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Red Tech

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  1. Are you sure that you got the correct o-ring from the dealer? That is not a standard sized o-ring. The new number is 570186, which replaced 237-6020, and some other previous numbers. Check your invoice to see what you purchased.
  2. There really isn’t enough room to neatly install a shutoff valve. I use a steel brake line and have it long enough to come within 1” or less of the inside top of the tank. I posted the procedure on here a couple of years ago.
  3. You may have solved your problem by blowing out that check valve under the tank. At full load, there isn't as much excess fuel being returned to the tank and thus it is not building up backpressure on the pump. At light load, too much fuel is trying to come through a partially plugged check valve, which causes backpressure to build in the pump and then it will run terrible. If it is a defective check valve below the tank, remove it and take out the ball and spring, then install a standpipe onto the fitting to keep fuel from leaking out when splitting the tractor, or for any other reason in the future. I believe a new check valve is over $300 dollars. That pump does not need the check valve for the tractor to run perfectly.
  4. I would guess that the alternator is cocked in the mount.
  5. I cleaned off any bits of screen from the shoulder of the orifice. I reshaped the screen so it again fit on the shoulder. I then took it to a radiator shop to have it brazed / soldered? He did a perfect job! It looked like new.
  6. On the 86 series it will come straight out like Farmall Doctor said. It will decouple from the shaft that the steering wheel is attached to.
  7. Last year while touring in north central Minnesota, I came across this silo. I was impressed by the craftmanship that went into building this silo, and the fact that it looks in such good condition so many years later
  8. Wow! That video made me realize how fortunate I am. There was a large, horizontal head-level compressor in the shop that we bought many years ago. The pressure cut-off was set at 130 psi. The tag on the compressor showed that it was made in 1944. When the compressor was about 45 years old, it developed a pin hole on the bottom and started leaking. Being a resourceful person, I drilled a small hole where it was leaking, threaded it, and installed a small screw with a gasket. It held for several years until I finally replaced the tank about 6 years later when other leaks developed. I just never thought of it as a danger. Duh! Funny thing is, that compressor was regularly inspected by The Dept of Labor and Commerce. Although the screw was quite visible, the inspector apparently never noticed the screw and I never tried to hide it because I thought of it as just a normal repair. As the saying goes " if you are going to do something stupid, you better be lucky".
  9. I measured spacers from an 806. The long ones are 4-5/8" long. The short ones are 1-9/32" long. 1/2" pipe will work fine.
  10. I haven't seen any postings by Pete23 for a year or so. I have always admired his knowledge and I considered it the "final word" on any topic that I was seeking an answer to. Does anybody here know anything about him?
  11. The brakes are disengaged by hydraulic pressure. Spring pressure engages them when the hydraulic pressure to them is shut off. Either you have collapsed brake springs, or you are bleeding hydraulic pressure to the brakes even after you disengage the pto. Try shutting off the tractor and then turn the pto with a wrench to see how much the spring-loaded brakes are holding.
  12. This is exactly the information that I am looking for; thank you SD man. Do you happen to know the part number of it so that I can order it from our local IH dealer, or do you know the Pennzoil number of it?
  13. I assume that you are referring to the shift kit that the High/Low/Reverse shift lever hooks to. Last week I installed the shift kit, the bushing inside the hollow shaft that the shift levers rotate on, and the vertical shaft and neutral shift plate that hooks to the linkage that goes to the range cover. I got all of the parts from A&I and it was a disaster!! The ID of the bushing that goes into the hollow shaft was too small so I had to have it honed. The vertical shaft, and the lower plate that engages into the park lock was mis-timed so I had to cut the top off of the vertical shaft and weld it back on after positioning it correctly so the little adjustable turnbuckle could be hooked up. After I got that all reinstalled for the 2nd time, I found that I could not shift the linkage all of the way into high. Further inspection revealed that the center shift collar that connects to the High/Low/reverse shift lever,AND the shift collar that is used for shifting into reverse were both make incorrectly so I had to do some serious grinding on them to make them work. AND, in addition to all of the above, I had to grind on the casting of the shift console because the arm on the shift collar that is used for reverse was a little out of time so it would hit the casting that holds the right-hand temp/fuel gauge plate. if I could give this junk a negative 5 Stars, I would. The previous kit that I had installed, I had gotten from Hy-Capacity and it fit great — lesson learned. I hope this long text helps someone to avoid all the grief and wasted labor that I incurred.
  14. I went to the Case IH dealer a couple of days ago to pick up a pail of IH Low Ash #30 oil for my 560 gas tractor. I have had this tractor for 25 years and have only used the genuine IH oil in it. I have never had the head off of it since I have owned it, although I only put on about 40 hours a year. I was told that it is no longer available and they don’t know of a comparable alternative which meets the specs of having no more than .5 ash content. I am now very concerned about developing valve troubles if I use any of the higher ash content oils. Have any of you Forum members actually found an alternative that meets the IH low ash specs? Thanks, Red Tech.
  15. It sounds like your spark plugs are dry carbon-fouled, which causes you to have to run a richer mixture (choke out). If they are, install Autolite 388 plugs, gapped at .025. Check your plugs 1st. If it is not this, then follow DT Fans advice
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