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ZG6E

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Everything posted by ZG6E

  1. Irrigation pipe is very thin wall and I wouldn’t advise burying it. Also a good chance it is gated if it’s not transfer pipe.
  2. I never even cracked the manual- my advice is type “free cdl practice tests” into google, take them a half dozen times the day before and go take the test. Most of the questions were verbatim to what I found online in SD anyway. The worst part about the driving test was the alley dock because I had my 5’ hay extension on the rear and it was hard to judge when I was within distance of the cones. I had to use my get out and look.
  3. Best of luck with the new head! I’ve never had a harvest without at least some sort of breakdown. I always just pray for minor ones
  4. I really like the looks of the White Field Boss MFWD tractors. I’ve never so much as sat in one but they sure look sharp.
  5. The problem with the dodges was with the main shaft- not the counter shaft. Having had both transmissions apart I don’t remember either of them having a nut on the counter shaft. As far as my memory serves me the only thing heavier in the dodge trans was the input shaft.
  6. Amsoil makes an oil for it as well. Last time I bought some it was a little bit cheaper than from GM or Mopar.
  7. How many places did you tack the nut? I don’t remember how many miles I put on mine after I tacked it but it was quite a few. I tacked it in 5 or 6 places though figuring if it gave me fits I would get the fully splined shaft from that outfit in Montana.
  8. I don’t think it was all a power issue. I think a lot of it is the damper gm used. I put a 12v in a 98 Chevy and was less than impressed with the power it had. By the time I turned it up enough to be happy with it I couldn’t keep it cool. I sold the whole project and built a 7.4 to put in a similar pickup. It pulls better than that 12v but it does use twice as much fuel.
  9. If you can still get ahold of your old input shaft and it wasn’t damaged it takes about 2 minutes to swap them.
  10. I don’t know about a 1066 Hydro but you can’t beat a 186 on a round baler. My feet never leave the floor. I guess it could use a touch faster ground speed in low. When I’m in lighter hay it isn’t quite fast enough and it doesn’t brake near as well in high. 17gpm pump snaps the door open plenty quick.
  11. Looks to me like whatever literature you posted is referring to an older deere hydraulic system when it is referencing pressure compensated. (30-60 series) On an 88 you would want to use the flow controls to control pump speed- not a restrictor orifice. 88 series definitely use a signal/load sense line.
  12. The 88s are load sensing. IH called it PFC but it is the same thing.
  13. Danny, Please review this schematic and note that the outside lever has a smaller splined hole which in turn drives the inside valve. The way they arranged the linkage on the 88 series reversed lever location from valve location.
  14. The Lever for the motor run valve which has priority is located furthest away from the seat and I don’t think he was talking about the locking pin but about the tab that slides over and forces you to shut the valve off in float rather than centering it. Either way, as others said I have found it works better to run the motor off either the inside lever or middle lever and then run your booms on the priority(black handle) lever. That way you can always lift your boom even if it you lose a little pressure on your sprayer pump.
  15. I should add that the monitor is showing that the knife is being engaged (the knife extend button goes shadowed and shortly after that the retract button goes shadowed. So I do believe it is extending or at least attempting to. I plan to make sure the net pull is within spec with a spring scale but just by me pulling on it it seems close.
  16. I forgot to look for a code when it was happening- the hay was perfect and I just wanted to get it done. Does the monitor store codes? Ive got everything hooked straight to battery with the supplied harness.
  17. I hope I can get some kinks worked out and get this thing straightened out. Also the bolt that holds the hydraulic cylinder to the pickup must have been loose because it fell out so when I went to raise my pickup I couldn’t and just had to let it ride on the casters on the way home.
  18. Well I made a couple hundred bales last night and this morning and I can’t say I’m overly impressed out of the gate. At about bale 100 it stopped wanting to cut the net every bale. It was pretty erratic when it would and wouldn’t cut. It would always cut when I would manually cycle the knife using the monitor. Also had some stems get stuck in the starter roll and hook the net which I halfway expected. I plan to fill the gaps in with jb weld or weld them solid. (Shouldn’t have to fix on a brand new baler).Also had some net wrapped around the nose roll but not a lot, not sure what caused that. The monitor also beeps at me when I first start up for overvoltage. That could be correct though I’m not sure as I haven’t put a volt meter on the tractor battery to see if the alt is overcharging. Gauge looks fine. It does make nice bales though and the pickup is much improved!
  19. I got mine from CFC distributors. They were less than half the cost of shoups and did an awesome job closing the trench in sod which I struggled with last year using smooth discs.
  20. Dry as all get-out here. I’m putting on 2.5” overhead and not a drop of it is running off. I’m hoping to start flood irrigating the alfalfa this week and I’m certain it’s going to be slow going and long sets. I have been awaiting a rain to put my dryland corn in but sooner or later I’ve gotta go and hope for the best.
  21. I have no idea where the price is headed but I can tell you I hate what $8 corn does to the feeder market. I rely more on my calf check than my corn check... if corn could just settle in at $5 I think I would be happy on both sides.
  22. You have to unpin the tongue and lift it up above the stops on any I have been around.
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