Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

farmer 43

Dash lights

Recommended Posts

hi evryone.

I'm working on getting the dash light working on my 74 200, particularly the lights in the speedometer. the connections between the holder and the circuit are very touchy, I'm hoping that all I need to do is shine up the contact points a bit and they work better?? I have also ordered all new bulb holders seeing as how the originals are mostly broke. Does any one out there have a picture of the dash with all the lights working, I have no idia what lights indicate what and I think it would be neat to see the lights all on. (I don't have a service manual and I know I gotta get one)

Also for guys who have done dash lights before do you have any advice or things for me to look for?

I did a quick search on google and didn't find much, so I figured I'd ask you guys.

Thanks a bunch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I replace ALL of the bulb holders when I get another IH pickup or Scout. The old ones are so brittle after 40+ years that by the time you replace the bulb and re-install the instrument another one or two of them break.

I don't have a pic of mine all lit up but if you notice a dim area you probably have one of the bulbs or holders out.

Some advice would be to put a thin film of dielectric grease on the contacts for the bulb holders, as well as the pin contacts that the plug goes onto.

However while you have the instruments out I highly recommend fixing a common issue associated with them. The stamped nuts on the back of the gauges can be problematic. I recommend replacing the stamped nuts with brass or copper nuts and washers from your local hardware store. Like shown in this picture. I also put dielectric grease between the nuts and the gauge. This will probably fix any issues you are having with the instruments themselves.

post-86678-0-89441000-1453294738_thumb.j

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made a diagram to the best of my recollection is correct. Hopefully this helps.

post-86678-0-99785600-1453295987_thumb.jpost-86678-0-80288200-1453296005_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great info and diagram Dan , Thanx for posting :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome stuff,Exactly what I was after!!

Thanks Dan!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 72 1110 4x4 that has "park brake on" on one side and "brake failure" on the other.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm glad to help!

Let us know how your project turns out.

The left warning light is the brake warning but I have seen a couple variations for the right. Most 4x4 trucks say "front axle engaged" the other option must have been the parking brake like Farmall57 said.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will defenatly let you guys know how I make out. As for now I'm at a stand still waiting for bulb holders to show up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple pictures of the dash lights in my 71 1210 the red LED under dash lights and the digital tach over take picture somewhat sorry.

post-118734-0-28023700-1453770215_thumb.

post-118734-0-98159400-1453770317_thumb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good! Did you notice any difference in the operation of your gauges after replacing the stamped nuts?

The only thing I don't see illuminated is the knob labels. But it could just be the picture since they don't light up very bright.

post-86678-0-81149600-1453796031_thumb.j

If you want to check them, there is a bulb in a push in socket behind the dash at the end of the plexiglass strip. I think its a #86 or #82 bulb. You may only need to wiggle it as the sheet metal it grounds too tends to rust a bit and it loses ground.

Same applies for the bulb behind the heater/fan controls.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oops! I just re-read that last post! I thought those pictures were of Farmer43's 74 dash. The 71 dash doesn't have illuminated knob labels.

Tru-Built what are your red under dash lights for? Cool factor or do they have some other purpose?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The red lights are just for light on the floor when the lights are on, no special reason.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my bulb holders today and I was able to get them all replaced, but I don't have complete sucsess. The lights do come on but they blink on and off. If I tap the gauges that also causes them to blink on and off. I did use dialetric grease on all the connection, but I was unable to replace the crappy nuts with brass ones. I did however remove them all and put grease on and tightened them back down. I also have a funny eletrical issue going on at the same time. When I first start the truck there is no Eletric power in the cab eg. No heater fan, radio, or gauges. All I have to do is giggle the gear shifter (automatic tranny) and evrything comes on. But dash lights still blink in and out. Not to sure where to start with all this??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Farmer

When I have problems like you are describing, my first reaction is that " I have a poor ground". My easiest method to fix this is to run a long good, clean ground wire and ground the Part, Component, Light, or Motor. Then see if the phantom problem has gone away. If the problem is fixed then I may have a lengthy troubleshooting problem to find out where the weak ground is located.

I've had loose grounds on a dump bed make the front turn signals come on with the brake lights, just an example. Loose or weak grounds make the most impossible things happen.

Hope that this may help.

GT&T

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks GT, i think it's a ground thing to but do the dash lights ground through the panel and into the metal dash via the screws on on my 74? I feel like I might be opening a can of worms and getting in over my head on this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Farmer

I wish I were there to first hand show you how to easily work your way through this. I didn't say that this would be easy, I said, "show you how to easily work your way through this".

If you have a good test light, hook its ground clip to a good ground, and then test it by touching the point to a 12V. live source. Do this often to verify a Good Ground and a Good Test Light. Trust me here, I've been doing this mechanic and electrical work for over 50 years, 5 decades, or half a century, you do not want to be using a lying test light or a lying pressure gauge.

Find where the bulb or component that is in question, is hooked to its ground source. For a light bulb this is usually the metal base, or if it is a sealed beam headlight it will be a separate terminal. Then touch the point of the test light to the base of the bulb, while the circuit is energized. If the circuit has a poor ground, then the test light will glow, because the bulb will seek a ground through the test light. Then follow the path from the bulb base to its holder, if the bulb holder is not "Hot" and the bulb base is "Hot", then there is a poor ground at the bulb base. Keep working your way back from the bulb base to where the test light does not come on. At this area is where the poor ground is located. I have located this down to an area that the lock washer was not grounded.

