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Red Tech

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  1. Mathew, I think that you are trolling your own topic. You came to us asking for help. Farmall Doctor took time out of his day to give you some very sound advice, including the specs for the flywheel step. Instead of being appreciative, you went out of your way to be antagonistic. It is like J-Mech reincarnated. Good luck on getting help on your future posts! PS: The way I see it, you have two choices. You can suck it up and apologize to the community and be welcomed back in good standing because this group is very forgiving, or you can double-down and attack me or others -- your choice. I honestly would like to see you continue on this forum because I am sure that you have knowledge which others of us can benefit from, and vice-versa. Have a great day! (I mean it sincerely) Red Tech
  2. Great suggestions about the 3/8" x 3/4" flex socket with extension; this worked great! The only trouble was getting it broke loose because the previous mechanic (me) had tightened it too tight for a 3/8" flex-socket and extension to loosen it. Luckily, I was able to get it broke loose a little bit with a box wrench in tight quarters. Thanks all,
  3. I have a lot of funny looking wrenches that I have heated and bent to serve a specific purpose. I haven't yet figured out how to make one for the following purpose: I am trying to remove the top left 1/2" split bolt from an 86 series tractor without removing the starter. Have any of you figured out a way to remove it without removing the starter? I am just doing a clutch job, so I don't need to remove the starter unless absolutely necessary. Thanks, Red Tech
  4. Are you sure that you got the correct o-ring from the dealer? That is not a standard sized o-ring. The new number is 570186, which replaced 237-6020, and some other previous numbers. Check your invoice to see what you purchased.
  5. There really isn’t enough room to neatly install a shutoff valve. I use a steel brake line and have it long enough to come within 1” or less of the inside top of the tank. I posted the procedure on here a couple of years ago.
  6. You may have solved your problem by blowing out that check valve under the tank. At full load, there isn't as much excess fuel being returned to the tank and thus it is not building up backpressure on the pump. At light load, too much fuel is trying to come through a partially plugged check valve, which causes backpressure to build in the pump and then it will run terrible. If it is a defective check valve below the tank, remove it and take out the ball and spring, then install a standpipe onto the fitting to keep fuel from leaking out when splitting the tractor, or for any other reason in the future. I believe a new check valve is over $300 dollars. That pump does not need the check valve for the tractor to run perfectly.
  7. I would guess that the alternator is cocked in the mount.
  8. I cleaned off any bits of screen from the shoulder of the orifice. I reshaped the screen so it again fit on the shoulder. I then took it to a radiator shop to have it brazed / soldered? He did a perfect job! It looked like new.
  9. On the 86 series it will come straight out like Farmall Doctor said. It will decouple from the shaft that the steering wheel is attached to.
  10. Last year while touring in north central Minnesota, I came across this silo. I was impressed by the craftmanship that went into building this silo, and the fact that it looks in such good condition so many years later
  11. Wow! That video made me realize how fortunate I am. There was a large, horizontal head-level compressor in the shop that we bought many years ago. The pressure cut-off was set at 130 psi. The tag on the compressor showed that it was made in 1944. When the compressor was about 45 years old, it developed a pin hole on the bottom and started leaking. Being a resourceful person, I drilled a small hole where it was leaking, threaded it, and installed a small screw with a gasket. It held for several years until I finally replaced the tank about 6 years later when other leaks developed. I just never thought of it as a danger. Duh! Funny thing is, that compressor was regularly inspected by The Dept of Labor and Commerce. Although the screw was quite visible, the inspector apparently never noticed the screw and I never tried to hide it because I thought of it as just a normal repair. As the saying goes " if you are going to do something stupid, you better be lucky".
  12. I measured spacers from an 806. The long ones are 4-5/8" long. The short ones are 1-9/32" long. 1/2" pipe will work fine.
  13. I haven't seen any postings by Pete23 for a year or so. I have always admired his knowledge and I considered it the "final word" on any topic that I was seeking an answer to. Does anybody here know anything about him?
  14. The brakes are disengaged by hydraulic pressure. Spring pressure engages them when the hydraulic pressure to them is shut off. Either you have collapsed brake springs, or you are bleeding hydraulic pressure to the brakes even after you disengage the pto. Try shutting off the tractor and then turn the pto with a wrench to see how much the spring-loaded brakes are holding.
  15. This is exactly the information that I am looking for; thank you SD man. Do you happen to know the part number of it so that I can order it from our local IH dealer, or do you know the Pennzoil number of it?
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