Lucas (or other) Stop Leak

[oldtech]

I have an 80s era Hi Ranger/Terex 4E  bucket lift.  It works but has a leak such that if I let it sit for more than a couple weeks the fluid drains out of it.  It appears to be a slow oozing leak in the rotary manifold in the center of the pedestal.  I expect it needs rebuilding but frankly after watching a video on it I think its beyond my ability to get it out and do all that touchy work.

I dont use this thing much anymore so unless Id drain it over a couple months the whole thing regularly drains out.

Its been suggested that I try Lucas Hydraulic Fluid Booster and Stop Leak.  Ill probably give it a shot but Id like to hear what you guys think first.

Also, Im using factory recommended AWG 32.  Will higher viscosity help even a little?  What can I get away with? I never use it in cold weather.

https://www.lucasoil.com/product/hydraulic-oil-booster-stop-leak/

 

[acem]

Stop leak products often have additives that cause the seals to swell which helps them seal better. Brake fluid is a common home remedy stop leak for hydraulic fluids.

Trouble is it effects all the seals, o rings, etc. Eventually the softened things fail due to the softening. Then you have more failures than you started with.

So in the short term they can work. But in the long run they can make things worse.

I bought a combine that the previous owner had put stop leak in. It has been alot of work fixing all the extra leaks he caused by using stop leak instead of fixing the leak.

 

[oldtech]

12 minutes ago, acem said:

Stop leak products often have additives that cause the seals to swell which helps them seal better. Brake fluid is a common home remedy stop leak for hydraulic fluids.

Trouble is it effects all the seals, o rings, etc. Eventually the softened things fail due to the softening. Then you have more failures than you started with.

So in the short term they can work. But in the long run they can make things worse.

I bought a combine that the previous owner had put stop leak in. It has been alot of work fixing all the extra leaks he caused by using stop leak instead of fixing the leak.

 

I can see that yes.  But I really cant use it the way it is and fixing it properly just seems like a bridge too far given all the issues with the truck its on.  I just need it to last a little longer before it hits the scrap heap.  If that gets me there then a cheap fix might be worth it.  Thats my reasoning anyway.  If it does anything at all which Im a little skeptical of.

[acem]

7 minutes ago, oldtech said:

I can see that yes.  But I really cant use it the way it is and fixing it properly just seems like a bridge too far given all the issues with the truck its on.  I just need it to last a little longer before it hits the scrap heap.  If that gets me there then a cheap fix might be worth it.  Thats my reasoning anyway.  If it does anything at all which Im a little skeptical of.

I've seen people use brake fluid it works.

For a while.

[supermechanic]

 

 Three solutions for you.

1. Rotary manifold probably only needs O-rings. Take plenty of pictures as you disassemble; it's not a terribly difficult job. Most long-term effective

2.  Thicker oil may make it last long enough for your intended use.  Cheap short-term fix.

 Does the bucket have complete 360 rotation, with no stops?

3 . If not, jump out the rotary with some longer hoses. (A few of my service cranes have this setup.) Outside-the-box thinking; may be a viable solution.

[oldtech]

25 minutes ago, supermechanic said:

 

 Three solutions for you.

1. Rotary manifold probably only needs O-rings. Take plenty of pictures as you disassemble; it's not a terribly difficult job. Most long-term effective

2.  Thicker oil may make it last long enough for your intended use.  Cheap short-term fix.

 Does the bucket have complete 360 rotation, with no stops?

3 . If not, jump out the rotary with some longer hoses. (A few of my service cranes have this setup.) Outside-the-box thinking; may be a viable solution.

Just not going the repair route.  Its really hard to work in that small space thru the access panel yet.  Its getting cold soon and I have no heated shop.  I can do repairs but this aint one of em.

I was going to go to the same stuff Im using in my 784 which is a J20 46 to 68 vi as opposed to the 32 AWG Ive been using AND use the Stop Leak which they say to put in first.  I had been using a Hy Tran clone like that before.

Yes it does go full 360+  thats the purpose of the "manifold" which is a kind of ring collector on a silo unloader.  Lots of special O rings in there.  It took me a long time to figure out it wasnt a hose fitting.  Its just oozing out the seams in this cylinder-like collector.

[HydroTek]

You only need the rubber seals on the very end for an external leak