"You have asked what time it is and I've told you how to build a clock" . I hope this helps you or any others that have a similar problem.

GT&T

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, sounds like you may have a grounding issue. GT&T has some good info there.

You are correct. The individual gauges ground through the screws that hold them to the dash. Sometimes working each mounting screw back and fourth bit can clear that up if the issue is just the one gauge set. But if the mounting screw hole is wallered out that can be easier said than done.

Some other things you may want to check out while you are at it....

You mention that when you bump the auto transmission lever things start working. This makes me suspect another possibility in addition to the grounds. In the 1974/1975 trucks you have the ignition key on the column so the ignition switch is located on the column as well. If the ignition switch is damaged or has heavily corroded contacts power to things can be affected by wiggling things on the column such as shifter or key. Might be worth a check if you have no luck with hunting a bad ground.

There is a ground for the headlights under the hood on the back side of the core support. Its a small eyelet with two wires going into it with a sheet metal screw holding it to the backside of the core support. Trucks from the "rust belt" tend to get corrosion in there and have dim or no headlights.

This doesn't have much to do with you dash lights but just a tip in general for the 69-75 IH pickups while we are talking about grounds.

Good luck!

Keep us posted!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info guys, I will try track down bad ground like GT posted, reading over it carefully a couple times I think I got a good grip on how to do that. And yes Dan my key does have some damage and almost feels sticky when turning it. I bet there is corrosion going on in there. I hoping to spend some time on it this weekend and let you all know what going on. As for the key thing what do I do there? Maybe I should just take things one step at a time but if I'm taking the dash apart again might as well do it all! Also not as important but does anyone know if there anyplace to get a new dash top (the foam part that covers evrything) mine is pretty cracked up and deteriatrd from sun/weather. Also Dan I seen a pic of you 1 ton on another tread and that's a sweet truck you got there!!

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the kind words! I am very happy with the way my one ton turned out.

To answer your question about dash pads... Nobody makes reproduction dash pads or plastic overlays for the IH pickups. I have seen a couple "restored" by an upholstery shop but it was expensive and I was not impressed. But I suppose it would beat no dash pad. Mine is cracked badly in the one ton as well but just on top. I bought a DashMat that fits nicely and covers the damaged area so you can't even tell.

The steering column used in our era of IH pickups and Scouts are made by GM. They have a few specific things that make them for an IH such as length, and mounting stuff, but internally and even a lot externally is just a GM column. Makes it nice for parts and repairs. Most common parts for them are off the shelf at your local parts store.

This picture is of an Oldsmobile column with tilt but yours will be very similar, so you should get the idea.

post-86678-0-07789300-1454103967_thumb.j

Your key rotates the lock & tumbler, which turns the actuator gear along the rack. This pushes or pulls the actuator rod, which moves the electrical part of the ignition switch at the lower end of the column. Just under the dash.

post-86678-0-90064100-1454104177_thumb.j

This is the part I suspect could be damaged, corroded, dirty, or out of adjustment. It is the electrical part.

post-86678-0-98003900-1454104329_thumb.j

This is what the actuator gear and rack look like. They turn the rotary motion of the key into linear motion to push and pull the actuator rod. These do occasionally break, and the grease in here can harden up making it stiff to turn the key. Not a really common problem though. Just FYI.

Probably way too much info but it can't hurt.

Do you have any pictures of your 74 to share?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try working the dimmer for the instrument panel lights I've had problems with my scout before with symptoms like yours. Eason

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It ended up being a beautiful day so I ended up taking the truck into town for a little cruze and to the car wash instead of tearing the dash apart. There will be lots of cold days yet to come for locking myself in my little shop yet I'm sure lol. Here is a couple pics.

post-64516-0-59484700-1454247740_thumb.j

post-64516-0-34505900-1454247762_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a good looking truck you have there.

I can't blame ya, take advantage of the decent weather while you can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Dan, I wish the picture quality was better.

I still haven't gotten back to my dash lights, but I'm having another issue that's got me stumped. When I turn the key to start all I get is a single click/clunk sound from under the hood all the auxiliary power seems to work, but nothing to the starter. Now if I try a few times turning the key on and off something finally contects and the starter begins turning the engine over. Things I have done is changed the alternator, and changed the cylenoide on the start, as well I have cleaned cables on the battery, as well as the connection at the ground. The battery is not brand new, and once the engine is turning over it doesn't seem to be short on any cranking power. I kinda wonder if it's something right at the key???

Any advice on this issue would be great!!

Adam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would start the diagnosis at the starter , Purchase or make a temporary pushbutton starter switch(momentary push button/2 -4ft long leads with alligator clips) and connect one clip

directly to the battery + and the other clip to your starter solenoid "crank" terminal , If the starter works as it should, you have eliminated it as a possible culprit ,

Double check your wiring and connections , A common source of trouble is the bulkhead connectors ,(where the wires are connected with plugs etc at firewall)

check your connectors for signs of melting(heat) and corrosion . You mentioned previously a possible issue with the ignition switch ?? Binderdan responded on previous page.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Farmer

Like Kevin said, I'd leave the push button starter connected and when it "acts up" then you can just push the starter button and see if that clears up the problem.

With multiple problems like you have I am inclined to believe it is an ignition switch problem, or an intermittent poor ground connection.

GT&T

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...