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Super A_sepa

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Super A_sepa last won the day on May 6 2018

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About Super A_sepa

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    Male
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    Southeastern Pa
  • Interests
    Farming... Tobacco growing...Anything IH... FFA

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  1. The aftermarket undersize steering arms usually get tight enough to have to drive down the last little bit and take most all of the play out from what I've seen.
  2. Super A_sepa

    Reamer

    What fails on the 66 setup that the 86 is that much different?
  3. Yes & yes. Or just swap the tip on the implement if all your tractors have IH couplers.
  4. No neutral switch on the shifter on anything before the last half ish of the 86's but they would have all had the clutch switch. And that switch sensed if the tractor was in park, it still had the clutch switch too. Having it wont prevent it from starting in gear though, will just make it that you have to have the clutch pushed in to start which is a good habit anyhow. I might have a picture of the L bracket too
  5. Could set/weld one mower a half inch or so lower and overlap the blades an inch to avoid that strip in the middle... Or turn one around so it is "backwards" and they discharge oppositely even though they turn the same way. Any way you look at it it's way too much work to accomplish not much "A" for effort though.
  6. Abilene machine carries the most correct aftermarket fender and after using several sets of them I wouldn't spend the money on original fenders unless you found a good deal. On the cheap on a 56 with the factory cab platform, take a grinder and cut the raised lip off. The fenders mount rigid and dont need to be tied into the platform though the right platform and tying them in looks right when you're done.
  7. I havent done the exact same swap but thinking what I've changed from swapping a motor from a Hyrdo 70 (same design) it shouldn't be too tall of task. Some 686s would have had the 310 German so most parts you need could probably be sourced from that as well. I hadnt thought of the 544D as a source for the rear plate, but without looking it up I think it would work. You're basically going to end up with a later 686 when you're done so you can use them for inspiration and a visual. Your front cover is not going to line up, it will be wide and will need narrowed down (machined, portaband saw, angle grinder) and probably a hole drilled in your frame rails. Throttle linkage should be able to be sourced from a 686. The front plate off a 756 (with the 310) and the 826 (358) or off a 686 would give you the right width, but will need to drill holes as best I can envision it. I dont remember if dimensionally the 310 is different from the 358 in block height or not for fitting under the fuel tank. I dont think that would be a problem off the top of my head. If you need a perfect hood for when your finished with it, when I put a 312 in my 756 I got the hood off the 70 I got the motor from and kept my 756 hood and would probably sell it. I'm not sure where your exhaust hole will be at in comparison to your gas motor. I sold both Germans I pulled out of my 826 and 756 and dont remember what smaller parts from them I have left but if you have a question on something as you go someone on here should be able to help. Good luck with your project!
  8. Agreed!! I had saw it on agtalk and thought it was odd I hadn't heard about it on here till I saw it in the projects section a few days ago. I like the project section but miss the discussion that might follow in the general or coffee shop sections. I'm very interested in how this project is put together.
  9. Guess some would have an electronically engaged PTO, but on one with a handle to engage it, start the tractor and tie the fuel solenoid back, and unhook the batteries, and you'll lose cab functions (dash, fan, radio, wipers, lights, etc) and 3pt hitch control. It would run and drive fine and your remotes would be normal. You just wouldn't have a readout of how fast you were doing what or count hours.
  10. No it's not that critical and anything close will work, but why not try to make it where its supposed to be if you have to go to the trouble to make something?
  11. It could be a minor detail but a 7/8" spacer all around is what is sticking in my mind, not 15/16". But I did not measure our loaders or the brackets we have on our small frame tractors.
  12. I have a hard time picturing a gold demo being sent out with no 3 point hitch and a single front wheel... The single front would be easy enough to change but it doesnt appear to have ever had 3 pt
  13. The last several months the ones we have gotten from Riley tractor parts have fit correctly and done their job without modifying them. And they are a little darker red color than the ones that always needed a little tweaking.
  14. I love the old style IH couplers. But most all our equipment is big tips but the adapters work fine for the few things that aren't. Never had a cam break inside, etc and they've been used plenty. The rubber covers for them aren't terrible but most of ours lost off, doesnt take long to wipe them out though if they do fill up. Gets aggravating when the ISO remotes spit the hose back out our wont couple. And it isnt practical dollar wise to switch all our stuff over. As for the original topic, it looks like they were linked a few posts ago but I have also seen where guys just took a piece of flat bar and drilled a hole and just put a longer bolt or threaded rod and spacers in the top bolt that mounts the coupler and had a homemade version that way.
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