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BigTom209

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Everything posted by BigTom209

  1. If that sheer pin is failing/catching occasionally, if we crack the filter and oil does pour out that wouldn’t necessarily mean it’s good, right? That pin could still be barely hanging on or like you say just partially catching turning the pump if the pin lets go while say... it’s pulling a high speed very heavy disk at 8MPH+ what would happen? Asking for a friend... ?
  2. I will check that tomorrow we kept tinkering with the clutch today, basically trial and error. They adjusted the housing again, and this time the tractor would shift into gear but if I put it in low gear the tires on flat pavement would very slowly start turning, ok not engaging the clutch enough cause it’s grabbing... so adjusted the housing again and this time it shifted good, didn’t move, and seemed to drive fine but the clutch would start to grab very close to the stop when we let it up so didn’t like that. So adjusted it again and now it shifts like it used to, and the clutch you have to let off a nice amount, it starts to grab and turn the wheels and then you feel that grab when it hits with full pressure. it feels really good and we drove it around the yard and shifted thru the gears, we found a steep hill and came to a stop and put it in gear and it took off uphill no problems at all so clutches seem to be grabbing good. but let me tell you, this little project is sure making us feel stupid. 3 of us working on it, all of which are very mechanically inclined, with what seems like a very simple set of instructions... and yeah just couldn’t get it to work like we thought it should. Working outside during a heat wave isn’t helping either, probably cooked our brains lol im hopeful it’s set good enough and we can get back at it. We are not planning to be easy on it either, tomorrow it’s getting hooked up to the Lemken Rubin high speed disc... it’ll makes that tractor grunt a bit.
  3. We still can’t figure this out... we took the clutch spring off so we could “feel” the clutch pedal better, and just can’t seem to get it right. got the guy in the cab, he’s got the pedal gently to the floor, one guy turning the housing on the cable by the transmission and we never really “feel” the pedal move off the stop really. You can feel something, but nothing really serious. if the guy above lets go of the clutch and the guy underneath turns the housing, you can see the clutch moving in/out depending which way it’s being turned we got it to where we “thought” it was good, I use the term lightly, we kind of played with it a bit and started the tractor, put it in gear and it felt decent you could shift and part way up it would start to pull and have that good “tug” where the clutch fully engages. I drove the tractor home, unhooked the cultivator and then drove down to the shop and did a bit of servicing, then just now started it... shifted into gear and nothing won’t budge. I can shift thru all the gears without the clutch so it’s like the valve is stuck even if I push the clutch in and out??? something just seems off. And before this all started it was pulling a 45’ deep till cultivator with zero issues. im stumped where to even start... not sure if we should keep screwing around with the clutch cable? Or maybe it’s something else?
  4. Thank you so much for this, I'm pretty sure our cable like you say is not adjusted properly. There has been transmission work done on this tractor before so I suspect it'll be off, I'll be sure to set the 1.250 inches of cable movement first and foremost. So the guy inside the cab, they are not trying to feel anything really just push the pedal gently down to the stop bolt and hold it there, then the guy underneath just uses a wrench to turn the housing until the pedal is basically being "forced" to move, basically you've found the max end of the valve your trying to adjust and since it can't move anymore the cable has to move and therefore lifting the clutch pedal, if that makes sense
  5. Hey guys, Weekend is here of course, and with that our local Case dealership is closed. We had to replace the clutch cable on our 9370 with a standard transmission and the service manager said he was going to text us pictures of the procedure to install/adjust the cable properly, and he mustof forgot. So now we have a dead 9370 and seeding left to do, so hoping for some help!! So, I searched the forum.. came across an instruction set for adjusting the master clutch on a 9270 which I would assume would be the same, but we couldn't figure it out. Couldn't seem to get the pedal to touch the travel stop properly, and didn't really understand how much "pressure" we should be pushing with out hand to figure out if the pedal was moving or not? I'm wondering too since we replaced the whole cable, if maybe there is adjustments at the top of the cable on the back of the clutch that we need to have set? I tried to copy what was there in the tractor, so many threads on both the 2 big nuts holding the cable and the number of threads on the clevis at the top... but maybe it wasn't set properly to begin with I'm not sure? So does anyone have any info or instructions we could try tomorrow? This seems like it should be a simple thing to do, but one of those if you don't do it properly I'm guessing we could mess up the clutches in the transmission
  6. Thought I’d share something for future readers, while reading my service manual I came across these schematics for the display and low and behold the one for the early serial number tractor matches what I was measuring on the pins and shows the oil pressure switch. So including that schematic plus the one for the newer display
  7. Looking up that part number it looks like you have the pressure sensor (and makes sense only 1 terminal) not a pressure switch. The switches are used to toggle the display and alarm, the sensor is to get an actual pressure indication
  8. Well, I will try to help in anyway I can! I just ordered a digital service manual today so hopeful to have it right away the pressure transmitter I believe is on the drivers side kindof mid engine, don’t think I have a picture... the oil pressure switches were on the passenger side on the back near the cab, pic attached. Mine I’m not sure if it’s factory but had basically a little T connector, each switch threaded into it, and just a threaded tube into the block. I had to take mine apart to redo the sealant cause it was leaking all over. The one has 2 connector, so 12V on one side and the other goes to the fuse panel/display the other with 3 terminals, the common goes to ground, and the other to the oil pressure alarms.
