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About England806

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  1. I think those pins should “just” pull out. The flats are so the retainer stops them rotating and wearing the holes they fit in. Good luck!
  2. I think it’s worth giving it some hard work first. Had a leyland tractor some years ago that was only on light duties. Used a **** of a lot of oil. Had a couple of jobs to do with it that needed full power. Noticed oil use was less than expected. After probably 40 hours of hard use oil use was minimal. Although if I used it for light work a lot oil use would rise again. Not saying hard work will definitely fix your problem but worth trying.
  3. Some engine injector lines are a real bundle of snakes! my 806 lines are odd lengths as the original RD pump seized solid (my fault. Forgot to drain water). It now has a CAV minims in-line on it. Runs fine although when I removed the exhaust manifold and measured exhaust gas temperature there is a bit of variation. Never caused a problem but not ideal.
  4. Just had a look at a Cummins 8.3 marine engine. (430hp) They have gone to a lot of trouble to get injector lines the same length. Also the same number of bends (although not in the same place) on lower pressure systems timing effect would be very small but as pressure rises it would be more significant.
  5. All matter is compressible. It just takes sufficient pressure.
  6. Oversize injector lines will retard timing slightly as fuel is compressible. Biodiesel slightly less so. Keep line size matched to the rest of the injection system. Bigger is not always better. As pete23 says can also cause cavitation and internal erosion of parts.
  7. Well worth spending money on the 806. Great tractors and mostly easy to fix. I know I’m converting mine to Cummins but I will never sell it. Too useful. It’s come to the rescue of more modern tractors on many an occasion. That flywheel could be machined and re used.
  8. Another place to try is Swenson collector tractors. North Dakota. They seem to get a lot of mfd tractors. Not sure if they part any out. Worth a try.
  9. A lot of valve blocks use fairly common o rings. Worth tearing it down to have a look probably be a cheap and easy fix.
  10. I think Leaman’s tractors Pennsylvania can supply a complete unit or parts.
  11. I use a long cable tie. Once the bearing rollers have partly entered the fear you can cut the tie and pull it out before you push the trans fully home.
  12. I prefer yo date women. Although tractors are probably a lot less trouble. 🤣
  13. Bitty is right! Also the transfer case for the Coleman turns too slow. The Dana I have is about 15.5 to 1 ratio. It still doesn’t give me the 1-2% lead on the front so I need to make a means of correcting it and provide a way of engaging disengaging the front axle.
  14. I blame this forum alcohol and eBay! project was going to be a b series after seeing some nice conversions on here. then the c was purchased from eBay. It was supposed to be a relatively cheap conversion but there’s no such thing! I got a bit carried away with things Dana axle for front wheel assist made a front bolster to mount the axle 3588 transfer case to drive it ( I still need to make some sort of gearbox to match front and rear ratio) Got new 20.8-38 tears and new rims new front 13.6-24 and new rims adapter plate and flywheel are done new frame rails the list goes on! Still planning On making a structural oil pan hoping to start putting it all together in the summer if all goes to plan when all that’s done I suppose il have to think about upgrading the ta and transmission Note to self. Stop reading this forum!!!! It’s addictive! I will post pics when I’m a bit further ahead with the project
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