dhutch

Not sure if this is allowed, but thought I'd try posting here. I've got a cab off of a 175c ready for a new home. Located in southeast Alabama. I can haul it as far north as western North Carolina. Make an offer.

I've always run the TSC tractor trans fluid in my machines. It's listed as "hy trans" compatible. On any of the machines I've owned, 2- td15c's, 3- 175c's, etc, no one ever replaces the suction line from the main frame to the strainer. A good set of crows feet and some Bonney wrenchs, cheap ones at harbor freight, will make the process easier. I rebuilt the torque converter and transmission on the 84 td15c I'm running now. The dash gage on it shows around 250psi when running at normal temp. I just fixed a suction issue on my td8g. The pressure came up a lot even though I have some other issues in the trans itself. It might be worth swapping out the suction lines. I'd also pull the strainer housing and check for cracks in the fitting bosses. Make sure to use a new oring when you put it back together. if memory serves, it's a -236 75a durometer o-ring. You can order a pack of them from Amazon or McMaster Carr.

Ok, well, i was wrong and G-man was right on the clutch pressure. Not sure what I was thinking. My lube pressure is about 7psi, my clutch pressure is 160-170 psi. I'm going to pull the regulator valve and check the springs and do some reading to verify everything before I pull the trans, sigh......

Update on my progress. I pulled both suction lines and the suction strainer housing. The line from the mainframe to the strainer was original and turned out to be disintegrating, and the internal wire was rusted into in a few places, this was probably my biggest issue. After cutting the crimps off, I reused the original fittings, bought some one-inch suction line and T-bolt clamps, and put it back that way. I've had good luck doing this vs expensive crimp fittings. The strainer housing had a bad spot on the strainer base where it had been hit at some time and the o-ring didn't appear to be sealing properly. A little flat file and polishing fixed that area. I have a definite difference in the sound coming from the pump and convertor. The main pressure is 260 at idle but jumps up to 350 at high throttle. The converter pressure is in range and my lube pressure only runs about 5-7 psi. I'm looking at pulling the regulator valve to check the springs and clean it up. G-man I'm used to seeing main pressure on the dash gauge like I have on my 175C's and TD-15C. That's how I have the gauge hooked up now.

I'm hoping to find a leak in the line going from the main frame to the strainer. That line is still original. I know what the pressure should be, just not sure why someone would connect the main pressure gauge to a shift port. Thanks for the responses.

I just bought a td8g, the brakes were worn out. I've replaced the brake and clutch lining, cleaned a lot of debris out of the rear main frame and suction line. I've cleaned the suction filter, new o-ring, replaced the pressure filter, and replaced the trans pressure gauge so I'll know what I've got. Someone has hooked the pressure gauge into the gear port on the manifold. It reads 0 until putting it in gear then it goes to about 150 psi. The torque converter seems to have a rattle to it. I'm thinking it needs a rebuild. The machine seems to be sucking air. It'll pull and push some, but it's weak.Any ideas on some of the weak points in the suction side of the supply system for the trans? Or any ideas on other things I need to check? I do have a set of manuals. Thanks

I have a cab I'm taking off of a 175c that I'll sell. I'm thinking it will work, but not sure. I'm located in southeast Alabama.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/199681607247960/permalink/1108488246367287/

I've used this brand extensively restoring old cars, easy to work, lightweight, not too expensive. But like any filler, less is better. http://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-105-Premium-Lightweight-Filler/dp/B000P6WQB0