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Red Tech

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  1. Red Tech

    1066 pto

    I would bet that you have a sand hole in the center casting that is allowing the pressure to drop. I realize that you said you have good pressure when the pto is hot, but you are losing pressure at some point which is allowing the clutch pack to slip and burn out. It is rare, but the symptoms were as you described. I encountered the 1st one 40 years ago on a 1066. I never did figure out where the leak was so I replaced the center casting out of sheer desperation. It solved the problem and the pto was problem-free for the many years that the customer owned the tractor. The only other bad casting that I have encountered was about 5 years ago. The owner was from out of my area and had his mechanic overhaul the pto on his 856 twice in a few months. When it failed again, he brought it to me to take a try at fixing it. After I stripped the center casting down, including removing the actuator stem, I made plugs to seal up the large center clutch drum hole and the actuator stem bore holes. I then pressurized the actuator stem bore with shop air through the port the you would normally have your pressure-check gauge attached to. I noticed a teeny bit of air escaping through the side of the actuator stem bore. I drilled and tapped the sand hole and installed a 1/8” pipe plug. The plug was the short style that uses an Allen wrench. The pto has been going strong in these 5 years since. PS. I NEVER reinstall that snap ring that limits the travel of the clutch pack piston. My reasoning is that, as the clutch pack wears thinner, the snap ring prevents the piston from traveling the additional distance needed to keep maximum pressure against the clutch pack.
  2. You can, provided that the gas tractor didn’t have a band-style pto in it. There are different input shafts and driven gears used between the band and the clutch style ptos to provide a different speed of the shaft that connects to the rear pto unit.
  3. Remove the transmission cover under the center section. You will find that the large forward gear is cocked as it tries to slide off of the splines on the lower shaft. Ease the housing back towards the rear end a little to take the pressure off of the gear. Now, use a bar next to the gear to wobble that gear to keep it from cocking as you back up the fork lift. In your case since you are using a forklift to split it, a second person would be handy. We have all encountered this dilemma the 1st time that we split any of those tractors from a 706 to a 1486.
  4. I hook my stream cleaner up to the engine block drain plug and take the radiator cap off and then reverse flush it out the top of the radiator WHILE the engine is running. No soap needed. I actually made an adapter for the radiator neck so I can use a short hose to direct it away from the tractor, although this is not necessary, it keeps the fan from sucking the discharged water into the front of the radiator.
  5. This works EVERY time that I do it. The oil in the transmission does not hinder the heating process. This also works great on those stubborn coolant drain plugs in the block of the 400 series engines.
  6. You can follow this advice on the power steering line off of the pump flange because the relief is in the power steering pump. DO NOT DO THIS ON THE FLANGE THAT THE BIG HOSE GOES ONTO. I did this once and the shutoff valve blew up INSTANTLY! I was lucky that the pieces missed me or I could have been killed or seriously injured. There is no relief for the large pump if you do this.
  7. The springs are only used on the 06 series. Maybe some of the early 56 series, but I’m not sure.
  8. Another thing to consider; is the check valve that goes into the bottom of the fuel tank partially plugged? Over the years, I worked on two German diesels that ran great at high idle, but crappy at low idle. I found that at high idle, the tractor was burning up enough of the fuel pumped to the injectors, but at low idle, because of the need to bypass more of the fuel back to the tank, it was causing back-pressure on the pump or injectors. This would be easy to check. Just remove the excess fuel line connection leading to the tank and divert the excess fuel into a container and see if the tractor runs good then.
  9. Red Tech

    MCV Pump...

