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Red Tech

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Everything posted by Red Tech

  1. It sounds like your spark plugs are dry carbon-fouled, which causes you to have to run a richer mixture (choke out). If they are, install Autolite 388 plugs, gapped at .025. Check your plugs 1st. If it is not this, then follow DT Fans advice
  2. Go to a salvage yard and get a hydraulic clutch kit from a 66 series; a lot of 1066's had them. Make sure that it has the proper cylinder mounting bracket. I think the one from the red IH cab was different, but I'm not sure.
  3. I just re-bent the tabs in the fuel tank and on the cap to match together. I would have preferred to replace the cap, but the farmer needed the tractor back in a hurry. He had brought the tractor in for several other repairs, but the loose fuel cap was an afterthought.
  4. I had the same problem about 6 months ago on a 504. They are a different cap from what will fit a B through 1466. That 504 also had a vent in the neck of the tank. IIRC, it was a short cap.
  5. Hot terminal on top. Back side of switch should say “BAT”
  6. Like most things that I have learned, I remember them best when I do them wrong the 1st time. Maybe all of you know this, but in case you don't, the best way to remove the range transmission cover on the 706-1206 is with it shifted into high range; any other position will lift the reverse shift shaft out of the reverse shift fork. If that happens, you risk having the small 1/2 moon key fall into the transmission. I work on these so seldom, that it is easy to forget. Red Tech
  7. We put on a few harnesses years ago when they were advertised as a replacement for the Sentry, rather than a “test harness”. No transmission failures so far. My customers still own and regularly use the tractors. One 5088 has had the bypass harness on it since 1997 (24 year) YMMV.
  8. Thank you all for your replies to my question as to if it is still necessary to retorque head gaskets. I had hoped that there would have been improvements in head gaskets in the last 40 years that would have made retorquing unnecessary. Based on your experience, apparently I should still retorque head gaskets. I put a Fel-Pro gasket set in a 706 gas tractor. After running the tractor for a while to warm up the engine, I tried the head bolts that were outside of the valve cover; they did not move. I was thinking that those under the valve cover would be the same, but maybe not. I was trying to avoid the hassle of taking the valve cover off. Because the owner lives 40 miles away, having him bring the tractor back to have the head retorqued after he has put some hours on it, is really not an option, although that would be ideal. I am just finishing doing some other work on the tractor, so I guess that I better warm it up again and pull the valve cover just to be sure. 😞
  9. It has been so long since I have removed the range transmission cover on a 706 that I don't remember if I should have the shift lever in neutral like on the 56-66 series, or if it should be in high, low or reverse. I don't want the reverse shift shaft to lift along with the cover because then I would have to deal with the reverse shift shaft pulling out of the the reverse shift fork. If anyone remembers, I would appreciate the information. Thanks, Red Tech
  10. I have been retorquing head gaskets for 40 years but recently I have begun wondering if this is still necessary. I am working on a 706 with a C-263 engine. I installed a Fel-Pro head gasket set. Are the head gaskets made better than years ago? Do they require retorquing? What do you guys do? Thanks, Red Tech
  11. I use a # A-VLD1413 door handle from A&I. This handle will work if you drill out the mounting holes to ¼" and use ¼ x 20 x ¾ Allen head cap screws.
  12. I would bet that you have a sand hole in the center casting that is allowing the pressure to drop. I realize that you said you have good pressure when the pto is hot, but you are losing pressure at some point which is allowing the clutch pack to slip and burn out. It is rare, but the symptoms were as you described. I encountered the 1st one 40 years ago on a 1066. I never did figure out where the leak was so I replaced the center casting out of sheer desperation. It solved the problem and the pto was problem-free for the many years that the customer owned the tractor. The only other bad casting that I have encountered was about 5 years ago. The owner was from out of my area and had his mechanic overhaul the pto on his 856 twice in a few months. When it failed again, he brought it to me to take a try at fixing it. After I stripped the center casting down, including removing the actuator stem, I made plugs to seal up the large center clutch drum hole and the actuator stem bore holes. I then pressurized the actuator stem bore with shop air through the port the you would normally have your pressure-check gauge attached to. I noticed a teeny bit of air escaping through the side of the actuator stem bore. I drilled and tapped the sand hole and installed a 1/8” pipe plug. The plug was the short style that uses an Allen wrench. The pto has been going strong in these 5 years since. PS. I NEVER reinstall that snap ring that limits the travel of the clutch pack piston. My reasoning is that, as the clutch pack wears thinner, the snap ring prevents the piston from traveling the additional distance needed to keep maximum pressure against the clutch pack.
