Case IH 5130 fuel pressure

[Jmatt18]

After wrapping up hay season my 5130 sat for quite a while before being used again. The tractor started having a very difficult time starting like it wasn't getting fuel. I replaced the fuel filters and the manual fuel lift pump last week (lift pump wasn't building pressure when pumping it). No difference. The new pump doesn't build pressure at all when I pump it. I'm wondering if the fuel lines going into the tank have collapsed. 

Before replacing the pump and filters I could get the tractor to start by revving up the throttle and cranking it for a bit. It would run fine after starting. After I replaced the filters, the lift pump, bled the lines I got the tractor to start and it died on me at idle while I was doing some other things. I had to crack the injector lines to get fuel and get it started again. After that it ran rough like it was surging with air in the lines. The tractor started right back up after I shut it off after using the tractor for half an hour or so. The next day I tried starting it again and nothing. The lift pump handle has no pressure to it. 

Is there a way to know for sure the fuel lines have collapsed before diving into that project? This is an early model 5130. I've read on some other forums that I need to drop the tank and take off the rear wheel but have also read to take off the seat and I can access them there. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the input!

[HydroTek]

Remove the seat and floor pan -- if you have help the assembly can be laid in the rear window -- may need a strap to secure
put some padding over the upholstery to protect  

The lines originally had crimped rubber on the ends
you can use vice grips and "massage" the crimp to loose it
Then use fuel hose and clamps to replace

No need to remove the tank 
You also can run the hose over the tank if there is  a problem with the line that sits between the tank and housing 

[Jmatt18]

There’s four bolts like this underneath the seat. Are they what holds the seat down? Can’t get them to budge at all

[Jmatt18]

I got underneath the seat and it looks like the lines have been replaced before? If I replace this with fuel line where do I tie back into it since it goes to a steel pipe to braided into a banjo fitting at the pump?

 

thanks again for all the help. 

[GaAgTech]

You can use a die grinder with cutoff disc and cut the crimped sleeve on opposite sides. Then spread the pieces apart and they will break at the banjo fitting. Pull the braided line off the fitting. The banjo fitting will be a hose barb that you can clamp a new hose to. 
At least that’s how I do it. 

[HydroTek]

Those "rag" hoses are original -- yeah the suction is likely leaking from old age 

Use vice grips and "massage" the hose crimps
you can then use fuel line on the banjo fitting and hose clamp 

Can also do this on the metal lines that run behind the tank if you want 

Only need todo the suction line -- unless you see fuel leaking from the return 

Those nuts on the bottom of the seat plate are welded -- they do not "remove" 

I leave the seat bolted -- and just remove the plate from the cab -- then lay the whole assembly in the rear window 

While you are in there 
put a return spring on the park brake lever"
this will help "save" the park brake from wearing out
there is a small hole in the brake lever near where the cable attaches 
you will need need to rig up an anchor point for the spring -- be sure it does not rub on anything
Fairly heavy spring is best -- I use a clutch pedal return spring for a 574

[Jmatt18]

Got the new fuel lines ran and air bled out of the system. Tractor is keeping fuel pressure! Thanks for the help.

Have you been able to pull the old fuel lines out or cut them off and leave it? I tried pulling them out but with the steel middle part of the line they’re not pulling out easily. Considering cutting them off and leaving it  

Still need to put the park brake spring on that you mentioned and adjust the cable on the brake. For an anchor point are you putting a bolt in to hold the spring in place? 

[HydroTek]

Those lines are held in place by plastic blocks that "pop" into a channel in the fuel tank -- just ignore the lines if you are not using them 

I still use the metal lines on my personal 5140 -- just removed the factory crimps (vice grips and massage them) and use fuel hose and clamps 
also added an inline filter like the magnums use -- since I had algae problems and was plugging filters a lot -- can clean the inline out 
algae problem is fixed , but the inline filter (screen on the magnums) has stayed in place 

Park brake return spring , I find the hydraulic line bracket forward of the brake lever and attach to that 
usually get a welding rod and bend that around the bracket to make the hook for the spring -- we have some old 5/32 sticks under the welding bench 

That brake cable can bind up in the winter and hold the park brake on a little -- the extra spring keeps the cable pulled out

I also put a "disconnect" on the safety interlock system -- so the tractor will not drive with the brake lever pulled 
this is an added switch to the transmission lever (1066 clutch safety switch) and either cut or a new terminal on the relay in the RH fuse box

I use this "feature" a lot when feeding cattle -- pull the brake at the gate and the tractor stops driving
release the brake -- goto neutral to pick up the interlock again and back into gear to drive thru the gate 

This has saved me the trouble of putting in park brakes  -- especially on those customers that will drive with the brake on 
Much more "important" things todo in the shop than install park brakes -- LoL

[Gearclash]

Here is a picture of those steel lines hiding behind the tank.  From a 5140.