canoosa

It's actually not too difficult finding parts as long as one has the correct IH part number to start with, given that all the "reputable" sites that offer these parts will reference the IH part number along with the aftermarket part #. To answer your question directly, here's link where I purchased the D239 piston rings: https://www.agkits.com/International-Piston-Ring-Set-D155-D179-Diesel-3-Ring-Piston-Keystone-Top.aspx In England, at https://farmingparts.com/en-ca, their aftermarket manufacturer is SPAREX. The above, AGKITS, has a different name brand but same IH parts reference #. Different outfits have different parts available and getting all the requisite parts together is quite doable! Another good outfit is https://www.redrunrite.com/ For the IH D239 Parts, here's a free, 128-pg pdf: https://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/IH_ENGINE_D239_ENGINE_PARTS.pdf VALVE BREATHER VIDS are viewable here: Cold, Start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UcR3GzN0_M Run, Hot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsyDBvVBpTs 'S All, Folks! 🙂 Best Wishes, Health, & Success To All

Will have two short, 20 sec. vids out tomorrow a.m. Today was too long and arduous to get into cyber work by the time it was done, sigh. However, I can tell you right now that there is nothing to see, cold start or hot running, unchanged for either, nothing to show on top. Thanks for being there, mmi ! Cheers...

Thank you! Have never done that either 🙂 But, there's always a first, I guess 🙂

Valve Breather: I amassuming you are referring to the capped, screened, encased, metal filter at the rear end of the Rocker Arm Cover? An intriguing diagnostic!! It so happens I can take a vid of that breather on the tractor this morning when cold, and later when hot...don't know how to post a vid yet, but am most curious as to what could be revealed and what any given symptom would point to???? Definitely a new one on me 🙂 Will attempt to download 2 x 20 sec.??? vids this afternoon...IF, IF possible, can someone provide instructions on how to download a video here?? I see no listed instructions for that type of undertaking on this forum... Cheers

Thank you EVERYONE for the valuable inputs! I agree that there is NO reason - whatsoever - to warrant the rings replacement. I just ASSUMED that this would be a good time since I've seen too many tractor engines wasted by the time they get to 8K hours. However, I'm most likely underestimating my own proper/regular/meticulous maintenance??? Since y'all agree that a well-maintained engine should not require rings (and more) until 10K hours, then I'll gladly stand corrected 🙂 As it is, I've learned a great deal already in prepping for something I've been persuaded is a waste of time at this point...but WILL map out the entire itinerary for when/if the time comes so that this exercise has not been completely in vain! Guess I should have taken myself a little more seriously considering that I drove my first pickup (gas) for 300k miles (two engines), my next (6.4L diesel) is coming up on 17 yr and is very happy with life, as it knows it :-) Gentlemen, it's been a pleasure and I DO thank you for helping with your input based on experience! Sincerely With Best Regards

Thank you for the informative reply!! “What is the reason/conclusion of rings?” Answer: no issues per se, just preventative maintenance, even if it might be a bit early? Thanks for confirming that the job SHOULD “include de -ridge de-glaze, re- hatch plus new break in” – can do, as soon as I get a few more details clear: What are you referring to re “checking additional x,y”?? What GRIT do you advise to use for the Deglazing Brush? As for the new hatch, do I use a hone with what GRIT??? Have a fairly cheap hone on hand (never used) but has 220 grit stones. Unfortunately, am TOTALLY ignorant as to what grit would work best, not to mention what quality of tool I should use…will perhaps check out you tube, much valuable info there :-) I think I understand a portion of your acronym-phrase “kero/mmo/30w”: kero = Kerosene; 30W = 30W oil as a finish-coat; but what is “mmo”??? Will follow advice: Cylinder work first, with crank covered, before inspection, then do the seals ( am intending to use Synthetic Silicone Grease?) and cleaning of block recess. Where to locate TSBs?? Have yet to come across ANY mention of same, quite intriguing! Best Regards

Greetings One and All From The Northern Rockies! I would appreciate any pearls of wisdom some of you more experienced members might wish to toss my way after reading the following. Tractor: CIH 695 with D239. Focus: Piston Ring Replacement with Service Manual (for a 685 and a D239 Engine) on hand. Issues: None per se, just time to replace rings on a very well-maintained, use of synthetic oil for the last 2700 hours, ~ 4500 hours on engine. Regular, thorough cleaning with Liqui Moly every 200hr. oil change. Am NOT expecting anything beside “Normal Wear” in cylinder sleeves. Questions: Since Service Manual shows engine block removal NOT required to change the rings, all the better…but that leaves the question of cylinder sleeves’ “treatment”: Do I deglaze with silicone carbide brush – and with WHAT GRIT??? Manual makes NO MENTION of recreating hash marks for the new rings to seat themselves properly again, so presumably just change rings and reinstall? That much I can do, no anticipated unknowns. Since Oil Pan is removed, and IF you think deglazing SHOULD? be done, then the “grit/detritus” from brushing MUST be contained within the cylinder sleeve with some form of closure at base of sleeve…something I’ve never done before (and am trying to avoid as many unpleasant surprises as possible :-) Should I or shouldn’t I?? I do have the proper o-rings on hand for the cylinder seals and am intent on replacing these as well, but would feel a lot better, methinks, IF cylinder sleeves were pulled out – but with what puller? An OTC 1200 with 1225 Pad sounds great but can only work with entire engine block out, is my guess – and the cost of purchase is prohibitive for a one-off. Of course, there’s the cheapie Vevor puller but it would still require the block’s removal???? Can the O-Rings be replaced WITHOUT pulling the block???? Our ranch is very remote, nothing even remotely populous enough to permit possibility of a “rental” puller :-) Not to mention no local wizard-mechanics to offer sane advice :-) It’s great adventure having more Grizzly and Cougar for neighbors than people – but there are definite drawbacks, too, sigh. Hopefully, one of you has a bit of advice? Cheers!