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About VortecZ

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  • Birthday 04/12/1977

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    Connersville, IN

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  1. I also want to give everyone a warning out there about the Case IH decals. They must be changing suppliers or something but my decals on the left and right don't match. Both sides look good and everyone says you can't see both sides at the same time but some of us are very picky. Look at the photos and see the difference in the silver/black fade. The LH side fades exactly the same as my brother's all original 7220 so I'm sure that is the "correct" side. The RH side is wrong. These were both ordered at the local dealer and came in sealed CNH boxes so I don't think there is anything fishy with it. Also the quality of both were the same and very good. One more thing, if you look really close at the corners by the headlight, you can see the RH side is rounded and the LH is cut square and sharp. I noticed the corners before I put them on but wasn't worried about it. I didn't notice the fade difference until it was too late. It's annoying to me. I haven't decided if it bothers me enough to go very far with my complaint but thought you all should be aware. I guess it serves me right for putting the wrong for my serial number "CASE IH" decals on instead of the "CASE INTERNATIONAL" like it is supposed to have. Mine is a 1995 and they switched logos in 1996.
  2. No, the parts you get in a cab kit have held up remarkably well. It is kind of odd how good those panels look but I did have to replace three pieces of console. It was almost $1k for those parts from Case IH but I did it anyway. I was afraid junk yard parts would be brittle like mine were. I am not very pleased about the colors of those new parts though. I don't have any good pics but the shades of gray didn't match each other or the other originals. So now I have several shades of gray but at least there are no more cracks. I recovered the seat in red faux leather several years ago and made a little buddy seat for it several years ago. I'm thinking about having it professionally done with real leather next time.
  3. Getting new front tires today and whenever the weather cooperates, I'll take some good pics outside. I tried a new-to-me paint this time. Southern Polyurethane Inc.. I used their clear coat on a tractor I painted for a neighbor and really liked it. They don't sell very many base coat colors at all but their "dark red" is a close to perfect match for the later model Internationals. I was very impressed with it and plan to continue to use it. It is a quarter of the price of the good stuff at my PPG dealer.
  4. And here is what it looks like now:
  5. Thought I would share my latest project. Just did a relatively quick repaint on my Case IH Magnum 7230. This pic was taken just this past fall during harvest. Very typical fading from setting out in the sun most of it's life.
  6. Where to find them? Salvage yards. Square or round? I think either are accepted as correct. Mine started out with cheap aftermarket flashers. When I restored it, I did some research with the same questions in mind. I found several sales brochures of different years thinking that would be the answer and all I came up with was more conflicting information. I even found one brochure (can't remember exactly which one now) that had both styles in the same brochure. Maybe someone else on here knows the truth by my speculation is IH used which ever one they were getting the best deal on at the time. I could not find any new ones that were exactly like the originals. I went to the dealer and they are not the same. My John Deere 9600 combine has the exact same "correct" flashers on it too so I went to the Deere dealer and still no luck. They both just have a similar replacement. I ended up finding some super nice round ones from a salvage yard. IH and Deere both used them all the way up into the 1990s on various equipment/implements. Probably others too. I didn't have much trouble finding them at all. Even almost pulled a set off of an old round baler. I did repaint the black on mine and put led bulbs in them with a solid state flasher module running them. Not much effort to get them looking nicer than brand new cheap ones. Its worth it.
  7. The problem with spraying clear over single stage is that the manufacturers don't have good test data because that's not what it was designed for. I talked to a PPG rep about it and he said there is a time window that you need to hit but cannot tell you exactly what that is. The single stage paint needs to dry before putting clear over the top of it. As it drys, it releases gasses that would get trapped by the clear, causing it to haze up and eventually peel. But, if you let it dry for too long, the clear will not bond well, and again, eventually peel. The other option is to wait a much longer time for drying then scuff or wet-sand it before clearing but that is more work and more time. So, it can be done but there's really not much of a reason to do it. If you plan to use clear-coat, just use base-coat with it. I will admit to doing this once but it was just on a gravity wagon and I thought it would be a nice thing to test. I brush painted the wagon with Rustoleum implement paint. It turned out really nice but my experience is that it fades really bad in the sun. I had some clear coat left over that was getting old and I didn't want to use it on anything really nice so I waited a few days then cleared over the Rustoleum. So far, that wagon has sat out in the sun for 3 years now and still looks as good as the day I painted it. It looks amazing for the small amount of money I have in it. Hard to say how much longer it will last though. I would never try this on a tractor because of the labor involved in getting a tractor ready and the amount of work it is to fix it if this fails.
