet to try and keep water out of the trans. It just will not prevent condensation unfortunately.
  11. Take the little plate off the side “window” and see how clean it looks inside. If it looks nice and clean you are in with a chance. If it looks brown and gummed up probably needs going to a pump shop. Worth giving it a pull as others have said. Also try pressure bleeding. And maybe a sniff of ether (don’t use glow plugs with ether) The last one we had like that was all gummed up and brown inside. Plungers weren’t stuck but could not get it to pump enough fuel.
  12. If it’s a dpa try carefully warming the whole pump. It takes a while. Sometimes the heat will free the pumping plungers if they are stuck. Also gentle tapping at the head of the pump may help. Had an MF had this problem. Could not get it to work. Stripped the pump. Nothing obvious wrong. Sent it to a pump shop. They could not get it to work either. (They didn’t charge which was decent). They found me a recon that had been in their stock for ages. Did a really cheap deal. Runs perfect. had the same problem with a Perkins 3-152. Took a lot of cranking and priming before it would finally go. It would just pump froth from the injector pipes No idea why it was so difficult to bleed but has been fine since.
  13. I haven’t bolted the front end onto the tractor yet so no driveline pics. Il post some when it’s together. Will be a while though due to cost. What started out as an engine conversion has become a major project.
  14. I did try this many years ago. Had a Landrover with severe driveshaft angles. Cv joints worked but due to higher than recommended speed and running at a constant angle they got hot and I had regular drive boot failures. It did eliminate driveline vibration though.
  15. Welcome. Plenty of good knowledgeable people on here. Best forum I’ve been on by far!
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