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England806

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  1. Well that was just careless of him!
  2. Don’t mess with marines in case you end up tripping over the curb!
  3. I wasn’t implying low lube pressure was the cause of the problem. Just a symptom of wear and leakage. these tractors are getting old now so they are entitled to have a bit of wear.
  4. I would think that when it’s cold and the oil is more viscous it will maintain pressure to the T/A clutches. As the oil warms and thins there will only be just enough pressure to maintain drive but the moment you de clutch an try to start again there is not sufficient pressure to provide sufficient friction between the T/A clutch plates for drive. Combination of worn plates insufficient oil pressure and a bad sprag clutch. If the sprag is good it should drive in low T/A with no oil pressure at all.
  5. I’m glad you are making a recovery. that is incredibly harsh of the company after your long and loyal service. A lot of companies are just about the money and not the people that made the company what it is. I hope your company eventually does the right thing. Wishing you all the best.
  6. I thought serial numbers start at 501? are you sure that’s the complete serial number?
  7. Be worth checking pressure and flow from the MCV pump hot and cold. Internal leakage will increase quite a bit hot. I guess at some point you are going to have to do a split.
  8. 13-14psi after working an hour doesn’t sound too bad. Mine has about 10psi when hot. As Matt says if it won’t drive immediately as you release the clutch the sprag is bad. Easy check is engine not running select a 4th gear high range forward. Try to roll the tractor backwards. The spray should lock and try to turn the engine in reverse. Get a couple of people to push on the tires to roll it back while you watch the fan. If the tractor tolls back easily it’s time for a split and t/a. would be worth checking drive pressures in hi and lo. If dump valve is over adjusted the main clutch will engage before the t/a clutch pack. This will make drive take up pretty jerky. When I bought my 806 the seller said it had a power assisted clutch. Dump valve had been adjusted too much. Resting uour foot on then pedal would disengage drive (sprag was shot). Rebuilt t/a with all genuine IH parts problem solved. (Apart from the hit to my wallet!)The old unit was in a bad way. No idea how long they ran it like that.
  9. Lemans tractors. Ed is knowledgable on that stuff.
  10. I would check ring end gaps. Just because parts are new it doesnt mean they will fit correctly. Always check new parts for dimensions before you fit them. (If possible). Have found plenty of things out of the box that wouldn’t fit over the years. chances are the rings will be pretty close but you will never know unless you check.
  11. Praying for a full recovery for you both. Be strong.
  12. Is it a Roosa master pump? If so maybe the flex ring is breaking up.
  13. Yes. There should be some tension on the rod. This will determine the boost pressure the wastegate starts to open at. If you have a boost gauge check boost pressure under full load and see how it compares to spec. If fueling is correct and boost is low increase tension on the rod until you achieve correct boost pressure. Insufficient tension will allow early opening and lack of power
  14. If it’s an agriomatic I would use the correct fluid. 80w90 does not work well with those multiplate clutches. many years ago a friend had a 523 agriomatic and put EP90 in the transmission. It leaked just as badly when warm. Wouldn’t change gear properly when cold and seemed to slip. he fixed the leaks and drained it all out filled it with Hytran and had no more problems after that.
  15. Hi all. Just in th process of renewing the park brake band on a 574. Went in through the top as I have large hands (the pins were difficult to remove through the top!) the band has very little visible wear and the drum is fine was wondering if anyone manufactures brake bands that don’t glaze over if you accidentally drive 50yds with it on Have done a few of 74 and 56 series(European) with this problem I always install a buzzer and bright light Yo warn drivers but some still manage to drive with the brake on is there anything available with a different lining material?
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