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Red Tech

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About Red Tech

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  1. I did not know that. Thank you so much for that information. I guess that you can teach a old dog new tricks!
  2. Are you sure that you have a genuine IH service manual? There should only be the rear spacer. The lock ring goes against the bearing, and then the nut.
  3. LOL. I thought that I was the only one that drew blood changing those buggers!
  4. I’ve always been happy with oem.
  5. Red Tech


    Auto Lite AL388, gapped @ .025 on 4 cylinder tractors. I use AL386 on 6 cylinder tractors.
  6. Pretty simple. I assume that you are talking about the upper seal. Remove the belly pump if so equipped. Remove the clutch joint ring. Note: Those bolts are tapered so after you have removed the nuts, use a heavy hammer and heavy punch to smack them on the side; they will pop loose. Do the forward ones first so the last two are still attached to the cluster so that they will be solid enough to pound against when you remove the last two. Turn the clutch shaft and the cluster joint so that both are parallel to the floor Remove the bolts holding the complete cluster to the rear housing. Tip the cluster out (down) while lifting the clutch shaft up. The complete cluster should tip right out.
  7. Does that really work? It would be great if it does. I have pondered several times about if that would be possible, but I've always thought that the metal seemed too thin to be threaded at that point and then I also thought that the routing of the internal channels would make it impossible. Has anyone on this site actually done it?
  8. You will need another center valve, then cut left seat support like Nate said. The power beyond that you have purchased may be too thick to fit inside the left seat support (I'm not sure). The one that Nate is referring to is thinner and you just cut out the seat support in the extended part of the power beyond plate.
  9. Those diff locks on the older tractors were usually not very efficient at locking up the differential so this surprised me that it would lock the wheels. It's pretty simple so I would just pull the cover off and take a look at it for a potential problem. If it is only the diff lock, you got by lucky; hopefully the reason for the wheels being locked together is not that the differential itself is thrashed.
  10. I doubt that they would shrink in the freezer, although I have never tried it. I just pull them in with a round plate and a redi-bolt.
  11. Up through the 56 Series, they have a quad ring behind the plate and they will come out easy. On the 66 and 86 Series, they are pressed in and you usually have to ruin them to get them out. The replacements are made with a much bigger hole in the center but they still have to be removed to change the seal. I always grind the outer lip down on the new one so it will install freely and then I add the quad ring behind it like the older series.
  12. I have 18.4 x 38 Firestone Radial All-Traction tires on my 1086 with no fluid, but 6 sets of wheel weights. It bounces like crazy when I get the tractor to 20 mph. I always have an Allied #595 loader on the front with nothing hooked to the drawbar. I've always blamed it on the tires because I think the those bars are at a straighter angle. My theory is that when the gaps between the bars are the same on both the left and the right tires, the tractor goes into a terrible bounce. If I turn a corner at an intersection, which causes the synchronization of the tires to change, sometimes the bounce will go almost completely away until I turn another corner. That is what I base my theory on. If it was the loader causing the bounce, it wouldn't get better on occasion. I have tried more pressure and less pressure; it doesn't seem to make a difference. BTW. I have checked my tires for run-out, side-to-side and for out-of-round. They are as close to perfect as I have ever seen. It makes me jealous when I take a customer's 1086 for a ride and it is cushy smooth.
  13. I forgot to mention the rocker arms in my previous post and I did not think of it until mrfred54 mentioned it. Yes, the rocker arm assembly will be toast. As Dirtboyz stated, redo the head because of the lack of oil. I would have absolutely no reservations on letting him put in a used rocker arm assembly. All the tractors that are out there are running used rocker arm assemblies with no problems. These engines lubricate quite well and usually are not known for rocker arm failure unless something like this happens. Keep us posted as to how your mechanic treats you on this. Even the best of mechanics can make a mistake; the difference between mechanics is how they treat you when it happens.
  14. As others have said: The head gasket was put on upside down. Any mechanic can make a mistake. Now you will find out if he will do the right thing and cover 100% of the cost to fix it — an honest mechanic would.
  15. I just remove the pto and the hydraulic filter. Remove the retainer bolt in the rear end and remove that retainer on the pipe in the filter cavity. Push the pipe out, replace the o-ring in the housing and then stick the pipe partially into the hole where you just changed the o-ring. Use a duckbill snap ring pliers to grab the inside of the pipe and pull it through the o-ring that you just changed. Replace the retainer bolt inside the rear end housing. Install a 1 1/16" outside snap ring in place of that expensive retainer that is inside the filter cavity.
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