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Red Tech

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About Red Tech

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  1. I get them from Del City wire. delcity.net
  2. Put in the updated shifter rail and the new-style retainer clips. IIMC, they are part numbers 148501C1 for each of the 2 clips and 148503C2 for the rail.
  3. The 8-vane is all that I have ever used. You will have no problem, if fact there will be better circulation.
  4. Your're toying with us; right? Have a great day!!
  5. There are definitely adjusters in the brake housing. They are those tubes with 3 snap rings on them. 1st make sure that the small pin that holds the spring in the tube isn’t broken. If it is, make a new pin out of the smooth shank of a drill bit. Next, slide the snap rings to the proper starting position. Sorry, but I can’t remember what that is without looking in the book, but I think it is .750 from the pin end to the nearest snap ring. If someone else doesn’t chime in, I could look it up when I go to the shop tomorrow.
  6. I believe that the press drill that you have is known as a K6. The endwheel version is known as a Model M.
  7. Cut your old joint off of the shaft and then go to a parts house and order a complete universal joint assembly for a 7/8” shaft. Order a joint with holes to roll pin it to the existing shafts. I like to use the heavier spiral roll pins, or you can drive a smaller roll pin into the bigger roll pin.
  8. Red Tech

    M governor ?s

    I'm guessing that the tang that comes from the governor crossover tube into the carburetor is worn off.
  9. I did not know that. Thank you so much for that information. I guess that you can teach a old dog new tricks!
  10. Are you sure that you have a genuine IH service manual? There should only be the rear spacer. The lock ring goes against the bearing, and then the nut.
  11. LOL. I thought that I was the only one that drew blood changing those buggers!
  12. I’ve always been happy with oem.
  13. Red Tech

    C248

    Auto Lite AL388, gapped @ .025 on 4 cylinder tractors. I use AL386 on 6 cylinder tractors.
  14. Pretty simple. I assume that you are talking about the upper seal. Remove the belly pump if so equipped. Remove the clutch joint ring. Note: Those bolts are tapered so after you have removed the nuts, use a heavy hammer and heavy punch to smack them on the side; they will pop loose. Do the forward ones first so the last two are still attached to the cluster so that they will be solid enough to pound against when you remove the last two. Turn the clutch shaft and the cluster joint so that both are parallel to the floor Remove the bolts holding the complete cluster to the rear housing. Tip the cluster out (down) while lifting the clutch shaft up. The complete cluster should tip right out.
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