AMoyer8008 Posted September 8 Posted September 8 I have a 1466 i take once a year to a local fair pull and this year it started once it starts pulling real hard it just stops moving. The clutch dont slip when you start out with the sled. Its just when it begins to pull hard it stops. A year prior it acted up and did it once when I pulled the ta. Pressure cold on the ta reads 270 before its warmed up but im looking for other opinions before I tear it down and have the ta replaced. Far as I know its original to the tractor. Quote
snoshoe Posted September 9 Posted September 9 The sprag for sure is letting go. If it does it in DD also then you have another problem as well. A new TA and mcv overhaul should fix. 4 Quote
1967806 Posted September 9 Posted September 9 If you are going to use in in the pulls put 15 series springs in the MCV if you go through it. Hy capacity or AgParts has the spring kits. If you do the TA a TA gasket kit should have all the orings in it for the MCV too. You will need copper washers for the 4 pump mounting bolts and the orings for the oil cooler lines from Case IH. I've never seen a kit yet that has those in it. 1 Quote
1967806 Posted September 9 Posted September 9 Might also want to make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. Seen them adjusted improperly so the free pedal is correct but the link between the booster and the clutch fork arm are tight and holding perssure against the release bearing. 1 Quote
HydroTek Posted September 10 Posted September 10 1 hour ago, 1967806 said: Might also want to make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. Seen them adjusted improperly so the free pedal is correct but the link between the booster and the clutch fork arm are tight and holding perssure against the release bearing. Yeah seen people make the adjustment in the wrong place several times Pedal to cylinder adjustment is set - zero to 1/16" slack Clutch free play is set thru the "window" on the booster cylinder bracket 1 Quote
1967806 Posted Thursday at 02:24 PM Posted Thursday at 02:24 PM 13 hours ago, HydroTek said: Yeah seen people make the adjustment in the wrong place several times Pedal to cylinder adjustment is set - zero to 1/16" slack Clutch free play is set thru the "window" on the booster cylinder bracket Same here, thats why I mentioned it. Deluxe cab tractor have to have the LH battery out to adjust it if I remember right to get wrenches in that window. 1 Quote
mrfred54 Posted Friday at 12:04 PM Posted Friday at 12:04 PM If doing the TA, absolutely replace the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and release bearing and get the flywheel turned to specs. Good time to replace rear crank seal also 2 Quote
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