  9. All good advice Jeff! Previous owners mustof had the same bird issues, I took out the cab filter and there was already a mesh screen installed in front of it! But, the mice of course were on the inside and built a nest inside the damn filter?!? So... will see I cleaned it out really good in there and ran the blower for quite sometime and didn't really smell mouse anymore so hopeful. May need a new cab filter anyway just cause. For now, it always get's parked beside the barn where there is approx 30 always kept slightly hungry mousers... I feel sorry for any mouse or bird nearby I talked with a mechanic who worked lots on these 4386's, he also said always overfill the front diff at least a gallon, should always be on the high side of the site glass. Not sure how much truth there is to it, but he seemed pretty adamant about it. Right now mines usually sitting around 1/2, but I plan to change it and the filters anyway before hitting the field. The rear end also uses Hytran I'd assume? Is there a sight glass on the rear or just a fill port? One of those things I'm sure an operators manual would tell me I have a few small leaks so one of those things I know I better keep an eye on this stuff. I looked over the hoses a bit and they actually looked good, but by the sounds of it I may be smart to take a second, much closer look. Nothing worse then blowing a hose and in a matter of seconds returning hundreds of bucks in oil back from where it came. My coolant tank is no longer an issue! For the record, sun baked 45yr old plastic the slightest bump from your elbow when the wrench slips off the oil pressure sensors your fiddling with will crack the coolant tank! Who knew right? But FYI for anyone, the reservoir tanks from the 90's chev truck in the back pasture will fit at a slight angle and you can hit 2/3 of the bolt holes, and just a self tap bolt for the 3rd. And it has one size larger hose but the one from the truck is long enough to replace the IH one. Now I have more capacity if need be and easier sight/filling! Sticks out like a sore thumb but meh... I've already mentioned function is worth more to me then looks currently
  10. Yeah I'm being hard on the poor thing with my words.. it's character is growing on me! The interior looked pretty rough but after I got the gauge working I switched to getting the blower motor working and cleared out the mouse nest up above the vents and after doing that actually tidied up the cab a bit, so it's looking better each time. Might take some interior detailing products I use on my vehicles to spruce it up even more just for show lol But this is my first tractor, and up until now I've always just borrowed tractors from the families fleet for the little bit of land I farm. So when you go from a STX425 with luxury cab or even one of the well kept 9370's... this faded old 4386 seems pretty "ugly" in comparison. But... it's simplicity I sure like! And the fact I paid less for the whole tractor then the cost to replace even 1 tire on the bigger tractors... ... ... well... I just hope this old girl will keep chugging along for years to come cause I'll be smiling with every working hour I get out of it! And as I've told everyone, once I get a chance to run it and know it's mechanically a sound unit (no reason yet to suspect it won't be, clutch I'm getting nervous about but haven't dug into it yet just doesn't feel quite right to me) I don't mind tossing some cash at it to spiff it up! I can picture how good this tractor would look with a fresh coat of paint and a few interior upgrades
  11. Yes it is working now! And as always it’s good to post what I found and how it was fixed for any future people having issues with the same thing and maybe come across this post. Many thanks to J-mech and Jeff-C-IL for putting up with my constant PMs asking for advice! So, I knew I didn’t have power going to the display from checking the pins, so I took the panel off below the steering wheel and found the auto fuse panel was corroded pretty heavily and looked rough. Since I knew these wires should have +12 on them I grabbed a jumper wire attached to the cab relay and jumpered +12 to each side of the fuses. I believe the 3rd one from the back when I did this lit up the display, there is a label buried under the wires and even says display on it. so I knew this was the fuse needing power, but I had to fiddle to get it connecting because of the corrosion. So I took out all the fuses, cleaned them up carefully on the grinders wire brush, checked continuity on them all with 1 looked good but wasn’t connecting so garbage, took emery cloth and cleaned up the fuse holders, then