Hrusty

Thanks for the info! Had the cover off this afternoon to check the space between the clutch fingers and the throwout bearing. The throwout bearing still had room to move, so I'm hoping things will work out??? I ended up buying a used clutch rod that I can use to get me back down to factory length. I'm hoping this will give me the adjustment I need. I will hold on to the "dealer modified" longer rod in case things don't work out with the OEM. The pivot point doesn't feel too bad, but there is some slop in the pedal. Will look at bushing that soon!

You guys are awesome! Lots of good info here. Thanks everyone! Ok, I'm going to try to shorten the rod back down to its original length and then we'll take it from there. I'll also get a jam nut on there. I didn't notice it was missing until today. That's how it came back from dealership after the new clutch.

Do you think the problem the dealer had with the clutch not disengaging will return if I cut that section out and return the rod to original length? I am not a clutch Guru, so pardon my lack of understanding.

Were you able to shorten those clutch finger bolts through the inspection cover on the bottom of the tractor?

I need a little help! Here's the back story: 2 summers ago our local IH dealer put a new clutch and flywheel in my 656. The tractor gets used very little, primarily for haying 10 acres once a year. Amounts to less than 25 hours a year, so less than 50 hours since the new clutch was installed. As part of the service notes on my invoice the dealer states that after the clutch was installed: "Started tractor and could not get into gear. Found that the clutch will not fully disengage. Checked and found the housing is worn in the transmission and now that there is more material on the clutch and flywheel it has too much play and will not push in far enough. Welded in a piece to extend the clutch rod and now it works" Now to my current issue: When I was haying this summer I noticed that the clutch was slipping...Not what you want to see with a brand new clutch and so few hours. Anyway, I went to adjust the clutch according to the directions in my manual. First step is to set the free pedal on the main clutch. Manual calls for 1-3/4". I had less than an inch. The manual I you need to rotate the clutch operating lever "D" counter clockwise to increase the free pedal. That would mean I need to turn the clevis to shorten the clutch rod. Problem is that there is no adjustment left in the clevis. It is as short as it gets. The manual goes on to say that proper free pedal will provide 1/8" clearance between the clutch release levers and the release bearing. The clearance on my tractor is no where near 1/8", it is maybe the thickness of a piece of paper, not much more. Am I understanding this correctly? It would seem that the only way to get my free pedal back is to remove that section of clutch rod that the dealer added. Any thoughts are appreciated! For some reason I was having troubles getting pics into this post so I added some links to the images from my Google Drive. Hopefully that will let you guys see what I'm talking about. I will try to post pics again later. Pic of Procedure From Owner's Manual Pic of Operating Lever D Pic of My Clutch Rod With No Adjustment Left Pic Closeup of Clevis On My Clutch Rod Once I can get the free pedal set correctly I'll move on and adjust the torque amplifier

Just saw your post from last week. I had the same issue on a 460 we recently bought... PTO would not stop turning. It had the same PTO unit you have in your tractor. As HydroTec stated, if the snapover on the clutch is good you may not have to adjust the clutch. If you do need to adjust the clutch you will have to pull the PTO unit from the tractor. Mine was rusted and bound up inside so I did have to pull the PTO from the tractor, clean everything up, adjust the clutch then put everything back in the tractor. The anti-creep brake adjustment is done in the linkage for the PTO lever (as HydroTek mentioned). Here is the diagram and instructions for adjusting the anti-creep brake on the 460. Diagram and instructions come from the IH Service Manual. On my tractor I also found that the pawl on the PTO lever (shown in the diagram) was rusted in place so it would not snap into its groove in the quadrant. Freed that up with some PB blaster and a few taps from a hammer, adjusted the linkage per the instructions, and now the PTO unit stops turning as it should.

Thanks so much! You guys are awesome!

The left brake locked up on my farmall 460. Planned to clean everything up and put in new disks, balls, and springs. I've done brakes like this on my 656 and Oliver 770. When I pulled the housing I found a spring underneath the actuator where one end was attached to a small post in the housing and the other end wasn't attached to anything. I can't figure out where the free end of the spring is supposed to go. Doesn't seem to be an eyelet, hole, hook, or anything on the actuator. Pics show everything cleaned up and ready to go back on the tractor. Just gotta figure out what to do with the spring before I button it up. Thanks in advance for any help! In the parts diagram I think this is supposed to be spring #37??? If I'm correct the parts book calls it "brake positioning spring"

Thanks for the thoughts everyone... I appreciate the input! I'll see if I can find a Viscocity dealer somewhere in my area... If not, that Delo 600ADF offering looks interesting. I looked into it and I could actually get that delivered to my local Walmart. Ash content of .4%. The old case IH was .5%. Hmmm?

My dad just picked up a farmall 460 with a fully hydraulic loader that has 4 cylinders. Was changing the hydraulic fluid and filter for him. When draining the hydraulic fluid I got almost 20 gallons of very milky fluid, so some of that 20 gallons was water. Any recommendations on how much fluid to use when refilling? The operator's manual calls for 10 gallons of Hy-Tran for the tractor by itself, but not sure about how much extra to add for the loader? Also, the operator's manual I have recommends SAE 10W-30 with a service rating of MS for the engine oil at my temperature range. A lot folks on different websites have said that the 460 should get low-ash oil. The manual I have doesn't specify this. Our IH dealer doesn't even carry low ash oil (I checked). I run Mobil Delvac 1300 15W-40 in my Oliver 770 from the same era and have gotten good service. What do you guys recommend? Thanks for your thoughts!