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Duntongw

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    NW PA

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  1. I have not seen any more than normal, all garter snakes, thankfully. Had my fill of rattlers in SO Cal.
  2. Trying to talk nephew into taking 656 with side mount mower. Where can I find this info? Thank you.
  3. I was having a similar situation on my tractor. Turned out to be the intake gasket had lost a chunk out of it, which affected the front two cylinders. I had checked it one time with a propane bottle, but it did not show up. Just happened to see a clean spot and checked it.
  4. Duntongw

    Update stinks

    Worked the first time on this post.
  5. Duntongw

    Update stinks

    FYI, In the last week or so, If I try to reply to a post, when I hit "Submit Reply", it just sets there with "Saving" button slightly lit. I get out, get back in, clear editor and retry. Third time I try it, it will work.
  6. I can remember when the V8 powered tractors come out, but they did not seem to take off very well. Seeing some of the pictures from the RPRU got me wondering about them. Did they produce many of them, and if not, what was there downfall? I know if I had a pile extra money to throw away, I would definitely have one. I see some have the chrome stacks and others have something much more simple. Did they come with the chrome setup or just peoples bling? Front wheel fenders. I had never seen them before I started seeing pictures on here. Some appear to be metal and others plastic. Were these a factory item? I assume it is for mud flinging, but the metal ones look more like a step. Just curious, thanks.
  7. Back in the 80's we had a tornado come thru here. To the side of the path it took, we got the same size and shape hail as the pictures. Some of the locals put them in the freezer for future conversation pieces. Definitely would be happier with the hail than the tornado.
  8. I have not seen a picture of this tractor before, is this production or has it been modified?
  9. It is quite amazing when you think about it. Usually we have one person on the wagon stacking, and if you put in 1000 bales in a day, 30-40 thousand pounds your heaving, plus if you wind up unloading and handling them again, and I'm retired, or at least I thought so.
  10. So there is this 1066 black stripe setting along the road in a place that it should not be. It's been there for a little while, and my nephew finds out who it belongs to, and the story is with it. It turns out, it belongs to a young local, who when you drive past where his equipment sets, there isn't anything that doesn't look like it has literally had the snot beat out of it, new or old. So the story roughly is, he was having problems with the hydraulics and had someone look at it. Put enough hytran in to get it up to where it should be, 5 gallon minimum, and then somehow proceeded to put a rod out thru the side of the block. So there it sets. Having the track record, you have to assume the worst as far as what will need done to it. Nephew figures, maybe get it reasonable enough and fix it up. Gets ahold of the person, and is told that he want's 9 grand for this grenaded project. Considering what you guys say you can buy a good tractor for in your areas, I thought you might find this a good project.😃
  11. Were baling hay today. We use kicker wagons and a thrower, but stack it on the wagons. Calling for 90 today, hope we get to start a little early. Can't really complain to much. last couple of times we baled this year, it was in the 60's with a nice breeze.
  12. Brown and Sharpe made a very good grinder. This is obviously an older unit. With the permanent magnet, there should be no wires for it to the magnet, just flip the handle on the front. I don't know how much you want to run this, but the handle that makes the table go left and right, from the picture appears to be on the low side. Your going to want a rocking left to right motion as you run it. If it is not the right height, it will be very uncomfortable for you to use it, hard on the arm and shoulder. the newer ones, the handle is up in height with the in and out handle. Depending on what you are going to use it for, if your grinding knife blades that's one thing, if you are trying to grind an 8" long piece of steel flat and parallel, that's another story. The table should lift straight up off, and roll on a series of balls that are encaged usually in a plastic retainer. If it has been used a lot and not lubricated well, it will wear into the "V" groove that the balls ride in. As far as the magnet, people have a tendency to want to drag things off of the magnet. It will have a reverse "V" shape wear pattern on it, narrow at the back and wider at the front. This is why you wind up grinding the magnet, to get this hollow out of it. Doing this, heat is your enemy. Rough dress wheel, either use paraffin wax on the wheel, or soak with WD40. Go about .0003 deep across the entire chuck, and then again, etc. until cleaned up. Again, this depends on what you want it for. Around here, I think used ones will be in the $2,500 range, for more newer than yours. If you think the price is high, have the owner fire it up, dress the wheel, and grind something. The last thing you want to do, is get it and have to replace the spindle bearings. I am sure that would not be cheap. If it is in good usable shape, you should be able to grind something with a decent finish and have no ripples in it. If it basically hops across the piece, it has a spindle or table guide issue.
  13. Obviously this is not your first rodeo, and you may take this as a stupid question, but it seems rather strange that the rods are having that much problem and not the mains. It's not a situation where the rod or bearing is riding against the radius on the journal? Other than that, it almost sounds like the babbitt is peeling away from the copper. Can you look at a bearing under a microscope to see what it looks like? I suppose the babbitt thickness buildup on the bearing could very, but pretty slim chance of checking a number of them and finding the good spot all the time. You say they machined the rods. I assume they machined the split and rebored the big end? May be worth putting the caps on the rods and torque them down, then check with a bore gage. I am sure your shop does good work, but, process of elimination.
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