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About dhutch

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/02/1968

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ariton, AL
  • Interests
    Working on the farm, playing with my big boy toys, being outside and spending time with my family.

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  1. Okay. I knew it was a five something engine. Just wasn't sure. It sounds like it might be a good deal. Not necessarily wanting a bigger Dozer, but they are fun to play with if I don't have to put a bunch of money into it. The price is certainly right. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.
  2. I've stumbled across a TD20C. It's not run in a while, supposedly the turbo was bad, and it was parked and never fixed after the owner passed. Family is wanting it gone. It has the 535?? I believe. Any thoughts on these? Are parts harder to find than say a td15c? I need to go look it over and see what condition the under carriage is in.
  3. Kevin, Look up 604741C93, found that kit on Ebay for $1195. Same one I got has everything but the bearings. I have all the manufactures numbers for the bearings as opposed to finding it by part number and paying a lot more. The seller on ebay is nationwideparts1987. Hope that helps.
  4. Rocko, good to hear from you. Thanks for the info on the sealing rings and bearings. I was wondering the best way to keep the bearings in place when putting the case on. I do have one issue. I need three of the separator plate springs. My book shows an inner and outer spring, but I only have one spring per hole, maybe an update??? I was able to order the inner spring (625821c1), but it’s much smaller than what I have. The other spring in my book is 625206C1. These are items 52 & 53 on the reverse clutch pack and the same position on the fwd. if someone has an updated number for the single spring, it’d be great to know. if you have access to those springs, pm me. More updates to follow.
  5. You may or may not find them through the dealer, but many other places still carry parts, just takes some digging on the internet. Here's a link to one of many sites you can plug your part number into and see who might have the part, might give you some options. https://www.machinerytrader.com/#PartsSearchTag
  6. Quick update on the trans. Finally starting to get it all cleaned up and putting it back together. The sealing rings are in this kit and definitely finicky things to get in without breaking. I'm thinking this is a kit that someone put together from experience and includes more than what the factory originally included. I'll update as I progress.
  7. Pede, I'll try to get a pic or two of the kit laid out this afternoon and post it. I'm guessing that person doesn't have another kit for sale and maybe that's why the link didn't work. Adam, Here's one place I found the disc (part # 702959c1). I've bought lots of other parts from this company and have had good luck with everything. https://highwayandheavyparts.com/i-16554257-702959c1-transmission-disc-metallic.html You can also dig around on here and find the fibers and steels, along with other parts. http://www.steeringclutch.com/TD15BTD15C.htm Good online parts manual http://www.k-part.com/#?k=!0!18!6356!22!32
  8. Ozfarm, Just noticed your post, was in a hurry earlier when I replied. I agree on when they get thin to replace, but I'm still at only 30%-40% worn. If it were more, I would replace them. That's why I've been on the fence over it. Thanks for the input though.
  9. Mike, I found the kit on Ebay, 604741C93 KIT - IH / DRESSER / KOMATSU - LIUGONG - TD15B / TD15C / 175B & 175C. There is also a Tq convertor kit listed on there as well. Mine was all dresser parts and only the seals, gaskets, etc. Any bearings you need, let me know. I have the bearing part number vs. the manufacturer. If you get a bearing from the dealer, it'll make your head hurt where as a normal timken, for example the MU1209 which is used in several places can be found for $30-$40. Hope this helps.
  10. Pede, I was hoping you would weigh in at some point. Thanks for the info. I havent noticed any bluing on the steels, they all look good. I'll look closer at the teeth as I didnt pay much attention to them when pulling it apart. Everything needs a good cleaning now and I'll check it all out really good. Thanks for the tips on the o-ring and sealing rings. I broke down and bought the kit that has all of the soft parts, it should have everything in it.
  11. Dennis, Thanks for the response, that's what I was wondering was how much longer these would last. The teeth look good, just a job to get all the way to them as you mentioned. Any tricks or tips to putting it all back together? I seem to remember someone mentioning being careful with the piston seals when doing them. I'm replacing all bearings since it was run for a while after the pinion bearing came apart; lots of metal particles everywhere. I'm going to rebuild the torque convertor while its out, throw a root rake on it and get after it, hopefully soon.
  12. Thanks for the responses. I've found the disc for around $11 each. Dealer wants $52 each, not doing that. For $11 each, I'm considering it, especially since I plan on keeping the machine for a while. Disc are 30% - 40% worn, so not sure its worth replacing them. Guess thats why I'm on the fence over it. Already putting enough money into the machine to get it going.
  13. Lots of views so far, but no thoughts from anyone??
  14. I've had similar problems with one of my -15C's. It turned out to be the convertor. The bolts were loose that held one of the bearings in, allowing the stator to contact the housing creating metal particles. These were found in the suction strainer, my first clue. It would run about like you mentioned yours is doing, then heat up to the point of being done for the day. Several things I've done to mine, replace the factory temp and pressure gages with good gages that will give an actual indication. Use a good hy-tran spec oil. ANY and ALL old lines, replace. You'll be surprised by how good a line looks on the outside but has collapsed internally. I've seen it several times on heavy equipment and military helicopters. In particular, the drain line coming from the convertor going back to the trans. If its stopped up, it'll cause the convertor housing to "flood" and create more heat. How is the airflow through the radiator and trans cooler? Does your machine have the baffles underneath the radiator? These stop the air from bypassing underneath the radiator. If all of this is good, I would say that your convertor is allowing fluid to bypass (flooding), which creates a lot of heat. From what I know, its from the sealing rings in the convertor being worn out, but could also be worn bearings or if the stator has contacted the housing in the past. If it was cracked, I'm guessing you still have an issue there and may need to replace some of the hard parts. If I remember right, I think the manual states the stator and housing are a matched set. So a parts yard search may be in order. I believe the manual gives a procedure to check how much oil is returning back out of the convertor housing. A certain amount in a given time lets you know if too much oil is bypassing or not. This may be a good starting point. I have the trans apart from one of my -15C's now, its simple, but if it was slipping, you wouldn't go anywhere. I dont think thats your problem. Hope this helps. If you do need to search for parts, this a good place to start https://www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?page=1
  15. I'm in the middle of rebuilding the trans for one of my -15C's. I'm looking for thoughts on replacing the clutch fiber discs since this is so involved. From what I can find, a new disc is .062 thick, my manual says minimum wear is .050. I've measured most of my disc in several places per disc and have an average thickness of .057, about half worn. I'll be using this machine in my part time business and want it right. Should I spend the extra money and replace all 52 disc or let them run? Thanks in advance
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