Super A_sepa

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Super A_sepa last won the day on May 6

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About Super A_sepa

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    Advanced Member

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    Southeastern Pa
  • Interests
    Farming... Tobacco growing...Anything IH... FFA

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  1. Super A_sepa

    IH 780 High Boy Sprayer

    Any links or pictures? I got into growing tobacco last year and have been looking for a reasonable high clear sprayer. Being IH would just be icing on the cake.
  2. Super A_sepa

    Hydro 100 for hauling

    They are all we use, 2 100 Hydros and sometimes a 666 or 656 if we get into a pinch. They are nice for doing that, smooth.
  3. Super A_sepa

    Favorite Other Brand Of Tractor

    Maybe because its the only other brand I've spent much time on, but I always look forward to getting to run these during harvest. Maybe that's just because I'm happy to have a somewhat quiet cab that hopefully has ac and maybe even a radio. 4430, 4440, 4450, and a 4630, all have their good points and bad points. Then again, we have used some magnums on the carts and I'd much rather run that, but a little variety never hurt.
  4. Super A_sepa

    686 312 vs 756 310?

    It was out of a hydro 70.
  5. Super A_sepa

    686 312 vs 756 310?

    Maybe I should get some 726 badges made! That would make it stand out LOL! Here is the link to the thread I just put up on the projects board with some more pictures and details.
  6. I was looking for a tractor to do small jobs mostly involving raising tobacco. Something to spray pre-plant, pull the planter, move wagons in the field, etc. I was leaning towards a 666 to get the 312 as i didn't want a gasser and didnt want a 282. Then I found a 756 that was getting antifreeze in the oil, and had the idea to put a 312 in it. This was the tractor before I started, it was in pretty good shape but it wasn't the way I wanted it to be. I don't think the German is a bad engine, it's just not my first choice. So I started tearing it apart and got the engine out and the 312 in. I got a 400 series rear plate and had a welding shop cut it down to match the narrower bell housing. Got a 966 clutch and flywheel and bolted that up and hung the motor on the tractor. Once I did that I learned that I had a larger project than I anticipated. Then I tore it down a put a set of sleeves and pistons in it. Along the way it got a new radiator as mine didn't look too healthy, new water pump, sleeves and pistons, sent the head off to be gone through and cleaned out, new injectors, new fenders, new clutch assembly, and a new wiring harness. I should note that a 756 wiring harness is what I used even though I changed engines, and it worked and I only had to change one or two wires I think. I used 666 upper and lower radiator hoses and they were just right. I changed over to the new style alternator while I was at it and the harness was set up for that. I got the harness from Brillman and I was happy with it. I used the crossover throttle linkage that a big frame 66 series has that crosses over behind the starter. That took a little practice to get in the right position to get the amount of travel that I wanted. This linkage interfered with the German's either assist, so I used the 312's setup and extended the wires on the wiring harness to reach to the air cleaner where the 312's is mounted. The 312 front mount holes do not line up with any of the holes in the frame rails, so I cut new holes then put a plate on and welded that to the frame rail to hold everything in position. I put the tractor all together and ran it some and then went to put the sheet metal back on it. Then came the next problem. The hoods wouldn't line up. Then I measured the rear plates and found the German plate is 5/8" thicker, to take care of that issue, Ed Leaman had a set of spacers that were machined just for a case like this. Once I put them in the hoods fit perfectly. The hood off a 312 powered small frame tractor is just right to fit on the 756 and you need it because of the air cleaner door bubble. This one just has the pre-cleaner on it because I didn't get to take it off yet. I had to take a little more material out of the rear support of the wide front so it had enough clearance around the oil pan. So far I really like the tractor. We had it on the dyno and it showed 80 hp. Here it is next to our 706 with the 310 with an M&W turbo on it. It is a nice running motor but I'm still happy to have a 312 in my 756. Maybe I'll find a turbo setup to put on mine but it's not high on the list.
  7. Super A_sepa

    686 312 vs 756 310?

    I'll try to put something together in the next few days on the swap. Hopefully this weekend. Finally got weather to chop rye and plant corn so it has been pretty busy here the last while. I have a number of photos to share with you guys I just haven't gotten a chance to put them together yet.
  8. Super A_sepa

    686 312 vs 756 310?

