Jtez Posted July 23 Posted July 23 I’m needing to replace the pump on my 1986 case Ih 385. The pumps that I find say they have the “upgraded tapered shaft” and will need additional OE parts. I can’t find what “ additional OE parts” I need. I found a kit that comes with the pump and a gasket kit. I just don’t know if there is additional modifications necessary. I don’t want to get all the way into it, only to have to stop and wait for parts. Any help is greatly appreciated Quote
HydroTek Posted July 23 Posted July 23 84573150 is the pump with the straight shaft is your gear in good shape ? 21 teeth and a spacer or 23 teeth without the spacer you also need the foam oil dam seal that is glued to the pump 69352C1 3M 847 adhesive is used Quote
Jtez Posted July 23 Author Posted July 23 1 hour ago, HydroTek said: I won’t know till I take it out. All the pumps with the tapered shaft say it is an upgraded pump. Is the tapered shaft better? They are much easier to find and are actually cheaper. https://www.jensales.com/products/case-ih-mcv-hydraulic-pump-kit-93835n-kit this is the kit I was thinking of getting. Quote
HydroTek Posted July 24 Posted July 24 Just as well get that pump straight from Hy-Capacity https://www.hy-capacity.com/hydraulic/mcv-pumps/pid4777/mcv-hydraulic-pump/#relatedproducts I dont see the gear offered there yours has the straight gear ? Quote
Jtez Posted July 24 Author Posted July 24 I'm not sure what mine has. I was waiting to tear into it until I got the parts. I tested the pump and relief valve as shown in the service manual and the pump wouldn't put out more than 1,000 psi so I assume it is bad and needs replacing. Just want to make sure I have all the parts as the tractor will be blocking access to my barn while it is down. Thanks for the help. Quote
Jtez Posted July 24 Author Posted July 24 Yes...doesn't come around until at least half thottle. Auxilliaries are weak and very slow also. Quote
Jtez Posted August 15 Author Posted August 15 Replaced the pump… now have plenty of pressure and flow (not verified by flow and press gauges). Everything appears to be working great, but the tractor is always under a strain. The only time it doesn’t strain is when I raise the implement. I’ve cleaned out the pressure relief valve as much as I can. Also had the priority valve out and cleaned it. Any ideas? New pressure relief valve? Quote
HydroTek Posted August 15 Posted August 15 Remote valve not in neutral ? Do you have a loader on this ? possible unloader valve stuck if you dont have problem with remote valve neutral -- or not have a loader -- lemme know Quote
Jtez Posted August 15 Author Posted August 15 Have a loader using two auxiliary valves on the right side. Operating them doesn’t seem to make any changes. At idle, if I cycle the steering left and right all the way, it goes into bypass. If I increase the throttle, goes back to straining the engine. Raising the implement is the only thing that unloads the engine at throttle. Once it gets to to the top of the lift, it goes back to straining the engine. havent checked the unloader. Thats the one under the seat, correct? Quote
HydroTek Posted August 15 Posted August 15 Yup, remove the seat and the valve underneath the unloader is behind the large plug common failure is the oring on the piston -- but have seen metal stuck in the orifice in the piston -- so check that -- rarely the valve seat in the bottom has came loose Quote
Jtez Posted August 19 Author Posted August 19 Would you happen to have any idea where I can get the tool to remove the inner unloading valve? I tried all sorts of different riggings, but everything bends before the valve loosens. Quote
HydroTek Posted August 19 Posted August 19 Drag link socket is the proper tool basically a large flat screw driver on a socket -- they come in different widths Usually no need to remove that part unless you see evidence of damage or the plug is loose -- push on the poppet and if if moves than should be good Usually the problem is the oring is worn flat or the orifice in the piston has junk in it I think the largest drag link socket I have in my box is 1-1/2" -- Snap-on was proud of that one Quote
Jtez Posted August 24 Author Posted August 24 HydroTek, you are awesome! Tractor is acting like a brand new machine! I do now, have a whinning up front at the steering cylinder. It goes away when I turn the wheel. Is that the relief valve for the steering cylinder? REALLY do appreciate your help. Haven't had the tractor working like this in over 5 years! Quote
HydroTek Posted August 25 Posted August 25 Glad it is working Does the engine "free up" when you turn the steering ? -- just considering if the system is on pressure or not -- also operate the 3pt Check the steering lines , and oil cooler lines under the hood -- probably loose in the clamps -- common for those to vibrate Quote
Jtez Posted August 25 Author Posted August 25 HydroTek, you are awesome! Tractor is acting like a brand new machine! I do now, have a whinning up front at the steering cylinder. It goes away when I turn the wheel. Is that the relief valve for the steering cylinder? REALLY do appreciate your help. Haven't had the tractor working like this in over 5 years! Quote
Jtez Posted August 25 Author Posted August 25 Yes, it does "free up" when I turn the steering. I was thinking if I steered it enough, it would go away, like maybe there was air in the line. I've operated the 3 pt. a bit, but not a lot. I'll excercise it a bit and see if that helps. Also...look for loose hoses. Thanks again, sir! Quote
HydroTek Posted August 26 Posted August 26 Run the engine just off idle , and steer Listen closely to the RPM sound of the engine -- the engine should slow slightly as you steer -- this is normal -- until you hit the end -- not normal to labor when not steering Same for the 3pt -- engine should not noticeably change in speed as the arms move without a load Quote
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