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hemlockfarms5288

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About hemlockfarms5288

  • Birthday 05/19/1989

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    York Co. Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    66 86 and 88 series tractors. Full time farmer and custom operator.

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  1. Recently replaced dual gear hydraulic pump on my '82 5288 mfwd, rexroth style. It had a lot of wear. Drained all the fluids, axle carriers and all, new filters and o rings, filter screens put in the correct way. Also rebuilt pto and both steering cylinders. Pto and regulated pressures all in spec, 245-250. Pulling disk and cultipacker yesterday and a loud vibration noise started, stops under 1300 rpm except when the clutch is pushed about an inch then stops with clutch completely to the floor. New cable, new shift coils and resealed clutch dump valve. It starts over 1500 rpm and pressing clutch wont stop it. The steel line from the rear half of pump that goes to front filter housing has a bad vibration and is the source of the noise. Pulled and currently cleaning flow divider. Could the pressure not being unloaded at higher rpm? Any help is greatly appreciated
  2. Also everything bolted right up, I did not have to drill and tap anything, but my 706 had the support already for the draw bar pin to side up in under the belly of the rear end. It is a 1964, but never had a straight draw bar from factory. We bought new in '64
  3. Hopefully I can help, I added the brackets for a draw bar and the bottom support plate and added a used draw bar. I also have a fast hitch. I can get you part numbers. Hopefully my pics help.
  4. Thanks! I'm an IH fanatic. I take a lot of pride in the equipment I have. They dont make them like they used to and I want to do my best to keep these old red tractor's around and looking like they should. The mrs told me I'm anal about my equipment.. I take it as a compliment anymore ?
  5. Here's our two farm dogs. Randy and Harley, Randy's a 4 year old Australian shepherd, and Harley is 3 years old, German shepherd border collie mix. They both love their tractor and combine rides.
  6. Its pretty straightforward.. local guy ran it through a metal band saw and took the front end off and welded a plate over the front of it. That was it. He is a very very good fabricator. He made a cap out of an old ih fuel cap we had and we put a tractor tire valve stem in the top with a gauge tee and old spray gauge and tested the pressure. No leaks so I moved forward with the project. Ed, thanks for that comment. I wouldn't have taken this project on with out you and Danny being in driving distance for knowledge and parts. Look forward to finding a 4166 for a 8.3 and a heavy TA swap.
  7. I've heard guys talk about having to do some governor work, but I didn't do a thing to the pump except have it rebuilt. The tractor has been worked and I didn't notice anything different. I'll work on getting a video posted of it running sometime.
  8. A little update on this project. I worked closely with Ed Leaman with this project, he has found a local shop to make the reduction adapters for the Cummins/Case IH Mechanical tach drive that will make the tach correct. I've been getting a lot of questions about that so they are available from Ed. We also added his canopy which I came to love and isn't noisey like i was afraid of. Any questions on this build please let me know or contact Ed for tach adapters!
  9. I plan on exhaust temp, boost, and fuel pressure for the 66 series panel, once I get some sheet metal fabbed up to cover the rear and make it flow like it should be there. As far as what it is next to a 282 or German diesel, it would walk all over them, it's double the horse power now, our guess is 160. Still have some pump tweaking to do then maybe get it on the Dyno. We have two local pulls I'd like to take it to. Not getting into major pulling. Maybe two or three hooks a year. I have a chassis decal set on the shelf that includes the "ether assist" decal for that switch. I'm the only one that knows it used to be the horn button. Again thank you all for the compliments. This was a very meaningful build for me since the tractor was in the family since brand new and I have no plans of it ever leaving.
  10. Finally had some time to finish the hoods with a couple coats of 2150 red. Not perfect but I'll let them harden for a couple months and then shoot them again. I was having trouble with starting in cold weather so I added a ether assist kit available from case Ih. Dealer had one in stock. I wired it to the factory dash button that was for a horn. Works perfectly. I mounted the canister behind the front grill by drilling and tapping two holes. All the wiring is finished, LED lights work great as always, oil pressure gauge fitted into the old glow plug gauge housing. Ed had some weight brackets that were made to mount on each side, with a pair of steps for each side also, with KM steps on the main side, I had to move the weight brackets forward and built a support frame to go between the two. I picked up everything used to put a two piece straight drawbar on this Tractor too. Just something I wanted to add because pulling with the fast hitch was always sloppy even when mounted in ridged position. I love how this tractor turned out. Thanks you to everyone for the compliments. Please is you have any questions, ask away, I want to help anyone I can. This can be a very nice project if you take the time.
  11. Just finished that project today. With the new HX35 turbo, I used a 4" "Cobra Head" elbow. It's for very tight 90° bends. Then added a metal 45° to a rubber 90° then straight to a Donaldson blue 6637 filter and mounting bracket. Then made a bracket for the filter bracket and mounted it to the front of the head right at the end of the intake housing plate. If you need more pictures let me know
  12. They're all over tractor house as far as the 5.9s out of a Maxxum or MX. Little more money but they have all the water outlets and fan hubs in the correct place. No sourcing used stuff. Sadly we were told the motor was gone through. It was, VERY POORY. Horrible head gasket job, seals thrown in place half A$$, all the rocker brackets were loose. We had to do a head gasket job and all the valves checked out. Bottom end checked out. If you're tackling the swap, the rebuild shouldn't scare you at all. Heck you're practically already there. Kits are $800 to $1000. Compression test it and plastigauge the bottom end would be my advice. Thanks for all the compliments!
  13. Yes with Ed's adapter plate, everything stays the same length. Goes together just like factory! The plate is notched out for the frame rails.
  14. Paul, I know the main necessities from Leaman's was around $3000. Motor was $1500. Maybe another grand in small things. But with all the little details and going above and beyond to do it right I probably have $6-7000 in it. That's from the new front rims and tires, new sheet metal bolts, seat, emblems, all the little details that add up quickly. But it's done right and it will last a long time. Redtop1460, my Cummins guy has the pump turned up a bit, nothing wild, we have a new HX35 waste gated turbo on the way. Not afraid of the higher hp, the whole rear end has been gone through a few years back when we had some gears fly apart lol. Thanks for the compliments!
  15. I have to give a huge thank you to Ed Leaman and Danny Mathews at Leaman Tractor Parts for all the help, my great friend and farming partner, Ethan Griffith, who was with me from start to finish on this build, and good friend Dominic Libercci, who's knowledge of a Cummins motor if far far beyond anything I could imagine and when I had about given up on starting this motor always had the answer and knew where I needed to throw money. The Tractor is finally running but there's more details to be done and some tweaking but I'll keep this post updated. I have all the part numbers and I have a lot of advice for any one wanting or in the middle of one of these builds.
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