Siefring Red Farmer

I have 4 J&M 250's. I HAD a Kill Bros and I could not get away from that one quickly enough. The Kill Bros never flowed grain as well as the J&M's and the gear under it was complete crapola.

I go out to the woods with two tractors and my wood trailer. My wood trailer is an old manure spreader that the beaters are removed from, the webbing is still functional. Second tractor is a loader tractor. I can park the loader near the log I am cutting and then within one or two steps stack it on the loader. Proceed to dump it into the old spreader. Repeat until full. Once at the wood shed, open the tail gate and turn on the web and all the wood comes right out the back. Grab it and stack what doesn't need split and through to the side what does. If you do it right, you won't have to take more than 3-5 steps with any log. Grab and stack is not as bad as grab, walk, and stack.

I would not advise to run a 1000RPM pump on 540. I can't imagine that you would get the output needed. The oil cooler is pretty simple. I have had an issue where mine didn't work for a while, I think a wire broke or something. It is something else to maintain. In general, the PTO pump system is pretty robust. I have not had any problems with population settings coming loose. You can adjust the angle of the marker disk to leave whatever trench you desire. Serrated disks will work better in notill. The markers are on one-way cylinders and so only gravity/weight makes them go down.

I own a 1200 and have for about 5 years. Mine came with an early version of the AFS monitor, smallish monochrome screen. I forget the name on that one. The point is, that version was prone to failure and you cannot get replacements anymore. I had to update to an AFS 600 monitor, about $3000. No problems since, but I didn't plan on spending that for the monitor. This planter will take more HP than a JD7000. I have a 70 Hp tractor and it has its butt full. The PTO hydraulics take more HP to run than I figured they should. If you no till, figure on 90-100HP especially if you have hills. I have done no till with mine. I have to say that it did a much better job than the JD7000 that it replaced. The row units are the best out there. The depth wheels, offset openers, dedicated closing disk and firming wheel are all tops. I have bent JD row units notill planting on a curve, you won't do that with the CIH units. My seed spacing and depth control/emergence is better than previous as well.

Helena Chemical sells a product called Tapout that will eliminate volunteer corn in Soybeans. It will also smoke any grasses you may have. It's about $10 per acre, which isn't to far off what deep tillage costs.

New Weston, I wonder where that is?

The browser is not working right now. If Mike, the Paper Farmer, is out there, please PM me.

I'm not sure the brand. I need to look and see if there are any serial plates or anything on it.

Does anyone know of a good location that I can download a manual for the M? I know where to get a shop manual, but not owners manuals. Is there a better shop manual than the IT manuals?

That is my place and that is a White in the background. The White is the only non-Farmall/IH that is on the place. I did have to add IH wheel weights to it though so I can say it is at least part IH.

This followed me home last night. An older gentleman just down the road got an ultimatum from his wife that he needed to clean up a bit and decided to sell this off. It is a mid to late '50 model. It starts and run pretty good. It's been converted to 12 volts, power steering, auxiliary hydraulics, duals. Now for the bad, one main rear rim is pretty well shot. The engine runs well but does not seem to rev up as high as it should, I'll have to check that out. The paint is not as red as it used to be. It will require a new seat soon. It will be fun to get her cleaned up and see if I can stretch its legs again.

I have used radishes blended with crimson clover after wheat. It worked well for me. The challenges are getting the cover crop to grow if it is a dry July. No till to seed them and maybe wait for good ground moisture or a rain coming. In my central ohio location, the clover and radishes have plenty of time to grow if they don't get seeded until the 1st week of august. The smaller seeds of the clover and radishes have are not as robust as the larger rye seeds and so I had a year where the cover crop was almost a total loss. The clover will not winter kill but the radishes do. Expect the radishes to stink when they thaw out in the spring. I planted corn into the standing clover and then burned them down when I put on my pre-emergence herbicide. This worked well but you need good row cleaners. Watch so the row cleaners don't wrap up with the green vegetation. You also want the row cleaners to sweep a clean row so the corn has good sunlight to warm the ground and push the new corn up out of the ground.

Jealousy overload here!!!! I went to an auction last summer that had a 3588. It was very well maintained with very good rubber all around. It brought $14K. Yours looks like a nice tractor. Enjoy and find me one now.

Congratulations. She probably wouldn't have done it if you liked another color. She looks like to good of a woman for that!!!!!!

I ran the tractor for about 6 hours yesterday shutting it down and turning it on many times. No problems at this point. I'm going to consider it fixed. Thanks for the replies!!!! Now onto the next one. I had to 'screw driver' start my CIH 885 by short jumping it at the starter last night. I think that one is just a loose wire at the switch. I thought I fixed that one last year. Guess not.