TeachersPet1066

Correct. We would order them from McMaster for the 466 in the pulling engine.

After looking at this again you are correct and I had to remove #31, not #34.

I had to remove #34 for toolbox to work.

Yes and ours has another in front of that

Row crop. So it did not originally have a toolbox. Found one for him on FB marketplace. When mocking it up there is a heat shield that I had to remove in order for it to bolt up on engine / gas tank base. There is still one heat shield left in place. Here is an example from Internet https://www.machinerypete.com/details/40-99-hp/1966/international-harvester/656/21824316

@ChrisNY had a checklist on here at one time but it won’t open when I found the old post. here is another one: 1. Put rotor gearbox in neutral and spin rotor over 360 degrees by hand to check for balance 2. Open both panels on left side of combine behind drive tire to inspect the rasp bars on the rotor, the three concave sections under the front half of the rotor, the three grates toward the back (keystock being preferred in corn). Check the straight bars on the rotor, and the augers in the bed underneath for wear and the top sieve for stress cracks etc 3. Open cleanout door on vertical auger, check for wear. Also inspect gear set at bottom of auger for wear 4. At front of combine open the panel just above the feeder house to access the impeller/elephant ears. If the wear bars are worn into the ears themselves the entire assembly should be replaced with a matched set to maintain balance. Also inspect the vanes in the cone for wear and that they are not set flat 5. In grain tank area, check horizontal auger for wear. Also make sure the 90 degree pivot section of the unloading auger is not broken out at the base where the grease lines discharge. Check the augers in the floor of the grain tank and the floor itself for wearing thin. Inspect sprockets/chain on clean grain elevator drive 6. Open cover to engine compartment and rotor drive, climb into work area and inspect all belts. Carefully inspect all weldments and sheet metal supports at end of rotor. While there and still facing grain tank, pull dipstick located down and to your left which is the rotor drive reservoir. An oil leak here goes into rotor compartment and is not visible 7. Check final drives for "rolling torque". There may be marks on final drive from previous service. Also check axles for cracks etc- especially on 1440s which were known to be more prone to failure (forty years on most probably are good or have been fixed) 8. All the usual things: lights, brakes (a weak spot in 14x0 combines) A/C, oil leaks- one on the PTO housing can be expensive to fix. Pull the outside cover off the right side of cab and inspect wiring, etc for rodent damage (especially if the headliner seems damaged)

Son wanted a toolbox for his 656 gas hydro. Found one for his upcoming birthday and I notice that tractors with the toolbox don’t have a heat shield. Didn’t realize this and see I will have to remove it. I tried attaching pics but cannot.

Saw this today at the Portersville PA steam show.

It made its way here today. This pic probably isn’t as good if I took one from the other field. Cleaning up 2 massive oaks that came down last storm.

So interesting because yes I saw some online anywhere from $50-$75 but 121894C1 was $28.50 from dealership which shocked me.

Your pic reminds me I have a new shut off valve for ours. It was leaking during planting as it would vibrate back and forth and leak. I put some duct tape on it and it stopped vibrating and leaking. Might want to check yours while you have it apart.

Planted on April 23. DKC53-27. We have been fortunate with the early planted corn doing well even with the cold wet weather a week later. The one field that I planted May 29 really showed up with the wet spots.

Dad always likes to have his picture in the corn around the 4th.

Dad driving his 544. Edit: for 1976 200th anniversary parade in Shenango Twp. Lawrence Co PA. Float was also built at farm for church.

Brought home after Christmas. He spent a lot of time scrubbing and cleaning it up. Grandpa enjoyed glass beading for him. Thanks to those that answered some of the questions that were posted. He is taking it to the county fair this summer. Not a total restoration since he wants to use it for hay raking.

Same since we can get Viscosity 35 minutes away. Also we use the IH dealer filters (black).

Some days when the plow comes out but not with 80s diesel fuel prices. We don’t have GPS or any of the fancy gadgets. Newest tractor is the 884 which was purchased in the mid 80s.

Yes - I would guess it was the reason why the shaft froze up and broke in the drive housing.

Rec’d new parts today from Steiner. Fixed issue and tach is responsive to throttle. Glad you asked because I haven’t paid attention to speedo on this project and need to watch it when we get it out now that tach is fixed. Good to know where to get tach repair at just in case.

Ordering both pieces. The shaft is broke off in drive housing and rusted in.

@Missouri Mule found one of your replies to a similar post. I think I found the issue.

Didn’t realize the tach was not working on the 656 gas hydro when we had it disassembled. Cable is free moving. Hooked end up to drill and tach moves. Hooked cable up and with tractor running cable does not work/spin. Cable End is not rounded. What is the procedure to get in and see if drive gear is issue (368245R11). Should the connection be replaced at same time as well (368246r1)? @Eason and @Sledgehammer I saw your replies in 2017 to a post but it was more towards the speedometer.

Thanks again-much appreciated

Look something like this.

I would remove the rear 3rd link cover and look at the condition of the HyTran. Then replace the 2 filters. Ours was clean but I still drained all of the hydraulic oil since I didn’t know how old it was or what brand/type it was. Note: on the cartridge filter be sure to get a new oring. They don’t come with the filter from CNH anymore.