Jump to content

Red Tech

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

1 Follower

About Red Tech

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

790 profile views
  1. Welcome to the forum! More than likely, the transmission pinion shaft front roller bearing went bad and a roller fell into the transmission and got picked up by the constant mesh gear which broke a tooth out of it. The reason that you don't hear the click in 5th gear is because that is a direct hookup between the input shaft that is in the front cluster assembly, and the transmission pinion shaft that drives the differential. Because of this direct hookup, there is no click because there is no pressure on the countershaft constant mesh gear that has the broken tooth. If you are lucky, the broken tooth could be in the input gear that is in the front cluster, rather than the constant mesh gear because then it would be very easy to repair through the opening after removing the hydraulic pump and pulling the front cluster out the front. On all the other gears, the power is transferred to the lower countershaft and that is why you hear the click in those gears. Edit: I re-read your post and you state that you replaced bearings. Engine or transmission? If transmission, I suspect that there is a cracked tooth in either the constant mesh gear or the cluster input shaft that drives it.
  2. I’ll try again to send the picture.
  3. Posted March 14, 2014 The upper swivel is a part of the hose and this is where it usually leaks. The o-ring is built into the swivel and cannot be replaced. Because the replacement hose is around $300.00, I merely remake them for a fraction of the cost. I have been doing this for about 15 years and the finished product is better than the original. I will try to "cut and paste" my instructions and a picture to this post. I am not quite sure how to do it, but I will try. Here goes: 460-560 Main Hydraulic Hose To fix the main hydraulic hose that come off of the pump flange, cut off the pipe ½" below the old hose on the 560, or 1 5/8" below the old hose on the 460. Obtain a black ¾" - ½" bell reducer. Using the mill, drill the ½" end out with a ¾ or 7/8" drill, depending on the size of the original pipe. Slide this drilled fitting over the original pipe and braze it on. Make a ¾" 2-wire hose, 15 inches long with ¾" male fittings on both ends. Couple together a 848FS-14x12 orb adapter with a 60SG-12x12 ¾"swivel. Install a 237-6014 o-ring on the tapered end and insert into the tractor hydraulic casting. Install a 238-5117 o-ring into the original lower pipe recess and reinstall it onto the hydraulic pump flange. Couple the hose assembly to the previously install ¾" swivel assembly. Note: I paint everything before installation. Ok. Now to try to attach a picture; it is of a 460 that I did a couple of months ago.
  4. Red Tech

    656 Hydralics

    Jerky is usually a mis-matched coupler/hose tip combination. ( a ball on one end and a pointed tip on the other) sounds like you also have a weak pump or a bad relief valve.
  5. The snap ring (#7) keeps it from falling out. Renew the snap ring. I think that there is also a washer behind the snap ring IIRC.
  6. To remove the bull pinion shaft after the brake is off, just use an air hammer with a long punch-style bit to drive the inner bearing off of the bull pinion shaft as you withdraw the shaft. After that you can remove the bearing to inspect it, and the bearing cup. If the bearing cup is bad, then you will have to remove the axle carrier assembly. Jack up the tractor after removing the bull pinion shaft so that you can rotate the bull gear to check the condition of the teeth.
  7. X2. This is a VERY common problem. Look the welds of the two cams over carefully.
  8. I once had a jumper tube that, although it looked the same, was actually shorter. This caused the same problem that 3588pfred experienced. Even though that was over 30 years ago, I still always compare the length of the jumper tubes to each other.
  9. I get them from Del City wire. delcity.net
  10. Put in the updated shifter rail and the new-style retainer clips. IIMC, they are part numbers 148501C1 for each of the 2 clips and 148503C2 for the rail.
  11. The 8-vane is all that I have ever used. You will have no problem, if fact there will be better circulation.
  12. Your're toying with us; right? Have a great day!!
  13. There are definitely adjusters in the brake housing. They are those tubes with 3 snap rings on them. 1st make sure that the small pin that holds the spring in the tube isn’t broken. If it is, make a new pin out of the smooth shank of a drill bit. Next, slide the snap rings to the proper starting position. Sorry, but I can’t remember what that is without looking in the book, but I think it is .750 from the pin end to the nearest snap ring. If someone else doesn’t chime in, I could look it up when I go to the shop tomorrow.
  14. I believe that the press drill that you have is known as a K6. The endwheel version is known as a Model M.
  • Create New...