HydroTek Posted June 21, 2025 Posted June 21, 2025 if you are unthreading the detent assembly you want the nut and tube to come out together This assembly should only be tightened to about 30 pounds I hold the tube in a vice and tighten the nut into the tube with an impact 3 or 4 ugga duggas -- just want the nut tighter than the tube the back part of the valve is pretty thin and easily broken if you get all He Man on the nut when installing Quote
ComancheStarFarms Posted June 21, 2025 Author Posted June 21, 2025 Snoshoe, I’m willing to do that. Can you ID what the “spool” is and what/where the “assembly from the rear?” Quote
snoshoe Posted June 21, 2025 Posted June 21, 2025 1 hour ago, ComancheStarFarms said: Snoshoe, I’m willing to do that. Can you ID what the “spool” is and what/where the “assembly from the rear?” The spool you called a piston. The hex nut on the rear, the pipe it screws into, the spool and all detent parts come out the back as an assembly. Quote
ComancheStarFarms Posted June 22, 2025 Author Posted June 22, 2025 11 hours ago, snoshoe said: The spool you called a piston. The hex nut on the rear, the pipe it screws into, the spool and all detent parts come out the back as an assembly. I’ll go to work on removing it. Unless it falls out in a bunch of parts I may not know what it is supposed to look like when functioning properly & therefore won’t know if something is amiss. Any suggestions as to what to look for? Thanks - particularly Snoshoe & HydroTek. Quote
HydroTek Posted June 22, 2025 Posted June 22, 2025 Remove the lever pin from the front of the valve use an 1 - 1/2" socket on a breaker bar to loosen the detent assembly do not use an impact here Use the impact when you have put the assembly in the vice to get the nut out Everything should slide out easily may need to remove any rust, paint from the front of the valve first pull the valve out "straight" -- you are dealing with precision fit surfaces Stand the valve vertically in the vice gripping on the flap surfaces where the lever pin goes When you thread the nut out of the pipe the end of the detent will be exposed Remove the slotted screw from the detent the sleeve will drop catch the 3 balls with a magnet and lift the detent housing upward and off Inside the detent remove the spring, rider , and the 4th ball what is left is the inner detent housing and centering spring the inner detent can be un-threaded from the housing by using a 1/2" fine thread bolt and nut you thread the bolt in and jamb the nut snug then turn the bolt out -- this will remove the detent housing allowing you to replace the detent piston (oring, cup, and pin on later models) Quote
ComancheStarFarms Posted August 2, 2025 Author Posted August 2, 2025 Hard a hard time removing spool - heavy hammer on front after removing block connecting linkage. Nothing looked amiss. Put back together & inserted it. Still not working - something not lined up. Much easier removal the second time. Put together second time & inserted it. Worked like new. Little ball “bearings” fun to keep track of. For those interested in the “feel” aspect - it now feels like any 56/66 series tractor. Thanks for the help. Quote
HydroTek Posted August 2, 2025 Posted August 2, 2025 2 hours ago, ComancheStarFarms said: Hard a hard time removing spool - heavy hammer on front after removing block connecting linkage Should never need more that your finger else take the risk of damaging the lands of the spool and inside the valve body 1 Quote
Jeff-C-IL Posted August 4, 2025 Posted August 4, 2025 I always push the spool forward a bit and use fine sandpaper to remove any paint or rust on the front end of the spool. File any raised burrs. Wipe it off, apply a little oil, and it should slide right out the back. I agree with above - if it has something on it requiring pounding it thru the housing .... may ruin the bore.....and then you need a whole new unit. 1 Quote
ComancheStarFarms Posted August 8, 2025 Author Posted August 8, 2025 I agree on the heavy hammer. Didn’t want to and couldn’t believe it would take such a blow to get it out. After the first inch it popped out & subsequent insertions & removals were smooth & easy. As I mentioned, after inserting the first time hydraulic activation wasn’t fixed. Second insertion & it worked fine. We’ve been using it now for about 10 days and all seems perfect - though I’m standing by for the final results of the heavy banging it took to free it. Thanks - Jonathan Quote
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