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Red Tech

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Everything posted by Red Tech

  1. Nebraska1206 is correct; I just installed one last week.
  2. It actually is OEM, part number 385146R2. It was used on the early models. I have seen a few of them on tractors years ago. I think that it was to give additional adjustment so the shift lever can be centered in the shift quadrant.
  3. You need a different seal holder which will recess the seal. You also need a thinner spacer to go with the new seal holder. If you don't recess the seal, the adjustment hole of the stem will be in the seal. A 3/8" nut is installed above the thinner spacer so it can lock against the long engagement nut. Use the parts diagram for a 66 series to get the correct part numbers. Red Tech
  4. Good advice!! I just had a mole taken off of my back this past Wednesday. During my annual physical, I asked the doctor to look at my back because I had burned it severely, decades ago and I have a lot of brown spots on my back. He noticed one that was black and looked different from the others. He removed it, sent it in, and it was NOT cancerous. ­čÖĆ I dodged the bullet this time, but I will be more proactive in the future.
  5. Before he does any unnecessary repairs, I would suggest that he checks the tightness of the muffler belt.
  6. When we used to encounter similar problems, we would buy an orifice fitting that had a floating plate in it. The floating plate had the hole in it. During the lift cycle, the plate would lift off of the seat and you would have full-flow. On the drop cycle, the plate would go against the seat and then all oil had to be returned through the orifice hole. Red Tech
  7. I just looked it up. The plug is part # 364880R1. It is pictured with the power steering under the "attachments" section. It is shown by the valve instead of the casting, so it is a little confusing. Google the part number to verify. Only used with factory power steering. Red Tech.
  8. Welcome to the forum! I have encountered that plug on occasion; It definitely has to do with whether or not it has power steering. I thought it was on the ones that had factory power steering, but it has been a long time since I have worked on one, so I am not sure. Red Tech
  9. I have been very pleased with their service and prices. Yesterday I tried for hours to reach them without success; it would initially answer and then just keep ringing and ringing. I called a different location directly and found out that the phone number that is in the catalog was having a lot of technical difficulties.
  10. If there are threads in that hole, there will be a bolt that will thread into it through the outside cover. That bolt will have a special washer on it that has an O-ring fused to the ID of the washer. I don't know the part number of the combination washer/o-ring offhand, but I could look it up if you need it.
  11. I'm always willing to listen to advice, no matter how unusual it may sound. I tried this today on the foggy cover of the right instrument panel on a 1486. It actually worked!! Thank you, Red Tech.
  12. Thanks for your replies. What Torque said makes sense.
  13. I'm stumped! I am installing new brakes into a 1086 and it also has a differential lock. I installed new seal rings for the diff lock piston. How does one bleed the differential lock piston? My oem service manual does not give me that information. There is a set screw on the side of the diff lock piston carrier, but there is no way to access it once the diff lock cover is installed, but the cover has to be installed to pressurize the diff lock piston. Thanks, Red Tech
  14. The oring, number 35, is easily available. The new number is 89626929, which replaces 237-6014. The seal number is 381477R91. Reuse part #31, it is just a spacer.
  15. Love thy neighbor -- but don't get caught.
  16. I intend to put new rod bolts in the D-358 that I am overhauling in an 886. The lower bolt in the picture is the original bolt and the upper bolt in the picture is the replacement. The smooth mid-section of the old bolt serves as a guide for the rod end cap. On the new bolt, this section is ribbed and is too large, which would result in a press-fit into the cap, making removal of the end cap impossible. In addition to that problem, the ribbed section at the top of the new bolt is even bigger. If I attempt to press it into the bolt boss of the rod, I know that the rod will split at the bolt hole. It appears that all suppliers, including Case-IH, buy from the same source, because the pictures all look identical to the ribbed bolts that I purchased. Have any of you recently installed new rod bolts in any German Diesels? If so, where did you get them from? I called ARP and they said that they only service automotive engines. Thanks, Red Tech
  17. Larger side goes to the top. The rotating side goes against the spacer ring.
  18. Use two short pieces of 1/4" keystock. Cut or file a notch in each. Next take a short length of 1/8" keystock and grind it down on the end to the size of the tach cable. Insert the resized 1/8" keystock into the old drive gear shank to ensure that you don't compress the shank too much. Next, put the two notched 1/4' keystock pieces around the previously crimped area on the shank. Compress the assembly together in a vise. Rotate the shank 90 degrees and compress it again. Press a little at a time and check the tightness on the resized 1/8" keystock. Stop when it gets difficult to pull out. Install a new tach cable to eliminate the worn area in the cable.
  19. If it is just slipping on the tach cable, you can easily re-crimp the shank of the tach drive stem.
  20. Because I am using a new supplier to our business, (Riley's Tractor Parts), and a new brand, (Absolute), I am measuring everything just to make sure that I don't have any problems. I would appreciate if you could give me your opinions on a couple of my measurements. This is in an 886 with a D-358. The bores in the sleeves are all .002-.003 larger than the original bore spec of 3.875 and the maximum out-of-round is .0007. The sleeve standout above the block is .002; the manual calls for .003-.005. The ring gaps on the top two rings are .019, which is within the specification of .014-.022 The ring gap on the oil ring is .018, which is slightly outside the specification of .010-.016. The piston pin diameter is perfect; however, the length of all of the pins is about .015 shorter than the specs so the clearance between the snap ring and the pin is not within the specs of .004-.032. It is anywhere from .003 to .019 past the top spec of .032. All but one of the pins are within .010, with only one being .019 above the top spec. Because the .004-.032 is a rather wide range, I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the additional clearance. As I proceed, I will measure additional areas, but for now, I would appreciate your opinions as to whether these measurements are within acceptable ranges. Thank you, Red Tech
  21. I got the rod bolts through Riley Tractor Parts. I have been very satisfied with their customer service.
  22. Wow: you guys are a wealth of information. FarmerFixEmUp; That is great information on the o-rings. I will print it out and put it into my German Diesel file. Thank you to everyone for your suggestions as to what to measure. I have the service manual for this engine so I will follow the specs. I did buy new rod bolts. They are expensive, but cheaper than a hole in the block. 40 years ago, I would just order a kit from IH and I never had a problem or had to measure every little thing. Quality has changed so I guess that I have to adjust to the new reality. It has been a dozen years since I overhauled a German Diesel, so I may have to tap your collective knowledge as I proceed. Thanks again, Red Tech
  23. I need some advice, please. Because there has been so much trouble with getting quality overhaul kits, I have avoided doing engine overhauls as much as possible. I have an 886 with a D-358 in the shop right now that I have to overhaul. The advice that I see on this forum is: MEASURE EVERYTHING! Aside from the obvious rod and main bearing clearances, what exactly should I be measuring? I had new camshaft bearings put into the block and the very experienced machine shop line-bored them, which I double-checked, and they are perfect. I also had the large end of the rods checked for out-of-round; they are fine. What else should I be measuring? I am installing an Absolute kit from Riley's Tractor Parts. I don't know the origin of the parts, but likely offshore. Also, does anyone know if I should be using the thicker or thinner sleeve o-ring in the block? Thanks, Red Tech
  24. Pretty simple (and cheap) fix. As Snoshoe said, the check valve is not necessary for proper pump operation. Remove the old check valve standpipe from the fitting under the tank and tap the fitting for 1/8" pipe thread. Insert the pictured #148420 fitting. Use a #161400 female nut to attach a steel brake line to it. Cut it so that the brake line is within 1/4" of the inside of the tank. Problem forever solved! Red Tech
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