    What do you shim up and how and where do you put the "shims"?
  10. I needed a wiper blade assembly for a 1086 and I was disappointed to learn that IH wants $50 for a new one. I did a lot of research and discovered that the Napa 6-2065 will work great, at a fraction of the cost! The only thing that I had to do was slightly widen the saddle which connect the wiper blade assembly to the wiper arm. The IH wiper assembly is 3/16" wide in the area where the saddle mounts to the wiper blade, as compared to 1/4" on the Napa wiper assembly. This was easy to modify. I just pressed of piece 1/4" keystock into the saddle to widen it out to 1/4". To prevent the bolt that attaches the saddle to the wiper arm from spinning inside the now, wider saddle, I got a new 8-32x1/2" Philips screw and ground the head off on two sides until it fit into the wider saddle. Maybe I am late to the party and everyone else already knows this, but I decided to post this to help out anyone that doesn't.
  11. Take the spindle off and have a wider keyway cut into it and then have the machine shop broach the steering arm out for the wider key as well. This will fix your problem for another 50 years.
  12. Just have your radiator shop unsolder and switch the neck from the failed pressurized radiator to the non-pressurized radiator. We have this done many times and it works fine. Take the shroud along so that they can put the overflow pipe in the proper position.
  13. X2 !! The iso-mount hangers hold the radiator in place so it should never set on the bolster assembly.
  14. Looking at your post carefully, I'm pretty sure that it is one of those rare invisible models. That model is very hard to find. ? Sorry I couldn't resist.
  15. I've run into that problem a few times and each time it was that someone had replaced the original .900 OD washer on the dipstick, with a larger OD washer which fit tighter in the tube. I can't really explain why, but that was the problem. Maybe it caused pressure buildup and then the oil splash from the gears threw oil out as the pressure was released?? When I ground the larger OD washer down to spec, the problem went away.
  16. I have a 10-shank 5500. I'm quite sure that it is considered a 10-foot (1-foot spacing). Your 1066 should easily handle a 12 shank if you have duals so that you don't run out of traction.
  17. Thanks for all for the very insightful replies. I did put the complete valve train kit in the tractor. The kit included springs, valves, guides. I also had the machine shop put in 6 seats. The updated camshaft, along with lifters and pushrods were also put in new. I had a very good machine shop do the work as they have done for me for almost 40 years. I started checking lobe lift and so far so good. I think that I have an idea as to what could have caused this problem, based on some of the information that you have provided. I'll report back after I have the tractor running, which may be a little while as I have to order parts and I am getting swamped with a lot of other repairs. Again; thanks for the replies and if any of you think of something else for me to check, please continue to make suggestions. As I stated earlier, this engine DOES NOT have the updated rocker arm towers and the top mounted breather. How important are they? Service manual states that they are not a mandatory change, but are "optional". Red Tech
  18. I have worked on the 414 engines in various tractors for 40 years and never had one like this. The customer is the 2nd owner of this 1066 and does a good job with maintenance, although he does use John Deere 15-40 oil in the engine. Every several years he will break a rocker arm or pushrod. Sometimes he will go 7-8 years, the last time, only two years (233 hours). It is not a main tractor anymore, yet the problem persists. When he brought it to our shop in 2018, the camshaft was shot, as were the lifters and one rocker arm and it had several bent pushrods. The engine was completely rebuilt except for the pistons and sleeves because it didn't use any oil. We install all new valves, guides, 6 valve seats, new oil pump, new camshaft, lifters, pushrods, and cam bearings. Also, new rod and main bearings, along with new rod bolts. All passages were checked for debris and the injection pump timing was set correctly upon installation (and still is correct). Injectors were overhauled. Timing gears were installed correctly, etc, etc. No stone was left unturned and yet 233 hours later, the #1 rocker arm has broke. Note: Whenever a rocker arm or pushrod breaks, it is not necessarily the same one. I haven't measured the lobe lift yet but I suspect there is a problem with the cam also because # 5 rocker arm has over .220 of gap. The camshaft is the updated model which I bought from RF Engines. It has the revised lobe ramp so the valve lash is set at .025 on all rocker arms. This does not have the updated Valve Train Service package (1802464C92) because they are no longer available, although there appears to be an adequate supply of oil under the valve cover. It also does not have the top-mounted breather on the valve cover. The customer is super-nice about all this fuss, but I would like to get it fixed once and for all. ANY help is much appreciated!! Red Tech
  19. Every Cornhusker that I have ever seen has had two cylinders. I am guessing that it is a Speeco. I can't see the lift end balls good enough in the picture, but Speeco had balls that had both category 1 holes and category 2 holes in the end balls.
  20. I really think it is a fuel supply issue. Take the fuel bowl off and make sure that you have TWIN STREAMS of fuel coming out of the fuel bowl upper body Also blow out the hole/holes in the top of the fuel cap.
  21. I just went through that nightmare last year. Very hard to find AND very expensive!
  22. Weld a short length of keystock to a 5/8” nut and then use an air wrench to unscrew the lower coupling; it is normal RH thread. On the top cluster, after you have the clutch coupling and the woodruff key removed, you can press the input shaft out of the housing. You probably will have to remove the seal holder to get the woodruff key out.
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