gently crushed the tabs together so they’d be “tighter” on the fuse popped the fuses back in, all now showed 12V on the far side of the input and to each of the wires. So got good connection to the wires now J-Mech told me the power comes from the oil pressure switch, so I went down and there are (2) switches down there one with just 2 terminals and one with 3 terminals. Looking at the schematics it makes sense, the one with 2 terminals is simply to power the display, the other is used for low oil pressure indication. So I figured out which wire at the switches had 12V constant, then went up to the cab and jumpered the display wire then went back down to figure out which wire now had 12V those 2 wires are the ones that goto the 2 terminal pressure switch. When the engine is running the pressure builds, closes the switch and sends power to the display and hour meter. This makes sense since you’d only want power to the HR meter when the engine is actually running and not off an switched ignition the other wires, as per the schematic one is tied to ground and the others are used for indication so just followed the schematic and got it sorted out. so... I ended up having fuse issues... and wiring issues as someone at some point mismatched the oil switch wires. Once I got all that sorted, gauge works like a charm!!! And for anyone troubleshooting, when it’s working correctly there is power on PIN 12 of the connector, right beside the ground on pin 13. Which again doesn’t seem to jive up with the schematics but meh... it works so I’m not to worried about it
  12. I've called the local dealers that worked on these, and everyone said they long time ago threw out the service manuals for them since they don't work on them anymore. I guess 44yrs old not worth the shelf space to keep the books... Thank you for the schematics though, they are different then the others I have so I just printed off a copy now I'm going to start reviewing over coffee!
  13. It's got character I'd rather just know which pin(s) need power and replace the wires... often that's quicker. But none of the schematics I've seen seem to jive up with what I'm seeing so I'm not sure if someone in the past has been in there tinkering or what's going on. Plan is today to get the seed cleaner fired up and going, then I can tinker/troubleshoot while it's chugging away. One of those nice jobs someone "should" be around to check in on it but can work on something else most the day. Multi tasking! Leading theory is right now the oil pressure switch, one should have power on the pins to power the display and HR meter, guessing/hoping if I trace the wires it's just a bad fuse or disconnected/broken wire
  14. So, story goes I got this tractor accidentally. I was watching an online auction sale for other items when this old girl came up and the bidding stalled and it seemed way to cheap for that much tractor so I bid once to try and help out the seller... and well I won. Had no idea if it even moved under it's own power! But... for the price paid... I could basically part it out or send it to the scrap yard and get more then I paid for it so it was a good deal if it worked or not. She's pretty ugly, but... the tractor does run, starts amazing and seems like it shifts and goes thru the gears just fine, I haven't tried pulling anything yet but hopeful this spring to hook up to a cultivator and see what this tractor can do. I'm not worried about it's looks more that mechanically it's sound so I've been slowly tinkering and learning about it but right now my problem is my RPM/MPH/Hr meter display doesn't work. I did get a wiring schematic from someone on this forum, but it doesn't quite seem to jive up with the display wiring so I'm not sure if I have the wrong schematic or not. I'm wondering if anyone on this forum has more schematics or maybe has tinkered with this display and could give me the pin-out where each signal goes. Right now I only have power on pin 2 of the connector, but on the back of the display itself there is no wiring on pin 2... so I'm missing power from somewhere and I'm not sure where it's supposed to go. I have ground on pin 13 so I'm assuming that's correct, and I spoke with a member on this forum who said power is provided to the display thru the oil pressure switch, but I checked and the switch works but I didn't see power down there so not sure. Anyway, if anyone has experience with this display or troubleshooting it or maybe has schematics I sure would appreciate any help. If I could get this going I'd feel more confident taking it out into the field
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