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Posted

if you are unthreading the detent assembly
you want the nut and tube to come out together 

This assembly should only be tightened to about 30 pounds
I hold the tube in a vice and tighten the nut into the tube with an impact
3 or 4 ugga duggas -- just want the nut tighter than the tube 

the back part of the valve is pretty thin and easily broken if you get all He Man on the nut when installing

Posted
1 hour ago, ComancheStarFarms said:

Snoshoe, I’m willing to do that.  Can you ID what the “spool” is and what/where the “assembly from the rear?” 

The spool you called a piston. The hex nut on the rear, the pipe it screws into, the spool and all detent parts come out the back as an assembly. 

Posted
11 hours ago, snoshoe said:

The spool you called a piston. The hex nut on the rear, the pipe it screws into, the spool and all detent parts come out the back as an assembly. 

I’ll go to work on removing it.  Unless it falls out in a bunch of parts I may not know what it is supposed to look like when functioning properly & therefore won’t know if something is amiss.  Any suggestions as to what to look for?  Thanks - particularly Snoshoe & HydroTek.

Posted

Remove the lever pin from the front of the valve
use an 1 - 1/2" socket on a breaker bar to loosen the detent assembly
do not use an impact here

Use the impact when you have put the assembly in the vice to get the nut out 

Everything should slide out easily
may need to remove any rust, paint from the front of the valve first
pull the valve out "straight" -- you are dealing with precision fit surfaces 

Stand the valve vertically in the vice 
gripping on the flap surfaces where the lever pin goes

When you thread the nut out of the pipe
the end of the detent will be exposed

Remove the slotted screw from the detent
the sleeve will drop
catch the 3 balls with a magnet
and lift the detent housing upward and off

Inside the detent remove the spring, rider , and the 4th ball

what is left is the inner detent housing and centering spring
the inner detent can be un-threaded  from the housing by using a 1/2" fine thread bolt and nut
you thread the bolt in and jamb the nut snug
then turn the bolt out -- this will remove the detent housing
allowing you to replace the detent piston (oring, cup, and pin on later models)

image.png.2dbbf985532ede8d22c57f5209849331.png

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hard a hard time removing spool - heavy hammer on front after removing block connecting linkage.  Nothing looked amiss.  Put back together & inserted it.  Still not working - something not lined up.  Much easier removal the second time.  Put together second time & inserted it.  Worked like new.  Little ball “bearings” fun to keep track of.  For those interested in the “feel” aspect - it now feels like any 56/66 series tractor.  Thanks for the help.

Posted
2 hours ago, ComancheStarFarms said:

Hard a hard time removing spool - heavy hammer on front after removing block connecting linkage

Should never need more that your finger
else take the risk of damaging the lands of the spool and inside the valve body

  • Like 1
Posted

I always push the spool forward a bit and use fine sandpaper to remove any paint or rust on the front end of the spool.   File any raised burrs.   Wipe it off, apply a little oil, and it should slide right out the back.   I agree with above - if it has something on it requiring pounding it thru the housing .... may ruin the bore.....and then you need a whole new unit.   

  • Like 1
Posted

I agree on the heavy hammer.  Didn’t want to and couldn’t believe it would take such a blow to get it out.  After the first inch it popped out & subsequent insertions & removals were smooth & easy.  As I mentioned, after inserting the first time hydraulic activation wasn’t fixed.  Second insertion & it worked fine.  We’ve been using it now for about 10 days and all seems perfect - though I’m standing by for the final results of the heavy banging it took to free it. 
Thanks - Jonathan 

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