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About oldihdsl

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/25/1941

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    Keeping the tractors running.

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  1. problems with my 3pt lift

    Refer to last page of last transmittal. _ The last page shows the spring,p lunger, and an excellent side view cutawav of your sensor. the top inspection cover under the seat gives some view, Caution! don't mess with any valves. I suspect the spring is either broken or dislodged or the spool is stuck. Get a manual before proceeding.
  2. 282D engine trouble in a 706 Farmall

    330 to 380 PSI from the IH spec book. You need to look at the timing as you can get someone messing with the trimming screws and you won't ever get enough money to pay for burnt pistons and the likes. All the knocking you describe points you in that direction.
  3. Case 1845C hydraulic issues

    I have a service manual for this machine. If interested send a PM.
  4. Valve lash

    Magnetic base dial indicator is no big deal and will answer your valve lift question. A bad cam lobe can be picked up by an unusual sound with the engine running,
  5. Pilot Bearing Issue

    Clean the race, Both surfaces and lightly coat the two surfaces with Loc-Tite retaining compound "Cat - Cummins - CNH - NAPA - the key is RETAINING COMPOUND. It won't turn on you anymore and you will have to heat it slightly to remove.
  6. After you have it spinning for several minutes take a 50 / 50 mixture of gasoline and Marvel Mystery Oil in a squirt can and give it a shot and repeat if necc.
  7. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    Just be sure you DO NOT mix up the two screens as one is coarse mesh and goes in the rear housing and the forward screen is noticeably finer for the Hydro static. If they are both fine mesh that is OK. Also you can change the rear filter to twice the filtration capacity if you install a C series filter ( Go to a McCormick dealer) and buy a filter, Filter Canister, and Bolt.
  8. Yes I would be interested in a manual .

  9. Checking IPTO pressure

    http://The orifice is used as a brake to keep shock loads to a minimum.
  10. Case IH 485 shuttle shift problems

    You have to have a good understanding on this system. First is a pressure check. laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the clutch bell housing you will see a small sheet metal cover and just to the rear of it there is a much larger cast iron plate held on with a hand full of bolts and this plate holds all the parts that supply oil to the shuttle assy. In that plate there is a plug that when removed a pressure gauge can be installed 300 psi. With the tractor warmed up you can shuttle it back and forth and observe the gauge while shuttle shifting and doing this at different engine speeds and also while holding a remote valve on high pressure. You should record your different readings for further trouble shooting. That plug is an oddball thread so get the right fitting. The oil flow is as follows. Main pump bolted to back of MCV = multiple control valve also called massive confusion valve. 15 to 18 GPM + or - First job is to expose it to a 2.7 GPM leak in a priority flow divider ,bottom edge of MCV casting, below filter canister. This 2.7 GPM is constant (to a point) as when the engine is reved up and main pump GPM increases the priority spool is moved a little further to pass the excess flow into the hitch, loader, and aux. hydraulics and when you idle tractor back the priority valve with the aid of a heavy spring closes the leak off to maintain the integrity of the 2.7GPM leak. Second = the 2.7 GPM is sent out to the steering hand pump that is an equal disp. system so if you are turning the wheel and sending 1.5 gpm into one side of the steering cylinder there is 1.5 gpm coming back from the other side. Third= the 2.7 GPM coming out (return from steering) is sent to a fitting at the right , front corner of the speed transmission where it is directed down to that iron plate you screwed a gauge into earlier. fourth= The forward and reverse clutch is not supposed to have any leaks in it (hah) so when the circuit is satisfied the 2.7 GPM is directed back out the top of the speed trans and back to the narrow front side of the MCV valve where it is sent to the PTO control and fifth= when the PTO is satisfied the 2.7nGPM is exposed to a Oil Cooler Bypass valve that protects the cooler circuit in cold start conditions. sixth= The flow is sent from the MCV all the way to the front of the tractor into the oil cooler and seventh= On it's return from the cooler it is exposed to the Brake Keep Fill system which is a small constant leak off and eighth= What the keep fill can't handle is directed back to the speed trans for pressure lube of some trans bearings and ninth= What it cant use there it is directed thru internal plumbing back to the rear end to replenish oil supply and lube the pinion gear. NOW , If the tractor has MFD you have to tee that into the 2.7 loop. Should have 250 - 270 PSI at the plate. At idle or wide open your pressure should remain constant except during directional changes. Bad news if the pressure is snappy into reverse and malingers going into forward and or stays substantialy lower on the forward side. There should be no difference. And if you need a service manual I have good factory manuals avail. Send me a PM and we can discuss.
  11. 1620 combine fuel pump timing

    Remember, Injection system IS a HYDRAULIC system and needs a relief valve, In your case you have six ( 6 ) relief valves, the injectors. Suspect nozzle at location of leak is plugged. It won't do you any good to have the pump seal ring for the head replaced without having the nozzles done over. Suggest you have them all done. If it blows again you may have a bad line that is breaking up.
  12. 1620 combine fuel pump timing

    By the way, Why are you pulling the pump off? What is it doing? And I have a service manual if you are interested.
  13. 1620 combine fuel pump timing

    Remove small cover at front of engine and rotate engine with all nozzle lines cracked loose and while looking in at the drive gear keep turning engine over until you see the drive key coming up to 10:00 o'clock and at this point align the pointer on the front cover with the correct degree setting scribed on the pulley. Remove the nut on the drive hub, remove three bolts that secure hub to pump drive gear and install puller remove all the lines and the nuts that secure pump housing to engine timing cover, fuel supply and return lines etc. and tighten the puller until it pops and the pump can be lifted off. To reinstall the pump service should have it locked at number one and if no one disturbed it the pointer will still be on the correct degree mark on the pulley and it will be good to go after reassembly or iff you disturbed it there is a tool a dial indicator assembly to get it back in sync. People will tell you to smack the pump drive shaft with a hammer but that won't fly on my pump.