TMartelle

So I have a Farmall A and I’m replacing a bunch of bearings and the oil slinger gear in the transmission and am having trouble getting the lower gear cluster out. I’ve deducted that I have to pull the axle and remove the bull gear and differential and pull it out the rear like the upper gears. I was wondering what the easiest way to pull the axles was. I’m wondering if I can just remover the end cap and just tap it out without having to remove the rear wheels? Obviously they don’t need to go out all the way just enough to be able to remove the differential but I’m having trouble getting them to come out. Any advice or know-how is appreciated. Thanks

I did drop all the valves and cleaned the head up good with a small wire brush on a drill and that valve wasn’t stuck open at the time unless it was previously and unstuck itself

So here’s what I found. Pulled valve cover off- found a push rod that was just kinda hanging out and wasn’t where it should be. Fixed it but didn’t really seem to make a difference at first but after a couple minutes of forcing it to stay running it smoothed out and ran perfectly. Stoped surging and everything. Was it just cold? Or what

Obviously I’d like to try simpler options before tearing into it to check the timing marks

Crank was removed cam was not. I converted it to battery ignition before the rebuild and it ran fine. Timing marks should be lined up. Carb was not rebuilt. All I really did was drop new pistons and sleeves in it and cleaned up the head with a small wire reel on a drill.

So I rebuilt the engine in my Farmall A but now it’s not running right. It’s surging and backfiring through the intake. Running with some choke helps the surging but still backfires through the intake. I’m thinking valves/timing but what do you guys think?

So I got the international fixed. Something must’ve been stuck because I drove it around in 3rd and pushed the clutch and slammed on the brakes a few times and it started working. Now on to the Farmall

It slid together really nicely so i don’t think the disc is bent. The clutch pedal is adjusted as far as i can go and it’s still not working

Update- Resplit the tractor, disc was bent. Replaced disc and lubricated the pilot bushing and reassembled. Clutch still won’t disengage

Good point😅

What’s the finger spec for an IH pressure plate?

Is there a special way to lubricate the pilot bushing?

Is there any good way to tell if it’s warped?

That’s what I decided needed to happen with the A. I smeared some grease in the pilot bushing but I read somewhere to use motor oil instead. The 240 I did have trouble getting it back together but I do know I put the clutch in right because I marked the old one on which way was out and went off of that. I will admit I used the bolts to pull it together the first time but something wasn’t lined up right and the motor wouldn’t turn over so I took it back apart and messed with it and then it slid together easily but maybe something was messed up from the first attempt.

So I’ve got two tractors a Farmall A and an International 240 utility and I’ve done the clutches on both of them but after doing the them the clutches on both tractors won’t disengage. The Farmall has just enough friction somewhere that if you start it in gear with the clutch pedal down it’ll work but if you start it in neutral it won’t go in any gears. The International won’t clutch won’t work at all no matter what. I’ve messed with the freeplay in the pedals but they don’t make a difference. Any thoughts?