    Also to add to Matt's list: Dual pto An actual "park" Not saying that all makes it better than a 686, they are really handy little tractors, just all of that makes it more versatile.
  9. Super A_sepa

    686 312 vs 756 310?

    I compromised and put the 312 in a 756. Just finished it up and got to put it in the field last week. So far so good.
  10. Super A_sepa

    856 narrow front! Anyone have one?

    We have an 806 with a narrow front, bought new, but it's not very original anymore. Love it anyhow. It pulled an 800 8 row all over then retired from planting when we went to 30" rows. Now it mostly just plows snow, and wears a Year a Round cab. The more recent photo is from this summer when we had the cab off to do some work on it and I painted the sheet metal at that time and had to snap a few pictures. I love big frame narrow fronts!
  11. Super A_sepa

    allis 190 narrow front?

    It was just the NF post and it brought 10k even. I was there and watched it and couldn't believe it either.
  12. Super A_sepa

    How bout some good ole Kentucky tobacco

    Around here it is all done by hand. I believe in the south there might be some but won't claim to know much about how it is done down there.
  13. Super A_sepa

    How bout some good ole Kentucky tobacco

    Here are some from various stages of tobacco here in PA. A close look at the finger-type planter we use. Each plant is started in a bed or a greenhouse then transplanted into the field. I had an acre of no till tobacco to experiment with this year. Here is a picture of cultivating some conventional tobacco. Though the summer we go through and hand hoe each row to get any weeds that the cultivator missed. As the tobacco matures and starts to push flower, you have to go through and break the tops out of each plant, this forces the plant to put more energy into filling out the leaves that are there instead of making new ones, resulting in bigger leaves, which you want so that when you strip over winter you have leaves big enough to sort out as 'wrappers,' the highest paying leaf grade of PA tobacco. About 3 weeks after topping it is time to cut. We use shears and cut each plant off at the ground. We let it lay to wilt before we spear it. How long we let it lay depends on the intensity of the sun and the size of the tobacco. Once it's wilted, we go back and spear each stalk onto a lath, 5 per lath . After spearing, we pick each lath up and load them on to a ladder wagon, just a running gear with two long rails. We use these to be gentler on the leaves and not bust them up as much as just a flat wagon would. Then each lath is pitched one by one up into the barn and hung on rails to cure down. Like was said above, the top is the place to be! Some days at least, its the hottest and the riskiest, but you don't get any dirt or sweat falling down on you, or any stalks that split off the lath and fall, and you don't have to pitch the lath up two tiers to the next man. There isn't much harder work than pitching up big tobacco. And once all the 'fun' is done of harvesting, you get to get ready to take each lath down by hand in a few weeks to strip it, where you have to take each leaf off every stalk. For PA tobacco to sort out wrappers you have to open each leaf and inspect it for any imperfections that exclude it from being a wrapper. Then get done stripping and a few weeks later get ready to seed the greenhouse and start the whole process over again.
  14. Super A_sepa

    Cordless Impact driver Milwaukee or Snap On??

    We bought a Snap-On 1/2" maybe 5-7 years ago, thought that was really good. Needed it for this one bolt that no amount of heating or leverage would take care of. I think we went through a battery and some run time trying to get that bolt, but it got it then. Once we had it, we kept finding uses for it, and it was handy. About two years ago we got a Dewalt 1/2" and a Milwaukee 3/4" Fuel. Didn't notice the Dewalt had a pin to keep sockets on so I put an adapter on the Milwaukee abd used that and got used to it. Never went back to the Dewalt. Very impressed with the power of the Milwaukee. Dad tried to change a pickup tire with the Snap on the other week, maybe the batteries are close to dead, maybe the batteries are wore out, I can't say, but he said that thing didn't seem to have anything than he tried the Milwaukee the next time and that had power! We have the 4.0ah batteries, they do run a very long time, and you can see how much they have left which is nice.
  15. Super A_sepa

    300 farmall question

    SJ is I think Rockford clutch and TA with provision for live PTO, at least that's what's sticking in my mind. If you do a search on here I think you might find it. We have a 300 with and without a tach but I can't say if the one with it came factory that way but I think it did. What's the serial number on the tractor?