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About oldihdsl

  • Birthday 05/25/1941

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    Keeping the tractors running.

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  1. Hydrostatic trans oil level requires trans to be filled so that oil is spilling out plug in front case. Hydrostatic!. A level for other transmissions in those tractors of same breed require the engine to be run at 1200 to 1500 rpm and then shut off and the oil level checked on the left side dipstick and if you study the book it will tell you that the oil level must drop DOWN to the mark specified and there is a good reason for this. There are 3 oil levels in a normal tractor of the breed. In the start up you will have one oil level in the rear end where the differential is, one oil level in the center compartment that runs a small gerrotor pump that has a screen on it and it's only purpose in life is to keep the differential full of oil and the MCV pump full of oil. And the third function is to keep the oil level at a level that keeps the level at a point to keep the oil from sucking horsepower do to the geartrain being buried in oil. Due to the tractors being used in both farm and industrial versions it was soon discovered that the best oil level for a farm tractor was if you mounted a loader was add 5 gallons of oil to it because the factory fill was to scratch a new oil level mark on the dipstick.. So there you have the source of the confusion and why there are tractors ]of the breed that will suddenly stop and several minutes later take off again, Because that little pump is shot and not so much fun too replace. And why folks keep adding oil As far as back hoes you must place all cylinders in a <no chrome showing> position a All cylinders retracted. Unless they touch the ground due to travel restrictions.
  2. Don't much care where the wires are / were it ran for 5 years and then quit keep it simple. Pull the distributor cap and have a helper spin the engine over and you look in at the distributor, Is it turning? It better be. while the cap is off use a volt meter and with the ground secure take the other lead and follow the lead stopping at every screwed connection and make sure you have 12 volts at every splice. And don't forget the dollar bill between the points.
  3. You should be aware that a large amount of time and Paper service bulletins were generated on this subject. I think I have most of the service bulletins. Send a P M with your address and I will look for them. The problem will not be corrected because it is not readily apparent and it involves plugging the input shaft after removing an o-ring.
  4. The belly pump is the one and only for steering, brakes, hitch, pto, oil level, and a loader if so equipped. The small inspection cover in hitch cover ( under the seat ) if you look inside you will see a stinger sticking out of the draft control valve that has a Very small allen screw in the end of it. That unloads the hitch depending on position selected. You may want to see if the screw fell out. If working in that area use retention methods to keep hold of the wrench and allen screw like fitting a small diameter vac.. hose over the wrench and a tough pc. of string over the wrench to keep from spending hours with a magnet. Good luck
  5. Fuel filters and clean fuel solve most problems along with a good work out. A good pump man is worth his weight in new pumps / gold. A B S pump man is not worth anything.. I will not get into stories but I was a factory rep with 42 years service and long ago after one and a half days waiting patiently for gods gift to put his blessing after 3 tear downs on a certified Bosche calibration stand And the tech having given up and went home to bed I noticed air bubbles in the feed line. I asked the pump gu rhu if he would ever get it calibrated with a fresh supply of air feeding to it. He then sheepishly opened the door on the pump stand to reveal a serious condition called pump stand low on fuel.
  6. oldihdsl,

    Can you look at my post and point me in the right direction?


    282D engine trouble in a 706 Farmall


    1. oldihdsl


      Will take a look and respond.