  13. You can, provided that the gas tractor didn’t have a band-style pto in it. There are different input shafts and driven gears used between the band and the clutch style ptos to provide a different speed of the shaft that connects to the rear pto unit.
  14. Remove the transmission cover under the center section. You will find that the large forward gear is cocked as it tries to slide off of the splines on the lower shaft. Ease the housing back towards the rear end a little to take the pressure off of the gear. Now, use a bar next to the gear to wobble that gear to keep it from cocking as you back up the fork lift. In your case since you are using a forklift to split it, a second person would be handy. We have all encountered this dilemma the 1st time that we split any of those tractors from a 706 to a 1486.
  15. I hook my stream cleaner up to the engine block drain plug and take the radiator cap off and then reverse flush it out the top of the radiator WHILE the engine is running. No soap needed. I actually made an adapter for the radiator neck so I can use a short hose to direct it away from the tractor, although this is not necessary, it keeps the fan from sucking the discharged water into the front of the radiator.
  16. This works EVERY time that I do it. The oil in the transmission does not hinder the heating process. This also works great on those stubborn coolant drain plugs in the block of the 400 series engines.
  17. You can follow this advice on the power steering line off of the pump flange because the relief is in the power steering pump. DO NOT DO THIS ON THE FLANGE THAT THE BIG HOSE GOES ONTO. I did this once and the shutoff valve blew up INSTANTLY! I was lucky that the pieces missed me or I could have been killed or seriously injured. There is no relief for the large pump if you do this.
  18. The springs are only used on the 06 series. Maybe some of the early 56 series, but I’m not sure.
  19. Another thing to consider; is the check valve that goes into the bottom of the fuel tank partially plugged? Over the years, I worked on two German diesels that ran great at high idle, but crappy at low idle. I found that at high idle, the tractor was burning up enough of the fuel pumped to the injectors, but at low idle, because of the need to bypass more of the fuel back to the tank, it was causing back-pressure on the pump or injectors. This would be easy to check. Just remove the excess fuel line connection leading to the tank and divert the excess fuel into a container and see if the tractor runs good then.
  20. What do you shim up and how and where do you put the "shims"?
  21. I needed a wiper blade assembly for a 1086 and I was disappointed to learn that IH wants $50 for a new one. I did a lot of research and discovered that the Napa 6-2065 will work great, at a fraction of the cost! The only thing that I had to do was slightly widen the saddle which connect the wiper blade assembly to the wiper arm. The IH wiper assembly is 3/16" wide in the area where the saddle mounts to the wiper blade, as compared to 1/4" on the Napa wiper assembly. This was easy to modify. I just pressed of piece 1/4" keystock into the saddle to widen it out to 1/4". To prevent the bolt that attaches the saddle to the wiper arm from spinning inside the now, wider saddle, I got a new 8-32x1/2" Philips screw and ground the head off on two sides until it fit into the wider saddle. Maybe I am late to the party and everyone else already knows this, but I decided to post this to help out anyone that doesn't.
  22. Take the spindle off and have a wider keyway cut into it and then have the machine shop broach the steering arm out for the wider key as well. This will fix your problem for another 50 years.
  23. Just have your radiator shop unsolder and switch the neck from the failed pressurized radiator to the non-pressurized radiator. We have this done many times and it works fine. Take the shroud along so that they can put the overflow pipe in the proper position.
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