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Super A_sepa

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Super A_sepa last won the day on May 6 2018

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    Southeastern Pa
  • Interests
    Farming... Tobacco growing...Anything IH... FFA

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  1. If I have it right from what I had researched, going into the top of the filter will not be a true 0 pressure return like some newer planters etc need. It is low pressure but not quite 0, I think it is under 30 psi or so. To have a true 0 that would return under oil surface you had to tee into the line on the plate below the park pawl. When I put mine on my magnum at that plate I just capped the line with a plastic cover and that held it, not a lot of pressure to it and I didn't feel like draining all the oil. I capped it because mine is a euro tractor with the brake valve that returns there already and I drilled and tapped the T for an elbow. An American tractor you can probably just cap the T and switch lines fast enough to lose a minimal amount of oil. Or drain it. I don't know if you can go in end plate. The line that you tee in does go to the end plate if I'm remembering right.
  2. Ours has dug a lot of material, more than some make it sound possible with. Dad runs it pretty much, I've ran it some, not a huge fan of the 4 stick setup like was said. We pretty much always ran it on the 666 but have thought about putting it on our 544Hydro utility too but haven't yet. It definitely beats a shovel. Definitely slops/jerks/bucks around just being on the 3pt but you get used to it I thought. It's sure saved a lot of work around this place and wouldn't want to be without it but it wouldn't replace a real backhoe I don't think.
  3. Turbo it. M and W or spend a little more money and find a 1256 set up. Would make a nice difference.
  4. https://lancaster.craigslist.org/grd/d/saylorsburg-ih-row-front-mounted/7339392356.html Happened on this set on the local Craigslist but I see they are for like a 300-450. I'm not sure if they'd be adaptable to the newer tractors or not. Theyre not pretty looking but maybe they are somewhat sound I don't know.
  5. I always thought if I grew a bunch more tobacco and cultivated it I would find a front mount 4 row and make it a 2 row for my 544D NF Hydro. Comfortable, any speed to cultivate, easier to steer than a C I think with the cultivators on, still 4 cylinder. But I like working with no till tobacco and I don't cultivate or grow that much so whatever I do cultivate I use my Super C.
  6. The I-1456 I worked on with a factory cab did not have the lights in the grill either. I think they look better without but I grew up in row crop country so that's what I'm used to.
  7. Yep for sure. About all there was in the first post was a hood and side panels. The rest makes a much more complete story. I'm glad it's being saved and it will look much better in yesterdays tractors classifieds when it is bolted back to its original rear end. But it is true like TP said the rarer it is the more scrutiny there will be. I'm glad some folks like the wheatlands because I wouldn't want to farm with them here. Wear out too fast and never seen the turn radius as any better, most worse. Wobbly down the road at least on our roads in here. I know they have their place. I know it is the missing piece to someone's collection but just because it's rare does not make it valuable to me personally. Will be nice to see it back in working order.
  8. Not yet. Though it might be pretty well till all the work of going through the Hydro and bolting it back together right. Lot of little details to get right going back to "factory" from some cheap farmer fix although if all is on the back half on skids that helps.
  9. I'm not sure I would spend too much time in trying to make that fender perfect. I like original fenders but that one is gonna take some work. I had originals on my 826 and when I painted it I put new ones on it and my 756 from Abilene Machine. The yellow ones. They are the right width and weight I think, maybe slightly heavier than the originals. I think the lights might be further up in the fender which would probably be noticeable if they were mismatched on a tractor. A&I fenders have a nice paint ready finish but there's no hiding being .75 of an inch too narrow. Abilenes take some sanding to take out primer runs but I think they are a better fender. Have had some sets come through the shop that are not as nice as the rest, not sure what was up with them. The originals from my 826 went on a 1456 so they aren't around anymore. Some pictures for comparison, not sure if you can see what you want to see or not. 756 826 with originals 826 with new fenders
  10. Exactly. I'm not sure why that is so hard to understand. But then here you're trying to explain that to people that forget their tractor needs oil because their horse doesn't...
  11. The only thing we have seen around here with the spring loaded park is they are quicker to knock a reverse tooth off it seems because of how they drop. When that tooth came off versus when the update was installed is hard to measure but that seems to be the general pattern that those with it more often have teeth off than those that don't, because the adjustment rod will bend. We have both of them at home and I don't prefer one over the other, but there aren't many monkeys running my tractors to mess them up either. As far as popping out of high range, I just replaced the shift fork and collar on an 856 that would not stay in. Good detents, made certain it was getting full travel, (above and below the cover) but it took the collar to finally take care of the problem. The old one had some wear but was not what I would have called ground to bits.
  12. Have used Miller Diesel in Harrisburg and been pleased with their work.
  13. Federal Mogul should be every bit as good as the Mahle parts. Sounds like a great option.
  14. Some neat things on that one. But I wish I could find those steering knobs still. Everyone loves the irrigation pump ones but these are my favorite. We have a 706 with a 310 and an M&W on it that is a good runner, I imagine a 358 would be even better. I'd like to find an 826 Hydro to put a turboed 360 in sometime.
  15. If you could find the clevite number that would be best. I'm not sure if they have a way of crossing the IH number. If you ask them about bearings for a C113 they could probably find the number too but if you find it you know what it is. Amish machine shop is a thing here, have almost Amish everything it seems in this area.
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