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Found 13 results

  1. After a years work of A LOT of research, help from good friends, and more money than I intended to spend, because I wanted this tractor done the right way, no corners cut, we finally got it running and driving. So it's time to share my Farmall 706 Cummins swap. It started as a 282D, bought new in 1964, first diesel 706 tractor that Robinson Brothers sold in Delta, Pa. After three overhauls in it's life I decided the fourth time we would try something new. A call to a good friend, Ed Leaman, and I found a source for the adapter plate and flywheel. It's a good thing his place is only a half hour from our place because we made plenty of trips over the river. Here are the beginning steps of tear down, engine pull, and after it was cleaned up, we swapped out the 15.5 38's for a used set of 18.4's
  2. Southern Belle on Moonshiners

    This image was on the intro from the advertisements. I was half paying attention to the TV, but I realized what I was seeing and had to rewind it for a second look. I am guessing 706 or 806.
  3. Stiff steering on 706

    Replaced MCV and all springs and o rings in MCV. Brakeswork, TA works(TA has had handle removed and is locked in direct.) steering is very stiff. I can hear the pump whining. Tried all solutions listed on other posts. Possible bad pump? Think not since brakes work. TA starts in low and it takes a while before it changes to direct (oil light stays on until TA changes to direct-remember it’s locked in direct). TA was behaving this way before the change of pump-main reason for change. Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks in advance.
  4. The hydraulic lines in the steering column under the hand pump are leaking at or near the couplings in the steering column (not at the hand pump couplings). It’s leaking in the area of item 17 in the parts diagram. What is the best way to remove the hydraulic lines from the Mcv to the hand pump to repair or replace them?
  5. Lost 706 D

    My neighbor bought this abandoned farm and look what was sitting on it! Oil looks good and Im told it is not tight. Tried to take a picture of the SN tag but it glared to much to be read.
  6. Lost 706 D

    My neighbor bought this abandoned farm and look what was sitting on it! Oil looks good and Im told it is not tight. Tried to take a picture of the SN tag but it glared to much to be read.
  7. Lost 706 D

    My neighbor bought this abandoned farm and look what was sitting on it! Oil looks good and Im told it is not tight. Tried to take a picture of the SN tag but it glared to much to be read.
  8. Lost 706 D

    My neighbor bought this abandoned farm and look what was sitting on it! Oil looks good and Im told it is not tight. Tried to take a picture of the SN tag but it glared to much to be read.
  9. I'm looking to find a way to haul my restored 706G safely, with a lighter weight equipment trailer. My '79 F250 4x4 manual with a DANA 60 rear end and np435 transmission (been in the family and working since '82) will handle it easier with a lighter trailer and a lower center of gravity. Only need to move the tractor 40 miles a few times a year. Moving the rear tires to a width under 84 inches is possible; can anyone give advice on how safe it is to operate the tractor with the rear tires at that width on a slope? Once hauled to the field, wondering if I have to re-widen the width between tires before working it with a disc and cultivator. I'm fairly new to this farming stuff as you may have gathered.
  10. 706 clutch/trans brake

    Hey guys. I bought a 706 with a bad clutch a while ago and have finally had time to get it split and a new clutch installed. I have everything reassembled and went to try moving it for the first time and it still would not go into gear properly you can slip into gear and when it is moving you can push the clutch in all the way and it does not stop it slows down a bit but does not stop. So I looked in the bottom cover and everything is moving as it should. So I figured it had to be the trans brake so I took the cover off with the trans brake and there is about and 1/8th inch of pad left on it is this enough? Also there was a good amount of leather in by the drain plug in the same cover from a seal I am thinking? Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.
  11. 706D project prospect

    Buddy of mine is coming into possession of a number of tractors that have been sitting outside for a decade or more. (long story). Among them is a 706D which I looked at and said Id help him try to rehab it. The engine is free and oil looks good though I expect some things are going to be tight on it. Not bad for rust tho. OK where the HECK do I start with this thing? Im not a diesel mechanic and other than draining all the fluids and starting over not at all sure how to proceed. Any advice appreciated. He also has an old spoke wheeled H on rubber Im interested in for myself. That one I can handle if it isnt tight.
  12. There is a 706 for sale close to me with a bad clutch but new tires he wants $2200 for could probably get it for less was wondering if it would be worth buying and fixing and flipping if a guy would make anything on it? How long would it take to do the clutch and what would it cost? Don't have any pics and am not sure if it's a gas or diesel think it's a diesel but not sure wanted to ask here before I phoned about it. Thanks
  13. If you've been following any of my other threads on my 706 gas to 301 Diesel conversion, then you know what an education it has been; I keep telling myself, nothing ventured, nothing gained . So I cut 20 acres of hay and things were going swimmingly, so I thought I had ironed out the wrinkles and had settled in to reliability - not so fast. The next use, it quit on the road on my way home, like it was starved for fuel. I waited a minute or so and it fired right back up (without glow plugs!) ran for another 3/4 mile and quit again. I found that if I kept it around 1500 rpm it would stay running. Once at the shop I drained the fuel, flushed any sediment, changed fuel filters, refueled, and bled. Started right up and ran for a few min and quit in the same starved fuel manner. The longer I used it the shorter the duration of run time I had, until finally it was only running for a minute or less. Deep in the depths of my brain was some remnants from my fuels class in college about these pumps regarding a deteriorating torsional vibration dampening ring, a glass check valve at the top of the governor housing, and the problems that was caused. When I took this valve out with the engine running only a trickle of fuel would come out, but no chunks of ring or debris. The check valve works and wasn't plugged. I pulled that valve and fitting completely out of the return line and now the engine stays running. This engine, in it's entirety, only has 2200 hours on it, so I am hoping the pump isn't going bad. The 715's were suppose to be 105 hp, BUT this engine isn't any where close, which makes me wonder if this pump is on it's way out. You can buy seal kits on ebay for $30 and I thought about pulling it apart and having a look inside. Between it idling at 1000 rpm, not having any power, and now this check valve issue, it may be time for that. My question is, what is going wrong?