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Red Tech

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  1. You need a different seal holder which will recess the seal. You also need a thinner spacer to go with the new seal holder. If you don't recess the seal, the adjustment hole of the stem will be in the seal. A 3/8" nut is installed above the thinner spacer so it can lock against the long engagement nut. Use the parts diagram for a 66 series to get the correct part numbers. Red Tech
  2. Good advice!! I just had a mole taken off of my back this past Wednesday. During my annual physical, I asked the doctor to look at my back because I had burned it severely, decades ago and I have a lot of brown spots on my back. He noticed one that was black and looked different from the others. He removed it, sent it in, and it was NOT cancerous. ­čÖĆ I dodged the bullet this time, but I will be more proactive in the future.
  3. Before he does any unnecessary repairs, I would suggest that he checks the tightness of the muffler belt.
  4. When we used to encounter similar problems, we would buy an orifice fitting that had a floating plate in it. The floating plate had the hole in it. During the lift cycle, the plate would lift off of the seat and you would have full-flow. On the drop cycle, the plate would go against the seat and then all oil had to be returned through the orifice hole. Red Tech
  5. I just looked it up. The plug is part # 364880R1. It is pictured with the power steering under the "attachments" section. It is shown by the valve instead of the casting, so it is a little confusing. Google the part number to verify. Only used with factory power steering. Red Tech.
  6. Welcome to the forum! I have encountered that plug on occasion; It definitely has to do with whether or not it has power steering. I thought it was on the ones that had factory power steering, but it has been a long time since I have worked on one, so I am not sure. Red Tech
  7. I have been very pleased with their service and prices. Yesterday I tried for hours to reach them without success; it would initially answer and then just keep ringing and ringing. I called a different location directly and found out that the phone number that is in the catalog was having a lot of technical difficulties.
  8. If there are threads in that hole, there will be a bolt that will thread into it through the outside cover. That bolt will have a special washer on it that has an O-ring fused to the ID of the washer. I don't know the part number of the combination washer/o-ring offhand, but I could look it up if you need it.
  9. I'm always willing to listen to advice, no matter how unusual it may sound. I tried this today on the foggy cover of the right instrument panel on a 1486. It actually worked!! Thank you, Red Tech.
  10. Thanks for your replies. What Torque said makes sense.
  11. I'm stumped! I am installing new brakes into a 1086 and it also has a differential lock. I installed new seal rings for the diff lock piston. How does one bleed the differential lock piston? My oem service manual does not give me that information. There is a set screw on the side of the diff lock piston carrier, but there is no way to access it once the diff lock cover is installed, but the cover has to be installed to pressurize the diff lock piston. Thanks, Red Tech
  12. The oring, number 35, is easily available. The new number is 89626929, which replaces 237-6014. The seal number is 381477R91. Reuse part #31, it is just a spacer.
  13. Love thy neighbor -- but don't get caught.
  14. I intend to put new rod bolts in the D-358 that I am overhauling in an 886. The lower bolt in the picture is the original bolt and the upper bolt in the picture is the replacement. The smooth mid-section of the old bolt serves as a guide for the rod end cap. On the new bolt, this section is ribbed and is too large, which would result in a press-fit into the cap, making removal of the end cap impossible. In addition to that problem, the ribbed section at the top of the new bolt is even bigger. If I attempt to press it into the bolt boss of the rod, I know that the rod will split at the bolt hole. It appears that all suppliers, including Case-IH, buy from the same source, because the pictures all look identical to the ribbed bolts that I purchased. Have any of you recently installed new rod bolts in any German Diesels? If so, where did you get them from? I called ARP and they said that they only service automotive engines. Thanks, Red Tech
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