  8. Big week for the 14! Spent the week on display with a bunch of other tractors at the county fair. Mostly green 😒 Then on Saturday had to bring it back home and get it ready with family and neighbors for the tractor pull. The one next to mine is a neighbor's 1066 with a 466 but basically stock. The next one is another neighbor's nice old 10 that my dad painted several years ago. The next one is my dad's 10 painted up like the 5 millionth. The next one is my brother's 5488, obviously pulled in a heavier class. My 1466 won the class! My driver is a high school kid that helps me out on the farm. He did a great job and had a blast.
  9. I've been painting for 18 years now and mostly PPG. It is definitely good stuff but can be very expensive. I have switched over to Matrix for the past few years and really like it. it is a little over half the price of PPG Deltron (DBC) and about the same as PPG Omni or Shopline. Part of the reason I switched was due to problems with Omni and Shopline clear coats pealing and PPG not standing behind it. I know several guys that still use it but they always put at least three or more coats of clear on. It doesn't seem to have the UV protection that the more expensive stuff has so you have to build it up more. It really depends on what you are doing with your tractor. I normally do a base/clear which is a lot of work and expense. In my opinion if you are building a show tractor, this is the only way to go. It is also the only way to go if you plan to leave the tractor out in the sun much because singe stage paints just don't seem to hold up as well in the sun. If it is a real farm tractor, and gets put in the barn when not in use, a good quality single stage is the way to go. CaseIH paint is good stuff for the price but I agree PPG Delfeet is quite a bit better. I recently painted a neighbor's show tractor with PPG DBC base coat and used a "Southern Polyurethane" clear coat. I really liked it and plan to use it again. I'm thinking about trying their base coat too and it is much much less expensive.
  10. Side dressing with the 1466. I plant with a 7230 but don't have any good pics of that.
  11. Got all the side dressing done yesterday. Thought I'd throw up a couple pics of the 14 getting her new work clothes dirty.
  12. To add a power beyond, you would need to replace your current hydraulic remote valve with one that is open on both sides. Then you add on a "power beyond" block and longer bolts. There are oem style cast iron blocks that you can still get or there are some aftermarket versions that are just a flat plate with tapped holes. Then you plumb from there to the loader valve. The way the valves are made, if you have a single remote, the valve only has o-ring ports open on one side and bolts to the manifold under the seat. If you have two remotes, the two valves are stacked together. One is the same as a single (open one side) and one has o-ring ports open on both sides so hydraulic fluid can pass through it. You can also have two valves that are open both sides with a power beyond block on the end of the stack. I was intrigued by the idea of modifying an "open one side" valve to be able to add power beyond to it. I picked up an "open both sides" valve and it certainly looks possible. The problem is that its not just a matter of drilling the holes all the way through. The holes are not round and were not machined from the factory. They are cast slots. If someone were to attempt this, I think you would just need to disassemble the valve and mill slots to match the factory dimensions. The slots are not exactly the same on both sides so you would need dimensions from an open both sides valve.
  13. Have you actually done this? I really considered doing this at one point but wasn't sure if it was really that simple or if there are anything to worry about.
  14. I have a 966 with a loader and a single remote too. I have a 3-lever loader valve hooked to that one remote. Two levers are used for the loader and the third lever runs back to an additional remote. I like the power beyond idea and have been thinking about changing to that myself. To do that, you still have to buy a remote valve that's open on both sides just like adding a second one, plus buy the power beyond plate. I think it is slightly cheaper to just add the second valve if you are trying to save a few bucks.
  15. Speaking of the steering pedestal....well kinda. I thought I would bring up the steering wheel. My original one was pretty badly cracked so I bought a reproduction and was very unhappy with it. I was disappointed to pull it out of the box and it still had mold flashing all around it and even some mold mis-match alignment issues. I probably should have sent it back but instead I sanded it down and painted it too. It turned out really nice but took a lot more work than expected. I stuck a cheap center cap on it for now but will probably change it to the correct one soon.
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