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About VortecZ

  • Birthday 04/12/1977

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    Connersville, IN

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  1. I left the main hood section because it so heavy and this way you don't have to worry about getting it out of adjustment. I left the fenders and right side cab panel on too. I thought I was saving time by leaving them on and masking around them. Of course I then had to mask those off to do the black. When I do the next one, I'll probably pull them off.
  2. Just recovered the original seat in red vinyl. I like it better than cloth but next time I do one, I'll probably try perforated vinyl just so it breathes a little more.
  3. It's just a very simple bracket welded up and bolts in using two of the existing seat bolts. The seat itself is just a board with a foam pad on it. It gave me a nice place to add a drink holder too.
  4. Finally got a decent sunny day to get the Magnum outside for some more pictures!
  5. I also want to give everyone a warning out there about the Case IH decals. They must be changing suppliers or something but my decals on the left and right don't match. Both sides look good and everyone says you can't see both sides at the same time but some of us are very picky. Look at the photos and see the difference in the silver/black fade. The LH side fades exactly the same as my brother's all original 7220 so I'm sure that is the "correct" side. The RH side is wrong. These were both ordered at the local dealer and came in sealed CNH boxes so I don't think there is anything fishy with it. Also the quality of both were the same and very good. One more thing, if you look really close at the corners by the headlight, you can see the RH side is rounded and the LH is cut square and sharp. I noticed the corners before I put them on but wasn't worried about it. I didn't notice the fade difference until it was too late. It's annoying to me. I haven't decided if it bothers me enough to go very far with my complaint but thought you all should be aware. I guess it serves me right for putting the wrong for my serial number "CASE IH" decals on instead of the "CASE INTERNATIONAL" like it is supposed to have. Mine is a 1995 and they switched logos in 1996.
  6. No, the parts you get in a cab kit have held up remarkably well. It is kind of odd how good those panels look but I did have to replace three pieces of console. It was almost $1k for those parts from Case IH but I did it anyway. I was afraid junk yard parts would be brittle like mine were. I am not very pleased about the colors of those new parts though. I don't have any good pics but the shades of gray didn't match each other or the other originals. So now I have several shades of gray but at least there are no more cracks. I recovered the seat in red faux leather several years ago and made a little buddy seat for it several years ago. I'm thinking about having it professionally done with real leather next time.
  7. Getting new front tires today and whenever the weather cooperates, I'll take some good pics outside. I tried a new-to-me paint this time. Southern Polyurethane Inc.. I used their clear coat on a tractor I painted for a neighbor and really liked it. They don't sell very many base coat colors at all but their "dark red" is a close to perfect match for the later model Internationals. I was very impressed with it and plan to continue to use it. It is a quarter of the price of the good stuff at my PPG dealer.
  8. And here is what it looks like now:
  9. Thought I would share my latest project. Just did a relatively quick repaint on my Case IH Magnum 7230. This pic was taken just this past fall during harvest. Very typical fading from setting out in the sun most of it's life.
  10. Where to find them? Salvage yards. Square or round? I think either are accepted as correct. Mine started out with cheap aftermarket flashers. When I restored it, I did some research with the same questions in mind. I found several sales brochures of different years thinking that would be the answer and all I came up with was more conflicting information. I even found one brochure (can't remember exactly which one now) that had both styles in the same brochure. Maybe someone else on here knows the truth by my speculation is IH used which ever one they were getting the best deal on at the time. I could not find any new ones that were exactly like the originals. I went to the dealer and they are not the same. My John Deere 9600 combine has the exact same "correct" flashers on it too so I went to the Deere dealer and still no luck. They both just have a similar replacement. I ended up finding some super nice round ones from a salvage yard. IH and Deere both used them all the way up into the 1990s on various equipment/implements. Probably others too. I didn't have much trouble finding them at all. Even almost pulled a set off of an old round baler. I did repaint the black on mine and put led bulbs in them with a solid state flasher module running them. Not much effort to get them looking nicer than brand new cheap ones. Its worth it.
  11. Big week for the 14! Spent the week on display with a bunch of other tractors at the county fair. Mostly green ? Then on Saturday had to bring it back home and get it ready with family and neighbors for the tractor pull. The one next to mine is a neighbor's 1066 with a 466 but basically stock. The next one is another neighbor's nice old 10 that my dad painted several years ago. The next one is my dad's 10 painted up like the 5 millionth. The next one is my brother's 5488, obviously pulled in a heavier class. My 1466 won the class! My driver is a high school kid that helps me out on the farm. He did a great job and had a blast.
  12. Side dressing with the 1466. I plant with a 7230 but don't have any good pics of that.
  13. Got all the side dressing done yesterday. Thought I'd throw up a couple pics of the 14 getting her new work clothes dirty.
  14. To add a power beyond, you would need to replace your current hydraulic remote valve with one that is open on both sides. Then you add on a "power beyond" block and longer bolts. There are oem style cast iron blocks that you can still get or there are some aftermarket versions that are just a flat plate with tapped holes. Then you plumb from there to the loader valve. The way the valves are made, if you have a single remote, the valve only has o-ring ports open on one side and bolts to the manifold under the seat. If you have two remotes, the two valves are stacked together. One is the same as a single (open one side) and one has o-ring ports open on both sides so hydraulic fluid can pass through it. You can also have two valves that are open both sides with a power beyond block on the end of the stack. I was intrigued by the idea of modifying an "open one side" valve to be able to add power beyond to it. I picked up an "open both sides" valve and it certainly looks possible. The problem is that its not just a matter of drilling the holes all the way through. The holes are not round and were not machined from the factory. They are cast slots. If someone were to attempt this, I think you would just need to disassemble the valve and mill slots to match the factory dimensions. The slots are not exactly the same on both sides so you would need dimensions from an open both sides valve.
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