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Tad Wicks

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  1. You are correct about putting ether in the spark plug holes, that area is isolated from the rest of cylinder so nothing should happen unless the starting valves are open. Spinning on 24 volt the fuel at the injector should be be a sizable squirt, it sounds like no fuel. I would start at the tank and go through the bleeding procedure, the rear filter should gravity fill from the tank with the engine not turning then the pump will push it through the front filter and through the IP, can you still start it on gas? it is easier to do when running.? You can give it a whiff of propane or acetylene while it is spinning on diesel to see if you get a reaction, obviously don't use the manifold heater when you do this. I would not use ether. Even if the engine has very low compression it should make some smoke on diesel if it is getting fuel.
  2. Cast can be difficult, I use brass a lot and for exhaust manifolds and such I use bare cast iron flame rod with high temp flux. Square bare cast iron rod is a problem to find right now for some reason and very expensive. 3/16 and 1/4 can be found but I like the 1/8 square rod. You can tig weld small pieces of cast with bare rod but it will turn harder than the hubs of Hades and so to machine it must be annealed and that is easily done by doing the last pass with a torch. Cast is so high in Carbon that it needs to be annealed at a much higher temp, almost melting temp, Cherry red or dull Orange won't get it done.You will get small pinholes in cast when you use the torch so be sure to have the flux on the rod and make it flow out with the flame (they call it whetting out) to prevent pinholes. Preheat is also a factor, although I don't worry about it much when brazing, by the time the metal is ready to braze it will heat everything around it. I have also brazed Cast that cracked or pulled the cast to the point of separation right next to the brass. There are no sure things in Cast welding
  3. A Sterling Coast Guard engine has a lot of similarities.
  4. Harnischfeger of P&H built aluminum block engines for industrial use, I have one of their diesels. Your engine looks older
  5. I agree, heat is your friend. Even if you have to destroy it, it can be replaced or remade, weld a nut on it and use a slide hammer, check to see if there are threads in the retainer's outside 4 holes. you might be able to push it out after turning it a bit, every now and then they do that when there are no dedicated push holes. just about anything beats breaking the track. As long as the nuts will pass through the hole, seems like they would just about have to.
  6. Never been into one, it would appear that the nuts have come off the shaft like you said, I would do what I had to to remove that plate and see if the nuts can pass through the hole left by the bearing and seal retainer, if they do, I see no reason to pull the outside apart. Best of luck
  7. That's the easy way to turn pins and bushings😀
  8. I could have sworn that there were 2 different engines, not that it matters. I ran 3 different 151's still have one of them, one of the three would pull the guts out of the other two and one of those two had a fresh engine. IIRC I did a bit of research and discovered the smaller engine, then again I am probably wrong and full of it😀
  9. That is another great engine, that is what is in my 1256 (what a powerhouse) and of course the D407 in my 856. Did they ever use DT466 maybe in the 15C????
  10. I really didn't have a choice, I had it running and both steering clutches were hung up as well as no brakes, I drove it in sorta and started pulling the deck that was so ate up with what I think was battery acid that I could almost see through it, so I made a new one, steering clutch steels were badly rusted and pitted, so I got new ones. I took the mag off and while checking timing I couldn't feel any compression with my thumb in the spark plug hole so I pulled the head, valves were toast and big ridge in the cylinders, so I pulled the pistons and sleeves, pistons were junk, full of holes from broken rings and sleeves were worn badly, so I got low time pistons, rings and sleeves (THANKS HILLMAN). When I pulled the wrist pins the bushings were shot as well as the wrist pins so I got new ones, rod bearings were worn and although it had good oil pressure when it was running, I got new rod bearings and of course the bend over locks on the rod bolts were all junk so I got new ones of those. Then (not done yet) I was checking backlash on the bevel gear which was excessive so I removed it after fighting the bevel bolts that took a 3 foot snipe to break loose I then checked the pinion bearing which I could shake up and down so I gutted the tranny and the clutch coupler was toast and found out that the bearings are quite pricey along with being able to see a visible wear mark in the pinion gear and somebody had beat the bevel gear carrier bearing housings into place with something that looks like an ax from the marks so they had to be surfaced. When I pulled the steering clutch release fork levers, they were completely eaten up along with the upper bushing retainers, so I had to build up the forks and remachine them and I made new bushing retainers so that I could put in a double lipped seal and made new bushings for the top and bottom of the forks. I have just about lost track and lots more to go. SOOOO here I sit, I have gotten by pretty reasonable so far because of my machining and welding abilities but if I had to buy it all, it would become a parts tractor very suddenly, but there again there aren't many parts that are good other than the tracks and they certainly aren't that great. I'll let you all know as the saga unfolds😀 PS I also had to disassemble the Radiator and weld up the edge of the tanks where the gasket rides, they were all ate up.
  11. TD15 150 and 151 came with two different engines both start on gas. I don't recall exactly but I think there was a 550 something and a 525 something. I believe the 15B had either the DT436 or DT466, I don't remember which but I do remember that the 15B had a planetary rear end and for a farm tractor the rear end was very difficult to service, final drives had to come off and the whole thing was a huge PITA. I knew of only one in this area.
  12. I too am in the middle of an early TD6, at the moment it is gutted from rear to front, the crank and flywheel are the only thing left. I sure hope that yours is in better shape than mine was (beware the free tractor) Best of luck on your restoration, be careful with the sandblasting the grit gets in places you would never expect,
  13. The 141 was not that bad of a tractor, flat deck and power steering made it much better and like all the IH four cylinders they were pretty stingy with fuel. I never liked the transmission here in the hill country or should I say mountain country, always shifting two levers what a PITA. But, then they brought out the TD15, what a fantastic leap forward for IH, still one of my favorite tractors, I consider the 15 to be IH's first tractor in the modern era.
  14. Yes there was a 403 flatlander/hillside and a 503 flatland only, 403 went to 453 which was the same as the 715 or 615, I think the only difference was the engine and 503 went to 915. The first of the 453, 1972 vintage had the D301 from the 403 and was changed to the D360 after 73. They were very underpowered with the D301, the D360 certainly had more power but was also very thirsty, both were great engines but the D360 started instantly and D301 had to be glow plugged no matter what. The 300 and 400 series engines were fantastic engines, smooth as silk and extremely reliable
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