  7. Yes I would be interested in a manual .

  8. You have to have a good understanding on this system. First is a pressure check. laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the clutch bell housing you will see a small sheet metal cover and just to the rear of it there is a much larger cast iron plate held on with a hand full of bolts and this plate holds all the parts that supply oil to the shuttle assy. In that plate there is a plug that when removed a pressure gauge can be installed 300 psi. With the tractor warmed up you can shuttle it back and forth and observe the gauge while shuttle shifting and doing this at different engine speeds and also while holding a remote valve on high pressure. You should record your different readings for further trouble shooting. That plug is an oddball thread so get the right fitting. The oil flow is as follows. Main pump bolted to back of MCV = multiple control valve also called massive confusion valve. 15 to 18 GPM + or - First job is to expose it to a 2.7 GPM leak in a priority flow divider ,bottom edge of MCV casting, below filter canister. This 2.7 GPM is constant (to a point) as when the engine is reved up and main pump GPM increases the priority spool is moved a little further to pass the excess flow into the hitch, loader, and aux. hydraulics and when you idle tractor back the priority valve with the aid of a heavy spring closes the leak off to maintain the integrity of the 2.7GPM leak. Second = the 2.7 GPM is sent out to the steering hand pump that is an equal disp. system so if you are turning the wheel and sending 1.5 gpm into one side of the steering cylinder there is 1.5 gpm coming back from the other side. Third= the 2.7 GPM coming out (return from steering) is sent to a fitting at the right , front corner of the speed transmission where it is directed down to that iron plate you screwed a gauge into earlier. fourth= The forward and reverse clutch is not supposed to have any leaks in it (hah) so when the circuit is satisfied the 2.7 GPM is directed back out the top of the speed trans and back to the narrow front side of the MCV valve where it is sent to the PTO control and fifth= when the PTO is satisfied the 2.7nGPM is exposed to a Oil Cooler Bypass valve that protects the cooler circuit in cold start conditions. sixth= The flow is sent from the MCV all the way to the front of the tractor into the oil cooler and seventh= On it's return from the cooler it is exposed to the Brake Keep Fill system which is a small constant leak off and eighth= What the keep fill can't handle is directed back to the speed trans for pressure lube of some trans bearings and ninth= What it cant use there it is directed thru internal plumbing back to the rear end to replenish oil supply and lube the pinion gear. NOW , If the tractor has MFD you have to tee that into the 2.7 loop. Should have 250 - 270 PSI at the plate. At idle or wide open your pressure should remain constant except during directional changes. Bad news if the pressure is snappy into reverse and malingers going into forward and or stays substantialy lower on the forward side. There should be no difference. And if you need a service manual I have good factory manuals avail. Send me a PM and we can discuss.
  9. Send me a PM with your phone number and best time and I will call you.
  10. Noticed on one of your updates that you might be interested in a service manual for the 585 

    I have a complete factory manual avail if you are interested. Send me a pm if you are.

  11. Keith, If you care to send me a PM with a phone number and best time I will call you and we can discuss your problem.
  12. NO! Do not pull the MCV yet. The oil flow from the MCV is as follows First the main 15 GPM (nominal) pushes all flow against the Flow divider in the bottom of the MCV and anything over the 2.5 to 3.0 GPM is directed out the big line at the back lower side and sent on to the loader and backhoe etcc. Now it gets interesting. That 2.5 to 3.0 GPM that made it thru the priority flow divider is directed out the fitting an the face of the MCV and out to steering and the return from steering is directed to the front right side top corner of the speed transmission where it is directed to a down tube that (depending on ser. number) feeds the return flow into a small hydraulic pump Early prod. or a Valve block (latr prod.) and either one of them direct the flow to the orward and reverse clutch but the clutch is a sealed (so to speak ) unit that when a pack is full the same volume of oil is left over and spills into a return pipe that comes back out the top of the trans. and is then sent back to the MCV where it is directed to the PTO portion of PTO control but in your case the uunit is not equipped with PYO so it is exprange trans to provide lube to speed trans main shaft and into the rear diosed to a oil Cooler relief valve and then out the fitting at the top left side of the MCV where it is sent out to the front of the tractor to the oil cooler and after leaving the cooler is directed back to the differential for lube with a small diversion on it's route to feed the keep fill function for the brakes. SO! You have a very busy 2.5 to 3.0 GPM And the trouble spot on it's trip is I suspect the forward and reverse clutch which will require a service manual. Two Questions? On the plate on the bottom of the speed trans. is there a gear pump or a valve block. Two- Where are you located? PS: It would be hardd for me to believe that there are very many 3400 / 3500 tractors arround that have never had a failure in this area.
  13. When you put the new pump in DID YOU USE TWO (2) GASKETS on the MCV. ie: one for the MCV to rear frame and one for the sandwich plate? In answer to your question ; could the pilot valve cause everything not too work? It should not cause the steering to not work. The first thing the pump flow see's is the PRIORITY flow divider in that it uses ALL of the flow up to the first 2 gallon + or - and then everything over the 2 gallon is exposed to the pilot relief valve. The sandwich plate gasket question MUST be answered first and then we go from there.
  14. As previously stated, You have 1 main pump serving 3 or more functions and 1 function works fine with emphasis on fine, would indicate pump is OK. Pump pick up tube broken? See 1st paragraph and by the way the pick up supply is part of the rear frame casting as the pump sucks it's oil from the differential area however make up oil is fed back to the main pump thru the lowermost of the two large hoses at the lower rear , back side of the MCV with one being main flow out and the other being main pump supercharge. Can the new pump affect noise level, certainly the variance of flow will stabilize or destabilize valves and poppets in the system but not render them useless.
  15. The poppet goes in with the bullet shaped end 1st, Then the spring goes into the rear side of the poppet and then the small retainer / cup that keeps the spring from getting washed out of place. Your air problem could be due to the referenced poppet being in backwards.
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