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Red Tech

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About Red Tech

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  1. Take the spindle off and have a wider keyway cut into it and then have the machine shop broach the steering arm out for the wider key as well. This will fix your problem for another 50 years.
  2. Just have your radiator shop unsolder and switch the neck from the failed pressurized radiator to the non-pressurized radiator. We have this done many times and it works fine. Take the shroud along so that they can put the overflow pipe in the proper position.
  3. X2 !! The iso-mount hangers hold the radiator in place so it should never set on the bolster assembly.
  4. Looking at your post carefully, I'm pretty sure that it is one of those rare invisible models. That model is very hard to find. πŸ˜† Sorry I couldn't resist.
  5. I've run into that problem a few times and each time it was that someone had replaced the original .900 OD washer on the dipstick, with a larger OD washer which fit tighter in the tube. I can't really explain why, but that was the problem. Maybe it caused pressure buildup and then the oil splash from the gears threw oil out as the pressure was released?? When I ground the larger OD washer down to spec, the problem went away.
  6. I have a 10-shank 5500. I'm quite sure that it is considered a 10-foot (1-foot spacing). Your 1066 should easily handle a 12 shank if you have duals so that you don't run out of traction.
  7. Thanks for all for the very insightful replies. I did put the complete valve train kit in the tractor. The kit included springs, valves, guides. I also had the machine shop put in 6 seats. The updated camshaft, along with lifters and pushrods were also put in new. I had a very good machine shop do the work as they have done for me for almost 40 years. I started checking lobe lift and so far so good. I think that I have an idea as to what could have caused this problem, based on some of the information that you have provided. I'll report back after I have the tractor runni
  8. I have worked on the 414 engines in various tractors for 40 years and never had one like this. The customer is the 2nd owner of this 1066 and does a good job with maintenance, although he does use John Deere 15-40 oil in the engine. Every several years he will break a rocker arm or pushrod. Sometimes he will go 7-8 years, the last time, only two years (233 hours). It is not a main tractor anymore, yet the problem persists. When he brought it to our shop in 2018, the camshaft was shot, as were the lifters and one rocker arm and it had several bent pushrods. The engine was complete
  9. Every Cornhusker that I have ever seen has had two cylinders. I am guessing that it is a Speeco. I can't see the lift end balls good enough in the picture, but Speeco had balls that had both category 1 holes and category 2 holes in the end balls.
  10. I really think it is a fuel supply issue. Take the fuel bowl off and make sure that you have TWIN STREAMS of fuel coming out of the fuel bowl upper body Also blow out the hole/holes in the top of the fuel cap.
  11. I just went through that nightmare last year. Very hard to find AND very expensive!
  12. Weld a short length of keystock to a 5/8” nut and then use an air wrench to unscrew the lower coupling; it is normal RH thread. On the top cluster, after you have the clutch coupling and the woodruff key removed, you can press the input shaft out of the housing. You probably will have to remove the seal holder to get the woodruff key out.
  13. I could not figure out a viable way to connect the return line to the top of the fuel tank, nor is it necessary. In looking over my notes, I see that I did not thread the OD of the brake line as I stated in the previous post of mine. This is the way that I did it: I finally ended up drilling the brass fitting with a #25 drill bit to a depth of 9/16" (from the shoulder of the drill bit). I tapped it with a 1/8" pipe tap. I then inserted a #148420 brass fitting (1/8" npt male to tapered male for a ΒΌ" flare tubing like the brake line has). Finally, I added a #161400 female nut to th
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